E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

Korpin, thats good information, about the schlumpf, definately the hot setup for the Phasor based on your experience. Can you confirm the 10 t freewheel on your back for me? Who makes it? I went to a bike shop for my dads conversion and all freewheels 14 t and under wouldn't fit becuase they were BMX style instead of singlesppeed freewheel. Thanks in advance.

Rod, nice vid as usual, looks like it had rained recently. What bike were you on?

Rick
 
Rix said:
Korpin, thats good information, about the schlumpf, definately the hot setup for the Phasor based on your experience. Can you confirm the 10 t freewheel on your back for me? Who makes it? I went to a bike shop for my dads conversion and all freewheels 14 t and under wouldn't fit becuase they were BMX style instead of singlesppeed freewheel. Thanks in advance.

Rod, nice vid as usual, looks like it had rained recently. What bike were you on?

Rick
well it came with 4065 motor i got at HPC its a 9 speed cassette if that helps any HPC would know
 
korpin said:
Rix said:
Korpin, thats good information, about the schlumpf, definately the hot setup for the Phasor based on your experience. Can you confirm the 10 t freewheel on your back for me? Who makes it? I went to a bike shop for my dads conversion and all freewheels 14 t and under wouldn't fit becuase they were BMX style instead of singlesppeed freewheel. Thanks in advance.
Rod, nice vid as usual, looks like it had rained recently. What bike were you on?
Rick
well it came with 4065 motor i got at HPC its a 9 speed cassette if that helps any HPC would know

Oh duh, you have a 9 speed freewheel. For some reason, I forgot that. Glad its working out with the schlumpf. Pics?

Rick
 
Rix said:
korpin said:
Rix said:
Korpin, thats good information, about the schlumpf, definately the hot setup for the Phasor based on your experience. Can you confirm the 10 t freewheel on your back for me? Who makes it? I went to a bike shop for my dads conversion and all freewheels 14 t and under wouldn't fit becuase they were BMX style instead of singlesppeed freewheel. Thanks in advance.
Rod, nice vid as usual, looks like it had rained recently. What bike were you on?
Rick
well it came with 4065 motor i got at HPC its a 9 speed cassette if that helps any HPC would know

Oh duh, you have a 9 speed freewheel. For some reason, I forgot that. Glad its working out with the schlumpf. Pics?

Rick
[bpowers that be do not like my photos no matter if they are UNBER k80 bits ] the part where YOU said " Can you confirm the 10 t freewheel on your back for me" not sure what u implying by that but I counted if thats what you are implying [/b]
 
I think by saying" lying on your back" you are saying mention the fact that those kind people at Pacific Rides put a lock sccrew on the schlumph because the split cone was worthless for me to keep schlumph from spinning THANK YOU PACIFIC RIDES in california!!!!
 
korpin said:
I think by saying" lying on your back" you are saying mention the fact that those kind people at Pacific Rides put a lock sccrew on the schlumph because the split cone was worthless for me to keep schlumph from spinning THANK YOU PACIFIC RIDES in california!!!!


Korpin have you had a night out on the piss because you're not making a lot of sense :mrgreen: but that's ok we're all Intitled to a night out. Vid uploading now.
 
Nice day here today in Perth and its Mother's Day, Ryan cooked breakfast for mum then we packed the bikes up into the van and headed off to the bike park.



[youtube]I0wCRXUOK-A[/youtube]
 
jonescg said:
Hey Rodney,

I have finished soldering the packs. They look neat and tidy. I have started to build a perspex box just like my e-bike pack however these smaller cells are a bit less consistent in their size. I reckon it will be a very tight squeeze to get them into the box. I should have built the box afterwards, but I needed five sheets of acrylic to fill the space in the jig. I will try to build the box around the cells if possible, but if it all goes to shit I'll leave the box fabrication to you :lol:

Rodney64, box looks good to me Chris. Ryanthelions battery is 360mm long, 80 wide and 130mm high. Not bad considering it a 24S 3C pack.

F3555A41-221C-4836-99BE-7EB33631008D-897-000000EF640016B1.jpg
 
This pack will be 91 mm wide, 155 mm tall and 372 mm long with the arcylic box. 24s3p, so about 90 V at 15 Ah, or 1300 Wh. I reckon even a lazy pedal rate would get you 60 km on 700C wheels, not sure what range on knobbly 17's though.
 
the part where YOU said " Can you confirm the 10 t freewheel on your back for me" not sure what u implying by that but I counted if thats what you are
Korpin, wasn't implying anything, I thought when you said you had a 10t on the back, it was a single speed free wheel, not the 9 speed you are running. I forgot you had a 9 speed, and wanted you to confirm the 10t because If it was a single speed free wheel that some how was engineered to fit a hub motor, I would have started recommending that for the up and coming Phasor builders that have contacted me about putting components lists together. No implications, that's all I was saying.

Rod, great vid with you and your son. That was a little bit of a close call, enough to make you ride off the track. In Yosemite, I was following Hyena with the his GP and he was on my Bomber, he wheelied off the trail and almost into a big set of bushes and a tree. Hopefully the go pro picked that up. :mrgreen: Thanks for the link to the 13t free wheel, I will check it out.

Jones CG, beautiful battery. Seems like I read somewhere on ES that you build custom packs for people or used too. Is that still the case? As far as efficiency goes with Knobbies, you would be surprised at how low the rolling resistance is. I know its not a road tire or a MTB tire but it is easier to pedal than one would think and coasts surprisingly well, at least I was impressed.

Rick
 
Rodney64 said:
jonescg said:
Hey Rodney,

I have finished soldering the packs. They look neat and tidy. I have started to build a perspex box just like my e-bike pack however these smaller cells are a bit less consistent in their size. I reckon it will be a very tight squeeze to get them into the box. I should have built the box afterwards, but I needed five sheets of acrylic to fill the space in the jig. I will try to build the box around the cells if possible, but if it all goes to shit I'll leave the box fabrication to you :lol:

Rodney64, box looks good to me Chris. Ryanthelions battery is 360mm long, 80 wide and 130mm high. Not bad considering it a 24S 3C pack.

F3555A41-221C-4836-99BE-7EB33631008D-897-000000EF640016B1.jpg
well thats really nice and neat wish my battery pack looked like that..what kinda amp hours/voltage you going for?

by the way,you were right pissed silly last night cheap 10 year year old single malt from trader joes 20 bucks a bottle :lol:
 
Hey Rix, yes I'm still building custom LiPo packs. Unfortunately they are expensive because the base cost of the cell is $12-$15 each with shipping. But they come together fairly quickly and can take crazy currents. Best of all there's no mess of 8 gauge wires and multiple connectors to potentially get wrong.

Wait till you see the LiPo pack I'm building for my race bike :twisted:
 
Jonescg, I would be interested in having you build me a pack. after this last week watching Hyena build my dads pack, I know that it not very hard to build a harness but very easy to screw stuff up and I just don't have the knowledge to do this on my own. Hyena paralled my dads balence charge leads so each paralled bank can be charged at the same time. Or if I disconnect the series lead, all banks can be charged at the same time. Naturally bulk charging is done through the primary leads, but thats the extent of my Lipo knowledge. I really need a plug n play. When I get closer to go time I will shoot you a PM with dimensions and see what you can come up with. Figure a month or two. Can t wait to see your pack on your race bike. Please post it.

Rick
 
Rodney64 said:
Korpin this battery has about 1300 usable watt hours, 90 volt, 100.6 hot off charge.
yes just like you said in caption lol still under the effects :p
 
Rix said:
Korpin, I was one the dudes that said you didn't need all the gears, but I was refering more to the amount of ratios. If you recall, I said if I could design gear box, it would only have 4-5 speeds gapped out for ebike applications. If I was to go the cog/cluster route on an ebike like you and Rod, I would go with a custom cog assembly like this. 34, 26, 20, 13. For the front, I would go big. The gaps in the ratio I just layed out would be annoying on a non powered ebike. But lets say I was running a 46t up front. The 46t with the 34, or 26, would be all I could probably handle pedaling a 100 pound (46kg) Ebike with out power. And with power assist would be good for off road hill climbs. Then the 20 and 13t option would be Ideal for pedal assit power options on less steep terrain. And this would be for speeds between 0 and 35MPH. On my bomber, I have a 9 speed box with a 610% ratio spread. BTW, thats a huge spread. When assisting my bike under power, I never use 1st 2nd, or 3rd. When assiting under power I mostly use 6, 7, and 9. When I pedal with out power, I mostly use 2nd and 4th. And when I shift, I skip directlty to them. If I could have a 4 speed gear box, I would have speeds 2, 4, 6or7, and 9. Thats it. As a stated earlier If I could have a 5 speed box, it would be 1, 2, 4, 6or7, and 9. I would probably chose 6 over 7 to keep the ratio between 4 and 9 a little more centered. Like Rod said, just got to go with your gut and what you like. What I just said is what I would like to have, doens't mean thats what everbody would like to have.

Rod, can view your posted video 3rd bush ride from this POS laptop I got, I wil check it out later.

Rick
I realize this an old post,but I have been re-reading the phasor forum from page one LOTS of great information

1)you are corect...with a high speed schlumph up front,5 gears is plenty to get you home if power is gone

2)how is the bomber at shifting when going uphill under load?
 
saw lots of older posts on 4065 motor mine is from HPC vented/heat sensor/silver coated wiring harness my thoughts so far:

HPC will say its rated to 5000 watts thats BULLSHIT from my personal experience meted the wiring TWICE at 40-45 amps I believe the wiring harness for the 4065 is simply not thick enough to handle that kinda wattage

BUT the motor still works great and runs fine at 30 amps (90 volts)and I can go 45-50 mph with the schlumph drive and 30 amps so that is plenty for right now

so I think the 4065 and close to 3000 watts with a high speed 1:2.5 schlumph drive is a perfect combination for this bike for speed/range/weight unless you plan on taking your phasor on the freeway or you are in a hill climbing competition....has anyone heard/seen of the new ones with aluminum stators?..heard they are 2-3 pounds lighter
 

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somebody asked for photo...there is also a patterson drive for 25% the cost BUT it comes only in 1:1.6 ratio and really believe the 2.5 is optimal for this bike and also the patterson has a cable the schlumph does not.... the easy shift levers are highly recommended but after parts,shipping,customs,and tool kit and milling tool rental expect to pay over 1000.00 USD for this upgrade
was it worth it?...to me,so far....yes

oh and YES you CAN shift going uphill but it does have trouble shifting under load so you must stop pedaling sometimes to get to lower gear

link for patterson: http://pattersonbike.com/products/
 

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4 x JST plugs on the pack. Now you can use the BC168 to balance charge one quarter of the pack once a month or so.
Phasor pack leads.jpg
I hope to finish the acrylic boxes tomorrow afternoon, should be ready by Thursday :)

I put the cell log 8 across all of the leads - perfect balance :) Nothing more than 5 mV out from each other. Just sorting the high voltages from the slightly lower ones will make a difference longer term. More sorting at this stage means they should stay well in balance for the long haul.
 
jonescg said:
4 x JST plugs on the pack. Now you can use the BC168 to balance charge one quarter of the pack once a month or so.

I hope to finish the acrylic boxes tomorrow afternoon, should be ready by Thursday :)

I put the cell log 8 across all of the leads - perfect balance :) Nothing more than 5 mV out from each other. Just sorting the high voltages from the slightly lower ones will make a difference longer term. More sorting at this stage means they should stay well in balance for the long haul.


Chris the packs looking good. Can't wait to see it powering the Cromotor with one of zombies 36 fet controllers. Take a deep breath Aussie Jester? Maybe I've had a couple but that's ok.
 
Rod, just watched your video again at the goat park. That 17 rear wheel really likes the 4080 :D . I can tell by the throttle response that you are not hurting for power. Going to be neat to see that with the cromotor and Jonescg pack. That pack has got to be rated for over 500 amps easily which would turn any hub motor to mush if running 50KW through it :shock: Anyway looking at your vid, there should be a nob or screw towards the bottom of your shock (your shock is mounted up side down so look towards the top). Turn that nob/screw clockwise (inward) a couple of clicks. This will slow down your rear suspension rebound (rate that your suspension goes back up after compression) and keep it from popping up on you when you go into the face of a jump and your suspension is compressed (pre loaded). I think your suspensions quick rebound was what caused you to go off to the side of the track where you noted you almost crashed in the video.

Korpin, thanks for posting the pics of the cranks. Not sure what to think of the 5000 watt continues rating PHC has rated your motor for. Hyena runs his 4065 @ 9000 watt bursts and hasn't had any issues. But you are smoking the halls wires, so your BS assessment is right. I am wondering if you need to go to thicker 11g wires and if there is room to do so? Anyway, the cranks look great. I have heard rumors that the aluminum crown motor is not a durable as originally advertised. The crowns weight is supposed to be few pounds lighter than your current motor, the cromotor is just about 5 pounds heavier and we know that thing is tough. I would look into a cromotor upgrade to you ride. One thing I can say about the big hubmotors like the cro and 5403-5404 that I have ran on the bomber, is I don't have to worry about them running 5+KW continues.

JonesCg, love that battery pack you built. That is truly a plug and play lipo battery. Paralleled one charge tap for each 6s paralleled series, and I imagine you will have a bulk charge option coming directly off the main power leads. Even I can understand that. That is one beautiful awesome pack. Worth every single penny.

Rick
 
Rix said:
Korpin, thanks for posting the pics of the cranks. Not sure what to think of the 5000 watt continues rating PHC has rated your motor for. Hyena runs his 4065 @ 9000 watt bursts and hasn't had any issues. But you are smoking the halls wires, so your BS assessment is right. I am wondering if you need to go to thicker 11g wires and if there is room to do so? Anyway, the cranks look great. I have heard rumors that the aluminum crown motor is not a durable as originally advertised. The crowns weight is supposed to be few pounds lighter than your current motor, the cromotor is just about 5 pounds heavier and we know that thing is tough. I would look into a cromotor upgrade to you ride. One thing I can say about the big hubmotors like the cro and 5403-5404 that I have ran on the bomber, is I don't have to worry about them running 5+KW continues.

JonesCg, love that battery pack you built. That is truly a plug and play lipo battery. Paralleled one charge tap for each 6s paralleled series, and I imagine you will have a bulk charge option coming directly off the main power leads. Even I can understand that. That is one beautiful awesome pack. Worth every single penny.

Rick
well asked them about making wires thicker but they said not enough room in axle the motor probably CAN handle that wattage on flat ground but even then it gets hot could smell it cooking (probably the spray on boshield) even on flat ground but the major damage was from climbing seems ok climbing with 30 amps or less.....thinking about the cromotor but not sure I really need all that power already hitting close to 50 now but if i burn this motor,of course i will go bigger...thinking of those shinko 244 tires NICE!...

talked to HPC about motors...the aluminum stator versions turned out to be only one pound less so no go for now...and the Crown motor guess they are having problems with higher wattages that the motors were advertised for...seems the cromotor is it for now with those WIDE beefy magnets....I saw the inside of crown,lots of copper but narrow magnets(about the same as my 4065)...at least not what you would expect by seeing wide crown body...perhaps it was a protype not sure

I LIKE THE BATTER YPAK TOO with that clear acrylic should be able to spot any faults pretty easy and it provides arcing to frame protection
 
Rick, thanks for the recomendations on the shock will try and reduce the rebound. Yes throttle responce is good plenty of power, a couple of times was even using the 3 speed switch in the 2nd position and the 4080 does like the 17 inch wheel. Defently recomend it and it still hit 80 kilometers an hour, maybe more with the crystalyte controller 18 fet which will eat this lyens controller.

Yes Korpin this arcrylic battery box will deffently be good for ballaning and removing the pack once a month. With the size of the cells and the way the packs made it would be possibe to make this pack into a 4S pack but the current size will be good for 60-70K with moderate peddling.


I agree with you Korpin that these motors run well at 3-4000 watts. The 4080 is currently running on 35 amps thats what Lyens has programed it to.

Anyway may have both Phasors running on the weekend on 100 volt Ryans with the 3580. Just recieved a 60mm IS brake mount so will try it tonite to see if it fits. Ive modified mounts previously to run the rear brake. Will let eveyone know if Ive found the correct mount and if it fits withouts moding.
 
The pack is done :)

Phasor pack done 001.jpg

Phasor pack done 002.jpg

I have just taped the lids down with cellotape, but I would recommend you put some silicone in there once you've done a few balance cycles. It's not a waterproof pack by any stretch, but the silicone will prevent the lid from working loose. The cells are in there rather tight, so there shouldn't be any fretting. If for some reason you need to take the cells out, you will be better off trying to build a new box as it won't go back in the second time :lol:

Like I say, I'm no good at this box fabrication shit. If I had the right tools for it, I would have made the box a wee bit bigger and used polycarbonate instead of acrylic. Acrylic cracks too easily while PC takes a lot of force to deform. I would have also bent the U-shape first, like for Joe's 25C, 20s3p pack. Then again, I would probably be inclined to give it all to someone else to make for me :lol:

I can bring it to the AEVA meeting tonight if you are coming, otherwise I'll being it to you on Thursday.
 
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