E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[biknut]

I haven't mentioned lately how great these Fox 40s are. These forks are ass kickers better than every fork I've ever tried by far. I just added air for the first time since installing them last year. I'm running about 94 psi which is about 15 or 20 psi less than they were out of the box. They ride very comfortably, but can take a hard hit, and keep the tire on the road better than anything I've experienced before. They've never bottomed out either. They look almost too bad ass for my low key look I'm after.

 

[biknut]

Here's another huge advantage my Bomber has over a Sur Ron. Last week I ran out of battery 8 miles from home. No problem though, because I pedaled home in about an hour, sometimes even getting up to 4th gear. Big deal you might think, but try it when you're 66.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

 

[john61ct]

I haven't mentioned lately how great these Fox 40s are. These forks are ass kickers better than every fork I've ever tried by far. I just added air for the first time since installing them last year. I'm running about 94 psi which is about 15 or 20 psi less than they were out of the box. They ride very comfortably, but can take a hard hit, and keep the tire on the road better than anything I've experienced before. They've never bottomed out either. They look almost too bad ass for my low key look I'm after.

Think they'd be stiff & strong enough to handle a powerful DD hub motor on front?

 

[biknut]

I haven't mentioned lately how great these Fox 40s are. These forks are ass kickers better than every fork I've ever tried by far. I just added air for the first time since installing them last year. I'm running about 94 psi which is about 15 or 20 psi less than they were out of the box. They ride very comfortably, but can take a hard hit, and keep the tire on the road better than anything I've experienced before. They've never bottomed out either. They look almost too bad ass for my low key look I'm after.

Think they'd be stiff & strong enough to handle a powerful DD hub motor on front?

Yeah they're really strong. A big hub motor isn't going to make them breath hard, the brakes put more stress on them than a motor will, and they have no problem with that.

Don't forget they have a 20mm axle.

 

[PRW]

quick question - where is the model number stamped on the frame for the B52? thanks

 

[biknut]

quick question - where is the model number stamped on the frame for the B52? thanks

It's on a plaque, on the left side of the head tube.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

It's on a plaque, on the left side of the head tube.

I'm not sure that's the case any more. I know it was on the older models, but I think the new one's might have it internal to the frame now.
After my Fighter came back from Stealth recently it had a new serial # stamped to a brace on the inside of the frame just under the seat sub-frame. It doesn't match my previous serial #66 though so I dunno what mine is officially now.

Cheers

 

[PRW]

quick question - where is the model number stamped on the frame for the B52? thanks

It's on a plaque, on the left side of the head tube.

Thanks TV

 

[biknut]

It's on a plaque, on the left side of the head tube.

I'm not sure that's the case any more. I know it was on the older models, but I think the new one's might have it internal to the frame now.
After my Fighter came back from Stealth recently it had a new serial # stamped to a brace on the inside of the frame just under the seat sub-frame. It doesn't match my previous serial #66 though so I dunno what mine is officially now.

Cheers

Typically after a factory rebuilds it, it would be considered new again so I would consider the new number active now.

 

[KarlJ]

Well....

Although I cant afford a fox 40..... I recently upgraded from the RST R-ONE to whats now the stock fit DNM-USD-8.
i find the bike tramlines more with the USD ie feels tougher to make the bike change direction and i'm struggling to want a line and get it (on the road), I'm trying not to overthink it as then i fell like im simply out of control and when i hold the front wheel between my legs and turn the handlebars there is an alarming amount of movement (easily) The RST R-One is much stiffer (torsionally?)
that said the ride is much better (softer) than a basically worn out RST-R -one.
it had worn through the gold plating on the legs and had stopped leaking oil through the seals (no oil left lol)
Stealth helped me out with a bag of bits of 2nd hand (warranty units I guess) to get one serviceable set out of.

Overall result - winning (I think) and still getting used to it......

anyone has some setup ideas for it i'm all ears . (dont have a shock pump ?? do I need one??)

K

 

[biknut]

Well....

Although I cant afford a fox 40..... I recently upgraded from the RST R-ONE to whats now the stock fit DNM-USD-8.
i find the bike tramlines more with the USD ie feels tougher to make the bike change direction and i'm struggling to want a line and get it (on the road), I'm trying not to overthink it as then i fell like im simply out of control and when i hold the front wheel between my legs and turn the handlebars there is an alarming amount of movement (easily) The RST R-One is much stiffer (torsionally?)
that said the ride is much better (softer) than a basically worn out RST-R -one.
it had worn through the gold plating on the legs and had stopped leaking oil through the seals (no oil left lol)
Stealth helped me out with a bag of bits of 2nd hand (warranty units I guess) to get one serviceable set out of.

Overall result - winning (I think) and still getting used to it......

anyone has some setup ideas for it i'm all ears . (dont have a shock pump ?? do I need one??)

K

Yes you'll need some way to add air to your forks. I use my compressor, and set the regulator to the pressure I want, usually about 95 psi. For you it will depend on how much you weight, and the kind of riding you do. What you want is enough pressure to keep from bottoming out. Once you figure out your best pressure you won't need to add air very often. I recommend starting out with your compression, and rebound adjustments in the middle of the range, and find your best air pressure first. If you don't own a compressor there's a lot of suspension air pumps you can buy. I would probably buy the one from Fox Racing which is a major brand, and reasonably priced.

 

[KarlJ]

95psi is cool, i had some idea it was hundreds like an aircraft oleo,
can do that with bike pump will sus out mid range and go from there.
Cheers Karl

 

[mcclead2]

I am thinking of building an ebike with a stealth frame from ebay / AliExpress - I am looking to see if anyone has fitted Turnigy 20000mah 6S Lipo batteries into these frames and how did they wire them. I am looking to use it for commuting to work and forest trails in summer. Also what kw motor would you recommend and HUB or Crank motor?

I'm pretty tall (6ft) and ride motorbikes so want something that will move and handle good.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

what kind of budget are you hoping for.. those copy cat frames are not great, handling, weight, quality.. how about starting with a better frame such as stealth futr frame etc .. since the frame is the backbone of a powerful ebike not the best place to skimp.. hub bikes are easier to build but mid drive is better for off-road..

 

[Cowardlyduck]

I really only want about fifty cells, as I was hoping to get another year or two out of my relatively recently purchased battery, with a bit of cell replacement.
There seems to be a few parallel packs that aren't keeping up.
I'm not confident the BMS isn't the cause.

Yeah, Battery Murdering Systems can do that. You could break out the balance leads so you can monitor them separate to the BMS, but it's a lot of work for not much gain.

I directed said Hurricane owner to you for the new battery.
The Hurricane's in my shed being subjected to foot peg assembly replacement with a bottom bracket for single speed pedal setup.

Thanks! Appreciate the referral.

It should be a great pack when done and as I advised the owner, he will have the longest range Hurricane in the world once this is complete.


I'm nearly finished it actually...just got the balance parallel port contraption that replaces the BMS to make then I'm done.

Cheers

 

[KarlJ]

[/quote]

I really only want about fifty cells, as I was hoping to get another year or two out of my relatively recently purchased battery, with a bit of cell replacement.
There seems to be a few parallel packs that aren't keeping up.
I'm not confident the BMS isn't the cause.

Cheers,
Clinton
[/quote]

Disconnect the BMS and add a 80A MCB, monitor packs manually for a few rides. If you want to fix an existing assembled pack it can get tricky. try and identify what you have so at least you can replace with same cells.
18650's are very reliable, in fact CD is so confident he doesn't run a BMS at all AND rarely does he need to balance them.

Personally I have made DIY powerwalls etc and dud cells are typically flat and have internal damage/ whatever elsea that causes them to heat significantly during charging and they die quickly afterwards. AS for new cells it is VERY rare to have any problems. so rare in fact TESLA use ~10,000 in a P90D, whilst they have cell level fuses in real life I dont think anyone has ever seen one popped for any reason.

 

[gomyles]

Hello there all

Quick question for anyone who has ran the Zoom 680DH Forks

Looking to run the the 29'' version for a bit more tire clearance
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33003109240.html

Anyone forsee any issues with fitment? I'm okay with the quality at that price point.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks and all of your bikes look amazing

 

[bigbore]

Screen Shot 2020-02-12 at 7.25.57 PM.png
If your spur gear is loose there is are 2 allen bolts on the top and bottom that sandwich the shaft in place, Check the side plates to see if there is any wear that may make the shaft loose (not top to bottom but left to right)...

This is just an update for the Vboxx problem that I have.
I lost the 1st,2nd and 4th gears and looking inside the unit I found out that the culprit is the output shaft freewheel that do not engage anymore and by looking at the chart in the manual I noticed that the freewheel works only in the gears I lost.
I also noticed too much play of the sprocket connection part inside the ball bearing so I will need a new one of this too.
While I'm rebuilding my Vboxx I will change both sides gaskets also.
I sent an e-mail to Stealth bike asking for the parts I need, and I will let you know if I will be able to obtain it from them.
Here is what I would like to order.

 

[biknut]

Bigbore, so I assume this is part of the freewheel mechanism. If you can describe how it has failed in a little more detail, I may know a way it can be repaired. Does it use a wire spring clip to activate the detents?

 

[bigbore]

Bigbore, so I assume this is part of the freewheel mechanism. If you can describe how it has failed in a little more detail, I may know a way it can be repaired. Does it use a wire spring clip to activate the detents?

Yes it uses a wire spring clip to activate the detents but sounds like it doesn't work anymore, the detents want to stay close to the inner circular piece. The other part with the gear is a little damaged too; the teeth are slightly worn.

 

[biknut]

Yes it uses a wire spring clip to activate the detents but sounds like it doesn't work anymore, the detents want to stay close to the inner circular piece. The other part with the gear is a little damaged too; the teeth are slightly worn.

I thought it looked familiar. I was having a problem with freewheel failure of DNP Epoch freewheels on my Fatty. They use a detent mechanism that looks similar to this VBoxx part. What kept happening is the wire spring clip would break prematurely after only a few months of operation. After going through 3 freewheels I got this idea for a repair. I substituted 2 rubber bands for the spring clip. 1 rubber band is just a back up. Before assembly I filled the mechanism with synthetic grease. It's been working very well for about 6 months now and is quieter than stock. Now that the weather is warming up I'll be riding more. I'll let you know if it fails any time soon.

 

[bigbore]

Hey TV you're my hero, I didn't think about fixing the inner part with the 3 teeth.
Here is what I've done.
With a steel spring wire of 1mm diameter I made a similar circular spring like the original one.









Then while looking close to the other shaft (the input shaft) I found out that the freewheel on that shaft was working but only with a tooth engaging so disassembling it I found out that the circular spring is broken on that part too.

 

[Rix]

Fantastico Grande Alesaggio!! Probably will be better than OEM.

 

[biknut]

Yeah that looks great Bigbore. Considering it's probably a common type of failure, it's good to know it's repairable, especially since replacement parts are hard to come by.