E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[bigbore]

Cromotor 4t will beat the shit out of 5403 I was doing drag race against another max-e bike with cromotor. It just vanished in front of my eyes, both had same settings, 110DC amps
And yeah, it had the same top speed. We both hit 110km/h during that race.

Just like Rick said Hyena had one in the works.

Christmas is coming and I need to find a good present to ask at Santa claus .... Cromotor for my Bomber could be the answer
What about the winding option 24*5T 650 RPM @ 72V with a Kv=9? What top speed should I expect? I guess with 5T it would accelerate faster, is it correct?

 

[Allex]

5t may be faster att the same current but less top speed. But you need to get one with most kopper fill then you can feed it with more amps->more torque with same heat result. This way you will have best of two worlds, great acceleration and great top speed.

Why do you want to change the motor, are you saying that 13kW of power on your bomber is not enough anymore?

 

[bigbore]

For flat roads my present setup is awesome but here in Italy we have some beautiful very steep trails where the 5403 reaches 120°C pretty fast.
So I guess, if I could have a motor with more torque I could climb and have less problems of overheated motor.
I don't know much about copper fill ... is not the same the winding 30*4T = 120 and 24*5T = 120?

Here it seems there should be an answer to my question but then I have to go around with a radiator in front of my Bomber .. and it would be more difficult make people believe that my e-bike is legal
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=71926#p1085905

Hi,

I have tested this Motor now +3000km with great results and want to show you some pics. from my new build with this MXUS 3000W WC version from Linas.

-really great stuff for our bigger hills, Alps, because no more temperature problems.

-here some pre info's from Linas:

-somehow missed this theme
-I use similar motors on my bikes for more than half year till now, just I make some modifications for them to withstand my power:
-I change phase wires to 8awg silicone wires;
-I add temp sensor;
-I add industrial varnish on windings (whole motor stator is immersed in varnish batch and than cooked at 120C);
-I change axles to custom made with M16 screws:


-little about comparing it with crown or cromo: mxus stator have less efficiency and heats little faster, also do not have aluminium stator, but it is lighter, cheaper and have possibility to add liquid cooling. for some customers I made bikes with cromo, but it is good just for first few km of hard drive, than it reaches 130c and cools down very slowly, this mxus motor heats even faster, but as it have liquid cooling it can take longer continuous power.



-axles are made with 2 side grooves, in one goes hall wires, in other goes pipes and hall/temp cable, axle diameter in that side is 30mm, so side cover is modified to fit bigger bearing ID-30, OD-42. Axles are pressed to standard stamped steel stator.

And also Doctorbass tells in that thread that motors with more turns heat faster. He has great experience in this area so it looks like I should choose the 30 * 4T

 

[sonnetg]

Hello proud Stealth ebike owners, I am looking for a 24" front wheel. Do you know a place where I can order a 24" wheel with 20mm DH hub? I am planning on building an ebike with 24" wheel base, but these wheels are extremely difficult to find. I was hoping since Stealth ebikes come with 24" Rims, maybe someone could refer me to a stealth bike dealer in US who could help me get the wheel and possible tires as well. I am planning to install Contra 24" x 3.0" tire both on front and back.

Thank you.

 

[Jimboyr6]

Look at these bad boys :lol:

 

[Jimboyr6]

Hey Allex,

Love your work on those batteries.

What is the the stats on the 27ah battery for the Bomber? Is it lighter than the stock battery? How would voltage sag compare to stock battery?

Thanks,

Eric

Id like to know this as well allex thanks

 

[Allex]

The weight is 9.1kg, so less than stock. Battery sag is also less.

 

[Emmett]

Once my BMS cuts off, I must remove a side panel and unplug and replug the main battery lead.

You actually don't need to do that.
If you get up enough speed (35kph+) you can hit regen and it will kick the BMS back over as it thinks it's charging. Works well and a trick I've used since 2012 now.

Thanks CD. I understand that trick. Problem is getting up to 35 or even 25km/h. Many places where mine cuts that's never going to happen. So I take an allen key and do a manual BMS reset.

 

[Emmett]

Emmet, Adaptto can actually be Controller+BMS+charging so basically it takes care of everything on the bike. So you can see individual cell status on the screen or charge status - how much minutes until fully charged state and how much you can travel in miles on a given charge state. So kind like having a Tesla with its big information screen

As for settings, see 0:20 here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmuKBPBY67w
Try with those and then tune back and forth for best results

Very interesting Allex. So if I buy a Mini-e with BMS, does that mean I have to integrate that BMS into a new battery, with the required wires going to the controller?

When I'm ready to upgrade I'll go see Jay in any case. But curious to learn.

BTW: The DC-1 has a low voltage mode to prevent BMS cutout, but mine never triggers soon enough, and as far as I'm aware the CD-1 does not allow me to configure any settings to control when 'V mode' kicks in.

 

[Emmett]

I know exactly how you damaged your schlumpf shift post. You didn't use a barrel adapter when you pulled you cranks off with the crank puller. See picture. That adapter goes over the shift shaft, then you screw your puller on and remove the crank.

Rix, yes, that's what I did. I made the required tool for the future. But it was too late, the damage was done. I left it in high speeds for the past few months. Today when I remove the axle caps, and pull the shift rod either way, the inside of my 2 speed crank system now seems to be stuck in the taller over drive gear. Might be some corrosion in there due to lack of shifting. I spray lube in the oil hole sometimes, but it still wont shift. I only wanted to shift to confirm low speed is 1:1. Is it?

What I'd like to do for the future is get a fixed 1:1 speed crank+sprocket system. With a pedalling RPM to wheel speed somewhere in-between the two schlumpf speeds (to suit my 160mm cranks at 15 to 35km/h). On the super rare future occasions when I need the old/stock 1st pedal gear, I can always get off and push. My Fighter has 34/16T sprockets (by memory), so I need to do some calcs to work out the sprocket size I need. A smaller front and the same 16T rear would be nice. I'd like a steel front too, since the alum sprocket wears so fast.

Of course I also need to hunt around and find the required bottom bracket and sprocket spider part. Hopefully I can keep using my nice new 160mm forged alum cranks. It's so nice riding trails with the shorter cranks!

 

[Emmett]

So I've been thinking about getting a new rear shock for my Fighter.
Ever since I put the 200mm DNM on the front, I keep pedal striking when cornering hard. Yeah I know there's a technique keeping the inside pedal high, and I already do that. The problems have only started since I switched to the DNM, so I can only conclude that the change in geometry is not compatible with my pedal and cornering style.
Anyway, what does everyone think of this shock for the Fighter:
http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/dnm-mountain-downhill-bike-rear-shock-220mm-or-190/BURNER-RCP2

CD, did you buy that shock? It looks pretty good. Std design with the two adjusters. Lower red knob does the main piston bleed adjustment, and the upper blue clicker controls bleed on comp only to the oil/gas res. Although I don't see a schrader valve for easy gas pressure adjustment. The length check is simple. Just get the same end-to-end fully extended length of the old stock shock. You might need to make some custom end bolt bushes to adapt those bushes to the fighter's shock bolts. 8mm I think. I actually just used some wraps of thin copper sheet metal. The alum bushes which you see in that photo should turn inside the shock ends. Usually they come out easily, and need periodic re-greasing. Aussie Nulon EP grease is really good stuff.

I think my X-Fusion Vector HLR shock is 220mm long. Not certain though. I'm 75Kg and use a 500 lbs/in spring and 180 PSI air pressure in the shock. I fine tune the spring preload for the type of riding or track and the rear is really good for me on my bike.

The damper valving in any MTB shock will be too soft for the Fighter. Dialing clickers in is a half solution. You need a lot firmer high speed damping, and bit firmer on low speed too. Reb might be ok. Check out the shock rebuild videos on youtube. It's so simple if you have the know how. Yesterday I put fresh Maxima shock oil in mine. Also a new bottom out stopper on the shaft.

With the DNM fork, if your pedals hit the ground then the fork must be riding too low. The problem wont just be the pedals or cranks hitting the ground. Your bike's handling would also be way out. Are you using 100 PSI air pressure in the right leg? You must. Some air pressure holds the front up a little and more importantly you need the air pressure to prevent the oil from foaming up inside the right leg damper. Without enough pressure on the oil, then the piston cavatates on comp hits, so on the next reb stroke there is little to zero damping. If you wont ride for a week of more, then expel the air pressure from the right leg, in case your inner seal leaks, so you don't get air inside the damper oil.

 

[Emmett]

Emmett, that sounds good. Give me a shout when you're ready.
Rix, no doubt I won't be able to keep up with Emmett! I set my suspension overly soft these days to cut my spine some slack. Likewise for the same reason my riding style is otherwise such that I'm not riding hard enough to push standard suspension to it's limits

Jay we both can cruise along and just enjoy. Next month would be good for me. I think you'll really like how my bike rides. How much to you weigh?

Watch this vid at 1m22s. My bike is a lot better on the landings than that one.

https://youtu.be/jbM5YgAys80

 

[Cowardlyduck]

CD, did you buy that shock? It looks pretty good. Std design with the two adjusters. Lower red knob does the main piston bleed adjustment, and the upper blue clicker controls bleed on comp only to the oil/gas res. Although I don't see a schrader valve for easy gas pressure adjustment. The length check is simple. Just get the same end-to-end fully extended length of the old stock shock. You might need to make some custom end bolt bushes to adapt those bushes to the fighter's shock bolts. 8mm I think. I actually just used some wraps of thin copper sheet metal. The alum bushes which you see in that photo should turn inside the shock ends. Usually they come out easily, and need periodic re-greasing. Aussie Nulon EP grease is really good stuff.

I think my X-Fusion Vector HLR shock is 220mm long. Not certain though. I'm 75Kg and use a 500 lbs/in spring and 180 PSI air pressure in the shock. I fine tune the spring preload for the type of riding or track and the rear is really good for me on my bike.

The damper valving in any MTB shock will be too soft for the Fighter. Dialing clickers in is a half solution. You need a lot firmer high speed damping, and bit firmer on low speed too. Reb might be ok. Check out the shock rebuild videos on youtube. It's so simple if you have the know how. Yesterday I put fresh Maxima shock oil in mine. Also a new bottom out stopper on the shaft.

With the DNM fork, if your pedals hit the ground then the fork must be riding too low. The problem wont just be the pedals or cranks hitting the ground. Your bike's handling would also be way out. Are you using 100 PSI air pressure in the right leg? You must. Some air pressure holds the front up a little and more importantly you need the air pressure to prevent the oil from foaming up inside the right leg damper. Without enough pressure on the oil, then the piston cavatates on comp hits, so on the next reb stroke there is little to zero damping. If you wont ride for a week of more, then expel the air pressure from the right leg, in case your inner seal leaks, so you don't get air inside the damper oil.

Thanks Emmett.
Yeah I did buy that shock, but it's on back order so won't arrive for another few weeks. I'm pretty sure my current shock is less than 220mm (maybe 190mm) so the increased travel will definitely help things.

My DNM fork is great. I love that it actually moves out of the way for smaller bumps unlike my crappy old RST Storm forks that came stock with my Fighter. They were terrible and at the end were pretty much like riding rigid forks.
I did let a lot of the air out of the DNM's in the end. I found I was never bottoming them out and only using 1/2 travel most of the time with 3/4 used on the hardest bumps/jumps. With all the air out I'm still yet to bottom them out and the hardest hits still only use about 90-95% of the travel available. Yeah the static sag is a fair bit more...and your probably right, it could have something to do with my pedal strike. Either way, the longer travel rear shock will elevate the whole bike more and hopefully fix that without the need to add much more air in the forks as I like the travel range the way it is now.
Is the oil foaming up bad for anything? I'm yet to notice the lack of damping after hard or rapid hits...but I'm far from a suspension snob like you.

Cheers

 

[Emmett]

Is the oil foaming up bad for anything? I'm yet to notice the lack of damping after hard or rapid hits...

When the oil foams up, I think the main or only problem is damping fade. Which might no bother you. I don't think the oil will break down any faster. Maybe some type of pitting wear can happen on some solid parts, but I doubt it, and besides that would not be what kills your fork in the end anyway.

Actually you reminded me that the stock 2014 DNM USD-8 fork actually has zero comp damping, and extremely stiff reb damping. So the air pressure is really just a method of spring rate adjustment. The clicker will adjust bleed on rebound only. Which I found to be very limiting in terms of traction and control. Did you buy your fork from Stealth or elsewhere? Stealth might have asked DNM to change the valving. If your fork is has near zero comp damping like mine originally did, then when you dial the clicker in all the way, it will slow down rebound (it could lock it) but wont change comp damping at all. In which case low air pressure wont really matter anyway because comp damping is what makes the oil foam.

DNM might have zero comp damping on purpose. They might rightly assume that 99% owners will do zero maintenance on the fork. So with no damping the oil doesn't work hard or break down anywhere near as quickly.

Your (and my) DNM forks will probably expire when the lower tubes get damaged and/or the main seals and bushes wear out. Always keep those lower tube guards installed, and clean and dry the lower tubes before storage. Every few months, loosen the upper triple clamps, undo and lift up the fork caps and pour just 10ml of thick fork oil in there. eg. 15 or 20wt. That'll go straight down to the main bushes. It'll slowly leak out the main seals, but nothing a period wipe with a rag wont fix. Just be sure to monitor and oil on the lower left leg, since that can make it onto your brake system.

With some internal mods, this fork can work really well, and be very confidence inspiring. See also my write up here http://www.stealthelectricbikes.com/forums/topic/dnm-usd-8-fork-review-and-mods/

 

[Jimboyr6]

[youtube]8s4wI5ieSfI[/youtube]

Finally worked out how to put videos on here :?

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I finally got my fan cooled HS4080 back up and running today. Details here.

The part that relates to Stealth though is the modified torque blocks Kiwiev made for me to use with this motor.

Kiwiev also made me an awesome bike rack...and I painted it red.

Haven't really used it yet as today when trying to undo it, the jam nut sheared off inside the tow hitch. Guess I'll have to drill it out now.

Cheers

 

[Cowardlyduck]

When the oil foams up, I think the main or only problem is damping fade. Which might no bother you. I don't think the oil will break down any faster. Maybe some type of pitting wear can happen on some solid parts, but I doubt it, and besides that would not be what kills your fork in the end anyway.

Actually you reminded me that the stock 2014 DNM USD-8 fork actually has zero comp damping, and extremely stiff reb damping. So the air pressure is really just a method of spring rate adjustment. The clicker will adjust bleed on rebound only. Which I found to be very limiting in terms of traction and control. Did you buy your fork from Stealth or elsewhere? Stealth might have asked DNM to change the valving. If your fork is has near zero comp damping like mine originally did, then when you dial the clicker in all the way, it will slow down rebound (it could lock it) but wont change comp damping at all. In which case low air pressure wont really matter anyway because comp damping is what makes the oil foam.

DNM might have zero comp damping on purpose. They might rightly assume that 99% owners will do zero maintenance on the fork. So with no damping the oil doesn't work hard or break down anywhere near as quickly.

Your (and my) DNM forks will probably expire when the lower tubes get damaged and/or the main seals and bushes wear out. Always keep those lower tube guards installed, and clean and dry the lower tubes before storage. Every few months, loosen the upper triple clamps, undo and lift up the fork caps and pour just 10ml of thick fork oil in there. eg. 15 or 20wt. That'll go straight down to the main bushes. It'll slowly leak out the main seals, but nothing a period wipe with a rag wont fix. Just be sure to monitor and oil on the lower left leg, since that can make it onto your brake system.

With some internal mods, this fork can work really well, and be very confidence inspiring. See also my write up here http://www.stealthelectricbikes.com/forums/topic/dnm-usd-8-fork-review-and-mods/

Thanks Emmett. Yeah I think I'll stick with almost no air then. My forks are not from Stealth...I just grabbed them online when the price was low a while back...only just got around to getting them fitted earlier this year and the bikes been out of action most of the year.
And yeah...I'm one of those near zero maintenance guy's...at least when it comes to forks. I might get the properly serviced in a couple of years...maybe. I'll see how they got first.

Finally worked out how to put videos on here :?

Nice! Those narrow country lane roads would scare the hell out of me! Can't see a damn thing around the next corner!

Cheers

 

[Jimboyr6]

Lol i know what u mean

 

[Rix]

Finally worked out how to put videos on here :?

Nice video, very nice wheelie at the beginning as well. Keep em coming.

 

[Jimboyr6]

Will do

 

[beast775]

Fun video,the guy in the mini must have thought you were the bionic man,also impressive wheelie .

 

[Jimboyr6]

Many thanks all.
Im just trying to loading another, even more wheelies

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I'm lovin the resurrected HS4080:

Although I don't get great range from it compared to my Leaf...it can just handle big hills faster...and for now keeps cooler since I haven't yet added cooling fans to my Leaf.

I'm still seeing the axle nuts loosening though. The torque block mods will stop the wheel/axle sliding out the rear, but they don't stop axle play. I need to try that trick with the feeler gauge still.

Cheers

 

[Jimboyr6]

It would appear that I require one of these now,
What a weapon
Start saving £10 k
[youtube]uknfZ5MUAoU[/youtube]
Or not it only does 30 miles

 

[Jimboyr6]

nice evening for it