Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
You can have a crowd with 500 bikes, and you'll have 500 guys all thinking, "My bike looks best" LOL.
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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proper159
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2013
- Messages
- 714
Been a while fellas since I've posted. Rode all winter with an MX wheel setup with 5404. No problems until the motor started to have issues at the beginning of spring. Repainted the Bomber with a rust check based paint, rode again for about 200 km and the screws on my rotor came loose and sliced through my wires but yanked something in the motor. Opened it up and found some bad corrosion. Going back to my stock rim and motor after getting the spokes fixed while I wait for another MX wheel setup. I also broke my 3rd seat frame (4th bike seat, rails end up breaking) but managed to have my welder reinforce the broken seat welds with a piece of steel.
Had a tumor removed from my head and rode my Mando Footloose while my head healed up. My Fox MX helmet kept rubbing my wound so a bit of time and more patience in fixing my Bomber has been granted.
My friend wants to reroute my hall sensor and phase wires into the body of the stealth above the battery via the brake cable opening. Is this a good idea to extend the wires with the same guage type wires and a waterproof hal sensor cable connector I bought from China?
Had a tumor removed from my head and rode my Mando Footloose while my head healed up. My Fox MX helmet kept rubbing my wound so a bit of time and more patience in fixing my Bomber has been granted.
My friend wants to reroute my hall sensor and phase wires into the body of the stealth above the battery via the brake cable opening. Is this a good idea to extend the wires with the same guage type wires and a waterproof hal sensor cable connector I bought from China?
Emmett
10 kW
Oh dear. Hope your op went well!
My Fighter also had the problem with the rear brake rotor bolts coming loose when new. No wire damage. Just chewed out the M4 threads in my hub. I solved it by tapping M5 threads and used Loctite on the new M5 bolts, and also Loctited the front M4 bolts so it'll never happen again. I Loctited all my side panel bolts too.
If you seal the hub covers with sikaflex and fill the hub with 110ml of oil, then corrosion and overheating no more!
I love my 19" MC rear wheel setup with trials tire! Thanks Rix. I run 18 PSI in it with Tubliss. I can blitz over all sorts of sharp rocks and crap. Never a flat. Never a rim dent. Superb amounts of grip going up tricky stuff, including wet rocks. So much damn water around lately. The rear tire provides significant suspension so the unsprung weight of the hub is far less detrimental. Very planted around bumpy corners. My shock has adjustable reb, high and low speed comp and bottom out control. 500 lbs/in spring is perfect for 74Kg me. I've tried a 450 and 550.
I also have a better seat. Super cushy but light. With my shock and forks, it's a dream ride. I've done a few rides this week. I do need to change front tires according to the conditions. Razorback much better when the dirt is soft.
I've trimmed 10mm off each bar end too. Makes a huge difference through the tight trees.
My Fighter also had the problem with the rear brake rotor bolts coming loose when new. No wire damage. Just chewed out the M4 threads in my hub. I solved it by tapping M5 threads and used Loctite on the new M5 bolts, and also Loctited the front M4 bolts so it'll never happen again. I Loctited all my side panel bolts too.
If you seal the hub covers with sikaflex and fill the hub with 110ml of oil, then corrosion and overheating no more!
I love my 19" MC rear wheel setup with trials tire! Thanks Rix. I run 18 PSI in it with Tubliss. I can blitz over all sorts of sharp rocks and crap. Never a flat. Never a rim dent. Superb amounts of grip going up tricky stuff, including wet rocks. So much damn water around lately. The rear tire provides significant suspension so the unsprung weight of the hub is far less detrimental. Very planted around bumpy corners. My shock has adjustable reb, high and low speed comp and bottom out control. 500 lbs/in spring is perfect for 74Kg me. I've tried a 450 and 550.
I also have a better seat. Super cushy but light. With my shock and forks, it's a dream ride. I've done a few rides this week. I do need to change front tires according to the conditions. Razorback much better when the dirt is soft.
I've trimmed 10mm off each bar end too. Makes a huge difference through the tight trees.
Rix
100 TW
proper159 said:
Damn, broke another seat frame. Just wondering are you sitting down when you jump or running your seat post high? I think I asked you this before, but don't remember what your answer was. As far as your corrosion problem goes, either oil cool like Emmett did or drill out the side covers for venting and coat your stator and magnets with T9 Boeshield. My 5404 is 3 years old now, Hyena had it submerged in a creek crossing a couple of years back where water flowed into the vent holes. But it didn't rust because the heat from the motor allowed the water and condensation to evaporate.
Rix
100 TW
Emmett said:
Glad you like the MC rear Emmett. Over the years, I probably helped 20+people or more with MC rim conversions. I have yet to hear of some one who converted to a MC rim and tire go back to a MTB rim and tire. I definitely wasn't the first to convert a ebikes hub motors to run MC rims and tires, but coincidently when I started writing about it, started seeing lots of interest from all over ES. One of the biggest advantages folks don't realize running MC tires isn't so much the traction and increase in reliability, but also the economic factor. The life span of even the junkiest MC tire is conservatively 3 times longer than the best and toughest MTB tires. From personal experience, I was getting right at 300 miles per tire on the rear when I ran my 24x3 duro razorback. Of course I did get 1490 miles on the front. The SR 241 my dad is still running on my old Bomber has just over 3100 miles on it. I think it will make 3500 miles before being replaced, its tread is rounded and getting low in the middle now. But all in all, for a slight weight penalty, MC tires are way more economical then MTB tires.
Rix
100 TW
BCTECH said:Rix said:
Good point.
Will the MC front wheel give a lot better traction? like much more or a small different compare with MTB front wheel assuming compare with similar size tire
Thanks BCTech, yah, a front MC wheel does give way more traction and confidence over a MTB front. The issue that I had, and debated with Offroader on the Raptor thread was, is the additional weight penalty on the front worth the increased traction and tire performance? Putting it in terms that can be understood easily, one of the reasons we can get away with running a MC tire on the rear and the weight increase being hardly noticeable, is what I coined as "percentage weight increase". For example, the 54xx with a 19x1.4 rim, running the 2.75-19 SR241 comes in at 41 pounds. The 54xx running the stock 24" OEM Rim, with a Duro razorback, 21" MC tube, Mr Tuffy's biggest tire liner, and 4oz of green slime come in at 38 pounds. So we are seeing a 4 pound increase on the rear with MC set up. This is just over a 10% total weight increase on the rear. Not a big deal on bikes that weigh between 80 and 120 pounds. Now take the stock front wheel with rotor, mr tuffy tire liner, and 4 oz of slime, your wheel your total wheel weighs almost 9 pounds, running the SR241 with a light mc tube, the wheel weighs over 13 pounds. So on the front, that is a around a 50% increase in weight, and yes, you feel it. The thing I noticed the most was, the bikes just handler better and feel heavier riding around with a MC wheel on the front. Its not a bad thing, but if you are used to the flogability of MTB, you wont like the MC wheel on the front. As far as traction goes, it king running MC wheel on the front. The question to ponder is, is the weight worth the increased traction and durability? Everybody is different. I like the MC wheel on the front, but I also like the lighter weight of the MTB wheel tire combo, that said, my next build will be running a Marzocchi hub with a 19x1.4 rim on the front along with an 18x1.4 rim laced to a MXUS on the rear. I will report the my findings on the Flux thread later this year.
stevebills
100 W
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2011
- Messages
- 249
I have had 2 puntures on the rear of my bomber in 3 months and is there a better way to cure this or do i need a mc wheel? :?
Hyena
10 GW
Yep that's me, always contributing valuable feedback to the community. Better still if I'm putting other peoples bikes on the line :lol:Rix said:
Justin from Grin did some thorough testing about water getting into motors a few years back and found that it was water worming its way in there and then getting trapped that was the culprit. Having even a small hole to let the steam out seems to be the way to go. Or big holes for move significant air cooling.
+1 on the headscratching on how you're breaking so many seats proper! Good call on taking it easy while you heal up, the last thing you need is a bust up while still recovering. The up side is your bike will feel that much more powerful after a bit period of time off. This is what I found anyway after being sick and not riding for a several months. It felt crazy fast and dangerous and I was reluctant to go more than half throttle. Basically the same stuff that any noobs who ride my bikes say. That only lasted 2 days though, then I was back to racing around like a maniac with full throttle launches off the line :lol:
Emmett
10 kW
Well you can try a MC UHD tube, pump it up to 35 PSI, but your rear end will unfortunately skitter around and handle pretty bad. You could maybe try 30 PSI and put some green slim in the tube for some optimistic "insurance".stevebills said:
Failing that you need a 1.6" wide MC rim, with trials tire. The best inflation system is Tubliss. Put 18 PSI in the tire, and tune a good shock and it's like riding on a magic carpet. The VRM021 tires works fine on my fighter, but on a Bomber I'd go the wider SR241 for sure.
With that setup, the stuff I can ride across now is awesome. I smash over big square edge rocks regularly at a relatively fast pace of 25 to 45km/h. Until I knew what my MC setup could take, I used to cringe, often being committed to some line choice. But now I don't care. I try to go around such rocks of course, but when something catches me out, it's no big deal. Often it's repeat large rocks, and if I shift focus away from up the track to think about what's immediately in front on me, then I'm going for a massive doozey. With a MTB setup the same hits would mutilate the entire rim and I'd have to carry the bike home. That's if I was able to walk.
I've not yet had a front puncture. I do use a heavier 19" MC tube in the 24 MTB tire. That has to help. I'll try a 21 MC tube next time. You can shift your body weight to reduce the impacts on the front wheel. Also fork function makes a huge difference to front tire/rim loads. If your fork damping is progressive, then your wheel can quickly travel up over the sharp bump/rock, but without blowing through too much stroke travel.
Emmett
10 kW
I just had an awesome ride. It's going to rain for the next few days and the bush is already quite wet and wont cope with much more water. So I feel like the beat the elements. So chuffed with myself. Such a good feeling. Man, my Fighter is awesome. The motor purrs too. I love that sound.
Who needs a mid-drive? I'm pretty fussy with any bike, and I struggle to fault my bike for how I use it.
This is my current wish list:
1. Shorter cranks. I just need to by some. Did once but forgot to get the correct offset.
2. A future controller and battery which will have more low down torque for climbing steep technical stuff.
3. A little more lateral rigidity in the frame so the bike tracks a little better over rough ground.
4. Some kind of "bash plate" protection under/below the front sprocket, so I can ride over big logs and know I can balance on top if I need to.
I already have these mods: Forks, shock, spring, rear MC wheel setup, seat, 3/4 width throttle, oil cooling, water proof motor, controller and main compartment, narrower bars, pedal that I like.
Who needs a mid-drive? I'm pretty fussy with any bike, and I struggle to fault my bike for how I use it.
This is my current wish list:
1. Shorter cranks. I just need to by some. Did once but forgot to get the correct offset.
2. A future controller and battery which will have more low down torque for climbing steep technical stuff.
3. A little more lateral rigidity in the frame so the bike tracks a little better over rough ground.
4. Some kind of "bash plate" protection under/below the front sprocket, so I can ride over big logs and know I can balance on top if I need to.
I already have these mods: Forks, shock, spring, rear MC wheel setup, seat, 3/4 width throttle, oil cooling, water proof motor, controller and main compartment, narrower bars, pedal that I like.
proper159
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2013
- Messages
- 714
Rix said:
Yep I stand up everything I can with the occasional...."crap that was a big hit".
I think it's the brutality of the winter along with my 40 lb backpack (I'm 200 lbs) and I pedal all the time which means lots of saddle time. The rails on all my seats break in the same place. The custom weld addition seems to be working...essentially a horse shoe U welded to the seat frame. I noticed a very slight dent in my frame on the top left side, but it might be from when it last broke.
Emmett described the beauty of having an MX wheel down to a T. I'm going to miss not getting flats and wearing down tires in 2 weeks as well as the pure confidence in the higher speeds.
Rix, not sure if drilling holes will be detrimental based on my conditions. Tons of salt is placed on the roads here during the winter. Granted, I have a kid on the way so maybe I'll do what Morati does, store my bike away!
I'm reading with much interest about the MC rear rim upgrade and in the future I may do it aswell but for the moment that is not on top of my do to list ...... I will show soon what I've been working on as the first thing to do for me.
So, this is what I'm currently riding on my Bomber (Felt Berm Master 24X3), this was yesterday in the middle of a short sunset ride in the wods near my home.
Then I bought off ebay a pair of new complete DH wheels with Sunrims Doubletrack rims (the same rim that Doctorbass has on his 5403 motor) that I'm going to mount on the Bomber along with a new pair of Halo Contra 24X3 off road tyres that at the end arrived too!
Look what's moulded on the Halo tyres:
So, this is what I'm currently riding on my Bomber (Felt Berm Master 24X3), this was yesterday in the middle of a short sunset ride in the wods near my home.
Then I bought off ebay a pair of new complete DH wheels with Sunrims Doubletrack rims (the same rim that Doctorbass has on his 5403 motor) that I'm going to mount on the Bomber along with a new pair of Halo Contra 24X3 off road tyres that at the end arrived too!
Look what's moulded on the Halo tyres:
stevebills
100 W
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2011
- Messages
- 249
I am wondering about insurance for my bomber and can u put it on house insurance or can anyone recconmend
the best place to use?
thx
steve
the best place to use?
thx
steve
Rix
100 TW
stevebills said:
My home owners policy cover everything in my garage up to 50k. That said, it only covers 3500 for firearms and up to 10,000 for bicycles.
Hyena
10 GW
Stealth bomber goes adaptto. Again
25ah li-ion pack (25R cells), adaptto max e and a high speed wind cro-clone in 19" moto rim.
I hit a top speed of 105km/hr and it had more in it. Not too shabby with chunky knobbies on it
[youtube]3qAo99yeiBg[/youtube]
25ah li-ion pack (25R cells), adaptto max e and a high speed wind cro-clone in 19" moto rim.
I hit a top speed of 105km/hr and it had more in it. Not too shabby with chunky knobbies on it
[youtube]3qAo99yeiBg[/youtube]
Rix
100 TW
Damn Jay, that modded Bomber shits-n-gits! It got up to speed way quick. The owner should be happy. What was the volt sag like under full load?
Rix
100 TW
bigbore said:
Hey Simone, how do you like the Bermasters?
proper159
10 kW
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2013
- Messages
- 714
Hyena said:
I definitely felt the speed exhilaration going from my Mando Footloose back to the Stealth. For the 200 km I rode with my brand new Fox V4 carbon helmet before the motor died on me...closest thing to heaven. Bike will be ready tomorrow with my stock motor. I dependon my Stealth big time because my mother is terminally ill and we're moving her tomorrow to the downtown area of Toronto. We have the absolutely worst traffic congestion in North America and the Pan Am games are coming. I'm 35 km away with my wife who is experiencing a high risk pregnancy so the Stealth allows me to bypass all of the horrible traffic. But the constant breakdowns makes me want to design a real ebike that can handle my environment. My mando allows me to combine the foldable ebike with transit but also suffers from its own downfalls, mostly BMS shutdowns.
Hyena
10 GW
Yeah mate, she scoots along now. And that was only with OVS set to 3!Rix said:
For offroading I'd rather a slower wind myself but as a cross over e-moto I think it's pretty good.
I have another build in the works using the same motor and power but with a sabvoton instead of the adaptto so I'll be interested to compare. That will be on my own bike as a demo for my upcoming street registered e-moto build. I'll make sure I set up the camera properly this time and allow a full throttle launch. Leaning forward over the bars to keep the wheel down and trying to keep the camera on the screen when you're holding it between your teeth is a bit tough :lol:
I'm not 100% sure on the voltage sag, the adaptto numbers are pretty small and my eyes aren't that good to read em at that speed. I'll review the raw footage tonight and see if I can make it out any clearer. It was programmed for 140A though, which with a 25ah battery is just over 5C. Given they're rated for 10C it shouldn't have been an issue. I do recall seeing the peak stats were 11.9kw so with the programmed current limit that suggests the voltage only dipped down to ~85v at full stick which is pretty respectable. I only charged to 87.5v too (4.16v/cell) so all the better.
Rix said:
I'm liking them very much but I had Maxxis Holy Roller before that I found very bad tyres for off road use. Also my first impression is that Felt Berm Master are a very good quality tyres also better than Halo Contras. Yesterday I ordered the spokes from Holmes Hobbies (thanks to your advice) to mount the new Doubletrack rims and when I will be ready I will mount the Contras front & rear so I will see what is the better.
Allex
100 MW
Great stuff Jay.
How does the motor sound comparing to the Sabvoton controller?
How does the motor sound comparing to the Sabvoton controller?
Hyena
10 GW
Hard to distinguish anything over the noise of the knobbys - it's the predominant sound. I have an identical wheel here for the next build so I will be able to more directly compare then. Not side by side though, the bomber is now on its way over to Perth.
The sabvoton and TC80 combo on my raptor is dead silent though - when you ease the power on to roll away from a stop it's as if you're pointed down a hill and just let the brakes off - zero noise or vibration. Not that there's much noise or roughness in the stock stealth or any non-sine controllers, but back to back it's like they have a card in the spokes in comparison. haha
The sabvoton and TC80 combo on my raptor is dead silent though - when you ease the power on to roll away from a stop it's as if you're pointed down a hill and just let the brakes off - zero noise or vibration. Not that there's much noise or roughness in the stock stealth or any non-sine controllers, but back to back it's like they have a card in the spokes in comparison. haha
