Electric skateboard esc troubles (Fires)

[torqueboards]

i have too many just sitting collecting dust

I want one... lol.

But ya, the simplicity of your esc is it's selling point; and it works: I have one, and don't (yet) have a VESC

I do wish there were 12s mamba options for rc car

 

[psychotiller]

Haha!

 

[made_in_the_alps_legacy]

I ordered myself a hobbywing ez run 150amp and hope I don't blow another $100.00. [...] The ez run is supposed to have a burst rating of 1050 amps so i hope I'm ok. I'm hoping the airplane esc"s were just not up to the task.

...may your hopes be fullfilled (I think the burst current of plane esc is about 10x less than car esc) which is probably an effect of density between air and flesh ?

accelerating a propeller through air is a lot different from accelerating wheels on the ground....

From HERE :
Burst:
- Plane "burst rates" are typically around 10% higher than continuous. A 90A ESC might be rated at 100A burst.
- Car ESC burst rates can be 10x higher or more -

Enclosure:
- A custom mold pays for itself only after around 10000 units are made. VXLs and the Castles and the eZRuns I'm sure smash this figure, but I wouldn't be so sure about a lot of the others. Proper enclosures cost money. Fans cost money.
- Car ESCs need to be compact. Plane ones don't. FETs in a car ESC then need higher ratings YET be smaller than plane FETs. $$$ for the privilege.
- Car ESCs usually have two PCBs whereas plane ones have one. $$$ again.

Software: Car ESC is a lot more complex than plane ESC.
- proportional brakes need to be added, as well as reverse. Plane brakes aren't usually proportional, and "reverse" usually means reversible prop direction by configuration
- cogging: A plane ESC has practically no load at low RPM, as load comes on only with increasing prop RPM. Therefore startup is easy. Cars have full mass even at 0 rpm, so must have much more robust start-up procedure (and lots of testing, I'd bet) in order to minimise start-up cogging. (I've tried plane ESCs in cars; they cog like mad.) Development and testing costs money.

Warranty Returns:
- A plane ESC is readily tested by the end-user, since you can apply maximum load continuously on the bench. If it runs OK then you'll be fine in the air. If it blows up it's your own fault for not ramping up load properly during installation tests. Due to how readily they are tested, manufacturer specs are actually useful so it's easily to spec the gear right in the first place. (Furthermore - and ironically - its low price makes it a throw-away item when it blows up anyway!)
- a Car ESC has to deal with large bursts that are hard to test "on the bench", and subject to a highly varying load during runtime. They blow up, and it's up to the poor manufacturers to honour the warranty when I'm sure more-often-than-not it really was the user's fault. For every 10 car ESCs sold they sell, I wouldn't be surprised if they need to make enough profit to pay for 2-3 warranty replacements.

Advertising:
- Especially when your car ESC costs more due to all the above, you need a decent promotion budget. eZRun seems to be the exception here (and perhaps its price reflects that), but it took several years before it really became accepted in the mainstream. (As an aside, it seems to me that URC was one of the first communities to really embrace the inexpensive eZRuns ESCs - there wasn't the same "mob resistance" that is prevalent at the larger communities)

 

[emepror]

Everyone here realizes that the ESC's we use are all built the exact same way right? an airplane ESC doesn't have a different FET configuration vs a car ESC......plus we extremely overload any ESC unless it's the VESC for the most part. These hobby ESC's are designed for vehicles weighing 10-30 pounds, not longboards and people ranging from 160-250 lb.

Not really.. You would only overload an ESC if your gearing and setup is incorrect causing your ESC to overheat. Granted. Software programming for Airplanes are not the same as Car ESCs which is why it doesn't work. Airplane ESC would work if the software/firmware was correct but it's not which is why you can't use an Airplane ESC. If someone knew how to re-program it with the existing hardware it could be used.

Hobby ESC's CAN be used for RC Car vehicles that weigh 10-30 lbs and they CAN support 160-250 lbs with ease. If your setup doesn't work, it's because your setup is inefficient not because it's a hobby ESC.

Don't be fooled by Tom Foolery "Hobby ESCs are not designed for humans". I have well over 3k miles on Hobby grade ESC's climbing 25% inclines. You just have to make sure your setup/gearing is correct. Psychotiller does as well as many other people on this forum.

Granted.. VESC is a great esc and I support it 100%. Get a VESC Ben is an awesome dude.

im not saying that the hobby ESCs are garbage or the VESC is the only option. Stating the only way to overload an ESC is through improper gearing causing heat doesn't make any sense at all. Its missing the power aspect, you can have the wrong gearing and it will still work, its when you try and achieve both high torque and high speed at the same time when you start to potentially run into issues. Thats when you start drawing ridiculous amounts of power, especially at start when you consider stall current etc. And its that combination of overheating the FETs and exceeding their current handling abilities where they start dying. Software i mostly agree with, at least at lower speeds, either way neither option is exactly optimal, i have plenty of breaking issues with my car ESC even though everything else works perfectly.

 

[sl33py]

wow. popcorn thread.

OP - seriously trying to help you here. You have a non-optimal motor. You can try to find a compromise in gearing and high amp draw still might kill perfectly doable ESC's.

I would still recommend you try getting a lower kv motor, and one of the well tested ESC's like XERUN/FVT/Mamba/Torque's/VESC.

It really think my skin is worth a few bucks more, but you are an adult and can make your own decisions. Getting in a childish fued with respected members of the community doesn't really make folks want to help you. Hope your setup works for you and stay safe!

 

[Ls1jay32]

wow. popcorn thread.

OP - seriously trying to help you here. You have a non-optimal motor. You can try to find a compromise in gearing and high amp draw still might kill perfectly doable ESC's.

I would still recommend you try getting a lower kv motor, and one of the well tested ESC's like XERUN/FVT/Mamba/Torque's/VESC.

It really think my skin is worth a few bucks more, but you are an adult and can make your own decisions. Getting in a childish fued with respected members of the community doesn't really make folks want to help you. Hope your setup works for you and stay safe!

Appreciate your help and I'm not trying to get in any feuds. I asked a legitimate question. Got lots of good answers and a couple worthless, waste of my time answers. That crap just gets to me.

Anyways I think the kv rating is a little high also. I do like the specs of the motor though. This is going to be a dual drive board and I want it to do 30mph. (not sure I need that fast but I want it available). These motors are perfect for 6s batteries which are cheap and most car esc's iv found max out at 6s or the price goes significantly higher. It seems like the low kv motors want to be ran on 12 and 14s batteries which I'm generally only finding airplane esc s with those high voltage ratings. Tacon 110 and Tacon 160 for example. I think most of these big brushless low kv motors were designed for airplanes in the first place....

I have to ez run 150's on order btw. Thanks for the help again.