E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

[Mihei777]

Hi. This for your info. If you use hard polychain belt which can easier slip over the tooth than optibelt rubber, there can be too low tension in belt. In my case belt started jumping over teeth sometimes. So i made old spring little bit more pretensioned by moving fixing point further.
I dont know how long this old spring will keep hardness but atleast it works now.

 

[TorEddy]

Are Polychain and Carbon volt belts from gates the same belt or do they just look similar?

The tooth slip you experienced, was it in front or rear?

I ordered my belt drive in march this year, and in april i received this email:
Potential issue with the 118T belt sproket - new part sent out

I have not experienced any slipping yet with the new sprocket. (i never tried the old one)

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Well I definitely had issues with the carbon belt slipping on my 100T rear sprocket (15T front), but given it is a longer belt than the rubber one's that is expected.

Regarding the different teeth profile, I would think that the plastic rear sprocket would just deform to match and this wouldn't be an issue. In my case it was the front slipping not the rear, but it was a lack of tension for me.

This wouldn't be an issue if we could just get a shorter carbon belt.

Cheers

 

[Mihei777]

My belt is polychain volt carbon and lenght 1760 so i use bigger tensioner pulley. Slipping was on the rear. When slipping was there, i tried optibelt hp that time nd no slip. So conclusion is that tension must be higher when polybelt

 

[Joe]

Hi CD
100Tooth was the chain drive. The old belt drive is 115 and new belt drive is 118. 14T front, now 15T with your pulley wheel at the front.
The belt length changed as well. So Either you buy a new rear sprocket or get a shorter poly belt. 3Teeth is a lot of slack.
I’m still using the old set up. HL belt. Now at 620kms.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Hi CD
100Tooth was the chain drive. The old belt drive is 115 and new belt drive is 118. 14T front, now 15T with your pulley wheel at the front.
The belt length changed as well. So Either you buy a new rear sprocket or get a shorter poly belt. 3Teeth is a lot of slack.
I’m still using the old set up. HL belt. Now at 620kms.

Thanks, yeah I keep forgetting and getting mixed up :lol:

I'm back to running the old setup, but with the HP belt (I think)...will see how it goes. 620kms sounds promising. If you make it to 1000km that's good.

Cheers

 

[jimmywazer]

Thanks for all the replies, thinking about a Surron now just bcs it's so cheap...

My LMX64 still overheats to about 100°C even with the 40mm Motor (with max. 2000w/40A Batt,160A Phase). I have already applied thermal paste between Motor and Frame. It's about 25°C here in the alps. Any recommendations for cooling down my Motor?
Happens on almost every steep uphill...

 

[TorEddy]

Thanks for all the replies, thinking about a Surron now just bcs it's so cheap...

My LMX64 still overheats to about 100°C even with the 40mm Motor (with max. 2000w/40A Batt,160A Phase). I have already applied thermal paste between Motor and Frame. It's about 25°C here in the alps. Any recommendations for cooling down my Motor?
Happens on almost every steep uphill...

Only time my LMX64 gets hot is when i ride slow and steep. It's important to keep the revs up, or it will overheat. You should possibly be geared lower, but that's not easy on a lmx64 either with belt or chain..

 

[TorEddy]

My belt is polychain volt carbon and lenght 1760 so i use bigger tensioner pulley. Slipping was on the rear. When slipping was there, i tried optibelt hp that time nd no slip. So conclusion is that tension must be higher when polybelt

Sounds almost unbelievable that the rear can slip with approx. 80 theet's engaged.. The belt must definitely have been way to loose.

 

[jimmywazer]

Thanks for all the replies, thinking about a Surron now just bcs it's so cheap...

My LMX64 still overheats to about 100°C even with the 40mm Motor (with max. 2000w/40A Batt,160A Phase). I have already applied thermal paste between Motor and Frame. It's about 25°C here in the alps. Any recommendations for cooling down my Motor?
Happens on almost every steep uphill...

Only time my LMX64 gets hot is when i ride slow and steep. It's important to keep the revs up, or it will overheat. You should possibly be geared lower, but that's not easy on a lmx64 either with belt or chain..

Yes on steep climbs (I live in the mountains so it's pretty steep everywhere) what would you consider a healthy/normal temp.? I get like 65°C on average.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

100C ain't so bad...the other day bashing through the bush with Brian up a steep "un-ridable" hill I hit 150C at one point. I only have the 30mm motor, and am thinking about the 40mm one, but my cooling solution does seem to work ok.
I posted more about it here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=100198&start=1025#p1614721

To summarise, I installed some fans behind the motor to move more air around and underneath it. They are not loud, and I can turn them on/off as needed from a switch in the end of the handle bars.
After hitting 150C on the steep climb, with the fans running, it only took around 5min to get down to under 80C and we could keep going. I've found under hard riding conditions it keeps the average motor temps around 10-15C lower than before. This is enough for me to recommend it. I imagine it would be even better with the 40mm motor.

Cheers

 

[TorEddy]

I can see the use for these fans in hotter climates than we have in Norway, but how do these fans hold up in dust, mud and washing of the bike?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I can see the use for these fans in hotter climates than we have in Norway, but how do these fans hold up in dust, mud and washing of the bike?

They might not, but so far so good. They are cheap so if they die I'll just replace them.

The other option I've considered is done low profile heat sinks on the exposed rhs of the motor, but they would need to be low otherwise it would be painful for your ankles!

Cheers

 

[hkj]

Has someone else noticed a loud creaking noise coming from the bottom of the bike when pedaling? Somewhere around the motor and lower battery attachment point? Probably some dirt or small rock that got inside but I cannot locate it.
Initially I thought it was the suspension but that's not the case. Running the motor does not produce it either. Seems mostly to happen when I sit on the bike and pedal.. Haven't had this issue before, started a few weeks ago. Tried cleaning the bike properly but still the same.

 

[ringring]

The damper creaked on my bike. I disassembled it, lubricated the bushings with white bicycle grease, and it went quiet. Maybe this? Are your cranks bolted securely to the bottom bracket?

 

[TorEddy]

Has someone else noticed a loud creaking noise coming from the bottom of the bike when pedaling? Somewhere around the motor and lower battery attachment point? Probably some dirt or small rock that got inside but I cannot locate it.
Initially I thought it was the suspension but that's not the case. Running the motor does not produce it either. Seems mostly to happen when I sit on the bike and pedal.. Haven't had this issue before, started a few weeks ago. Tried cleaning the bike properly but still the same.

This might well be the bottom bracket. Try taking it out and apply grease everywhere

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Has someone else noticed a loud creaking noise coming from the bottom of the bike when pedaling? Somewhere around the motor and lower battery attachment point? Probably some dirt or small rock that got inside but I cannot locate it.
Initially I thought it was the suspension but that's not the case. Running the motor does not produce it either. Seems mostly to happen when I sit on the bike and pedal.. Haven't had this issue before, started a few weeks ago. Tried cleaning the bike properly but still the same.

I'm almost certain it will be your cranks coming loose as I had the exact same thing happen to mine recently and that's what it was.

I know it's probably not the 'proper' way to do it, but I find standing on the allen key with all my body weight to tighten the cranks is generally about 'tight enough'.

Cheers

 

[Joe]

Just a thought.
If we cut out the frame as in the picture. And then add a steel support beam to the frame. The strength of the frame shouldn’t be weakened. Now the possibility of adding a wider battery would be possible. I’m I completely wrong or would that work.

 

[briangv99]

Just a thought.
If we cut out the frame as in the picture. And then add a steel support beam to the frame. The strength of the frame shouldn’t be weakened. Now the possibility of adding a wider battery would be possible. I’m I completely wrong or would that work.

Seems a little bit extreme. What battery did you have in mind that would require that kind of surgery?

 

[markz]

You have room for more height on the battery, go that way.

edit
Time for you to make a custom battery. You even have space above the top bar and below the down tube where your front fender might get in the way.

 

[scrambler]

1600 Wh minimum

I think LMX should consider a Frame update to accommodate a large battery compartment.

You can still make it modular so you can have a small or a big one depending on the weight you want to carry.

 

[Chalo]

Just a thought.
If we cut out the frame as in the picture. And then add a steel support beam to the frame.

How do you propose to attach this "support beam"? You will most likely shift the point of failure from where you have cut away important parts of the frame, to where you attached the reinforcement.

Why not work within the limitations of the frame you have, or else get another one that isn't as limited?

 

[Joe]

It was only a thought.
I have stainless steel linear bearing tracks which are 10cm (or wider) wide and what ever length you need. These have 20 bolt holes or more. They’re are strong as it gets. Underneath the battery holder. Over the entire length of the frame if needed. Bolt it to the frame in multi places. They’re only 1cm high. It would allow a much larger battery to be inserted. Like I say. Only a thought. Someone would have to make me a battery. I’m not a battery man.
Today I boosted my setting from max 50amps to 55amps. Nice boost. No problems with the standard battery. It pulls nicely with this setting. Only rode 20km. But great enduro tracks. You can lift the front wheel with a blip over puddles and after all the rain here that was fun.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Can anyone confirm that the Nucular will take 84v? I'm pretty sure it does, but want to confirm before I plug it in. I'm just using my LMX to test a battery... No intention of running at that voltage normally.

Also in terms of the larger capacity battery fitting the LMX64... I have plans to build a split pack. No need to cut the frame. With the cells stacked vertically it should be possible to fit two layers for around 14s12p using 18650s. Feel free to beat me to it as it will take me a while before I get around to it.

Cheers

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I'll answer my own question...yes 84V is fine and spins up the rear like lightning!

Now to try and keep the front down as I take it for a test ride with over 3Kwh in a backpack. 8)

Cheers