E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners


I really only want about fifty cells, as I was hoping to get another year or two out of my relatively recently purchased battery, with a bit of cell replacement.
There seems to be a few parallel packs that aren't keeping up.
I'm not confident the BMS isn't the cause.

Cheers,
Clinton
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Disconnect the BMS and add a 80A MCB, monitor packs manually for a few rides. If you want to fix an existing assembled pack it can get tricky. try and identify what you have so at least you can replace with same cells.
18650's are very reliable, in fact CD is so confident he doesn't run a BMS at all AND rarely does he need to balance them.

Personally I have made DIY powerwalls etc and dud cells are typically flat and have internal damage/ whatever elsea that causes them to heat significantly during charging and they die quickly afterwards. AS for new cells it is VERY rare to have any problems. so rare in fact TESLA use ~10,000 in a P90D, whilst they have cell level fuses in real life I dont think anyone has ever seen one popped for any reason.
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Hi and thanks Karl,
I have three packs ready to swap out and will probably bypass the bms and try monitoring and balancing manually, for a while at least.
I've manually balanced previously and found after only a couple of cycles, the same packs are down again and if left for a while I find these same packs down, usually by more and also other packs also down.
Of note, I've used the cells I already replaced to build a makita battery and it's working fine...hence I suspect the bms is the problem.
If it's not the problem, it certainly doesn't seem to be helping given the low voltage of some packs, which were down by +0.5v at last check.
Thanks again,
Clinton
 
Just another update regarding my Vboxx. I have no reply yet from AU at tech@stealthelectricbikes.com
My Bomber now has 20.000Km and some parts must be replaced as I wrote before. The piece that connect the sprocket to the output shaft has too much play in the bearing and should be replaced. This is with a brand new ball bearing:
20200312_143950~2[1].jpg

So I made the 3D model of that piece and will ask for a quotation at a toolshop to build that piece on a CNC machine.
sprok-hold-00.png
sprok-hold-01.png

If anybody will need that piece I will let you know how much would it cost, I think I will made it out of hardened stainless steel.
 
Excellent work as always Grande. My Vboxx has around 16000 miles or so now. It has always had play on the sprocket counter shaft since day 1. I wonder if a little play is by design?
 
Rix said:
Excellent work as always Grande. My Vboxx has around 16000 miles or so now. It has always had play on the sprocket counter shaft since day 1. I wonder if a little play is by design?

I don't think so.
I think they made the Vboxx with large mechanical tolerances on the bearings. All the bearings I substituted needed some Loctite 603 because of too much play (they were mounted with some coaxial locking compound).
Today I decided to fix the piece by building a 1mm thick bush to restore the right clearance on the bearing. I started to build a fixture to work it on the lathe. So maybe I will be back on saddle sooner than expected :mrgreen:
 
bigbore said:
Rix said:
Excellent work as always Grande. My Vboxx has around 16000 miles or so now. It has always had play on the sprocket counter shaft since day 1. I wonder if a little play is by design?

I don't think so.
I think they made the Vboxx with large mechanical tolerances on the bearings. All the bearings I substituted needed some Loctite 603 because of too much play (they were mounted with some coaxial locking compound).
Today I decided to fix the piece by building a 1mm thick bush to restore the right clearance on the bearing. I started to build a fixture to work it on the lathe. So maybe I will be back on saddle sooner than expected :mrgreen:
Interesting. I may have to send you my Vboxx and have you give it the Big Bore treatment. Paid labor and parts of course. :bigthumb:
 
Rix said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
I'm willing to trade 2 rolls of toilet paper for a new 35ah battery pack. Who wants it?
:lol: :lol: :lol:

89396168-2613890488843499-4681187707492237312-n.jpg
 
This is what it has come down for me. The good news is, it will last a while. On average, I use 3 per crapper evolution. So that comes out to about 170 trips covered at the crapper.
 

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Does anybody know what phase current means in context to what these fancy controllers for Sur Ron's have. They talk about shifting the phase current in the rpm band which changes power output and moves the peak higher or lower in the rpm's. Apprently the controller gives you the ability to do this. I never really heard of it before.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Does anybody know what phase current means in context to what these fancy controllers for Sur Ron's have. They talk about shifting the phase current in the rpm band which changes power output and moves the peak higher or lower in the rpm's. Apprently the controller gives you the ability to do this. I never really heard of it before.

Its controller programming. Based on programming, power delivery can be altered at various stages in the volt range. I don't understand how the programming works exactly, just that it can be done, and the delivery of phase current can be manipulated.
 
The Bitch is back....took a minute but its up and running again....
Just got a new battery pack for it.....35AH unit.. as of new I have only done a few short rides but happy to have the unit up and running... On thing I did notice was that when the battery is close to fully charged on the 1st ride regen does not work... odd but Im sure there is a setting for it..
 
Regen requires a certain amount of Ah discharged, or has nowhere to put it

you do **not** want your pack getting overcharged!
 
How many in series?
Read the thread 100V 100A crystalyte

I run 22s and regen won’t run at much above 82V
You can do a board level mod with a resistor and not have to change programming

Unless you live on the top of a mountain can I see you being able to overcharge a pack.

First time you hit the throttle you drop a couple of volts which takes a lot more to put back.
People often ask if you can charge it whilst riding and the answer is a solid NO.

You would need to ride up and down a hill all day for a week and it would be some pretty spectacular exercise!

BTW big bore - top work mate
Cowardly duck - well done on the sale- after all a basically new bike
 
That big initial V drop is likely just surface charge, not significant SoC/Ah capacity utilization.

Charging to 4.05V is really better for longevity anyway.

I need regen to always work well for drag breaking heavy loads down long mountain roads. Rather than using the battery, considering just 1000W resistors with good airflow mounted where they won't burn me.
 
I just bought a new battery that arrived today. I couldn't take it anymore, even my 24ah battery that I bought last year was still too little. This one is 72v 35ah made with SANYO GA3500 cells. It actually fits in the frame with room to spare
350x120x140 100 amp bms 6000w

I just got it this afternoon, and before I can use it I need to install the 120 amp Anderson that they supplied onto my controller wire. It also came with a 5 amp charger that I can throw on the plie. $1500 shipped. Considering the way things are going in the world this may be the last chance I get to buy low cost battery from Coronaville.

I'm excited about the range I expect to be getting now. For the first time I'll have both range, and speed at the same time.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32921052191.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.57246b9bp9FHFl
 
KarlJ said:
How many in series?
Read the thread 100V 100A crystalyte

I run 22s and regen won’t run at much above 82V
You can do a board level mod with a resistor and not have to change programming

Unless you live on the top of a mountain can I see you being able to overcharge a pack.

First time you hit the throttle you drop a couple of volts which takes a lot more to put back.
People often ask if you can charge it whilst riding and the answer is a solid NO.

You would need to ride up and down a hill all day for a week and it would be some pretty spectacular exercise!

BTW big bore - top work mate
Cowardly duck - well done on the sale- after all a basically new bike

So the pack is a 20s 7p pack built from Samsung 50E 21700 cells. Seems pretty good so far..I don't really need regen, thanks for the link to that thread.. seeing as how the controller is the last thing to be modded on the bike.. For all of you who have changed it do you really notice a difference? My only interest is more range.. Im happy enough with the power output, Just wanted to see if a controller really makes a huge diff with quality of power rather than adding additional power...
 
First charge on first homemade pack (21s 7p Sony VTC6) with ride tests and tuning the controller complete. The bike is now an absolute rocket ship now. Im Using the 300 amp Ant-Bluetooth BMS and Im very happy to being able to completely turn the BMS off, monitor individual cell voltages, balance on demand and check battery temps after rides or during charging. My hope is, that having the option to turn off the BMS completely, is an added safety factor. No vampire drain or odd imbalances after months of sitting compared to a packs I've had in the past, built by the best on ES with an "alway on BMS." What preceded this, was that I getting fed up with a lack of good battery options.

The best pack builder I knew on ES got out of the battery building biz and I basically got fed up with being overcharged for sub par battery packs from China. The one that came out of the bike cost me just over $2k and was claimed to be made specifically for the Stealth Bomber, with fancy 2170 cells. That pack sagged around 12 volts when new at around 5kW, and never came close to hitting its stated capacity. I was sick and tired, of being sick and tired with the low quality and low output packs I purchased.

So, I bought a few crates of Sony VTC6 cells from what was left of Alta Motors (Black Friday discounted). The BMS, heat shrink and black hot glue sticks from came from Aliexpress. All said and done, I think I have $600 total in my pack. I triple stacked the serial connections with the thickest copper plated nickel my spot welder would handle. I found the entire process to be very methodical and even enjoyable even though it is a very simple pack design. However simplicity doesn't make things any less flammable if you screw up. The Ant BMS Bluetooth app is decent and informative. The MQCON Bluetooth app for the Sabvoton is surprisingly effective and consitant making on the fly tuning changes easy and quick. Via the MQCON app, it would take me about 15 seconds to reduce the power of the bike from 12kW to 750 watts to let someone else ride the bike.

After multiple 12kW blasts the battery temps peak at around 33c (91 degrees F) with around 6-8 volts of sag. The Sabvoton has a nice progressive throttle hit that rolls the power on really nicely. Remember how nearly all stock Bombers would loop out if you accidentally grab the throttle when off the bike? That has been programmed out completely and when riding next to stock Bombers I can hear their controller now, easily. The power band feels strikingly similar to a well designed ICE twin turbo system, with a big fat mid range boost in torque (completely different feeling than the stock controller). I reduced Regen to 1/3 strength of a typical stock Bomber and it's always on whenever I'm not actively using the throttle (just like Im used to in my electric cars). Flux weakening and boost mode have been turned off for now, as this setup has already a handful and I'd rather not force anymore heat into the big old Crystalyte (which has been updated with new bearings, phase wires and a moto rim and tire).

I'd like to thank You CowardlyDuck for the gentle nudge out of the nest. His videos provided all the motivation I needed.
 

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