E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

Nice Rock Shox. That will go great on Ryanthelion's Phasor. When I have a mentally taxing day at work, an Ebike ride followed by a couple of beers puts me right again. Well it sounds like your rim will be here tomorrow. Do you need anything clarified on mounting the tire?

Rick
 
Rix said:
He posted a couple of pics 20 pages or so back. Nothing else. Really hoping that he would have been active on the thread, his build is the extreme as far as battery capacity goes. He set the standard with almost 3kw of battery compacity.

Rod, here is a pic of me riding around with my son. Hes 21 months and has a few years to go before he pilots his own, but man he loves Ebikes.

Rick
I'm here all the time, I'm just very quiet, I hide in the shadows and wait.... I have been really busy with my electric Yamaha Vino 49cc conversion and riding my Phasor all the time. I have had no issues with the bike. I have over 3000 miles on it now and can't get enough of it. To give you an idea of how much I love the bike, I traded my 2013 Shelby GT500 for a Ford Escape just to take the bike with me when I travel. I will post some more videos of the scooter soon. It's stupid fast, hits 60 in under 3 seconds and tops out near 90mph, and that's at 75% power. There is a video of me racing my friends Hemi truck on youtube with the scooter at 30% power. Search for "electric scooter hemi"
 
Good to hear from you HD Killer. Checked out the Yamaha wine, I mean vino. Thats quick. You were pulling the Dodge. Looking forward to more of you Phasor build details.

Rick
 
Rodney64 said:
Fitted the new forks to Ryan's Phasor. Haven't decided if we are going to cut the tube but more than likely not.


DSC_6769.jpg


The headset fitted is a FSA orbit on the white Phasor.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=2217

On the blue Phasor I decided to get the bike shop to fit my headset. The bike shop had a FSA orbit Extreme which i had fitted.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=1232

I believe its important to spend on a good quality headset.

Ryan's FSA Orbit headset

DSC_6767.jpg



DSC_6769.jpg




Now to the 17 inch moped rim. It arrived to day, thanks Glowworm cycles. It looks good.

2F830D36-12B8-4701-BC25-B548FB49628E-736-00000080EDC9DBC3.jpg


After some help from Ryan we managed to get the tyre on. But haven't managed to get it all the way out to the bead on each side so will take it to a bike shop tomorrow.

06030A7C-A00D-4A97-A096-50E27D1DA5C9-736-0000008101FE3A61.jpg


Looking forward to getting this 4080 going. Doesn't it look good.

DSC_6766.jpg


Pic of the 2 Phasors together.

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Rod that wheel looks fantastic :p . I see that you tried soap/water on it. Still didnt rise up on the bead? The bike shop will probably take it up to 80 PSI and get it to rise up on the bead. I have done that before but its scary. I had a tire fail on my blow becuase I over inflated it trying to get the tire up on the bead. Thats why I recommended the 25+ over maximum PSI rating. Anyway you got the tire on. Once on your Phasor, you will love it no boubt, let me know what the shop did. Maybe they have some technique I never heard of before for seating tires on rims. The fork looks great on Ryanthelion's Phasor. No doubt it handles better and stiffer than the single crown. Does the top trippleclamp contacted the frame before the rubber stop on the fork tube when steer left and right? From the pics, I can tell if it does or not. Very good builds, looking forward to the videos that will follow.

Rick
 
Today I managed to get my moped 17inch motor cycle rim up and going.

The hub motor is a 4080 and the tyres a maxis knobbly 70-100-17

The moped rim and Maxis rim were offered to me by "Rix" to do a ride report which I accepted. Thanks very much Rick.


The motor defently has a lot more torque and the motors running cooler.

For me the main advantage is from a safety aspect. Considering this is what I do at work.

I havent had a chance to test its speed but managed 68kmh with out much effort and 0-60 test is a lot quicker but with a different controller so its not a fair test.


I will post further info after I try the chrystalyte controller as its max amps are 50.

My Lyens 18 fet controllers maxing out at 30 amps and I don't have my own laptop to reprogram it.

40B2FCC1-EA10-49A5-9011-A61E72FC5B1E-736-000000E3BD99C71C.jpg


Will post more photos when I get my moped rim back from Glowworm cycles for the front.
 
Rod, that looks neat. Its funny because the offroad motorcycle industry has had smaller rear rims to front rim ratios for decades now. The biggest reason is handling. An off road dirt bike typically comes with an 18 rear rim, motocrossers come with a 19 rear rim, and everyone is running 21 inches up front. The OD of your average 18 offroad tire is around 25-26". The OD for your average 21 offroad front is around 27-28". This would be the equivalent of running a 24"mtb on the rear with a 26"mtb on the front. Specialized bikes did this year ago with a model called the "Big Hit". Hands down one of the best high speed down hill handling confidence inspiring bikes ever made. I don't know why the MTB industry hasn't stayed with this concept except that its easier for the consumer to only need to buy one size tire and tube for a bicycle. I have achieved a really close ratio with the current set up on the bomber which is your rear rim on the back and a 24"MTB rim on the front. OD respectively are 23.9 and 25.6. Handles fantastic. Can you take a pic standing behind the Phasor looking down at the wheel and swing arm area.

Rick
 
Thanks for posting the clearance pics Rod. If you want there is enough room to go to the larger 3-17 Shinko SR241. Its 23.9 inches and would work better in all conditions over that knobby. I wish I would have discovered that before I sent you the knobbie oh well. The issue you are having with the forks top triple clamp is why I have been telling the future Phasor builders who have contacted me for components selection to double up on the 5mm and 10mm head spacers. Its just in case the top triple clamp needs to be lifted off the head tube for steering clearance issues.

Rick
 
I thought I'd share a small project that I completed with my son over the weekend.

We stripped a marzocchi rear shock, sanded and repainted the rear spring. Will give it a second coat of paint this weekend. We removed this shock from the Norco A-line 2008 edition. It has a 500lb spring which seems to still work well considering the frame was well used.

A good project that we both enjoyed with a good result.

DSC_6768.jpg
 
Thats good times Rod, my son is watching me convert my dads MTB into a geared hub ebike, he doesn't know whats going on but he drops his toys just to watch me work on it. Pretty neat. A 5 year old shock should be fine, but if you adjust rebound or compression and don't notice any difference in compression and rising rates with the different settings, consider getting it revalved. Other than that, it will be 95% as good as something newer and more expensive.

Rick
 
Hi everybody!

Thank you guys for you're not lazy and post your efforts and ideas of what can be done using the fasor frame! (espesially to Rodney). It's realy very interesting.

Well... I finally received some shipments from chainreactioncycles.com and HK... and can start the assembling of my bike.

Here is the list of what I'm going to use:

Front
- Chosen Hub DA-4311B-M20 with 36 2.00mm spokes in Supra34 AlexRims, CrazyBob Tires 26'' 2.35'', Maxxis Freeride tube, 185mm DirtyDog rotor.
- Marzocchi 888 RCV (2012's build) 8''
- Hope Stealth M4 EVO brakes
- Chris King NoThreadset 1 1/8" Headset

Rear
- MAC 1000W 8T in DX32 Alexrim, 36 2.3mm spokes, Maxxis Hookworm 26'' 2.5'', Maxxis DownHill tube, 185mm DirtyDog rotor
- 7speed 13-28T Shimano freewheel
- Hope Stealth M4 EVO brakes
- Fox shocks dhx rc4 9.5"x3.0"

Electro
- 16s LiFePO4 BMS, 12 fet IRFB3077 Infineon Controller
- LiFePO4 53.2V 25.2Ah Battery
- V3.0 CycleAnalyst

As for the moment, I got a little problem:
The seatpost. It can be easely twisted round it's axis :(
(the seatcamp is curled almost up to a limit)
DSC00720.JPG

Do you know how this can be fixed?
 
Insider:
People have been cutting the bike so that the clamps get tight enough.

Rodney64 said:
C6260503-FBE1-4C40-9504-CCE0EC56C1FC-1455-000001280AC9D305.jpg


Korpin, photo of seat post. I cut the front to get the seat tight
 
Insider said:
Hi everybody!

Thank you guys for you're not lazy and post your efforts and ideas of what can be done using the fasor frame! (espesially to Rodney). It's realy very interesting.


Thanks very much Insider for the complement but please share your journey as it will help future ebike builds. I've learnt from this forum and not the Phasor thread and that what I like about this forum.
Well... I finally received some shipments from chainreactioncycles.com and HK... and can start the assembling of my bike.

Here is the list of what I'm going to use:

Front
- Chosen Hub DA-4311B-M20 with 36 2.00mm spokes in Supra34 AlexRims, CrazyBob Tires 26'' 2.35'', Maxxis Freeride tube, 185mm DirtyDog rotor.
- Marzocchi 888 RCV (2012's build) 8''
- Hope Stealth M4 EVO brakes
- Chris King NoThreadset 1 1/8" Headset

Rear
- MAC 1000W 8T in DX32 Alexrim, 36 2.3mm spokes, Maxxis Hookworm 26'' 2.5'', Maxxis DownHill tube, 185mm DirtyDog rotor
- 7speed 13-28T Shimano freewheel
- Hope Stealth M4 EVO brakes
- Fox shocks dhx rc4 9.5"x3.0"

Electro
- 16s LiFePO4 BMS, 12 fet IRFB30 Infineon Controller
- LiFePO4 53.2V 25.2Ah Battery
- V3.0 CycleAnalyst

As for the moment, I got a little problem:
The seatpost. It can be easely twisted round it's axis :(
(the seatcamp is curled almost up to a limit)


Do you know how this can be fixed?

Thanks very much Insider for the complement but please share your journey as it will help future ebike builds. I've learnt from this forum and not the Phasor thread since I was the first to start posting and thats what I like about this forum.


It takes time to post your positives and negatives but everytime that you do will be helping another member either not make the same mistake.
 
Insider said:
As for the moment, I got a little problem:
The seatpost. It can be easely twisted round it's axis :(
(the seatcamp is curled almost up to a limit)


Do you know how this can be fixed?
TRY cutting a slot with grinder on rear of seat post tube worked for me!
 
Panals in carbon fiber look nice with this color!
20130503_211238[1].jpg

Quick update. Ordered up all my parts except for the crankset, rear freewheel and front wheel. The crankset and rear freewheel i plan to buy at my local shop while im there to have them install the headset. The front wheel I just dont know what to buy. all i know is i want a black hub and black rim, 26" and wide enough to fit atleast a 2.5" tire and not more than $250. Any suggestions?
I should have everything in my possession by the end of next week. :D im excited, its been a long wait for me 8)

List of Bike parts:
Fork: Fox 40 Kashima 2013
Rear shock: Fox rc4 9.5x3.0 500# Kashima
Headset: Chirs King steelset
Stem: Truativ Holzfeller
Handlebars: Truvativ Aka Ice grey
Carbon fiber shimms: 2x 10mm 2x 5mm
Formula 200mm hydraulic front brake
Front wheel: ?????

List of electric parts:
Batteries: 24s4p of 4S hardcase packs 100v20ah
Controller: 18fet at 80amps. But looking to buy a new one.
Motor: Clyte 5403 (speed winding) laced to a 26" rim ( will be going to a 24" soon)
Cycle Analyst

:D :mrgreen:
 
That is a beautiful front wheel Rod. VC knows how to build wheels. I am going to do the same with the 19 up front. I like that. Going to email Abraham and asked him about the spoke length.

Rick
 
is it possible to install a longer shock or adapter to bring the swing arm down more on the back. I don't know how much travel is available but the phasors look low in the back. though I don't know how it will change the handling.
 
Bill Nye the science guy said:
is it possible to install a longer shock or adapter to bring the swing arm down more on the back. I don't know how much travel is available but the phasors look low in the back. though I don't know how it will change the handling.

Bill, it is possible. With the smaller wheel on back and he 26 up front, that would be the ideal thing to do to keep the steeering/handling characteristics the same. But, Rod will be putting a 17x1.4 up front very soon, so that wont be neccessary. To answer you question, if the front wheel and rear wheel were the same size, and the shock length was increased which also reflected in an incease in the rider static sag, the bike would turn quicker and feel more "twitchy" at speed, but would feel less stable going straight and down hill. There is a lot more going on than what my explanation tells but I like to keep things in laymen's terms so everyone understands the gist of what I am saying.

Rick
 
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