E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

When I built that wheel I had to build it on my bike, because the hub was too wide to fit in my truing stand. I bought the stand in the first place to build that wheel, then I couldn't use. It needs to open about an inch more that it can. Luckily I graduated first in my class from MacGyver university. This is a fence latch cut in half, attached to 2 L brackets from the hardware store. It worked out great because it allows me to center the hub in the stand, and compensate for slight inaccuracy's in this low cost stand.

 
Luckily I had another rim, and this time screw the micrometers. I really liked using a truing stand this time, it was a lot easier then building the wheel on the bike. In just a few hours I was done. I had to drill all the holes out to fit 10g spokes. This time I didn't over tighten any of the spokes.

 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Luckily I had another rim, and this time screw the micrometers. I really liked using a truing stand this time, it was a lot easier then building the wheel on the bike. In just a few hours I was done. I had to drill all the holes out to fit 10g spokes. This time I didn't over tighten any of the spokes.

Click to expand...

You should get some M6 stainless steel washers and put those between your spoke nipple and rim, they will distribute the spoke tension load over a wider surface and that may keep this from happening again.
 
Yea building on a stand is wayy easier.. Even with my super high tech 2x4 wheel stand helped..
BTW are you using a bicycle rim? If so that may also be leading to the cracking..
 
Rix said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
Luckily I had another rim, and this time screw the micrometers. I really liked using a truing stand this time, it was a lot easier then building the wheel on the bike. In just a few hours I was done. I had to drill all the holes out to fit 10g spokes. This time I didn't over tighten any of the spokes.

Click to expand...

You should get some M6 stainless steel washers and put those between your spoke nipple and rim, they will distribute the spoke tension load over a wider surface and that may keep this from happening again.
Click to expand...

Hopefully there won't be a problem. None of the nipples are deforming the rim this time. These rims are actually very strong double wall alloy, but nothing is indestructible. I trashed the stock rim when I hit a curb riding late one night. I've learned the hard way that the spokes don't need to be break wind tight.

One thing I did wrong this time is I forgot, and crossed the valve stem hole, instead of the going to other way, but I tested using my air chuck, and it doesn't seem to be much of a problem so I'm not going to redo the whole thing just to fix that.

It's nice having more than one bike though, because for the last week I've been riding my fatty around. The fatty has been sitting idle most of the summer, but unlike gas bikes, electric bikes don't really care if you neglect them for long periods.
 
I think this was my third rear tire this year.

With my controller set for 60 amps my bike will pull 4500w in the power zone of acceleration. My stock battery never seemed to be able to do that.

My sons B52 will out accelerate me even taking my 50 lb disadvantage into account, so his bike really is pretty fast.. With my ca set for 65 amp it's a lot closer. Top speed is about the same on both bikes, 50 plus. I have about 50 X his range though.
 
I ride my bike around w my 7 year old son on some times... 50 lbs is crazyness to the power of the bike. totally different experience. On the hills that I could go up easily, with my son on its borderline struggling..
 
50069415707_d8112cccae_z.jpg


Maybe I can wheelie up it???
 
So i went back through the thread looking up amp settings and looks like as im sure everyone knows some bombers were set at 65 later ones were 60. TD and I think Rix you have played around w this w your new battery set up.. any downfalls to setting it to 65?
TD we both have 35AH batteries, different cells but same amps....
 
1abv said:
So i went back through the thread looking up amp settings and looks like as im sure everyone knows some bombers were set at 65 later ones were 60. TD and I think Rix you have played around w this w your new battery set up.. any downfalls to setting it to 65?
TD we both have 35AH batteries, different cells but same amps....
Click to expand...

I feel like my bike was made to run 65 amp, but at the last minute Stealth decided to play it safe and go with a 60 amp setting. Set for 60 amp it limits a little under acceleration, but set for 65 amp it doesn't. It accelerates faster on 65 amp, but it makes a lot more heat doing it. I think that's why Stealth added a temperature sensor to the B52s. If I lived in a milder climate I'd run it at 65 amp all the time. There's no difference in top speed either way.
 
One things for sure, the difference between running 60 amp, or 65 amp is pretty small, but the difference between 18ah, and 35ah is huge. Ever since Alex made his first 35 ah battery I knew right away that would be heaven, and it is.
 
Hello, I am looking to buy a moto seat from the H-52. Anyone know of any used/second hand new for sale?

I don’t want to use one of the Chinese clone seats. I use the bicycle seat now. Thanks.
 
Thx for the info! I gonna give it a whirl. I'm going to add a temp gauge for the controller. Right now I use temp strips but it would be good to have something visible while riding.

I'm interested to see how our packs perform...

Sanyo GA3500 18650 cells vs Samsung 50E 21700 Cells..
looks like you have slightly higher discharge 10 vs 9.8

Physically I think my pack is a tiny bit physically bigger..this may be due battery type or how it was built.. based on the vid I think yours was taped together? could be wrong.. Mine was made w the plastic spacers so the batteries have gaps. This made for quite a tight fit in my bike.. It also looks like your BMS is on the top of the pack where mine had to be at the front due to the physical size of the pack.

6 of one 1/2 doz of the other...

either way cant go wrong!
 
Now that I have a lot of experience with these Shimano M8000 brakes I can better compare them to my stock MT2

These Shimano's have a little stronger stopping power than the MT2. I've also noticed they get really hot when riding hard. Comparing the pad size, the Shimano pads are a little smaller. That probably contributes to the high heat. They also wear out faster than the MT2 pads too. That's probably why Shimano offers brake pads with, and without cooling fins for these brakes. I think from now on I'm only going to buy the ones with the cooling fins. I really like being able to adjust the lever reach, which you can't do with the Magura's.

In the end these brakes have good stopping power, and the price is right, but I don't think they were meant for a bike as heavy as a bomber. The pads wear out quickly, and make a lot of heat. I think the MT5s with 4 pistons are better suited for Bombers. I like having adjustable levers though, so next time I think I'll be looking at 4 piston Shimano's.

 
About the Shimanos..
I went from the magura MT5, the older ones single pot to the Saints. I've used the following set ups..
Shimano Saint m820
H03C Metallic Disc Brake pads
SM-RT86 rotors (aluminum core sandwiched by steel faces)
This package has the best stopping power and pad longevity was well beyond my maguras at least double the life span for both the rotors and pads. I did need to play with the spacers to get just the right setup on the rotors..

Latest setup
Truckerco Sintered Metallic Disc- these do not have any fins on them.
SM-RT76 rotors (all steel)

I did notice a difference in lever feel. The shimano pads bite in a bit harder but the overall stopping power is the same.
As far as wear Im still on my first pair of Truckerco pads so too soon to tell. As far as heat dissipation im not sold on the fins. if it does help its nominal. I use the crap out of my brakes on very steep downhills. Since switching to double pot shimanos my trust / saftey level is in another playing field. Also the dual adjustable levers makes it easy to dial in lever travel...
 
Hey kids... Use this info at your as you will... FIrst of all thanks for the responses about the 60 vs 65v controller thing. At the same time that I posted that I also emailed Stealth... heres what i found out..

"I believe this change would have happened to reduce the chances of overheating the controllers. I would advise just to leave the settings as is."

There ya go... use or ignore...
 
TBH 60/65A is not gonna make much difference in heat. At 72V, that's 360W and will barely register unless your hauling it up big hills or on really hot days.

Way back in 2012 in this thread I kills my Fighter motor in it's stock 3Kw form just by riding it in soft sand on a hot day. It might have survived if limited to less than 25A or so, but realistically it was the phase amps and low speed bogging it down in the sand that killed it.

After all my cooling mods I was pushing north of ~125A (250A phase) 6.5KW through my poor little 35mm leaf without issue. It all just depends on the conditions and heat dissipation capabilities of the motor. With a few simple cooling mods like Ferro Fluid and Hub-Sinks to the fat motor's they put on the Bomber you could easily get 100A into them without issue IMO. Then these bikes would really come alive. :mrgreen:

***Edit*** reread the previous post and see it's more talking about controllers. It's a similar story though. A few simple cooling mods and you can easily increase the capabilities. In my case I simply sandwiched thermal padding between the controller and the frame and added extra heat-sinks more than doubling the rated controller power capabilities with ease.

Cheers
 
Every bike factory always warns against changing anything. Even Harley does it, but then they have a catalog of accessories as thick as a New York phone book so you can change everything.



 
Hello all,

Can anyone tell me what is involved in switching from a triple crown to a single crown fork on a Stealth Bomber please?
 
So I managed to install a Sabo 72150 into my Stealth B52 which has what I believe to be the Crystalyte 5304. It is very fast now, with flux weakening ive hit 50 mph and may have had a couple more to go. The torque is also more than respectable, although not close to a QS205 with the same controller. I think the 205 I have is wired for Torque as with the 150 amp Sabo on it the front wheel lifts off the ground dangerously easily. I already got thrown off once. While the Clyte does not have that kind of pull, like I said before it is more than respectable. Ill try to do some time runs and see what i get. I will def say that the little Clyte controller that came with it was really underutilizing the motor. Now whether or not it blows up in a week or two with this kind of current remains to be seen. But until that happens I highly recommend this mod. Next Im thinking of switching to a single crown fork. Any pointers or advice on that one?
 
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