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E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

john61ct said:
M36, MJ1, 35E all seem to me just as good or better for longevity in the "energy density" low C-rate category.

Losing 15% or more capacity in the first 150 cycles seems a big downside.

And climbing resistance seems they are not appropriate for the 2+ C-rate discharge use cases, compared to HG2 or VTC6

Of course low pricing may override such issues for many.

I'm not familiar with M36, or MJ1, but 35E are Samsung 8 amp cells. In comparison Sanyo GA are 10 amp cells which doesn't sound like much difference, but for my 10p pack it would mean a difference of 20 amps. 80 instead of 100. My bike peaks close to 70 amps so 35E cells would be worked a lot harder than the GA cells.
 
There's a lot more to it than the maker. "Quality" is one thing, aka QA consistency.

Energy density vs power capacity, cycle longevity, ready availability, value for money.

"Best" choice depends on how the buyer prioritizes among those factors

and will vary also by the use case
 
Cowardlyduck said:
I never did find out exactly what caused it, but I suspect your on the right path there Emmett. I'm just glad I was carrying a bunch of C02 or it could have ended very differently!
Your battery fire video made me very paranoid about the danger and I'm grateful for that.

So I've frequently checked my LiPo battery packs for 6S balance, and keep them within the low to high overall range of 3.5 to 4.1V. The human BMS. ;)

Joining balance wires in parallel is too risky and defeats the purpose.

I have to remove the batteries once in a while to ensure no physical damage and all padding is in place.
 
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Suburban Bombing.....
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
What I read is that Sanyo was bought out by Panasonic. Looking at videos made by people that do a lot of cell testing, they believe that now there isn't any difference in quality between Sanyo, and Panasonic cells, which tells me they should be pretty good quality.
Yep, one and the same, very good quality. Sony and LG come close second followed by Samsung IMO.

Emmett said:
Your battery fire video made me very paranoid about the danger and I'm grateful for that.

So I've frequently checked my LiPo battery packs for 6S balance, and keep them within the low to high overall range of 3.5 to 4.1V. The human BMS. ;)

Joining balance wires in parallel is too risky and defeats the purpose.

I have to remove the batteries once in a while to ensure no physical damage and all padding is in place.
Sounds like a PITA!
I have personally never had an issue paralleling balance leads, but I've also never mixed old/new or different cell types. I think that is key.
Technically it's no different that paralleling tens of 18650's and they all act as one large cell. If one is weak it will drag the rest down with it which is why it's so important to match them and have good QA before assembly. This is also why Tesla have cell level fuses for there packs which have hundreds of cells all paralleled. This is something I've thought about, but am yet to figure out if it's feasible.

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Sounds like a PITA!
I have personally never had an issue paralleling balance leads, but I've also never mixed old/new or different cell types. I think that is key. Technically it's no different that paralleling tens of 18650's and they all act as one large cell. If one is weak it will drag the rest down with it which is why it's so important to match them and have good QA before assembly.
No, it's super easy. Balance leads are accessible near the head stem, with a little cover for muddy riding. I can connect the little tester or the BC168 balancer in a minute or two. Just a little bit of routine care and LiPo gives excellent value for power, weight and especially cost. I've not had a cell go bad in a LiPo brick pack yet, but when it does, it's just $200 to replace and I'm away.

With LiPo, parallelling the tiny load amp balance leads across cells in packs is very different to parallelling the power paths between packs. Those pissy little balance lead plugs get warm with as little as 2A through them. Thus I guess the fire in your mate's bike.
 
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Mr. Sunshine on my shoulders.....

“That John Denver’s full of sh*t, man.” — Lloyd

I know I know different song but what ever....
 
I always liked having a bell on my bike, but I started getting into the more sophisticated ones when a guy passed me one day, and rang his bell. It had such a clear ring, and rang so long I could hear it change pitch as he got farther away.

 
I really like my incredibell it’s pretty loud and has held up to a beating. I think I got it from jenson or amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017APNX6/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_i_t3ZREbRTC6AHD

Amazon it is...
 
1abv said:
What are you fellas using to see battery temps?

Last night I rode 30 miles in 84 degree ambient air. The first 15 miles were 24 to 35 mph, and the last 15 miles were a lot of full throttle stop and go in the city. As soon as I got home for no particular reason I decided to remove my side covers and check my battery temp, but it wasn't because Cd said my bike was going blow up, because I've forgotten all about that. I found a couple of places about 101 degrees, but on average everywhere was about 98 degrees.

Then I decided to check my motor, holy shit, it was 150 degrees. I've never seen it that hot even in the hottest summer. It usually only about 135, and I think the previous record was 140.

I think this is because I've become such a full throttle gas hog drunken with battery. Based on this finding I think the battery is doing pretty good, but my motor might burst into flames. I decided to set my ca back to 60 amp. It doesn't effect the top speed, just the acceleration a tiny bit. Summer is coming.
 
1abv said:
What are you fellas using to see battery temps?

My 24 ah pack is about the same as the 35, but the stock 18 ah used to get pretty warm. More than either on my 18650 packs. That makes sense to me, it's the smallest capacity pack, so it works the hardest.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
1abv said:
What are you fellas using to see battery temps?

My 24 ah pack is about the same as the 35, but the stock 18 ah used to get pretty warm. More than either on my 18650 packs. That makes sense to me, it's the smallest capacity pack, so it works the hardest.

So are you using a laser or hand held device? I was going to look at something I can mount to the bike maybe handlebars etc.. like a wired fish tank temp sensor.
I'm using temp strips for the controller right now but wanted something that I could easily access and read for the battery..

Have you tried Ferro Fluid in your motor or Hubsinks? They helped me quite a bit esp the Ferro Fluid.


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1abv said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
1abv said:
What are you fellas using to see battery temps?

My 24 ah pack is about the same as the 35, but the stock 18 ah used to get pretty warm. More than either on my 18650 packs. That makes sense to me, it's the smallest capacity pack, so it works the hardest.

So are you using a laser or hand held device? I was going to look at something I can mount to the bike maybe handlebars etc.. like a wired fish tank temp sensor.
I'm using temp strips for the controller right now but wanted something that I could easily access and read for the battery..

Have you tried Ferro Fluid in your motor or Hubsinks? They helped me quite a bit esp the Ferro Fluid.


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I just use a hand held infrared thermometer. I haven't been too concerned about battery temp, or the controller temp on my Stealth, because they never seem excessive when I check them. The upper operating range of an 18650 is about 135 degrees. We shouldn't be ever getting up to that with these 35 ah packs. The controller gets good air flow, and mine only gets to about 120 on the sides where the fet's are located.

On stock Sondor's eBikes the controllers are inside the battery box with no airflow and easily run 140+. I moved mine outside the box to the seat post tube, and now it barely gets warm.

On my bike the motor is what concerns me the most, especially now that I use full throttle so much more. I think that's probably the reason Stealth sent the bikes out of the factory with the ca set for 60 amp instead of 65.

I've never tried Ferro Fluid, and don't know much about it.
 
Summer is coming so it's time to lube my VBoxx. I used to think it was so difficult. It's hard to force grease into those 4 little holes with a grease gun without making a huge mess.

This grease is Rix recommended, and I like it. The grease, and the rubber vacuum line fitting came from an auto supply store. I'm the left handed super genius that combined these 2 parts to make this effective, easy to use synthetic grease VBoxx delivery system.

Just drill a hole through the cap. Find an appropriate sized vacuum line fitting that can stick up through the cap. A cone shape fitting works best. Made sure your rubber fitting can fit into the VBoxx lube hole. Then stick it in the hole and start squeezing. Don't get try to get too fancy and try using a longer fitting, because it will be too hard to squeeze the grease in there. This one was about right.

 
Last night I rode around a little while and I was reminded about having the ca set on 60 amp. When you gas it there's a momentary hickey in acceleration when it hits the limiter. I didn't notice it with the ca set for 65 amp. It's not that big a deal though, but it's like big mother slapping my throttle hand. The trade off is less motor heat, and a little more range.
 
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