Error in the hall sensor with constant 5v signal without connecting to the motor.

Rousseau

1 µW
Joined
Feb 26, 2025
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Bilbao
Hello group,
I have a problem with my electric kit. It is a chamrider with motor in the back, but the problem is in the controller, I think. The LCD shows me hall sensor error, I changed it, and now it gives me again hall sensor error. Testing with the multimeter I have discovered that the connector of the hall sensor (testing the negative with any of the three signal) continuously gives 5v even when not connected to the engine, that is, gives 5v only connected the controller to the battery and the LCD screen. As I understand it should only give 5v when the hall sensors are connected and the wheel is turned, causing them to intermittently give 5v. I understand that the problem is in the controller, can anyone say what can happen to it and how to fix it?

Thank you very much
 
Hall effect sensors are varied in how they react to magnetic fields, You may be more familiar with the type that operates more like a reed switch turning on/off like in brake sensors with the presence of a magnet. While the type found in a motor will more likely fluctuate when passing through one or more magnetic fields responding more to the Changes in state rather than the state itself.

So upturn the bike, wire the meter up with a logic voltage supply to the sensors, and spin the wheel backwards, if working ok you should see the fluctuating signal.. If a signal remains on (5v) or off (> 2v?) that would indicate a dodgy sensor.
 
Hello group,
As I understand it should only give 5v when the hall sensors are connected and the wheel is turned, causing them to intermittently give 5v. I understand that the problem is in the controller, can anyone say what can happen to it and how to fix it?
The unplugged Hall connector will always show voltage on all the wires, relative to the ground or negative wire, usually black in color, Only when it is connected to the motor Hall sensors will the signal wires be able to change in voltage, I breezed thru Tommycat's suggested reading, but if they discussed this, I missed it.

So at this point, you don't know the controller inputs are bad. Do the wheel test as suggested by fill, you can lift the wheel instead of turning the bike upside down. Buying a $15 motor tester is handy if you can wait a week for delivery.

Chamrider kits often use KT controllers. Is this what you have?
 
I breezed thru Tommycat's suggested reading, but if they discussed this, I missed it.

Slow down a little… ;)

“When effected by the motor's magnet's gauss, ether positive or negative passing by the sensor. It will switch the hall sensor output's signal voltage from HIGH (typically 5 or 3.3vdc as provided by the controller to the signal wire) to LOW or 0vdc, or vice versa. It does this by grounding (or not) the reference electronic signal voltage supplied by the controller. (Much like how the electronic cruise or low brake signal wires are shorted to ground to trigger their actions.) This electronic digital (On/Off) signal is used by the controller to accurately determine stator to rotor position.”

And it’s me, not they, them, our, or us…. :cool:
 
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