E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Hey TV,
Have you hit LVC on your battery pack yet? if so how may amps did it you use to hit LVC?

Thanks fella
 
1abv said:
Hey TV,
Have you hit LVC on your battery pack yet? if so how may amps did it you use to hit LVC?

Thanks fella

I think the most I've gone was about 32ah once or twice, and the ca was limiting the low voltage a lot at the time under big throttle. I have the ca set for about 62v I think, maybe even 61.5 I can't remember. It was definitely sagging down to the limit, and probably would have gone farther if the ca didn't step in. Max speed was down to barely 40 mph, but I felt like that was pretty good at the time, and I don't think there was much left. They call this battery 35ah, but on paper it looks more like 34ah to me, and I doubt I can get all of that. I was probably real close to locking out at 32ah.

I've seen about 26ah more often, and it's still running real good at that point. It sags to about 63 or 64 v at that point so it isn't hitting the LVC at that point, and will still do about 50 mph. The first 10ah are fast, the second 10 are real good, and the third 10 are still pretty good.It gets noticeably weaker when it gets to 30ah.

I don't really like running the battery down to 30ah, but it sure is nice to be able to. I look at anything after 30ah as emergency power to get home.
 
I love my Fox 40 Forks. They're so amazing. To start off with, they're silent in operation unlike the older stock RST forks that were clanky and stiff. These forks compress smoothly and softly over mild bumps and dips, but if you hit a hard sharp edged pothole the damping stiffens up really fast. That being said I feel like they're more on the performance side than the soft cushy side, but I haven't really played around much with the adjustments. I've made a couple of minor adjustments to the air pressure, and the compression damping, but I don't feel the need to do more than that.

The way I have them set up the ride feels firm and on the sporting side. With 40 mm legs these forks don't flex at all. What sets these forks apart is the way they keep the tire in contact with the road. No matter how rough the pavement gets, or how fast I go, the tire always feels like it has suction cups keeping it stuck to the road surface. I'm still amazed after a whole season of riding. After 7 years of riding my same familiar paths, I lean into a turn like I always have, only to realize I'm going pretty slow. The same turn used to feel so fast I was afraid the front tire would slid out from under me. Now it's like come on grandma give it the gas. I have to admit these forks are way above my pay grade.

 
Theodore,

Your bike always looks great! Crazy how good suspension and a lot of travel keeps your tires stuck to the ground to both go quicker and stop faster......you have learned what most will never know.

Tom
 
litespeed said:
Theodore,

Your bike always looks great! Crazy how good suspension and a lot of travel keeps your tires stuck to the ground to both go quicker and stop faster......you have learned what most will never know.

Tom

Thanks Tom. One of the things I love about eBikes is they're so easy to keep clean.
 
FL bomber said:
1abv would you be able to snap a close up photo. Your hall wires and thermostat sensor wires are ran through the frame? Would I have to mess with the cav3 as right now I am not utilizing my motors thermostat wire.
Thanks for the help. 🍺🍻

50521999457_8039d8b7ce_z.jpg


You can see the stock flimsy part right above the Vboxx. The thicker piece is what was welded as a reinforcement and its been faultless.
 
https://youtu.be/UbWG6Dc258M

I love loaning my bike to others, some days I’m properly impressed with their skills

This young man made it dance :)
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
I goty new chain, no more slapin. In case anyone wants to know a Bomber chain has 94 rollers


With the UFO in there the axle is a bit different needs 95 :)

Half link 3/32 chain is a pita to push pins out with “normal” chain tool so I spent the $70 odd bucks and ordered from stealth yesterday,

Had a breakage with my Golf6R stage 3 that needed a bit more than fox 40 money to fix but..... here we are
(Now forged wossner pistons and unbroken again.)
promise I’ll spend that before sabvoton.
 
http://tbsm.com.au/bike-parts/suspension/forks-dual-crown/2019-fox-40-float-26-203-grip-2-fork-22659

Is this the shock to get Alex / Theo?

Bike stuffed the original at perhaps 4000kms and stealth hooked me up with a 2nd hand usd-8 and now we are at 10,000k I’d love to show the bike some love as it has got me through some tough times.
 
KarlJ said:
http://tbsm.com.au/bike-parts/suspension/forks-dual-crown/2019-fox-40-float-26-203-grip-2-fork-22659

Is this the shock to get Alex / Theo?

Bike stuffed the original at perhaps 4000kms and stealth hooked me up with a 2nd hand usd-8 and now we are at 10,000k I’d love to show the bike some love as it has got me through some tough times.

Yeah that's the one. It's actually a step up from the one I have. Mine is a Elite model, that's the top of the line, Factory model. The Elite is less expensive, but hard to find because they're supposed to be only offered to manufacturers. If that one is even better than the one I have it must be the best one ever made.
 
Is anyone familiar with these Onyx eBikes. These go 60 mph. What I don't understand is it says it has a max of 5200w, but has a "High Torque Peak 3000W High Efficiency Hub Motor". What's that mean? I think I would buy one of these before a Sur Ron. Not super wild about the looks of either bike though, kind of makes mine look better to me.

ONYXMOTORBIKES-1-720x.jpg


https://www.onyxmotorbikes.com/
 
KarlJ said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
I goty new chain, no more slapin. In case anyone wants to know a Bomber chain has 94 rollers


With the UFO in there the axle is a bit different needs 95 :)

Half link 3/32 chain is a pita to push pins out with “normal” chain tool so I spent the $70 odd bucks and ordered from stealth yesterday,

Had a breakage with my Golf6R stage 3 that needed a bit more than fox 40 money to fix but..... here we are
(Now forged wossner pistons and unbroken again.)
promise I’ll spend that before sabvoton.

I didn't really have any problem using this little chain tool, except I accidentally pushed to pin all the way out, and it took some cussing to get it started back in.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Park-Tool-CT-5-Compact-Bicycle-Chain-Breaker-Mini-Chain-Tool/193612538282?epid=710094085&hash=item2d1434e1aa:g:NJMAAOSwqnlcCAEt
 
BIG update for all you stealth owners ....Schwalbe have stopped making the Crazy Bob tyres!!!!

I ordered a new front sproket, chain and a tyre - "consumable spend" and they will supply the maxis hookworm in 24 x 2.5"
BUT that they are now also out of production.

Hit your local store that has them and buy them up!

I'm still waiting on a solution to lace up the 5403 into a 19" moto rim as apparently the spokes in the correct length are tough to find too.
 
KarlJ said:
BIG update for all you stealth owners ....Schwalbe have stopped making the Crazy Bob tyres!!!!

I ordered a new front sproket, chain and a tyre - "consumable spend" and they will supply the maxis hookworm in 24 x 2.5"
BUT that they are now also out of production.

Hit your local store that has them and buy them up!

I'm still waiting on a solution to lace up the 5403 into a 19" moto rim as apparently the spokes in the correct length are tough to find too.

Man, that is bad news Karl. This will be my second choice. They fit my wide rims real good, but on the skinny stock rims the profile is a little weird. They're better than most of the alternatives though.

https://luxlow.com/products-page/ll-bicycle-tires-classic-fat-tire-cruiser-mega-chopper-slicks/tire-24x-3-city-slick-chopper-cruiser-bicycle-tire/
 
20201029_154944 (Medium).jpg
Hi All - 1st time poster.
I got my B52 new about 4 or 5 months ago and have done about 6000km so far of mostly on road (commuting to/from work).
I've read thru most of this forum and there is lots of great information.
All i have done to mine so far is the fenders as i ride it in all weather and a gel seat cover so i don't get a sore bum.

One problem for me is there is the odd bit of high speed off road stuff i can also do en route and i want to be able to hit things at speed and not worry about popping my flimsy bicycle tyres. Just got another rear flat this morning so i want to move to a more permanent fix with the MC rim and a heavier duty tyre.

1: Can anyone recommend someone in Melbourne (SE suburbs) who can (and has before) lace a MC rim? Sounds like a 17x1.4" is the go from reading here.
2: If i could keep my chain clean i'd almost have a maintenance free ride - anyone had any luck making a chain guard to protect the chain from water/mud spray from all sides (top/bottom/left/right/front/back)? Mine is certainly happier since i've tried to stick totally on-road when its wet so there is less grit getting on the chain but its still a problem.
3: Anyone managed to replace the chain with a belt drive?
4: Anyone in Victoria recommend some suitable riding locations? (ride ktm 350 and mtn bike as well of course) I don't know anyone close with something as quick.
5: In the photo, you will notice a velomobile shell - we rotomould "Rotovelo" here - i'll be replacing my one with a new one soon and be getting electric assist - anyone want to suggest a hub motor system? Don't need high power due to the aero as you can easily get yourself into trouble... Probably 500w is plenty, but i still want strong regen.
 
I actually have my 5403 at Stealth in Dandenong waiting for the right spokes to relace it into a 19" moto rim.

The solution for flats is the motorcycle tube - have not had any flats since and i'm almost down to the canvas on the crazy bob thats on it now.

I did have the question if anyone had tried these https://www.pushys.com.au/maxxis-holy-roller-24x2-40-bmx-tyre.html
as i just grabbed a hookworm from stealth but they are pretty dear!

Replacing the chain with a belt is simply out of the question as not enough width and not much if anything other than suntour bits bolt to the Vbox. At 6000kms i'm recommending removing the front sproket and re-installing it 90 deg as it really only wears in the power stroke of your legs hence 1/2 of it ends up flogged to bits and the other half still looks good.
I changes mine today with a new chain and i'm substantially poorer as a result!
I'm happy to pay it though! Now restrictions have lifted i'm up north in Diamond creek but happy to ride about anywhere!

K
 
KarlJ said:
http://tbsm.com.au/bike-parts/suspension/forks-dual-crown/2019-fox-40-float-26-203-grip-2-fork-22659

Is this the shock to get Alex / Theo?

Bike stuffed the original at perhaps 4000kms and stealth hooked me up with a 2nd hand usd-8 and now we are at 10,000k I’d love to show the bike some love as it has got me through some tough times.

Karl,
Depends on what your looking for. Those forks are defiantly a huge step up from the stock turds .... did I say turds?? because they are turds.. anyway...

The fox forks are great.... as long as you are happy in the world of fox or are a suspension guru. The problem that I have with ALL bicycle forks is that the manufactures do not want anyone else but themselves working on them. The most you may get are oil spec and height. Try to get other parts.. its a pain in the ass.. Also they use air springs not a fan....

Having a fork that a local tuner can modify easily for me is key. Have all metal internals is another point I like. yahama WR450's used to have plastic base valve that would crack over time. These were a known failure point. Several aftermarket tuners replaced these with metal. I like choices..

which brings me to air springs.... Not a a fan.. Im not concerned with the weight loss of air springs over steel springs. I would rather have the stability of a steel spring rather than being worried about leaks, temperature differentials, how much air did I put in a week ago??. Also in my experience steel springs are smoother. I have not ridden the fox 40's specifically but I have ridden other fox forks, Rock shocks, Manitou and several KTM' and Hondas with air forks and they all felt harsh.

This is why I went with a bicycle fork (888's) with the guts ripped out and avalanche racing internals installed. The valving is custom tailored to you and your riding style specifically. And they have a boat load of options to choose from. They are all metal and any competent moto tuner and adjust them down the road.

Not sure what kind of riding you do and how hard you are on suspension. I ride 90% off-road and beat on my poor little unit. You may be totally happy with the Fox 40's will defiantly be a huge upgrade and im sure you will dig them but there are alternatives and upgrades to them..

http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com/

They do work on fox as well

BTW to put it in perspective..
im nuts and am looking at getting a custom ractech shock built for my bike..because...im nuts... I'll post updates on how it goes...

Either way im sure you will be happy..
 
TimL said:
20201029_154944 (Medium).jpg
Hi All - 1st time poster.
I got my B52 new about 4 or 5 months ago and have done about 6000km so far of mostly on road (commuting to/from work).
I've read thru most of this forum and there is lots of great information.
All i have done to mine so far is the fenders as i ride it in all weather and a gel seat cover so i don't get a sore bum.

One problem for me is there is the odd bit of high speed off road stuff i can also do en route and i want to be able to hit things at speed and not worry about popping my flimsy bicycle tyres. Just got another rear flat this morning so i want to move to a more permanent fix with the MC rim and a heavier duty tyre.

1: Can anyone recommend someone in Melbourne (SE suburbs) who can (and has before) lace a MC rim? Sounds like a 17x1.4" is the go from reading here.
2: If i could keep my chain clean i'd almost have a maintenance free ride - anyone had any luck making a chain guard to protect the chain from water/mud spray from all sides (top/bottom/left/right/front/back)? Mine is certainly happier since i've tried to stick totally on-road when its wet so there is less grit getting on the chain but its still a problem.
3: Anyone managed to replace the chain with a belt drive?
4: Anyone in Victoria recommend some suitable riding locations? (ride ktm 350 and mtn bike as well of course) I don't know anyone close with something as quick.
5: In the photo, you will notice a velomobile shell - we rotomould "Rotovelo" here - i'll be replacing my one with a new one soon and be getting electric assist - anyone want to suggest a hub motor system? Don't need high power due to the aero as you can easily get yourself into trouble... Probably 500w is plenty, but i still want strong regen.

Hi Tim, welcome to the thread. You got you work cut out for you if you want to lace that motor to a MC rim. Problem is, you have the UFO series motor. If you look on the hub motor spoke flange, you will notice that the holes are drilled asymmetrically in groups of 2. The space between the spoke groups of 2 is narrower than spacing between each set of drilled spoke holes. Because the MC rims have holes drilled at angles, they don't line up with the hub flange. One of the members on here laced an MC rim to a crown TC4040 motor, which also has the spoke holes on the motor flange drilled asymmetrically in groups of 2. To get it to work, he had to order two different lengths of spokes to get the rim hole angles to line up with the hub flange holes. And it worked great. But thats what you are looking at doing whether you go with a 17" or 19" MC rim.
 
TimL said:
5: In the photo, you will notice a velomobile shell - we rotomould "Rotovelo" here - i'll be replacing my one with a new one soon and be getting electric assist - anyone want to suggest a hub motor system? Don't need high power due to the aero as you can easily get yourself into trouble... Probably 500w is plenty, but i still want strong regen.

Regarding the hub motor system, what are your goals? Are you looking for something that is direct drive or something geared with a clutch? How important is weight for your application? How important is efficiency for your application? What about cost? Do you need something that could go to a higher wattage value in the future?

A good all-around choice, if not a bit on the expensive side, would be a MAC geared hub motor, with the appropriate winding selected for your target cruising speed, voltage and drive wheel size. At 500W, the clutch would likely last the life of the velo(The composite clutch can get about 5,000-10,000 miles when run at 1500W peak so long as the phase current is kept in check and the current is throttled back if the motor gets too hot), and it can be mechanically decoupled from the pedal drivetrain to eliminate cogging losses so that the bike remains easy to pedal if the battery runs dead. You'll need a controller that allows the applied voltage to be varied so that you don't overheat the motor going up steep hills at low speeds. I'd recommend a FOC type such as the Phaserunner.

The Rotovelo has a CdA of 0.15 m^2, which is far better than any upright diamondframe bike, but not all that good as far as commercially available velomobiles go(It's about 1.5x the CdA of a WAW or Quest, 2.5x that of a DF XL, 5x that of a Milan SL). 500W should be good for 35 mph or so on flat ground with no wind, which given that there is no suspension, such a speed is only practical to maintain on smooth roads. The lack of suspension could really get you in trouble here if you decide to use a higher-powered motor. 1,500W would probably get it to 60 mph. If the Rotovelo had a suspension, it would probably safely be capable of maintaining car-like speeds when enough power is available to do so, and be a lot more comfortable to ride. The Rotovelo is a durable design, otherwise, whereas its competitors are comparatively fragile. The Rotovelo could also benefit by having attachable pieces made to seal up the chainline to keep dust, water, and debris away from the chain, lowering the maintenance requirements for the drivetrain and improving chain/idler/cassette/crankset/derailleur lifespan, and if sealing the rear up where the rear derailleur and cassette and rear wheel is exposed, it would likely reduce drag at least slightly.

Overall, I think the Rotovelo is a promising design, but a few modifications would dramatically improve it. I don't imagine those changes would be easy to make though. I couldn't afford one anyway(especially given the $AUS to $US exchange rate), so I built my own velomobile off of a KMX frame kit, and it has front suspension.
 
I love my Fox 40 Forks.
Stiff enough to resist twisting with a front hub motor, assuming two very strong torque arms no play?



1abv said:
a fork that a local tuner can modify easily for me is key. Have all metal internals is another point I like. yahama WR450's

stability of a steel spring

a bicycle fork (888's)
...
http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com

What do you advise wrt the above?

Talking on a different cargo frame style, multiple motors, low speed, no "fun" just utility

all about the fork only, maybe I'll divert to a dedicated thread if valuable responses come in. . .


 
john61ct said:
I love my Fox 40 Forks.
Stiff enough to resist twisting with a front hub motor, assuming two very strong torque arms no play?



1abv said:
a fork that a local tuner can modify easily for me is key. Have all metal internals is another point I like. yahama WR450's

stability of a steel spring

a bicycle fork (888's)
...
http://www.avalanchedownhillracing.com

What do you advise wrt the above?

Talking on a different cargo frame style, multiple motors, low speed, no "fun" just utility

all about the fork only, maybe I'll divert to a dedicated thread if valuable responses come in. . .

I don't think you'd want Fox 40s on a bike such as you describe. Most of what they offer would be wasted on a bike like that. Look for something like these. https://enduroebikes.com/product/rockshox-boxxer-suspension-forks/
 
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