E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Cowardlyduck]

So I've been thinking about getting a new rear shock for my Fighter.
Ever since I put the 200mm DNM on the front, I keep pedal striking when cornering hard. Yeah I know there's a technique keeping the inside pedal high, and I already do that. The problems have only started since I switched to the DNM, so I can only conclude that the change in geometry is not compatible with my pedal and cornering style.
Anyway, what does everyone think of this shock for the Fighter:
http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/dnm-mountain-downhill-bike-rear-shock-220mm-or-190/BURNER-RCP2

I don't really want to spend any more than that.
What length would you recommend? I'm thinking 220mm, but it also comes in 210 and 240mm, so not sure if I should go for one of those.
I don't need much lift in the rear...probably only 15-20mm would be enough, but I'm not sure on the length of the current (original DNM RCL-8) shock. It was 165-190mm, but I don't know what Stealth put on the stock Fighters around the period I bought mine 2011-1012.

Cheers

 

[kiwiev]

Go for it mate I have the 210 on the white ecross and the 240 on the black can't tell much difference between them

Cheers Kiwi

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Go for it mate I have the 210 on the white ecross and the 240 on the black can't tell much difference between them

Cheers Kiwi

Thanks mate.
I just want to be sure it will fit the Fighter before I order, especially as I'm not sure what the current shocks length is.
Also, although it looks compatible, does anyone know for sure if the eyelets will fit? Are the eyelets on all these rear shocks the same?

Cheers

 

[Hyena]

Emmett, that sounds good. Give me a shout when you're ready.
Rix, no doubt I won't be able to keep up with Emmett! I set my suspension overly soft these days to cut my spine some slack. Likewise for the same reason my riding style is otherwise such that I'm not riding hard enough to push standard suspension to it's limits

Ducky, you should be able to measure the shock length off your own bike if you throw a rope around a beam or something and lift it up by the seat. That will unload the shock so you can measure the length. FYI, I had a 220mm fox on my old fighter which was a similar vintage to yours and it was good. The 400lb was actually a bit too soft for me so if you're still heavier than me the 550lb one cycling deal stock should be about perfect. If you dont want to spend any more money than the DNM then that is your only option as shocks only get more expensive from there. It may not drop straight in but you'll only need spacers or washers to make up the difference. You can use your existing shock bolts (they're likely M8, I"ll check when I get home)

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Ducky, you should be able to measure the shock length off your own bike if you throw a rope around a beam or something and lift it up by the seat. That will unload the shock so you can measure the length. FYI, I had a 220mm fox on my old fighter which was a similar vintage to yours and it was good. The 400lb was actually a bit too soft for me so if you're still heavier than me the 550lb one cycling deal stock should be about perfect. If you dont want to spend any more money than the DNM then that is your only option as shocks only get more expensive from there. It may not drop straight in but you'll only need spacers or washers to make up the difference. You can use your existing shock bolts (they're likely M8, I"ll check when I get home)

Thanks Jay. Exactly the details I was after.
I think I'll go with the 220mm then.

Thanks again!

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

Emmet, Adaptto can actually be Controller+BMS+charging so basically it takes care of everything on the bike. So you can see individual cell status on the screen or charge status - how much minutes untill fully charged state and how much you can travel in miles on a given charge state. So kind like having a Tesla with its big information screen
RTL, 5404-5403 will work but will work very badly performance wise on newer firmwares. I recommend you flashing back to 7b
When I tried that motor on new firmware it felt like going from 10kW bike to a slow 5kW bike

As for settings, see 0:20 here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmuKBPBY67w
Try with those and then tune back and forth for best results

I tried the settings of yours there- MUCH cooler temps. like30-40C where it was 60-80 before.
the autodetect settings were way off.

the pwr timing setting however was a little high for me.
it caused the bike to pulse on/off in acceleration.
i knew straight away cuase its the same feeling as when i set it too high on my other bike.
dropped it back and all is good.
maybe its a little dfferent cause its a 5404, not 5304?

thanks heaps
RTL

 

[Jimboyr6]

Thanks Jimboyr6,

It is not a severe cut-out, just a minor surge, almost pulsing, but slower period. CA is set to factory spec, have not changed it, will the display indicate a LVC if this is occuring? What would be the easiest way to detect a dodgy cell if that was causing the problem? The bike has not recently been wet, and I recently attended to the connections under the bike.

JB

Not 100% but it could b
Turn bike on hold left button down once in setting, scroll through untill u see ,low volt limit,
To check each cell volts u need to get to BMS plugs ontop of battery.
But ur not getting bms shut down?,so unless ur lvc is high could b something else

 

[Stealth_Rider]

I've upgraded the gearing on my 2011 Bomber (#065) for much better street riding.

Originally came 22T-16T. Then I went to 22T-13T with a custom built freewheel.
http://www.fareinc.com/Bomber_Kirk-065/13T_short/

Now at 25T-13T with the addition of the QMS 25T sprocket. For riding on the street I can now easily keep up pedal power input (not much but hey any helps) to the bike at high speed.

Also changed my Vboxx because the old one had excessive output shaft play resulting in chain tension that varied from extremely tight to extremely loose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrHqBlruiOg
New Vboxx play is zero:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NtHbFzGLq1c

A few more pics are in the gallery url in my signature.

Now corresponding with Stealth on getting my old Vboxx rebuilt.

Jim

 

[Jimboyr6]

Nice work
I the vid showing sprocket play,
Look to me like just movement in the sprocket,mine was abit like that, take the allen key out put washer behind it job done.

 

[Allex]

Emmet, Adaptto can actually be Controller+BMS+charging so basically it takes care of everything on the bike. So you can see individual cell status on the screen or charge status - how much minutes untill fully charged state and how much you can travel in miles on a given charge state. So kind like having a Tesla with its big information screen
RTL, 5404-5403 will work but will work very badly performance wise on newer firmwares. I recommend you flashing back to 7b
When I tried that motor on new firmware it felt like going from 10kW bike to a slow 5kW bike

As for settings, see 0:20 here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmuKBPBY67w
Try with those and then tune back and forth for best results

I tried the settings of yours there- MUCH cooler temps. like30-40C where it was 60-80 before.
the autodetect settings were way off.

the pwr timing setting however was a little high for me.
it caused the bike to pulse on/off in acceleration.
i knew straight away cuase its the same feeling as when i set it too high on my other bike.
dropped it back and all is good.
maybe its a little dfferent cause its a 5404, not 5304?

thanks heaps
RTL

Good to hear, those values were actually not that optimal when I made the video, after a while a found better, Ind 650 PWR 2.13
Also changed hall angle to -4
All those values are very individual and can be a bit different from motor to motor. Especially if they are 3,4 or 5 turn.
SO yeah if your PWR is to high the motor will pulsate.
Best is to tune it manually!

 

[ridethelightning]

Emmet, Adaptto can actually be Controller+BMS+charging so basically it takes care of everything on the bike. So you can see individual cell status on the screen or charge status - how much minutes untill fully charged state and how much you can travel in miles on a given charge state. So kind like having a Tesla with its big information screen
RTL, 5404-5403 will work but will work very badly performance wise on newer firmwares. I recommend you flashing back to 7b
When I tried that motor on new firmware it felt like going from 10kW bike to a slow 5kW bike

As for settings, see 0:20 here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmuKBPBY67w
Try with those and then tune back and forth for best results

I tried the settings of yours there- MUCH cooler temps. like30-40C where it was 60-80 before.
the autodetect settings were way off.

the pwr timing setting however was a little high for me.
it caused the bike to pulse on/off in acceleration.
i knew straight away cuase its the same feeling as when i set it too high on my other bike.
dropped it back and all is good.
maybe its a little dfferent cause its a 5404, not 5304?

thanks heaps
RTL

Good to hear, those values were actually not that optimal when I made the video, after a while a found better, Ind 650 PWR 2.13
Also changed hall angle to -4
All those values are very individual and can be a bit different from motor to motor. Especially if they are 3,4 or 5 turn.
SO yeah if your PWR is to high the motor will pulsate.
Best is to tune it manually!

awesome info, ill keep tuning it and see if i get some improvements.
im kind of happy with the way it is, cause now, after a really steep ,long hill climb, im getting like ~55-60C. with the old settings, that would have been near or over 100C.

I've upgraded the gearing on my 2011 Bomber (#065) for much better street riding.

Originally came 22T-16T. Then I went to 22T-13T with a custom built freewheel.
http://www.fareinc.com/Bomber_Kirk-065/13T_short/

Now at 25T-13T with the addition of the QMS 25T sprocket. For riding on the street I can now easily keep up pedal power input (not much but hey any helps) to the bike at high speed.
rack gives that instant commuter/ A2b metro look! it actually looks semi-stealthy.

 

[Stealth_Rider]

rack gives that instant commuter/ A2b metro look! it actually looks semi-stealthy.

I'm completely ignored by the police but when I pass a slow moving delivery truck and he finally catches up to me they lean out the window and yell "What are you superman." LOL

Jim

 

[ridethelightning]

maybe time to get a suit then?

Funny, so far the cops just dont want to even acknowledge me, even though my bike is so obviously over the top.

I think they just wont do anything unless forced by some ridiculoso behaviour :lol:

 

[Sr.Agaporni]

Hi!

I am about to buy a used stealth bomber. The actual owner has nearly never used it and the battery has passed out. It is a mark I model, with x5406 motor, with upgraded front fork and brakes (8-piston gator brakes). As the owner hasn't got battery to test it and I can't travel with mine in the train (security reasons), can you give me advices on what should I check? What are the potential problems of this bike? I know this is a rock solid bike, even more in the mark I series, but any help would be greatly appreciated as I am going to put lot of money in this bike.

Thanks!

 

[Rix]

Hi!

I am about to buy a used stealth bomber. The actual owner has nearly never used it and the battery has passed out. It is a mark I model, with x5406 motor, with upgraded front fork and brakes (8-piston gator brakes). As the owner hasn't got battery to test it and I can't travel with mine in the train (security reasons), can you give me advices on what should I check? What are the potential problems of this bike? I know this is a rock solid bike, even more in the mark I series, but any help would be greatly appreciated as I am going to put lot of money in this bike.

Thanks!

Post a picture of the bike, along with the frame number and the motor with the aX5406. If its what I am thinking it is, your frame number will be in high 50s or less. Old school Bomber there. Back in the day, talking pre 2011, maybe even 2010, Stealth had motor called they coined the Stump Puller they were tying. I never did hear what the motor was, but the Top speed on their 24s Lifepo4 batts (87.4 V hot) was only 28MPH, this is consistent with what a 6 turn X5 motor would pull on say a 72 volt system.

 

[Sr.Agaporni]

Post a picture of the bike, along with the frame number and the motor with the aX5406. If its what I am thinking it is, your frame number will be in high 50s or less. Old school Bomber there. Back in the day, talking pre 2011, maybe even 2010, Stealth had motor called they coined the Stump Puller they were tying. I never did hear what the motor was, but the Top speed on their 24s Lifepo4 batts (87.4 V hot) was only 28MPH, this is consistent with what a 6 turn X5 motor would pull on say a 72 volt system.

I am afraid the actual owner is not an expert on ebikes, hard to clarify some specs on the bike, including top speed, torque, etc... Just said "this is not a bike, very dangerous, too fast for me". He had a problem with the battery in the very beginning, it was broken (reverse polarity charge) and never used the bike again. I won't post the exact serial number at the moment (confirmed with Stealth that is the right bike and the owner bought this legally, as it was registered and no one reported it was stolen) to avoid someone to interfere in my negotiation, hope you understand that.

So, the bike is oriented to torque with its actual configuration? It could be nice for my actual use, but would be nice to be sure about that. However, a 12.000€ (new) bike which can't run faster than 28mph seems not a bargain (my commuter can get that speed at 48V...). What would be a fair price for this bike? No battery in the deal, just the bike.

Here you have some updated photos. The tyres are supposed to be the originals, if this is true, the bike has very low usage.

 

[Rix]

Post a picture of the bike, along with the frame number and the motor with the aX5406. If its what I am thinking it is, your frame number will be in high 50s or less. Old school Bomber there. Back in the day, talking pre 2011, maybe even 2010, Stealth had motor called they coined the Stump Puller they were tying. I never did hear what the motor was, but the Top speed on their 24s Lifepo4 batts (87.4 V hot) was only 28MPH, this is consistent with what a 6 turn X5 motor would pull on say a 72 volt system.

I am afraid the actual owner is not an expert on ebikes, hard to clarify some specs on the bike, including top speed, torque, etc... Just said "this is not a bike, very dangerous, too fast for me". He had a problem with the battery in the very beginning, it was broken (reverse polarity charge) and never used the bike again. I won't post the exact serial number at the moment (confirmed with Stealth that is the right bike and the owner bought this legally, as it was registered and no one reported it was stolen) to avoid someone to interfere in my negotiation, hope you understand that.

So, the bike is oriented to torque with its actual configuration? It could be nice for my actual use, but would be nice to be sure about that. However, a 12.000€ (new) bike which can't run faster than 28mph seems not a bargain (my commuter can get that speed at 48V...). What would be a fair price for this bike? No battery in the deal, just the bike.

Here you have some updated photos. The tyres are supposed to be the originals, if this is true, the bike has very low usage.

[]

You got a rare bike, and that 5406, that's is a collectors motor, I can still get 5405s from Crystalyte and 5403 and 5404s all day long, but not a 5406. That was never a standard feature, the guy that ordered that bike had to specify that motor specifically. Also looking at that frame, its either super clean and low mileage like you said, or its been refinished, but that frame is the older headway cell battery box type and much much bigger than the current Bomber. My guess is 2010 and your serial number is probably in the 40s. You don't have to tell me the exact number, just tell me if I am close . I think you got a classic on your hand and I don't think its stolen. If it was stolen is was a long time ago.

 

[Sr.Agaporni]

You got a rare bike, and that 5406, that's is a collectors motor, I can still get 5405s from Crystalyte and 5403 and 5404s all day long, but not a 5406. That was never a standard feature, the guy that ordered that bike had to specify that motor specifically. Also looking at that frame, its either super clean and low mileage like you said, or its been refinished, but that frame is the older headway cell battery box type and much much bigger than the current Bomber. My guess is 2010 and your serial number is probably in the 40s. You don't have to tell me the exact number, just tell me if I am close . I think you got a classic on your hand and I don't think its stolen. If it was stolen is was a long time ago.

I have been researching about the x5406 and I have found nothing about it, only a couple of threads in this forum but without real useful information. The bike was just cleaned for some of the photos, it also helps a lot, but it feels as new. As I said, I checked with Stealth Electric Bikes and Theresa confirmed me it is not stolen, and the name of the registered owner is the man who is selling me this bike. The serial number is in the range of 15-30, so you were really close.

After your comments (thanks a lot!), my concerns are about the usability of the bike. I am after a bike "plug and play". My other bikes are all DIY and it keeps me touching that and this, so I need a bike ready to go when I have broken my outrunner one. Main use will be mountain riding, with DH and trails, both combined. Is it worth or better go for a Raptor based bike?

Also, if I have to upgrade any of the parts (maybe motor?) or controller.

 

[Rix]

Wow! its older than I thought, got to be 2009 then. If you wanted to turn that into a 53MPH (85km/H) machine, you could get a 5403 and 20S pack and you wouldn't have to change the controller. The MXUS 4t would be good for around 45PH as would a 5404. But that motor will be better for climbing hills and because of the 6 turn stator, it will put out more slow speed thrust and use much less amps doing it then any other motor you could put on it. Just the top speed will be low. 20S would probably get you 30-31 MPH because there would be less volt sag unlike the stock pack which sags a lot more resulting in a slower top speed.

 

[Rodney64]

Wow! its older than I thought, got to be 2009 then. If you wanted to turn that into a 53MPH (85km/H) machine, you could get a 5403 and 20S pack and you wouldn't have to change the controller. The MXUS 4t would be good for around 45PH as would a 5404. But that motor will be better for climbing hills and because of the 6 turn stator, it will put out more slow speed thrust and use much less amps doing it then any other motor you could put on it. Just the top speed will be low. 20S would probably get you 30-31 MPH because there would be less volt sag unlike the stock pack which sags a lot more resulting in a slower top speed.

I'd keep the motor go 22s pack with the adaptto controller max.e. Don't worry about upgrading the motor.

 

[Rix]

Wow! its older than I thought, got to be 2009 then. If you wanted to turn that into a 53MPH (85km/H) machine, you could get a 5403 and 20S pack and you wouldn't have to change the controller. The MXUS 4t would be good for around 45PH as would a 5404. But that motor will be better for climbing hills and because of the 6 turn stator, it will put out more slow speed thrust and use much less amps doing it then any other motor you could put on it. Just the top speed will be low. 20S would probably get you 30-31 MPH because there would be less volt sag unlike the stock pack which sags a lot more resulting in a slower top speed.

I'd keep the motor go 22s pack with the adaptto controller max.e. Don't worry about upgrading the motor.

That's good advice Rodney, and with OVS, that 5406 could break 40.

 

[Rodney64]

Wow! its older than I thought, got to be 2009 then. If you wanted to turn that into a 53MPH (85km/H) machine, you could get a 5403 and 20S pack and you wouldn't have to change the controller. The MXUS 4t would be good for around 45PH as would a 5404. But that motor will be better for climbing hills and because of the 6 turn stator, it will put out more slow speed thrust and use much less amps doing it then any other motor you could put on it. Just the top speed will be low. 20S would probably get you 30-31 MPH because there would be less volt sag unlike the stock pack which sags a lot more resulting in a slower top speed.

I'd keep the motor go 22s pack with the adaptto controller max.e. Don't worry about upgrading the motor.

That's good advice Rodney, and with OVS, that 5406 could break 40.

Yes depends on if it's hilly Rick anyway 40 is enough.

 

[Sr.Agaporni]

I'd keep the motor go 22s pack with the adaptto controller max.e. Don't worry about upgrading the motor.
That's good advice Rodney, and with OVS, that 5406 could break 40.
Yes depends on if it's hilly Rick anyway 40 is enough.

I already got a 24s 20ah LiFePo4 that i was planning to use with the bike. Upgrading to an Adaptto plus a new battery is not in my plan at the moment, but I will note it down for the future. I also got a Mxus 3000 v1 that I can use with the bike in case the 5406 has an excessive torque. Thanks for the tips, very helpful! However, what should I check before buying? I mean, any destacable weak point?

 

[Rix]

I'd keep the motor go 22s pack with the adaptto controller max.e. Don't worry about upgrading the motor.
That's good advice Rodney, and with OVS, that 5406 could break 40.
Yes depends on if it's hilly Rick anyway 40 is enough.

I already got a 24s 20ah LiFePo4 that i was planning to use with the bike. Upgrading to an Adaptto plus a new battery is not in my plan at the moment, but I will note it down for the future. I also got a Mxus 3000 v1 that I can use with the bike in case the 5406 has an excessive torque. Thanks for the tips, very helpful! However, what should I check before buying? I mean, any destacable weak point?

If you run 24s on that bike, get a controller with 4115 Fets, the stock controller is an 18 Fet unit using 4110 fets, and anything above 92 volts is a risk for fets to blow under load.

 

[Sr.Agaporni]

24s lifepo4 would be a max of 87 volts, but thanks for the info.