Rix
100 TW
KarlJ said:
I have Bomber 143 from early 2012, your pic looks identical to my bike.
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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I have Bomber 143 from early 2012, your pic looks identical to my bike.
Rix
100 TW
litespeed
100 kW
You got your Bomber back from dad? How’s he doing? Still riding much?
Tom
Tom
Hi Guys,
My first post so apologies if I make any errors.
So about 6 weeks ago I bought a damaged H52 2016 model It had been in an accident and was need of some repairs namely the 8 corners where the frame has the covers on all had cracks, the disc or the rear was warped and the battery needed looking at as well as break pads.
So I got the frame re-wielded by a professional and reinforced, repainted the frame and took the the battery and controller to Stealths Brisbane dealer E-bike power. Ian from there was awesome helped out heaps sent battery back to Melbourne and they replaced 3 cells and when it all came back Ian spent time after hours and helped me get it all back together (Bleed brakes, but all the bits where they had to go etc).
So I had waited so long to own a stealth bike that I was so excited and couldn't wait I took it out and drove on road and off road but even going on the road for the briefest of times got nervous about no pedals.
Anyways a B52 comes on Gumtree for a really good price BUT it doesn't have a battery .... I thought I would take my H52 battery and test it but ran out if time didn't want to lose it so I just bought it. Went from no bike to two in a few weeks.
The B52 with the battery from the other bike feels natural on the road the ability to gear up and down feels right the fact I can peddle while riding gives me comfort and a control I don't get on the H52.
This is the issues though the B52 I have is No 211 from 2012/2013 where as the H52 is 2016/2017. The H52 is much faster like 20kms faster. The H52 has a CA that I can read and understand as it is larger than the B52. The breaks H52 Magura MT5 compared to the gold ones on the B52. Lastly the forks much better quality on the H52.
My question is should I be changing out the parts from one to the other?
I need to buy a new battery if I get CD to make me one could I get one with enough speed and extra distance to negate my issues with the B52 or should I get the upgraded Crystlyte motor as well.
Lastly should I just throw in the towel and just buy a new B52 and sell the others.
Any and all thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks
Crossy
My first post so apologies if I make any errors.
So about 6 weeks ago I bought a damaged H52 2016 model It had been in an accident and was need of some repairs namely the 8 corners where the frame has the covers on all had cracks, the disc or the rear was warped and the battery needed looking at as well as break pads.
So I got the frame re-wielded by a professional and reinforced, repainted the frame and took the the battery and controller to Stealths Brisbane dealer E-bike power. Ian from there was awesome helped out heaps sent battery back to Melbourne and they replaced 3 cells and when it all came back Ian spent time after hours and helped me get it all back together (Bleed brakes, but all the bits where they had to go etc).
So I had waited so long to own a stealth bike that I was so excited and couldn't wait I took it out and drove on road and off road but even going on the road for the briefest of times got nervous about no pedals.
Anyways a B52 comes on Gumtree for a really good price BUT it doesn't have a battery .... I thought I would take my H52 battery and test it but ran out if time didn't want to lose it so I just bought it. Went from no bike to two in a few weeks.
The B52 with the battery from the other bike feels natural on the road the ability to gear up and down feels right the fact I can peddle while riding gives me comfort and a control I don't get on the H52.
This is the issues though the B52 I have is No 211 from 2012/2013 where as the H52 is 2016/2017. The H52 is much faster like 20kms faster. The H52 has a CA that I can read and understand as it is larger than the B52. The breaks H52 Magura MT5 compared to the gold ones on the B52. Lastly the forks much better quality on the H52.
My question is should I be changing out the parts from one to the other?
I need to buy a new battery if I get CD to make me one could I get one with enough speed and extra distance to negate my issues with the B52 or should I get the upgraded Crystlyte motor as well.
Lastly should I just throw in the towel and just buy a new B52 and sell the others.
Any and all thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks
Crossy
So if I'm buying these new brakes for it, do I want HIGO-OPENER or HIGO-CLOSER . to suit the Crystalyte controller?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Magura-MT5e-Disc-Brake-for-E-Bikes-and-S-Pedelecs-engineering-from-germany/123209768514?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D59539%26meid%3D3cb03c991a7a41dcb3d16f621d33b42f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D264327135155%26itm%3D123209768514%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Magura-MT5e-Disc-Brake-for-E-Bikes-and-S-Pedelecs-engineering-from-germany/123209768514?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D59539%26meid%3D3cb03c991a7a41dcb3d16f621d33b42f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D264327135155%26itm%3D123209768514%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
looks like you had same problems i did crossy, forum doesn't let you post big pics that bloody iphones take 
.
My bomber struggling to beat 60km/hr too.... new battery 2000WH and 6.2kW new donk, new brakes, new chain, touchup some paint, new fork seals, rebuild rear shock = I probably should have just bought a new one and been done with it, at least with a few scratches you're not as scared to fall off it (albeit that will hurt at full pelt)
.My bomber struggling to beat 60km/hr too.... new battery 2000WH and 6.2kW new donk, new brakes, new chain, touchup some paint, new fork seals, rebuild rear shock = I probably should have just bought a new one and been done with it, at least with a few scratches you're not as scared to fall off it (albeit that will hurt at full pelt)
Rix
100 TW
Alot of the parts are interchangable on between the H52 and B52, I say build up the perfect bike, then get the other one running and sell it to get some of your money back.Crossy said:
Rix
100 TW
litespeed said:
Yah Tom, I finally got the Bomber back, because my dad liked my Army green P7 better. Thats why I built up the desert tan P7R, because my dad has my green one.
[/quote]
Alot of the parts are interchangable on between the H52 and B52, I say build up the perfect bike, then get the other one running and sell it to get some of your money back.
[/quote]
Thanks Rix, just to be sure the motor is definitely better in the later model h52 and is the CA interchangeable?
Alot of the parts are interchangable on between the H52 and B52, I say build up the perfect bike, then get the other one running and sell it to get some of your money back.
[/quote]
Thanks Rix, just to be sure the motor is definitely better in the later model h52 and is the CA interchangeable?
Assuming I get the original pack repaired, will it work for your 2nd bike?
I can’t see myself going past the new pack at 2kWh
Looks like one cell in mine is toast so give me a shout out if you are interested and if so at how many $$
I can’t see myself going past the new pack at 2kWh
Looks like one cell in mine is toast so give me a shout out if you are interested and if so at how many $$
Hey guy's,
I've done some playing around with size options to make a cost effective, high capacity Bomber battery with the latest tech and managed to come up with this:
There would be 2 levels, so it is 20S10P and uses 21700 cells.
What I don't know is if the 370mm length will be able to fit. It's only 20mm more than the max recommended length so I'm thinking it should be easy enough to fit by angling it in.
If this config could fit it would be approx 50AH, 20S (74V) so matches the existing battery setup for voltage and more than doubles the range. This would mean you could keep using the existing charger.
The only catch is it may be difficult to fit a BMS and it may be necessary to make the BMS a separate connectable unit that sits up in the neck area or on top of the pack under the seat sub frame. Once connected this would not be a problem in every day use and something like Velcro to secure it in place inside the frame could be used.
Anyway, let me know what you think. Does anyone feel like trying to fit it with some cardboard. The full dimensions would be around 375x145x120 (LxHxW)
If it can I think it might be a real game changer for Bomber owners.
Cheers
I've done some playing around with size options to make a cost effective, high capacity Bomber battery with the latest tech and managed to come up with this:
There would be 2 levels, so it is 20S10P and uses 21700 cells.
What I don't know is if the 370mm length will be able to fit. It's only 20mm more than the max recommended length so I'm thinking it should be easy enough to fit by angling it in.
If this config could fit it would be approx 50AH, 20S (74V) so matches the existing battery setup for voltage and more than doubles the range. This would mean you could keep using the existing charger.
The only catch is it may be difficult to fit a BMS and it may be necessary to make the BMS a separate connectable unit that sits up in the neck area or on top of the pack under the seat sub frame. Once connected this would not be a problem in every day use and something like Velcro to secure it in place inside the frame could be used.
Anyway, let me know what you think. Does anyone feel like trying to fit it with some cardboard. The full dimensions would be around 375x145x120 (LxHxW)
If it can I think it might be a real game changer for Bomber owners.
Cheers
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Can somebody please explain to me what a dropper seat post does, and how it works? Aside from making it easy to make quick changes to your seat height, does it also have any kind of suspension?
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,903
dropper post are mostly used on mtn bikes bc you need seat height for efficient pedal climbing, then you drop the seat out of the way for descent.. remote lever on the bar controls seat height adjustment.. they don't have suspension (that I know of).. but there are suspension seat post, not sure if any are droppers though..
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
Thanks alot Freeride, that's what I thought. No suspension, but I wasn't sure.
What I don't know is if the 370mm length will be able to fit. It's only 20mm more than the max recommended length so I'm thinking it should be easy enough to fit by angling it in.
"Slight modification of the box may allow this"
If this config could fit it would be approx 50AH, 20S (74V) so matches the existing battery setup for voltage and more than doubles the range. This would mean you could keep using the existing charger.
-charger would rely on the BMS kicking it off at full pack voltage
The only catch is it may be difficult to fit a BMS and it may be necessary to make the BMS a separate connectable unit that sits up in the neck area or on top of the pack under the seat sub frame. Once connected this would not be a problem in every day use and something like Velcro to secure it in place inside the frame could be used.
100% this would be necessary
Anyway, let me know what you think. Does anyone feel like trying to fit it with some cardboard. The full dimensions would be around 375x145x120 (LxHxW)
If it can I think it might be a real game changer for Bomber owners.
New stealth pack is 22S3P pouch cells again - would be nice to run 21S or 22S as a replacement pack as charging slightly lower with the original stealth charger 87.6V gives 4.17V each cell and 3.98V (22S) which would give the pack excellent life.
21700's as far as I can tell are struggling in 10P to make the 70-80A discharge requirements many bomber owners seek these days.
(could be wrong) vs 18650 format which in a 30Q or HG2 at >20A/cell are a ride in the park.
(that said my first battery was a 29E and well overstressed on paper and peak demand does not last more than a few seconds at a time.
real problem is $, Stealth want almost as much as I paid for my bike, so as the pack only has 65 cycles (yeah I know WTF!!!)
a replaced cell or two should have it sorted for me.
I think I will give it a couple of weeks once I have the pack back and makes sure its 100% sweet, give it a birthday and flip it.
My purpose is as a commuter and for that there are many more "stealthy" options! LOL
Cheers
"Slight modification of the box may allow this"
If this config could fit it would be approx 50AH, 20S (74V) so matches the existing battery setup for voltage and more than doubles the range. This would mean you could keep using the existing charger.
-charger would rely on the BMS kicking it off at full pack voltage
The only catch is it may be difficult to fit a BMS and it may be necessary to make the BMS a separate connectable unit that sits up in the neck area or on top of the pack under the seat sub frame. Once connected this would not be a problem in every day use and something like Velcro to secure it in place inside the frame could be used.
100% this would be necessary
Anyway, let me know what you think. Does anyone feel like trying to fit it with some cardboard. The full dimensions would be around 375x145x120 (LxHxW)
If it can I think it might be a real game changer for Bomber owners.
New stealth pack is 22S3P pouch cells again - would be nice to run 21S or 22S as a replacement pack as charging slightly lower with the original stealth charger 87.6V gives 4.17V each cell and 3.98V (22S) which would give the pack excellent life.
21700's as far as I can tell are struggling in 10P to make the 70-80A discharge requirements many bomber owners seek these days.
(could be wrong) vs 18650 format which in a 30Q or HG2 at >20A/cell are a ride in the park.
(that said my first battery was a 29E and well overstressed on paper and peak demand does not last more than a few seconds at a time.
real problem is $, Stealth want almost as much as I paid for my bike, so as the pack only has 65 cycles (yeah I know WTF!!!)
a replaced cell or two should have it sorted for me.
I think I will give it a couple of weeks once I have the pack back and makes sure its 100% sweet, give it a birthday and flip it.
My purpose is as a commuter and for that there are many more "stealthy" options! LOL
Cheers
Thanks for the reply KarlJ.
Didn't realise a stock pack is 22S. That means the stock charger wouldn't work so well, however I do think 18-20S is still the best option for a long range/high capacity pack for the Bomber. Trying to squeeze in 22S means a significantly complex pack or drop in capacity as it's just not possible to do it without complex, split pack designs or much smaller capacity arrangements.
Your comments on the C rate of the 21700's also has me wondering...I think they could work with the stock setup at 10P, but not the best choice of cell TBH.
I did a bit more design work with 18650 cells and think I might be able to make a 20S14P option work if each 'deck' is a separate pack.
I'm making the assumption that the Bomber frame opening is similar in design to the Alpha and it tapers bigger towards the top like this:
If that's the case, it should be possible to design the lower part of the pack longer so it can be slotted in at the top, then dropped into place. Then the top pack can be slid in on top. So basically instead of combining both halves together into one pack, each half would be it's own separate pack like this:
The pack above was the 18S for my Alpha, but I think 20S could work if split. Here's the raw dimensions:
Obviously once you add padding, balance wires and main discharge wires it's going to be a bit longer, wider, taller, but not a huge amount.
Because it uses 18650 cells, it would also be heaps easier to fit a BMS on the top pack. The only hard part would be the connector, but I'm sure I can sort that out.
What do others think?
Cheers
Didn't realise a stock pack is 22S. That means the stock charger wouldn't work so well, however I do think 18-20S is still the best option for a long range/high capacity pack for the Bomber. Trying to squeeze in 22S means a significantly complex pack or drop in capacity as it's just not possible to do it without complex, split pack designs or much smaller capacity arrangements.
Your comments on the C rate of the 21700's also has me wondering...I think they could work with the stock setup at 10P, but not the best choice of cell TBH.
I did a bit more design work with 18650 cells and think I might be able to make a 20S14P option work if each 'deck' is a separate pack.
I'm making the assumption that the Bomber frame opening is similar in design to the Alpha and it tapers bigger towards the top like this:
If that's the case, it should be possible to design the lower part of the pack longer so it can be slotted in at the top, then dropped into place. Then the top pack can be slid in on top. So basically instead of combining both halves together into one pack, each half would be it's own separate pack like this:
The pack above was the 18S for my Alpha, but I think 20S could work if split. Here's the raw dimensions:
Obviously once you add padding, balance wires and main discharge wires it's going to be a bit longer, wider, taller, but not a huge amount.
Because it uses 18650 cells, it would also be heaps easier to fit a BMS on the top pack. The only hard part would be the connector, but I'm sure I can sort that out.
What do others think?
Cheers
original pack was 24S but in Lifepo4 cells which tapp out at a lower voltage per cell.
hence 21S the best fit voltage wise , not as hard as you think just doesn't look as symetrical when looking at it from the top as
just adds another 10 cells
hence if you thought 20S10P would fit =200cells 200/21=9.5 cant do halves so call it 21S9P still gets a 3.2kWh pack
3.6V nom. x 4.8Ah x 21 series x 9 parallel. (based on your calcs for dimensions
Two half packs would be a better config YES if for no other reason than less to pull apart should you get a dud cell.
hence 21S the best fit voltage wise , not as hard as you think just doesn't look as symetrical when looking at it from the top as
just adds another 10 cells
hence if you thought 20S10P would fit =200cells 200/21=9.5 cant do halves so call it 21S9P still gets a 3.2kWh pack
3.6V nom. x 4.8Ah x 21 series x 9 parallel. (based on your calcs for dimensions
Two half packs would be a better config YES if for no other reason than less to pull apart should you get a dud cell.
This is true, but the 370mm was already pushing it with the 21700 cells as that wasn't factoring in padding and discharge wires etc which would probably push it to 380mm
Using 18650's at 362mm makes things much more manageable. 20S vs 21S isn't a big deal IMO and worth it if we want max capacity/range.
20S14P using 18650's makes a ~3.55kWh pack and 14 of the 18650's will complain (sag) much less than 10 x 21700's therefore increasing the life of the pack.
I know it's possible to make the series connections less 'neat' and make an asymmetrical pack, but I'm probably going to be making a few of these so also need to make them cost effective (aka simple) to make.
What do you think, would the split pack idea fit at ~368mm? I'm guessing the 362mm will probably blow out to 368mm once padding and wires are added.
Cheers
Using 18650's at 362mm makes things much more manageable. 20S vs 21S isn't a big deal IMO and worth it if we want max capacity/range.
20S14P using 18650's makes a ~3.55kWh pack and 14 of the 18650's will complain (sag) much less than 10 x 21700's therefore increasing the life of the pack.
I know it's possible to make the series connections less 'neat' and make an asymmetrical pack, but I'm probably going to be making a few of these so also need to make them cost effective (aka simple) to make.
What do you think, would the split pack idea fit at ~368mm? I'm guessing the 362mm will probably blow out to 368mm once padding and wires are added.
Cheers
Cowardlyduck said:Hey guy's,
I've done some playing around with size options to make a cost effective, high capacity Bomber battery with the latest tech and managed to come up with this:
Bomber 21700 Battery.JPG
There would be 2 levels, so it is 20S10P and uses 21700 cells.
What I don't know is if the 370mm length will be able to fit. It's only 20mm more than the max recommended length so I'm thinking it should be easy enough to fit by angling it in.
If this config could fit it would be approx 50AH, 20S (74V) so matches the existing battery setup for voltage and more than doubles the range. This would mean you could keep using the existing charger.
The only catch is it may be difficult to fit a BMS and it may be necessary to make the BMS a separate connectable unit that sits up in the neck area or on top of the pack under the seat sub frame. Once connected this would not be a problem in every day use and something like Velcro to secure it in place inside the frame could be used.
Anyway, let me know what you think. Does anyone feel like trying to fit it with some cardboard. The full dimensions would be around 375x145x120 (LxHxW)
If it can I think it might be a real game changer for Bomber owners.
Cheers
As Requested CD....
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Crossy said:
I have B412 that I received from Stealth in late 2013. It was just like yours as best as I can tell.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I just got through installing new Fox 40 Performance Elite forks. So far I went around the block a couple of times, and also a 20 mile test ride, and just got back. Sorry about the poor quality pictures, I'll get better ones eventually.
What I found out from this install is these forks aren't really suited for Bombers. Apprently these forks aren't supposed to work on a bike with a overall neck height, including races of more than about 5 3/4". Mine is more than 6 ". I didn't do accurate measurements on this issue, but the bottom line is our head tube, and bearing stack height is more than about 3/4" too long. The problem this causes is if you bottom out, the seals will hit the bottom of the crown. Raising the upper leg higher in the trees to make the upper leg long enough to reach a little above the top bracket only makes matters worse, because now there's even less travel available before the seals hit. That ended up being about 7 1/2", but the forks have 8" travel. So you better not buy these forks unless we can figure out how to fix this problem.
I probably should heed my own advise, but what's the worse that can happen? So the seals get crushed. I could still make it home. The tire is too short to hit the crown even if the forks are collapsed all the way. The level of danger is less than jumping a can of burning gasoline on my beach cruiser when I was 10 years old
Lets do this! First thing I noticed going around the block was a firm ride, with very little sag even in spite of my lard butt. I started out with the fork legs flush with the top of the top clamp, and even so the seals will hit by about a 1/2", but will they. Not like this, I'm barely using any travel. I have no idea how to adjust fancy forks like these, but I'm used to adding air to the forks on my Fatty, so I decided to check the pressure. Max is supposed to be about 120 psi, and that's about where they were. I dropped them down to about 100 psi, and got about 1/2" more sag, putting in the acceptable range of sag with me on the bike. I wound around the block again. It's still firm, but not riding quite as high. Didn't seem like it was in any danger of bottoming, I could only make it use a little more than half the travel. That being the case I decided to drop the forks about an inch in the trees. The legs are sticking up above the top clamp about 22 mm now. Satisfied it was working pretty good I took off for what turned out to be a 20 mile test ride at speed.
I before getting very far I found a short staircase that I rode down to see if it wanted to bottom. It didn't but it came within 20mm. After that I headed into the city looking for some bumpy streets. Going fast these forks are a dream. They feel firm, but they eat the forces up, hardly moving my hangs. Harder hits only feel like a dull thud to my hand. Bumpy streets that my stock forks hated, these forks seem to like better than smooth streets. My stock forks were also very noisy on rough pavement, but these forks are mostly silent. Leaned into a turn at speed I'm feeling great feedback from the tire. I have no doubt it's stuck to the road a lot better now. Riding through a turn at speed the extra stability is confidence inspiring. These forks are nothing like the stock forks.
What I found out from this install is these forks aren't really suited for Bombers. Apprently these forks aren't supposed to work on a bike with a overall neck height, including races of more than about 5 3/4". Mine is more than 6 ". I didn't do accurate measurements on this issue, but the bottom line is our head tube, and bearing stack height is more than about 3/4" too long. The problem this causes is if you bottom out, the seals will hit the bottom of the crown. Raising the upper leg higher in the trees to make the upper leg long enough to reach a little above the top bracket only makes matters worse, because now there's even less travel available before the seals hit. That ended up being about 7 1/2", but the forks have 8" travel. So you better not buy these forks unless we can figure out how to fix this problem.
I probably should heed my own advise, but what's the worse that can happen? So the seals get crushed. I could still make it home. The tire is too short to hit the crown even if the forks are collapsed all the way. The level of danger is less than jumping a can of burning gasoline on my beach cruiser when I was 10 years old
Lets do this! First thing I noticed going around the block was a firm ride, with very little sag even in spite of my lard butt. I started out with the fork legs flush with the top of the top clamp, and even so the seals will hit by about a 1/2", but will they. Not like this, I'm barely using any travel. I have no idea how to adjust fancy forks like these, but I'm used to adding air to the forks on my Fatty, so I decided to check the pressure. Max is supposed to be about 120 psi, and that's about where they were. I dropped them down to about 100 psi, and got about 1/2" more sag, putting in the acceptable range of sag with me on the bike. I wound around the block again. It's still firm, but not riding quite as high. Didn't seem like it was in any danger of bottoming, I could only make it use a little more than half the travel. That being the case I decided to drop the forks about an inch in the trees. The legs are sticking up above the top clamp about 22 mm now. Satisfied it was working pretty good I took off for what turned out to be a 20 mile test ride at speed.
I before getting very far I found a short staircase that I rode down to see if it wanted to bottom. It didn't but it came within 20mm. After that I headed into the city looking for some bumpy streets. Going fast these forks are a dream. They feel firm, but they eat the forces up, hardly moving my hangs. Harder hits only feel like a dull thud to my hand. Bumpy streets that my stock forks hated, these forks seem to like better than smooth streets. My stock forks were also very noisy on rough pavement, but these forks are mostly silent. Leaned into a turn at speed I'm feeling great feedback from the tire. I have no doubt it's stuck to the road a lot better now. Riding through a turn at speed the extra stability is confidence inspiring. These forks are nothing like the stock forks.
Thanks heaps Crossy! :thumb:Crossy said:
That's awesome! Exactly the visualisation I needed.
The 21700 pack is exactly those dimensions so I don't think it would fit once padding, wires, etc is factored in.
That means the slightly smaller 20S14P 18650 pack probably would fit nicely in one unit though. No need to split it up.
And since the 18650 pack is also the higher capacity, better balanced option I think it's the design I will settle on for anyone wanting a new Bomber battery with maximum capacity.
If anyone wants me to make them one, let me know. I can probably make them cheaper if I get a few orders around the same time as I can bulk order cells at a more discounted rate.
Cheers
