ebike overall help!!!

[Ebikebert]

hello guys I am at the point of giving up!! I have a big problem! My bikes specs are as follows modified 1000W yescomusa motor, 9 fet 40A lyen controller, 20s 4p Samsung 25R battery pack. With this setup I figured i would hit 40 mph without any problem for sure. Well i was wrong. My problems started when I attempted to hit 40 for the first time and maxed out at only 30 mph. I knew this to be off either in the motor or controller side because I knew that the battery could deliver more than i wanted (more than 6500W). However I noticed that the motor was running a bit more rough than usual and was also quite noisier at the same time. So I thought it might be the motor. I then went inside and attempted to mess with the throttle voltage and attempted to supply 5v to the throttle wire on the controller which in turn blew up a few mosfets. With the controller broken i sent it back to lyen for repair. %0 some dollars later and After a few months of waitng i get it back with 40A programed as the max discharge instead of 30A. The controller came with a new problem however when i hooked up the cycle analyst to the controller it reads a completely wrong voltage that fluctuates as the wheel turns!! I figured that the CA feature was just broken because the controller works fine otherwise. And lyen sent me this video showing that it functioned.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksCt3j8uQ1U&feature=youtu.be

note that my motor does not sound nearly as smooth as this motor does which hints to the fact that the problem lies in the motor i believe. Today i went out for a top speed run can you guess what it was? 21 mph!!!! 19 mph slower than where it should be with my controller and battery setup. Note that i have modified the motor with vent holes, input larger phase wires, and temp moniter. After around 3 min of riding my motor was at 100 degrees celsius or 212 farenheit. So i am thinking there is some sort of short in my motor or something because of the rapid increase in temperature. Also a small side note when applying throttle to the motor only the first 1/3 of the throttle responds to any speed change after that there is nothing more the throttle is able to give. I believe that the controller is doing its job of supplying 40A because how else would the motor have heated up so quickly with vent holes!!! Thankyou for hearing my story i hope you guys can help me fix my cycle analyst and believed to be motor problem. Thank you so much for reading this hope you gguys can help me in my dark hour.

 

[amberwolf]

Sounds like you have the wrong hall/phase wire combo. There are a few threads and a wiki that describe how to find the right one. Best to do the testing with the wheel off-ground, first.

You'll know when you ahve the right one when the sound is more normal, wheel goes the right direction, and current draw is the lowest while at speed.

The CA thing could simply be caused by extreme current draw from your battery due to miswired phase/hall combo. If it's not, then it could be a miswire of the CA's V+ wire or ground inside the controller, but I'd check the phase/hall thing first.


It's alos possible that the phase/hall wires are correct combination but that something is wrong with one of htem, or with the connection between motor/controller, like a pin backed out of a hall connector, etc, and not making full (or any) contact.

 

[Ebikebert]

thanks so much you have always been very helpful amberwolf thank you for the continued support over the years!

 

[wesnewell]

What are your color combos on the hall and phage wires? A lyen controller to a yescom motor should be B-B, G-Y, Y-G for both halls and phase wires. Although that's info from a few years ago. I ran into the same problem when I used my Hau Tong controller. Matched color for color, the motor ran rough. I used Lyens table to a GM motor and that was it. Here's a post that might help.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29469&p=449046&hilit=phase#p449046

 

[John in CR]

I never trust color coding unless it's the same exact controller and motor that were working properly with that combo before. You almost definitely are running a false positive, which does run, but roughly and has little torque and dangerous levels of waste heat. Since it is the correct direction you'll need a change in both halls and phases. Whichever is harder to swap on your bike, swap 2, only 2, any 2 of those wires. Then test all 6 combinations of the other more easily to swapped wires. One of those will be a false positive but in reverse, 4 won't work, and one will spin it up smoothly. When testing each combo with the wheel off the ground only, not riding, use only small pulses of throttle. Once you have what you think is the good combo, if possible, measure the no load current at WOT, which should be low, under about 3A. With wheel off the ground the telltale signs of a false positive are high no load current, and when slowly turning the throttle from a stop the start is more noisy and rough.

If you have alligator clip jumper wires, it makes swapping and getting the right combo simple and quick. Plus it acts as a fuse so no high current can damage anything. They warm up quickly, so just short blips of the throttle. Also be careful not to short them.

Take your chain off when testing wiring. A reverse can whack you pretty good with the pedals or make a mess of temporary wiring dangling around.

Once you prove the correct combo with a ride, which will be a whole new world for you compared to the false positive which had little torque, be sure to mark your wires with matching colored tape or shrink to be able to get the good combo without effort if you disconnect wires again.

My fingers are crossed for you that the false positive ride didn't do any damage. It's common for people to damage their motors from heat in one bad wiring combo ride.

John

 

[Ebikebert]

Thank you john for your great info. Thankfully I had a temp monitor inside the motor i got it up to 100 degrees celsius when the alarm started sounding so i immediatly stopped and started pedaling so I hope I didn't damage the motor at this temp.

 

[John in CR]

Thank you john for your great info. Thankfully I had a temp monitor inside the motor i got it up to 100 degrees celsius when the alarm started sounding so i immediatly stopped and started pedaling so I hope I didn't damage the motor at this temp.

It should be fine. It was wise to pay attention to the alarm. Out of curiosity, how far did you get and what's the total load, you and ebike?

Don't be daunted by the wiring, it's really quite simple. Just relax and be systematic with the changes, so you don't repeat and get it in 6 or fewer attempts. A hint for doing that is with the set you'll be swapping (halls or phase), choose 1 as the anchor. eg motor green. Then try both yellow an blue possible with controller green on motor green. Then try the 2 possible with controller yellow on motor green, and finally the 2 with controller blue on motor green. With each try only change 2 wires. That's where people get in trouble and frustrated. They try swapping too many wires at once and usually both halls and phases at the same time. Every combination of halls has one proper combo of phases, and every combo of phases has one valid hall combo. Of those 6 valid combos, 3 are reverse and 3 are forward. Every "false positive" I've seen ended up the opposite direction of the valid combo for that static set. That's why I said swap 2 and only 2 of your static wires. That will make the good one a forward for that new static combo.

 

[Ebikebert]

yes i got about a mile and a half before the alarm started going off so the motor went from 30 degrees celsius to just over 100 degrees celsius in 1 1/2 miles. I am not sure of the no load current since my cycle analyst is not functioning with the controller

 

[Ebikebert]

YES!!!! sweet victory i got to 40 mph today with a half full battery. My cycle analyst however is still not functioning.

 

[John in CR]

YES!!!! sweet victory i got to 40 mph today with a half full battery. My cycle analyst however is still not functioning.

Great! Was it a wiring issue?

wrt the CA, Ebikes.ca has lots of documentation and great customer support to help you get up and running. There's a thread in the Reviews section specific to the CA3 that can help sort out issue and fine tune it's advanced settings.

 

[Ebikebert]

Yes it thankfully was just a wiring issue. Thank you so much for yor help!!

 

[wesnewell]

It may help others in the future if you would describe the wiring issue in detail and what you did to correct it.

 

[Ebikebert]

yeah sure I can describe it. Basically what i had was the phase A and phase B wires mixed up. So all I had to do was look at the phase diagram on the back of the lyen controller and swich A and B wires both on phase and on my hall wires. The reason it was complicated for me is because I had recolor coded my hall and phase wires when I ran thicker wires to my hub motor and thicker wires on the controller as well. So thankfully it was a simple two wire switch. As far as the CA goes I have contacted both Lyen and ebikes.ca technical support describing my exact "symptoms" of the CA.

 

[Ebikebert]

Justin from ebikes.ca told me this

this typically means that the ground pin of the 6-pin CA plug on the controller is disconnected inside, likely a consequence of the controller being opened up for the "repair". You can confirm this very easily with a multimeter to see if there is actual continuity between pin 2 of the plug and the battery ground, or even between the adjacent pins (3 and 4) connected to the shunt which are also effectively shorted to ground.

-Justin

I tested for continuity and he was correct so it looks like I just need to put a jumper wire to battery ground.