E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[arcticfly]

So I could get a simple throttle of any kind exept a resistor throttle?

 

[Rix]

So I could get a simple throttle of any kind exept a resistor throttle?

Yah, if I understand Kepler correctly, sounds like any standard Hall Effect Throttle should be compatible. Kepler, do I understand correctly?

 

[Kepler]

Yes, thais correct. Only trap is that some after market throttles have a different pin out to the stock Crystalite throttle. Even color coding of the wiring changes from throttle to throttle. However, typical color coding is is +5V red, Signal out, green, and common black.

Easiest thing is to just buy a Cystalite throttle and know the pinouts are correct.

If you want to test the throttle and work out the correct pinout, get one of these.http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=87 Must have tool for the DIY ebiker.

 

[arcticfly]

I had a throttle for a GNG kit I have in the garage, so i fitted that, and it works well. At least I can ride while I wait for the new crystalyte throttle. Thank you for your help! Funny though I can only get to 65 kph.

 

[Rix]

Yes, thais correct. Only trap is that some after market throttles have a different pin out to the stock Crystalite throttle. Even color coding of the wiring changes from throttle to throttle. However, typical color coding is is +5V red, Signal out, green, and common black.

Easiest thing is to just buy a Cystalite throttle and know the pinouts are correct.

If you want to test the throttle and work out the correct pinout, get one of these.http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=41&product_id=87 Must have tool for the DIY ebiker.

Thanks again for breaking that down John, my next purchase from em3ev will include one of those throttle testers.

Rick

 

[proper159]

Well I'm learning about all of the nuances of high mileage rides. Yesterday I got my tires rotated and the mechanic was fine tuning the chain tension with the back screw which is parallel to the chain. It fell out on my second part of my ride today and the other one was loose. Glad I had a wrench with me. I assume this part is specific to Stealth or can I put another type screw in there?[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397329446314.jpg[/attachment]

No your screw didn't fall off, your post broke with the nut attached. That post is welded onto the axle torque block. Get a hold of Stealth, they will send you a new one. I call it the "Axle Block Torque arm" but the ours friend down under just call it a torque arm. Tell Stealth that and they will know what you are talking about. Its fairly important piece of hardware. Because we are limited how tight we can tighten the axle nuts, the function of the torque block is critical for not allowing your axle to slide forward under acceleration in bumpy conditions, the chain keeps it from sliding backwards during braking.

Rick

About to order the pair from Stealth...pretty pricey $100 for the set but I guess I need them.

 

[biknut]

About to order the pair from Stealth...pretty pricey $100 for the set but I guess I need them.

Wow a hundred bucks. That's crap. Just buy some M6 bolts and have them welded onto the plate, and call it good. They're really just chain adjusters, once the axle is tightened they really don't do anything.

 

[Allex]

wtf is wrong with their pricing.
If I buy a similar "Axle Block Torque arm" to a Ducati it will cost less. :[

 

[arcticfly]

They do seem to be quite greedy... I asked about a new CA and they wanted 250 dollars, I asked bikes ca if they had the small CA3 for Stealth bikes, and he had one left. Charged me 120 CAD.

I have just installed the new CA and am wondering what settings to use. I want the max power the controller can take. Do I adjust rshunt? what to set the low cut of limit as? How many ams can I pull? Different phase amps? I want to give it hell

 

[Allex]

Adjusting RSshunt. Copy the value from your old one if its possible. Otherwise you have to use a good clamp meter to adjust it.
LVC, set it at 70V
AMPS, set it at 65.
Now, if your rshunt is wrong then the amps reading will also be wrong. So if you set amps at 65 and have wrong shunt value than when you are out in the woods and see 65Amps output this could really be something else.
You can only limit things with CA, not boost them up. You can set 100Amps and 10000Watts in the CA, you will not get a faster bike with that. This is because the controller itself is programmed with certain values. So if you really want to change Battery Amps/phase Amps and so on - you have to reprogram the controller itself.
Sure you can give it a hell with new/reprogrammed controllers and so on. But one must always be careful and see to the limitation of the motor itself. If you go past 5000W you can easily overheat it (the windings) if pushed for long. This can cause a short out of the winding's and demagnetization of the magnets = Ending up buying a new motor.

 

[arcticfly]

Was out on a test ride. Set the CA to factory settings. When I turn the throttle to max it start accelerating but then it cuts back and goes to a lower setting. I try a few times and see that the CA reads Ampere to about 80 when it cuts back. I have set the max A to 60. What could this be?

 

[Allex]

Was out on a test ride. Set the CA to factory settings. When I turn the throttle to max it start accelerating but then it cuts back and goes to a lower setting. I try a few times and see that the CA reads Ampere to about 80 when it cuts back. I have set the max A to 60. What could this be?

Your RShunt is to low. CA cuts back because the limit of 60A you set. Small values do the trick. Example from 1,15 to 1,18.
At full throttle the CA should show around 65Amps, when it does then your shunt should be correct.

 

[arcticfly]

You saved the easter Allex! I had to go all the way up to 1.3

Now, back to looking for a cheap source for a shinko tire for my newly built 19" prowheel rim and 5405 motor. They are so expencive to send from the states.

 

[proper159]

About to order the pair from Stealth...pretty pricey $100 for the set but I guess I need them.

Wow a hundred bucks. That's crap. Just buy some M6 bolts and have them welded onto the plate, and call it good. They're really just chain adjusters, once the axle is tightened they really don't do anything.

Don't I need them for safety? I.e. keeps the main axel in place when accelerating and breaking? I have the brake side still in tact, just missing the right side.

 

[pendragon8000]

CLARIFY? do the stealth drop outs clamp? i could say more but i wait for a response.

 

[Allex]

Stealth has Actually tripple safeties for the axle.
First one clamps on the Axle itself,
Second, you slide the wheel with that clamp to the dropouts. Dropouts then hold the clamp and the axle in place and keeps them from rotating.
Third, you add the axle-chain-tensioners.

Voltaire is right, you can use your old, broken one and weld new thread on it, saving 100 Bucks.

 

[proper159]

Stealth has Actually tripple safeties for the axle.
First one clamps on the Axle itself,
Second, you slide the wheel with that clamp to the dropouts. Dropouts then hold the clamp and the axle in place and keeps them from rotating.
Third, you add the axle-chain-tensioners.

Voltaire is right, you can use your old, broken one and weld new thread on it, saving 100 Bucks.

Yeah lost one of the screws including plates. I'll see if the axel moves at all on my ride to downtown today. There is a section where there are 20 stop signs and it's stop and go every 100 m. A lot of torque every time I regen brake.

 

[Rix]

Well I'm learning about all of the nuances of high mileage rides. Yesterday I got my tires rotated and the mechanic was fine tuning the chain tension with the back screw which is parallel to the chain. It fell out on my second part of my ride today and the other one was loose. Glad I had a wrench with me. I assume this part is specific to Stealth or can I put another type screw in there?[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397329446314.jpg[/attachment]

No your screw didn't fall off, your post broke with the nut attached. That post is welded onto the axle torque block. Get a hold of Stealth, they will send you a new one. I call it the "Axle Block Torque arm" but the ours friend down under just call it a torque arm. Tell Stealth that and they will know what you are talking about. Its fairly important piece of hardware. Because we are limited how tight we can tighten the axle nuts, the function of the torque block is critical for not allowing your axle to slide forward under acceleration in bumpy conditions, the chain keeps it from sliding backwards during braking.

Rick

About to order the pair from Stealth...pretty pricey $100 for the set but I guess I need them.

That does not sound right. About a year ago, I ordered mine and the new pinch torque arm from Stealth and if I remember correctly, I think I paid 65 bucks for all including air shipping from Australia. I did order other parts as well, brake pads for the Gators, stuff like that. Is it 100 bucks with expidited shipping? I know from experience that shipping from over seas to the US can cost much more than the parts price. For example, my 162mm axle form Crystalyte, 30 bucks for the part, 40 for shipping. Same with some chargers and other stuff I am looking at.

 

[biknut]

Yeah lost one of the screws including plates. I'll see if the axel moves at all on my ride to downtown today. There is a section where there are 20 stop signs and it's stop and go every 100 m. A lot of torque every time I regen brake.

If you lost one of the plates that's different. That means the axle bolt had to fall off too. The plate is referred to as a torque arm, like Rick said. If you lost one you'll have to get a new one. Don't try to ride without it, or you could end up ruining your swing arm.

Don't ever take your bike back to that shop, they cause more trouble than they're worth.

 

[proper159]

Yeah lost one of the screws including plates. I'll see if the axel moves at all on my ride to downtown today. There is a section where there are 20 stop signs and it's stop and go every 100 m. A lot of torque every time I regen brake.

If you lost one of the plates that's different. That means the axle bolt had to fall off too. The plate is referred to as a torque arm, like Rick said. If you lost one you'll have to get a new one. Don't try to ride without it, or you could end up ruining your swing arm.

Don't ever take your bike back to that shop, they cause more trouble than they're worth.

oh...been riding about 70 km...seems okay. I'm only missing one side.

 

[proper159]

Well I'm learning about all of the nuances of high mileage rides. Yesterday I got my tires rotated and the mechanic was fine tuning the chain tension with the back screw which is parallel to the chain. It fell out on my second part of my ride today and the other one was loose. Glad I had a wrench with me. I assume this part is specific to Stealth or can I put another type screw in there?[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397329446314.jpg[/attachment]

No your screw didn't fall off, your post broke with the nut attached. That post is welded onto the axle torque block. Get a hold of Stealth, they will send you a new one. I call it the "Axle Block Torque arm" but the ours friend down under just call it a torque arm. Tell Stealth that and they will know what you are talking about. Its fairly important piece of hardware. Because we are limited how tight we can tighten the axle nuts, the function of the torque block is critical for not allowing your axle to slide forward under acceleration in bumpy conditions, the chain keeps it from sliding backwards during braking.

Rick

About to order the pair from Stealth...pretty pricey $100 for the set but I guess I need them.

That does not sound right. About a year ago, I ordered mine and the new pinch torque arm from Stealth and if I remember correctly, I think I paid 65 bucks for all including air shipping from Australia. I did order other parts as well, brake pads for the Gators, stuff like that. Is it 100 bucks with expidited shipping? I know from experience that shipping from over seas to the US can cost much more than the parts price. For example, my 162mm axle form Crystalyte, 30 bucks for the part, 40 for shipping. Same with some chargers and other stuff I am looking at.

Yeah I'll have to buck down and pay for it. I'm putting in a lot of mileage everyday...60 to 100 km with lots of rough terrain.

 

[pendragon8000]

Stealth has Actually tripple safeties for the axle.
First one clamps on the Axle itself,
Second, you slide the wheel with that clamp to the dropouts. Dropouts then hold the clamp and the axle in place and keeps them from rotating.
Third, you add the axle-chain-tensioners.
.

thanks for explaining . just to clarify its like a bmx axle position / chain tensioner, a clamping torque arm/dropout and then the axle nut? sounds like im missing something.

 

[proper159]

Well...It's pretty crucial to have both torque arms, even though I'm missing one as most of you guys have told me. The entire axle shifts and the larger bolt nuts on both sides begin to loosen. I noticed this as I checked to see if the one toque arm was loose, and it was (have to tighten it after every ride). The wheel was off to a slight angle but I aligned it again so the wheel was center. I think the unstable nature of the wheel towards the end of a 45 km ride decreases my battery life. I ran out of power at 43 km and desperately looked for an outlet. Finally found one at a gas station. On average what are your AH per 10 km? Today I was around 4.3 AH per 10 km...battery died at 18.67 AH.

Regarding the wheel bolts, do they loosen because one side is missing a torque arm and the stress begins to affect the bolts...or is this another issue that will persist even though I'm getting a replacement torque arm?
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397850318286.jpg[/attachment]

 

[Allex]

What wh/km shows CA? This value should be around 27-37wh/km But it is impossible to tell really, because it all depends on your driving and the terrain.
What peak Amps do you see at WOT? I'm asking because you get over 18Ah when your battery dies. You should see less. Your CA probably have wrong shunt value and you need to tune that in. Otherwise your readings will be totally off.


Pendragon, I let Rix or someone else explain more detailed this

 

[proper159]

What wh/km shows CA? This value should be around 27-37wh/km But it is impossible to tell really, because it all depends on your driving and the terrain.
What peak Amps do you see at WOT? I'm asking because you get over 18Ah when your battery dies. You should see less. Your CA probably have wrong shunt value and you need to tune that in. Otherwise your readings will be totally off.


Pendragon, I let Rix or someone else explain more detailed this

Not sure exactly, I'll have to check tonight when I ride cross town. I thought the Stealth manual said once you hit 18 ah it's time to head home.