E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

It's great to see it turn a wheel :D Nice one. I strongly suggest you fix those packs to the frame somehow - either a compression strap or some Velcro, just something to stop them from moving and fretting on the frame or each other, especially if you plan on going over jumps and bumps.

Will have to wait for the video :)
 
Bulk charged to 100volt and dad Ive Velcroed the packs down

E449A327-76ED-4A7F-B335-8314FB5A380A-1872-000001D3C4755835.jpg
 
Hello, safety tip of the day is wear your body armour. Actually I haven't got any and I'm paying the price for it.

Ryan and i were going for our first ride together when I fell off. Hit a kerb and could bring the bike back. Had the go pro on the bike but it wasn't recording. The lens is cracked so no vids for a while.

No broken Bones so I'm lucky. We did ave a short video which ill post when I upload it.

It's going to be interesting going to work tomorrow trying too explain to the guys what happened and since I write their procedures and make sure that they follow them ensuring that they must wear there PPE. I feel a bit of a knob.

3059759C-B57A-44CE-B66D-7ED2F9908AD3-194-0000000ECB3A28B8.jpg
 
Video of the 2 Phasors

Hyena can you reprogram my lyens controller for me if I send it to you. Ill send some cash with it for postage and your time. Its maximum amps are 30. it should be able to run on 50. I don't seem to be able to install the software and get it working.


The 3580 with 26 inch tyres and a chrystalyte 45 amp 18fet controllers leaves the 4080 for dead and its running the 17 inch wheel.


Just dressed my wounds now and the stinging has gone. Apart for a pulled muscle in my chest somewhere sore to cough, 1 sprained finger on my left hand and a sprained thumb on my right hand I came out of it quite well.

[youtube]EChDOqGXZZ4[/youtube]
 
ouch, I hope you're alright mate. that controller could put out over 50ams, i have the 18x4115 at 60amps and it doesnt get hot at all ever, i added extra wire and solder to the traces and extra heat sink compound to the fet block. also added a 70ºc buzzer next to the fets inside the shell and it has NEVER beeped. i think you should set the limit higher and use the ca to keep it modest for normal/off road use. i think kepler had 12kw with 120 odd volts so thats 100amp (on the same controller). I would say 80 is still quite safe. just be gentle with it after the mod and see if it gets hot.
edit
here is the page with his controller mod, he set it to 80amps. (scroll down to controller) http://www.electricbike.com/stealth-hot-rod/
 
Rodney64 said:
Video of the 2 Phasors

Hyena can you reprogram my lyens controller for me if I send it to you. Ill send some cash with it for postage and your time. Its maximum amps are 30. it should be able to run on 50. I don't seem to be able to install the software and get it working.


The 3580 with 26 inch tyres and a chrystalyte 45 amp 18fet controllers leaves the 4080 for dead and its running the 17 inch wheel.


Just dressed my wounds now and the stinging has gone. Apart for a pulled muscle in my chest somewhere sore to cough, 1 sprained finger on my left hand and a sprained thumb on my right hand I came out of it quite well.

[youtube]EChDOqGXZZ4[/youtube]
You can bring it around my place in ascot if you want and we can tune it till your happy :D
 
Rodney64 said:
Thanks Falco ill take you up on your offer. Ill give you a message during the week to organise a time

No worries. Im busy for the next few days while i move but after thats sorted im free. PM me when you want to plan a time :D
 
pendragon8000 said:
ouch, I hope you're alright mate. that controller could put out over 50ams, i have the 18x4115 at 60amps and it doesnt get hot at all ever, i added extra wire and solder to the traces and extra heat sink compound to the fet block. also added a 70ºc buzzer next to the fets inside the shell and it has NEVER beeped. i think you should set the limit higher and use the ca to keep it modest for normal/off road use. i think kepler had 12kw with 120 odd volts so thats 100amp (on the same controller). I would say 80 is still quite safe. just be gentle with it after the mod and see if it gets hot.
edit
here is the page with his controller mod, he set it to 80amps. (scroll down to controller) http://www.electricbike.com/stealth-hot-rod/


Thanks Pendragon8000 went to the doctor and no broken ribs only bruised. Thanks also for the controller advise.

I'm now on the lookout for some elbow and knee armor. Ill have a look in Perth shops to see what's available. I'm not sure if its something that can be purchased online expecting it to fit correctly

Any suggestions from folk who have used elbow and knee pads would be appreciated.
 
i got these 'cos they had great reviews in MTBR.com and they are great, honestly i can wear them after a ride and not be bothered, i pedal at 60kph all the time wearing them, i feel naked without them when im riding fast with shorts.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21827
21827.jpg

i also got brand x body armor, it could be said to be excesive but i have a physical job so i gota look after the money maker :)
looks like they only have white.. to mesure i did a tape around my chest right up under my arm-pits, i have alot of uper body muscle so i got a large even though im not a hugh guy.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31111
31111.jpg
 
Rod, glad you are not injured to bad. That's good. PPE would have helped, but for some reason hind sight is always 20/20. Your 4080 with the 17 should be smoking your sons 3580 with the 26" (except top speed) given that everything else being equal. Either a controller problem or the pack Jones made for Ryan's Phasor is just that much better. Can't wait to see what Falco does.

Rick
 
Rodney don't send the controller to Jay just yet if you like, I can have a go at reprogramming it I have the latest software here...did mine no probs, could save you some down time and money, send it to Jay if I can't get it working perhaps? Give us a call on 040 905 6969 tomorrow sometime?

KiM
 
AussieJester said:
Rodney don't send the controller to Jay just yet if you like, I can have a go at reprogramming it I have the latest software here...did mine no probs, could save you some down time and money, send it to Jay if I can't get it working perhaps? Give us a call on 040 905 6969 tomorrow sometime?
KiM

This is what I like about the ES Forum. Its about sharing info and the people who know helping the people who are learning. Way to go Kim and Falco.
 
saw this for 100.00 USD http://www.bikeville.com/freewheels.html
 

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Rix said:
Dimpirate, thats great news, everything is coming together for you. Might I make a suggestion? The Skinko SR244 2.75x19 are great tires, but the Shinko SR241 2.75x19 are also great and weigh .95 kg or almost 2 pound less in this size. 244s are about 8 pounds and the 241s about 6 pounds each so could save an additional 4 pounds. The reason for the weight difference is the 244s are DOT approved and the 241 are not. The 244s have a laod rating of over 500# vs the 241s around 416#. I am excited about your build, it will be fast and tough :mrgreen:

Rick
according to the chart the Shinko guy sent me link to,the 241-2.75-19 is rated at 342 pounds and the 244-2.75-21 is rated at 375 pounds and BOTH have "y" checked on DOT rating BOTH are P speed rated and BOTH have overall dimesions of 25.16" and 2.90 width....so if your information on weight IS correct,the 241-2.75-21 will save me 4 pounds on 2 tires!....seems like a good trade off hope you are right on weights could not find that info

also,what is a "J" speed rating???



http://shinkotire.co.kr/02product/sub01_detail.asp?pcode=AA00050045

http://shinkotire.co.kr/02product/sub01_detail.asp?pcode=AA00070060
 
The reason that the 241 are a little lighter than the 244s is that the 244s are 6 ply tires and the 241 are 4 ply. For reference, the Duro Razorbacks are some of the heaviest MTB tires out there at 2ply. That weight reference I made was for comparing two tires. When I said about 6 pounds for the 241 and just over 8 pounds for the 244, Its really like 6.7 pounds for the 241 and 8.1 pounds for the 244. I was using whole number and simple math to make the data easier to remember. The actual weight difference is closer to 1.5 pounds instead of 2 pounds difference. I just re read my comment and see why it was mis-leading. The load ratings are confusing me as well. That data I quoted was from one of numerous cycle retailers I looked at. Anyway, the sight listed the 244 3.00-17 at 57 load rated which is 507 pounds. Then another listed it at 50 which 419 pounds. The tire retailer I bought my shinkos from rated both the 2.75-17 and 3.00-17 as a 50 load rated which is 419 pound. But when I got them, they were marked 384 pounds on the side wall which 47 load rated respectively and DOT approved as well. So I am finding it strange that the 2.75-19 would have a lower load rating than the 2.75-17 counter part. Maybe the Chinese changed their tire specs without notice, I don't know. I was wrong about the DOT approval, both tires are. Shinko lists the 241 in the offroad only portion on their website instead of the dual purpose portion which lead me to that conclusion. My bad. Anyway, I responded to your PM. Let me know what you think.

Rick
 
Rix said:
Thanks for posting the clearance pics Rod. If you want there is enough room to go to the larger 3-17 Shinko SR241. Its 23.9 inches and would work better in all conditions over that knobby. I wish I would have discovered that before I sent you the knobbie oh well. The issue you are having with the forks top triple clamp is why I have been telling the future Phasor builders who have contacted me for components selection to double up on the 5mm and 10mm head spacers. Its just in case the top triple clamp needs to be lifted off the head tube for steering clearance issues.

Rick

not really sure what you are saying?....if you lift the crown up.does not the tube come up with it?...and the difference between the crown forging and the tube is only a few milimeters is it not?...but I guess every bit helps...
 
Korpin With the mazzotchi 888 forks I had to have a couple of spacers under the top tripple clamp.

With the roc shox forks they came with 2 top clamps, one clamp hit the frame and the other missed the frame by 5mm.

Now I havent had a chance to check out my bike as I was sore yesterday but the front forks aren't rebounding as they should, they're rebounding slow. I'm hoping that the tripple clamps are twisted and just require loosening. Feeling a lot better today breathing ok now. Doctor was worried that the thoracic cavity may have been putting pressure on my lung.
 
Doctor was worried that the thoracic cavity may have been putting pressure on my lung.

Rod, it almost sounds like you have a broken rib. Man take it easy. Guys like us are getting older and need to heal from crashes :oops: .

Rick
 
Rix said:
Doctor was worried that the thoracic cavity may have been putting pressure on my lung.

Rod, it almost sounds like you have a broken rib. Man take it easy. Guys like us are getting older and need to heal from crashes :oops: .

Rick


Yes maybe my ribs are cracked but the doctors tapped each rib and it wasn't sore so he was confident that they wern't broken only bruised.

Checked my bike out and all seems good. Adjusted the rebound on the left side which it fell on. looks like that was the problem.

I had my elbow and knee dressed at work, no infection so that's good.

Hope to be back on the bike soon.
 
I've been thinking that I may fit the Cromotor to my Phasor with the 135mm dropout and run it with a single freewheel.

Ryan's really happy with the 3580 on his phasor and he's out riding it now. With the Lyens 18 fet running on 30 amps its almost bullet proof. Will put the 4080 on his bike eventually though.
 
I have been told the new Cros have a 145mm wide spacing from axle face to axle face. Your 135mm will have to be widen about 10mm to fit. I don't think the canting angle on your swingarm dropouts will change enough to effect anything. May want to look into having Dpearce make you another swingarm. All that being said, I really like your Idea of going to the Cro. Maybe you and Ryan can swap swingarms, paint them both black, and go from there. Actually the blue on white and white on blue would look really neat I bet.

Rick
 
Rix said:
I have been told the new Cros have a 145mm wide spacing from axle face to axle face. Your 135mm will have to be widen about 10mm to fit. I don't think the canting angle on your swingarm dropouts will change enough to effect anything. May want to look into having Dpearce make you another swingarm. All that being said, I really like your Idea of going to the Cro. Maybe you and Ryan can swap swingarms, paint them both black, and go from there. Actually the blue on white and white on blue would look really neat I bet.

Rick
I have 150 swingarms....would it be posible to put 5 speed cassette with cromotor?...because it seems the smallest single speed freewheel is 14 and that would throw my whole schlumph set up off which is working with 11 rear now
 
Rix said:
Korpin, thats good information, about the schlumpf, definately the hot setup for the Phasor based on your experience. Can you confirm the 10 t freewheel on your back for me? Who makes it? I went to a bike shop for my dads conversion and all freewheels 14 t and under wouldn't fit becuase they were BMX style instead of singlesppeed freewheel. Thanks in advance.
my bad..its actually an 11 attached to 9 speed cassette with schlumph 30/75 up front its about all I use except for extreme dirt climbing
 
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