E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[biknut]

I put on my big boy cloths on and went for the first ride with my new battery and stuff. I'm very happy to report the battery seems tits up all the way. I think my adjustments to the ca worked as best I can tell so far. The max amp still recorded 67 amp as usual. I saw the watts peak over 5700. I only rode 7 miles, because I wanted to make sure the battery wasn't getting hot, or anything. I pulled the cover off and checked it's temperature, and it was only barely more than ambient. I wasn't hammering it, but I cruised a little at 44 mph for a while. I think I can cancel the order for the asbestos underwear.

Now after the first time at speed I can finely say this new Shock feels fabulous, especially compared to stock. This shock makes the ride feel real smooth, but it doesn't pogo. The stock shock always had a harsh ride even with the preload adjusted out. This shock with a lot of preload feels soft with a normal amount of sag. I think this shock has a lot less compression damping. Maybe a lot of the complaints about suspension, that we blame on our heavy rear wheel are in fact caused by a shock absorber that's not set up well for Bomber requirements. That guy on eBay that sold me this shock wasn't lying when he said this slightly more expensive, cheap ass shock wasn't like those other, even cheaper, cheap ass shocks. The new seat works well with a softer ride too, I hardly even noticed it.

Then there's the cruiser bars. I know this is going to be a real disappointment to you guys, but these bars just don't cut it. Even though bumps aren't trying to rip them out of my hands, now acceleration tries to rip them out of my hands. You got to keep your mind on it. These bars are just too hard to hold on to. Twisting the throttle sideways feels weird too. The search for the perfect bars continues.

 

[biknut]

Another set of bars from my crappy handle bar collection. I don't like them. but I think I'll give them a test ride. I'd like them better with about 1" less rise.

 

[fluid2150]

Finally finished my baby. Went for ride to work and back 40km round Tripp. Brakes where rubbing so readjust, better but still a little bit.

Think I'm done modding now crusing

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That is a neat classic look with the brown brooks saddle and handlebars. Nice.

Never knew that a bmx stem was the same as a motorbike one. Thank you. Handle bars are daytonas. And the Brooks seat is beautiful. HAard but good. Just make sure the seat is in the right angle. Otherwise you get a weird sensation afterwords

 

[fluid2150]

Electronaut, the early days

Beautiful, you never truely know how amazing it is the till you have one

 

[biknut]

Electronaut, the early days

Beautiful, you never truely know how amazing it is the till you have one

So true, but all things considered that's probably for the best. If you're into eBikes and you don't own a Stealth, you're better off not knowing about them.

 

[FL bomber]

Theo.. bike looks brand new .Awesome fresh pack .time to ride ..have fun. My bombers new pack is in transit will arrive today.

 

[biknut]

Thanks FL, my bike has over 10,000 miles on it so far. Stealth's are so well made it's easy to keep it in perfect condition. It's so damn good the only place I even dare udder the truth about it is this here, because riders of other brands don't like hearing it.

 

[minde28383]

I see it as bomber frame and other manufactures parts: rims, tires, fork and shock, motor. This bike is as good as company designed and keep quality control on their frame manufacturing process; they put all rest quality components together of other known brands. I believe that this frame is better than other frames.
Other ebike brand riders don't like hearing about bomber because they could not afford bomber at the time they had to choose ebike and now their a ebike broke and they must be grumpy.

 

[biknut]

What I remember about these bars is I bought them about 7 years ago. They were for a motor bicycle that had the cruiser bars I was just trying. These worked a lot better. Very comfortable, and good control. These bars are decent for off road as well as street. The problem with them is, I don't love their square looks, and they look kind of tall. Look. In reality if you're riding, and not looking at them, they feel like 7th heaven. Similar hand position as the stock bars except about 4" higher.

I've never tried these bars on the Stealth. I'm going to give them serious consideration, and see if I can get used to the looks. They'll take some getting used to. There's no question they feel, and work great, but aesthetically speaking they're very sensitive to position.

At any rate I think they work better with the seat, Allex?

 

[minde28383]

If I had to choose between comfort and looks than comfort wins day and night. I don't see nothing bad about square handlebars. I put very similar 22mm bmx square handlebars on my regular bicycle and ride. I'm tall and these handlebars puts me in relaxed position; with regular handlebars (almost straight pipe) I fell like on some race track.

 

[biknut]

I see it as bomber frame and other manufactures parts: rims, tires, fork and shock, motor. This bike is as good as company designed and keep quality control on their frame manufacturing process; they put all rest quality components together of other known brands. I believe that this frame is better than other frames.
Other ebike brand riders don't like hearing about bomber because they could not afford bomber at the time they had to choose ebike and now their a ebike broke and they must be grumpy.

Yes, I think so too. A really great frame, perfect for a fast eBike. Thoughtful and intelligent parts selecting, but not trying to reinvent the wheel, and a no nonsense overall design philosophy. The triumphant of a winner.

 

[biknut]

Surprise I decided the ones I like the best all things considered are the ones I took off in the first place. Now the red bars match the shock at least.

 

[biknut]

It's warm enough today that I can ride my bike to school. It's actually only in the 60s, but I'm going to risk it. I should now be able to make it round trip on a single charge. It's a little over 13 miles each way. Riding at traffic speeds I often use 10ah each way. I couldn't make it round trip before without throttling back part of the way, so I kept a charger at school. This will be my first deep discharge of the new battery.

 

[Rix]

It's warm enough today that I can ride my bike to school. It's actually only in the 60s, but I'm going to risk it. I should now be able to make it round trip on a single charge. It's a little over 13 miles each way. Riding at traffic speeds I often use 10ah each way. I couldn't make it round trip before without throttling back part of the way, so I kept a charger at school. This will be my first deep discharge of the new battery.

So, how did it go?

 

[biknut]

I did a full battery burn today at high speed, first time on my new battery.

My Butt dyno is wildly inaccurate, but I Allex's description of the expected performance for 20s seems pretty accurate. It feels slightly better hot off the charger, then about the same till maybe halfway, and after that a little less than stock. I recorded 68.12 max amp which might be a record, and I saw around 5700w peak, also probably a record for my bike. I don't remember ever seeing more than 67.8 max amp. Now I understand why Allex would recommend a 21s string. For these cells that's probably the hot set up. For my old ass, frankly my dear, I don't give a damn. All in all, there's not much difference in performance from before but I have a little more capacity. That's ok, I didn't really expect it to be any faster.

That's not the case with my new race horse shock absorber though. It's an instant super star. It's ride beats the wholly crap out of the stock DNM. If you say yours works in the dirt, I believe you, but on the street it absolutely sucks compared to this one. This new shock feels soft, but even with less travel it never bottoms, and doesn't pogo. It has 30 clicks of rebound damping and it's set 10 clicks from max. Less wasn't as good, so I may try even more. I might dial back some preload, and make it even softer. The lower right height is working great too. It still has miles before the pedals would strike. You could go even lower, but I like it just fine now. It still has tons of travel too.

 

[biknut]

I'm thinking I set the LVC too high. I set it for 64v. I ran out of gas and started running on fumes at about 21 1/2 ah, because it kept hitting the LVC. Eventually it got down to 64v about a mile from my house showing 21.9ah. That's why I like having pedals, otherwise I'm walking. I think I need to change the setting to 60v. Does that sound about right?

 

[litespeed]

3 volts per cells (60v) is what I never go below but I set the LVC at 2.75 because when your voltage gets lower you will get some sag and constantly be bumping the LVC causing the bike to power off.......

I’m always heading back before that point but it has happened in the past.

Tom

 

[Rix]

I'm thinking I set the LVC too high. I set it for 64v. I ran out of gas and started running on fumes at about 21 1/2 ah, because it kept hitting the LVC. Eventually it got down to 64v about a mile from my house showing 21.9ah. That's why I like having pedals, otherwise I'm walking. I think I need to change the setting to 60v. Does that sound about right?

60 volts is the lowest I would go. but the fact you got 21.5 AH out of a 24Ah pack is good. For all we know, maybe your shun't values aren't calibrated perfectly, even though very close if that is the case. That slight margin of error could be the difference. On a 24Ah pack, I wouldn't ever use more than 21 or 22ah anyway.

 

[biknut]

Thanks for the info litespeed. That helps reinforce my understanding of what's happening. I was a little surprised at the way it was running as the battery got deeper into the charge. I'm not used to riding with voltage below 68v, and even that was rare until the last year. I haven't figured out yet where this battery gets below 70v, but when it's down there I can feel the difference in performance. I probably should have expected it, but didn't really think about it that much. After it gets to 70v, it still takes a pretty long time to start bumping the cutoff, @ 64v. Now that I understand what's going on I may not even change the LVC, because I'm not that impressed with the performance down there anyway, and it starts feeling like I'm flogging it at full throttle. Maybe the battery will last longer this way?

Even with a 64v cutoff it still has 2 or 3 more good ah than my old battery, so it seems like one way you get around this problem is you just get a super big ass battery like FL, and then you don't care. 8)

 

[litespeed]

My battery is a 20s15p of 30Q so I have 45 theoretical amps to work with. I recently put it in storage mode for winter and then we got some good weather so I went for a ride. When I was around 68 resting volts and tried a full throttle 200 amp draw.......it wasn’t happening at all. All through out the 70 volt area it’s not a problem all the way up to the 82 volts where I cap my voltage off at. I figure I’m probably using about 30 amps prior to getting into the 60’s where this is a problem which for me even with very spirited riding is about 40 miles, where my butt is ready for a break anyways. Funny how my very comfy seat can turn into an ass hatchet all the sudden at around 30 miles.

Tom

 

[biknut]

I went riding today with my son on his B52. His bike is 3 years old. We rat raced our usual route for 20 miles. Hither to, his bike has always slightly walked me. 5200w vs 4500w. Today it looked like I was pulling him by a little. That's much better performance than I was thinking there was. I told you my butt dyno wasn't very accurate.

We both used about 9 ah in 18 miles. He had theoretically 9ah left, and I had theoretical 15ah. When we got back to his house after 20 miles, my bike was still holding it's own. Seems like my bigger capacity battery is somewhat negating the lower voltage it gets down to, compared to a stock 18ah LiFe. Seems like 24ah is enough for a slight advantage. I'll take it anyway.

This leads me to think my new battery is really a lot better than I was giving it credit for yesterday. My bike felt powerful, and smooth running today. It's good. It's very hard to judge performance riding by yourself so cut me some slack.

 

[biknut]

Here's my best look at the difference in ride height. This pictures rings about true.

If you notice I got the angle of the dangle about right. The ride never felt better than it does now. I'm not sure if it's the shock, the ride height, the loss of 5 lbs, or all of the above, but it's feeling noticeably more stable at speed, and I'm loving the softer ride, and comfort.

 

[biknut]

My battery is a 20s15p of 30Q so I have 45 theoretical amps to work with. I recently put it in storage mode for winter and then we got some good weather so I went for a ride. When I was around 68 resting volts and tried a full throttle 200 amp draw.......it wasn’t happening at all. All through out the 70 volt area it’s not a problem all the way up to the 82 volts where I cap my voltage off at. I figure I’m probably using about 30 amps prior to getting into the 60’s where this is a problem which for me even with very spirited riding is about 40 miles, where my butt is ready for a break anyways. Funny how my very comfy seat can turn into an ass hatchet all the sudden at around 30 miles.

Tom

OMG 45 ah. I don't know how you get so much in there. The factory where my battery was made said they couldn't fit 30ah in there. I thought it must be because they use frames for the cells, but they said no, they just glue them, and weld them together.

 

[litespeed]

I had mentioned many times before I have a Vector framed bike only because I wanted stupid amounts of power......14kw to be exact.

I wanted a Stealth but didn’t want to buy one and rip it apart and upgrade. Not to mention cost prohibitive.

Tom

 

[biknut]

My new shock has me rethinking my whole suspension understanding, what little I have anyway. Yesterday I got to compare my sons Bomber to mine. His preload is adjusted way light, just like I always had mine. Standing next to his bike I can easily push down on his seat and compress the shock, exactly the same as my bike used to be. I do realize the stock shock has a dual rate spring, but I don't see it helping much.

When I push on my seat now with this new shock, the suspension doesn't move at all. Not even close. You have to put a lot of weight on my seat now to get the shock to start compressing even a little bit. That's exactly what I would expect from the difference between a 750 lb. spring, and 1000 lb. spring.

But that's about the extent of my understanding, because I would normally deduce from that, that his bike will have a soft ride, and mine would be very harsh, but it's exactly the opposite. His bike rides harsh, and mine now rides smooth as butter, and my handling feels more stable than before.