Factory Longtail Cargobikes (17 so far)
- Thread starter spinningmagnets
- Start date
sk8norcal
1 MW
Moderator note, The link previously posted here no longer leads to bruin. Deleted because spam had replaced both the picture and the link.
dogman dan
1 PW
I like that bruin, for the sturdy rack built into the frame, rather than weak bolt ons. Step through too, which you don't always see in cargo bikes.
Somebody will chime in,,, "$2400!!! I could build that myself cheaper." Well, ya, if you are an expert welder you could. If your time is valued at $1 an hour.
Looks good at a fair price to me, for US retail.
Somebody will chime in,,, "$2400!!! I could build that myself cheaper." Well, ya, if you are an expert welder you could. If your time is valued at $1 an hour.
Looks good at a fair price to me, for US retail.
boostjuice
10 kW
-Geared Cyclone/Headline motor @ 48VDC (20Ah battery)
-28A current limit (1350W continuous)
-65kg kerb weight
-Range - 40km (25Wh/Km @ 40kph avg speed)
-With single rider 70kg - max speed 55kph with no assist/flat ground, 60kph with assist
-With 70kg rider and 60kg passenger - 50kph/55kph
-28A current limit (1350W continuous)
-65kg kerb weight
-Range - 40km (25Wh/Km @ 40kph avg speed)
-With single rider 70kg - max speed 55kph with no assist/flat ground, 60kph with assist
-With 70kg rider and 60kg passenger - 50kph/55kph
boostjuice
10 kW
The camera angle is deceiving. It is actually 26" front & rear.
The long front fork definitely changed the handling. The front end is of course noticeably more raised. Low speed maneuverability is decreased, but the added head angle/rake improves high speed stability, an acceptable price to pay IMHO. Only due to the improvement in grip gained from front suspension am I willing to travel at the speeds that the electric drive kit allows. More than ~40kph on the original rigid fork was about as fast as I was confident to take things....but my wrists still ached from the shocks delivered by typical sealed surface corrugations at those sorts of speeds.
The long front fork definitely changed the handling. The front end is of course noticeably more raised. Low speed maneuverability is decreased, but the added head angle/rake improves high speed stability, an acceptable price to pay IMHO. Only due to the improvement in grip gained from front suspension am I willing to travel at the speeds that the electric drive kit allows. More than ~40kph on the original rigid fork was about as fast as I was confident to take things....but my wrists still ached from the shocks delivered by typical sealed surface corrugations at those sorts of speeds.
dogman dan
1 PW
At least wheelies would not be such a problem with a long bike. As long as you don't get a floaty feeling to the front wheel, and poor steering traction it should ride fine. But it might be better to go with a 150mm travel fork than a 250 mm one. 100 mm is plenty for street.
It's disk brakes, so a 24" front tire is a definite possibility. But if it rides fine, it rides fine.
Backing up a bit to the frames. 4 pounds vs 47. I doubt the mundo is 47 pounds for just the frame. That's sounding like whole bike weight to me.
It's disk brakes, so a 24" front tire is a definite possibility. But if it rides fine, it rides fine.
Backing up a bit to the frames. 4 pounds vs 47. I doubt the mundo is 47 pounds for just the frame. That's sounding like whole bike weight to me.
Can vouch for that. Even at 4KW+ I didn't have any kind of problem like that with CrazyBike2. (I actually blew the controller before it would do anything of the sort when I deliberately tried to do it, evne pushing down with my feet to try to initiate one).dogman said:
That depends on your streets.
There are places I ride that I wish I had 250mm or better both front and rear. :lol: ESPECIALLY when loaded down!
dogman dan
1 PW
True enough, more travel is great if you ride off curbs or stuff like that too. I for sure found that the 60mm forks were not enough travel.
One your bike, loaded up good, you might be mostly just squashing down too much of your travel leaving just 50mm of usable travel or less. So 100 mm that you can adjust with more air or preload would be better than a shock that scrunches down to a tiny bit of travel left.
My bike is loaded so tail heavy, that a really cheap front shock is doing me ok so far, I think it's only 80mm. On the rear, I have a lot more travel, and have the pre load cranked down to the stiffest setting. I never measured the travel in the rear, but even loaded it's plenty. If I bunny hop on the pedals, both shocks compress just about equally. That's what I aim for when tuning suspension. I run pretty stiff settings for street, and like softer for trail bikes.
Nevertheless, I do want to try not to hit speed bumps or larger potholes at max speed, about 33 mph. Mine does great at the real problem locally, the heat cracks in the asphalt every 15 feet that hump up about 2 inches.
One your bike, loaded up good, you might be mostly just squashing down too much of your travel leaving just 50mm of usable travel or less. So 100 mm that you can adjust with more air or preload would be better than a shock that scrunches down to a tiny bit of travel left.
My bike is loaded so tail heavy, that a really cheap front shock is doing me ok so far, I think it's only 80mm. On the rear, I have a lot more travel, and have the pre load cranked down to the stiffest setting. I never measured the travel in the rear, but even loaded it's plenty. If I bunny hop on the pedals, both shocks compress just about equally. That's what I aim for when tuning suspension. I run pretty stiff settings for street, and like softer for trail bikes.
Nevertheless, I do want to try not to hit speed bumps or larger potholes at max speed, about 33 mph. Mine does great at the real problem locally, the heat cracks in the asphalt every 15 feet that hump up about 2 inches.
You're absolutely correct - my Bad - although the Mundo frame weight is very substantial - particularly the pre-v4 frames. The Mundo V4 frame was 4.5lb lighter than the v3.3 frame due to removing some luggage rack stays and thinner tubing - that minor frame mod weighed more than the entire Biruni frame.dogman said:
boostjuice
10 kW
Joseph C. said:
I actually had to add rubber feet extensions to the factory stand to compensate for the raised front end.
View attachment 1
dogman said:
Here's a photo better showing the raised front end and equal sized wheels. BTW Although they are 200mm rated travel Rockshox Domain Dual crown forks, because of the unusually long head-tube of the Mundo I actually only have access to 160mm of their travel. I chose the dual crown configuration for the added strength more than their long travel, as I'm aware there a few single crown fork options available up to as much as 180mm.
The front end is not floaty at all, even with a passenger increasing rearward weight bias.
My biggest complaint was the batteries weight being so far rearward on a hard-tail. Their 17kg mass set behind the rear wheel axle made the tail end a little too jumpy over sharp edged corrugations/potholes at high speeds (I'm currently building a box to reposition them in the frame, not to mention swapping out the drive train completely).
Riese & Muller just added a longtail cargo bike with a Bosch mid-drive, I will post pics when I get home from work...
slowhands
100 W
Seen on Craigslist, said to be a Virtue Cargo Bicycle. I have no idea who really makes it but there is a Virtue Cycle company in San Diego, though this is not in their catalog. The forward weight does not affect steering, since it is mounted to the frame. But how do you get on the seat? I mean, if the rear is loaded high, a bit awkward. Need a step through, but that would be a serious redesign. Ah well, yet another effort at a cargo bike.
The fingers
10 TW
I doubt if I could get on that even without cargo. Years ago in my pedal only days, I swung my leg over my High Sierra and I failed to notice that the R pedal was near the top on its downstroke (maybe because it was dark at 04:30am). I did an alley oop and landed on my back. 