E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[1abv]

Billy,
I looped my bike the first day I had it adjusting the suspension while holding on to the throttle that I didn't realize was on! My rims are the same size front to back. I thought at some point that stealth was offering moto rims on the rear or am I on crack?


Cozen
Nice pics w the golden gate behind you!

TV
Does that stuff make a mess for you when a puncture occurs then after you want to change the tube/tire?

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

TV
Does that stuff make a mess for you when a puncture occurs then after you want to change the tube/tire?

Not always, but often it does. It's not a big deal though, because slime is highly water soluble so the mess is easily washed away. I used to think slime wasn't worth a crap, but then I learned 3 things about it. 1. Buy the kind for tubeless tires. Even though we have tubes, it works better in a tube than the kind they market for bicycles which is slightly different. 2. Use about twice as much as they recommend in your tire. 3. If you happen to get a flat, fill the tire back up with air immediately. This happened to me on several occasions, where my tire went flat, and I filled it back up, and weeks went by with no loss of pressure.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

I'm afraid Stealth is wasting their money on Castaglione. The American street market is where it's at, and he probably doesn't know squat about it. Stealth doesn't need to reinvent the wheel to dominate the American market.

Almost all of the new fast eBikes suddenly coming out in the last 3 or 4 years, which are all the rage, have bench style seats. Stealth should build a longer seat sub frame for a somewhat longer seat than the one I adapted to my bike. I don't want to make mine longer because I'm afraid the stock sub frame might break off if I put my weight further back. Next add fenders and lights, and a more street oriented display that's higher in the line of sight. My 24" x 65mm rims make my bike look bad ass compared to the stinky little wheels on an Onyx, or Sur Ron, or the stubby fat 20 inchers on Super 73s. Besides that, they also have superior function on the street. No changes are needed to the rest of the frame, but something that would be hard for me to do, but easy if I was a factory is, I would experiment with adding a little shape to the side covers. This could have two added benefits. 1. add a little extra styling, and 2. allow the battery to extend outward a little past the edge of the main frame for increased battery capacity.

Most of the young new riders I meet now have never heard of Stealth. They love my bikes looks, but they don't know it didn't come that way from the factory. When I tell them my bike is a 2013 model they're absolutely, and universally blown away. Stealth truly has always been light years ahead of their time, but the time is now. Build it and they will come.

 

[1abv]

good day sunshine....

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Night time jungle riding with some one wheels, and euc's

 

[1abv]

its a dry heat....

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Is it worth it to buy that magnetic fluid to put in your motor, and if you do, what else do you have to do to keep it in there?

 

[Cozen89]

I know most of you own bombers, but for us little guys, has anyone gone to a 72v Battery on their F37? Stealth says the stock controller and motor can handle it. Can anyone share their experience or details on the process? Thanks!!

Go back to pages 100-300, you will see several Fighters with 72 volt packs. Specifically Hyena's Fighter was modded to 10+kw back when 5kw was the powerhouse standard.

Thanks, I’ve been trying to go through it but there are a looooot of pages to sort through haha. I’ll keep at it. I may have to set a goal of 5 pages per night

 

[Cozen89]

Sorry another noob question. I may have come across a good deal on some 2019 fox 40 forks. Will these fit on the f37 without changing the geometry too much?

I also received a new 3D print for my faceplate/headlight mount. This one has a much steeper angle to help aim the headlight lower. I’ll try and get some better pics outside when it’s not dark out.

 

[litespeed]

Is it worth it to buy that magnetic fluid to put in your motor, and if you do, what else do you have to do to keep it in there?

Yes it is Theodore, very much worth it. I’d recommend Hubsinks also. It turned my motor from a space heater to a cool running machine. For me and my riding style Hubsinks/ferro fluid was the biggest improvement I’d ever gained in e-biking.

Tom

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Is it worth it to buy that magnetic fluid to put in your motor, and if you do, what else do you have to do to keep it in there?

Yes it is Theodore, very much worth it. I’d recommend Hubsinks also. It turned my motor from a space heater to a cool running machine. For me and my riding style Hubsinks/ferro fluid was the biggest improvement I’d ever gained in e-biking.

Tom

Thanks for the good info Tom. Do you have to seal the motor side covers or anything to keep the stuff in there? Do you think it increases motor drag?

 

[1abv]

Is it worth it to buy that magnetic fluid to put in your motor, and if you do, what else do you have to do to keep it in there?

Yes it is Theodore, very much worth it. I’d recommend Hubsinks also. It turned my motor from a space heater to a cool running machine. For me and my riding style Hubsinks/ferro fluid was the biggest improvement I’d ever gained in e-biking.

Tom

Thanks for the good info Tom. Do you have to seal the motor side covers or anything to keep the stuff in there? Do you think it increases motor drag?

Totally worth it if you are having overheating issues. If not I wouldn't bother. You don't need to do anything to seal the motor.
I do not notice any drag at all.

You do need a way to get it into the motor. I had to drill a hole close to the outside edge of the motor. I also taped and installed a bolt.
Before installing the Ferro Fluid it was borderline useless for serious off-road. Adding the fluid kept the temps much lower for longer and now I can beat on it pretty good. I still would like to get it about 5 degrees cooler.

I did a test on the same terrain with and without ferro fluid. w/o fluid I could go about 15 min then....I'm waiting to cool down.... with the fluid it would never get to high temps. I have my power shut off at 130 and roll off begins at 105.

A while after that I added Hubsinks. I noticed they didn't necessarily lower the temps but the peaks dropped much faster and the time it took to cool was faster. Not nearly as dramatic as the ferro fluid though. From 125-100 the temps drop quick. Once into the 90's it would take a while to get the temps down lower and usually means dialing back the throttle output to under 1000.

I don't know if I would have bothered if I was riding on relatively flat paved ground unless I was racing. I've never had my bike overheat on pavement w riding in cali in the 90's.


Cozen I like the raw look of the 3d print. very cool detail.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Totally worth it if you are having overheating issues. If not I wouldn't bother. You don't need to do anything to seal the motor.
I do not notice any drag at all.

You do need a way to get it into the motor. I had to drill a hole close to the outside edge of the motor. I also taped and installed a bolt.
Before installing the Ferro Fluid it was borderline useless for serious off-road. Adding the fluid kept the temps much lower for longer and now I can beat on it pretty good. I still would like to get it about 5 degrees cooler.

I did a test on the same terrain with and without ferro fluid. w/o fluid I could go about 15 min then....I'm waiting to cool down.... with the fluid it would never get to high temps. I have my power shut off at 130 and roll off begins at 105.

A while after that I added Hubsinks. I noticed they didn't necessarily lower the temps but the peaks dropped much faster and the time it took to cool was faster. Not nearly as dramatic as the ferro fluid though. From 125-100 the temps drop quick. Once into the 90's it would take a while to get the temps down lower and usually means dialing back the throttle output to under 1000.

I don't know if I would have bothered if I was riding on relatively flat paved ground unless I was racing. I've never had my bike overheat on pavement w riding in cali in the 90's.

Is it not possible to put it in through one of the 2 condensate holes in the motor side plate on the right side?

 

[1abv]

take a look at this video from the grin guys.. looks like they set it up so maybe you don't need to drill anymore.

https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/statorade.html

 

[Cowardlyduck]

Yes ferro fluid is worth it...even if your not overheating as the increased efficiency from a cooler running motor will get you more range.

Do not drill a hole near the outside edge though...that is where the windings are. 1abv, you're lucky you didn't hit the windings!

As per the ferro fluid instructions, if you need to drill a hole, do it as close as possible to the axle, or better yet use one of the existing disc rotor bolt holes and using a smaller drill bit carefully drill all the way through. That way it gets sealed when you reinstall the disc rotor bolts with some locktight.

If you already have a hole, just use that and enlarge if necessary. I've added ferro fluid to countless hub motors including small scooter motors and it always helps. It does need to be topped up about once a year with regular riding, but that's no big deal compared to it's benefits.

Cheers

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Thanks for all the tips on the ferro fluid, I knew you guys would know a lot about it. Grin sells 10 ml on Amazon for $28. I'm guessing 8 ml will be about right for my bomber motor?

 

[moonkagliwicee]

https://youtu.be/LAxRfpsiOSE

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

https://youtu.be/LAxRfpsiOSE

Thanks moonkagliwicee, this video is good because they say exactly how much fluid they use in a qs205 motor, and it's not much.

 

[1abv]

Yes ferro fluid is worth it...even if your not overheating as the increased efficiency from a cooler running motor will get you more range.

Do not drill a hole near the outside edge though...that is where the windings are. 1abv, you're lucky you didn't hit the windings!

As per the ferro fluid instructions, if you need to drill a hole, do it as close as possible to the axle, or better yet use one of the existing disc rotor bolt holes and using a smaller drill bit carefully drill all the way through. That way it gets sealed when you reinstall the disc rotor bolts with some locktight.

If you already have a hole, just use that and enlarge if necessary. I've added ferro fluid to countless hub motors including small scooter motors and it always helps. It does need to be topped up about once a year with regular riding, but that's no big deal compared to it's benefits.

Cheers

Me lucky?? HAHA! That would be nice! Nah no luck here. I was taking my motor apart for other reasons when I drilled it so the only thing I would be drilling into would be a big fat block of wood.

TV do you know what temps your at?

 

[Billy.A]

Can you believe it, happened again!!

riding along minding my own business, next thing a popping noise like the bead slipping over the rim and the rear wheel locks up!!
I jump off to relieve the pressure out of the tube so the wheel will spin when i push the bike and bang the tube pops WTF
Second time in a Month.

was in the middle of no where too, had to push it for what felt like forever till i hit a main road and had to call someone to pick me up...



ive really lost confidence in this tyre now and have ordered a moto rim and tyre off Stealth,
is anyone running the moto rim and tyre and can give me some feedback on it please?..is it the way to go??

was having a great ride too..bummer!!

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Can you believe it, happened again!!

riding along minding my own business, next thing a popping noise like the bead slipping over the rim and the rear wheel locks up!!
I jump off to relieve the pressure out of the tube so the wheel will spin when i push the bike and bang the tube pops WTF
Second time in a Month.

was in the middle of no where too, had to push it for what felt like forever till i hit a main road and had to call someone to pick me up...

puncture.jpg

ive really lost confidence in this tyre now and have ordered a moto rim and tyre off Stealth,
is anyone running the moto rim and tyre and can give me some feedback on it please?..is it the way to go??

was having a great ride too..bummer!!

That's a real bummer Billy. Pushing a Bomber with a flat tire for miles is no walk in the park. Something must be different between your new bike and mine. When my bike was brand new I removed the stock razorback, and installed street tires. I remember it was a very hard tire to get off the rim. On your bike they just hop off.

 

[1abv]

Billy,
First that sucks having to push ye old bomber. I too have been down that road a few times. There was this park by my house that had the crazy plants that left prickers on the ground that looked like little roofing nails. I would always find a few in my tire after a ride. A couple of times they went in so far they popped the tube. sux..

After many different attempts to modify the tire/ rim combo I switched to moto. Now when I get a flat I can ride it out of anything.
I noticed a very very slight difference in handling when I went to moto but well worth it. I use regular moto tubes. I never went w HD moto tubes. Maybe some other peeps here did?

Im sure you cleaned everything before installing the new tire/ tube combo and the pressure was normal.. So the only things I can think of are:

Do any of the spoke heads poke through the rim possibly puncturing the tube?
Is there a crack or deformation on the rim?

Either way I would go moto. I feel that the bikes should come standard w at least a rear moto rim if not both front and rear. Tires last wayyyyyy longer like years vs months and the weight difference is well worth it and you can run lower pressures. The tire selection is greater as well.

With rear bike tire.. that I had for less than 1 year Multiple flats..
W moto rim that I've had since around 2014 maybe 2 or 3 flats. all were ridden back to the truck.

I found an old post of mine about this:


The holmes hobbies 19" x 1.6" wheel : 3lbs

The stock 24" wheel: 1.8 lbs

The stock Duro, MC HD tube, and MR. tuffy strip: 6.6 lbs

Vee Rubber VRM021, IRC regular tube, Rim strip 7.6 lbs

Totals:
Stock w MC tube etc: 8.4 lbs
MC 19": 10.6 lbs

Diff 2.2 LBS
Technically it's probably a touch less because I didn't weigh the rim strip of the stock and also I know some people run slime in their MC tubes as well. Ok Ok fine... I didn't weight the spokes... but you get the idea.

 

[Cozen89]

Pre-ride snap. Showing off the new face plate again. Pretty happy with this one. I think it’s complete.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Cozen89, that's the best looking one yet. It resembles a Stealth fighter jet.

 

[Billy.A]

Pre-ride snap. Showing off the new face plate again. Pretty happy with this one. I think it’s complete.

Looks good buddy, good job :thumb:

That's a real bummer Billy. Pushing a Bomber with a flat tire for miles is no walk in the park. Something must be different between your new bike and mine. When my bike was brand new I removed the stock razorback, and installed street tires. I remember it was a very hard tire to get off the rim. On your bike they just hop off.

yes Theodore, they are definitely a soft tyre. Im guessing there is a defect in the bead, 2 in one Month is not right!

After many different attempts to modify the tire/ rim combo I switched to moto. Now when I get a flat I can ride it out of anything.

Perfecto!!

I noticed a very very slight difference in handling when I went to moto but well worth it. I use regular moto tubes. I never went w HD moto tubes. Maybe some other peeps here did?

Im willing to sacrifice a little bit of handling plus some extra weight to achieve confidence and piece of mind.
plus my bike was fitted factory with a rear rim on the front which is bigger and thicker so the front wheel is an upgrade in itself.

Im sure you cleaned everything before installing the new tire/ tube combo and the pressure was normal.. So the only things I can think of are:

After the first blow out ,i took the bike to Stealth HQ ( i live less than 10 mins away from where they make these machines and the inspection and new rear tyre was fitted by Stealth themselves.

Do any of the spoke heads poke through the rim possibly puncturing the tube?
Is there a crack or deformation on the rim?

No, the spokes and rim tape are good. The bead jumped the rim first, then the tube popped after i got off the bike to release some pressure, its a tyre issue..

Either way I would go moto. I feel that the bikes should come standard w at least a rear moto rim if not both front and rear. Tires last wayyyyyy longer like years vs months and the weight difference is well worth it and you can run lower pressures. The tire selection is greater as well.

Yes, agreed mate. Im not lifting the bike too often so the extra couple of kg shouldn't be an issue i would think.

Thank you everyone for your your sympathetic ears and advice,
Man this bike is constantly evolving!

ive asked the boys at Stealth to sit a black rear rim on my bike and take a photo, want to see how she looks with one red rim and one black rim, if it looks shit, they will send the rim out to be powder coated red..
Have a great day/evening everyone