First build Q100H

This is a bit OT but I tested my Cute 100H yesterday over 20 miles. A few comparison points with the Xiongda.
1. A lot less startup torque on the Cute. Granted I am using a KU63/65 but even so the Cute has 12:1 reduction, the Xiongda 8:1. Xiongda wins hands down off the line.
2. Both are very quiet. Not much more noise than my wife's 9C. Will try with sinewave Cute as Xiongda already has it).
3. Cute seems to need more pedal input at all speeds. This is not a bad thing as we ride for exercise, and pleasure in that order.

I'm gunna keep the Cute on for a few weeks until I can test the rewired Xiongda as the wires were completely frayed and abraided from dragging on the ground. Definitely shorted one Hall and maybe more damage.
Stay tuned.
otherDoc
 
260 RPM version of the Cute 100H in a 20" wheel.
otherDoc
 
Good to know, d8veh. I have a brand new S12S that I may try to see what happens. Right now the KU63/65 seems to lag a lot off the line compared to the xiongda. That auto shift in the xiongda makes a big difference even at lower amp draw. I did see 500-600 watts off the line and on hills with the xiongda. No meter yet for the Cute.
otherDoc
 
fellow said:
Thanks! How is Xiongda compared to 201rpm Q100H in 26"? Any guesses?
Click to expand...
My guess is that proportionally the takeoff will be similar to the 20" wheel. Xiongda for the win. Hard to beat 2 speeds. Like having a car with 2 speed differential. Racers love 'em.
otherDoc
 
Alan B said:
Might want to get this non Xiongda discussion moved out of this thread...

Edit - never mind...
Click to expand...

satisfied?;)

Sry guys and girls I'm new on this forum.

fellow said:
If you live in Malmö, you can loan my BB tools (and other tools). Pm me in that case. Thread subject is a bit confusing, as you bought q100h and not Xiongda motor:) (you can change the topic).
Click to expand...

Ty very much, but I live in Årjäng Värmland so sadly it's quite a long way to Malmö : / .


Got my Q100H running, not happy yet about the cable solution. But gonna test it for a while now to see if I will get any problems b4 I will tride to hide the cables better. How do you do with your cables?
Just attach them to the frame?
Or drill and hide them in the frame?
Would be awsome to hide them in the frame. Just thinking it might weaken it?

So far im very satisfied with the motor, bought the 350W 260 rpm 26" rim and 36v battery with 20a controller. With the display max help on PAS I don't need to peddle anything on straight roads and in uphill I barely need to help (My weight 65kg). It's almost to helpful. If you want to feel u are actually riding a bike I need to put it on lvl 3 or 2. Can choise from 0-5. I installed a throttle to, and I would say I realy like the PAS better but sometimes it's chill to just lay back and use your thumb.
 
If you ever decide that you want just a "little more" ooomph. Consider making a 2WD Q100H?...that would also be a big help when the roads are a little slippery.

Vara försiktig på vintern!
 
How do you do with your cables?
Just attach them to the frame?
Or drill and hide them in the frame?
Click to expand...
I try to hide as much as possible inside my frame. Throttle cable and battery cables are much easier to hide inside than the motor cable. Do not drill the frame too close to the welds (structural integrity). Google for time trial cycles to see where those are drilled. Motor cable is the only thing visible, the rear wheel must be removable in case of the flats. I use those to attach the motor cable, http://www.biltema.se sells them in several sizes:
2000034770


Spinningmagnets: You've asked me some time ago about the ATF, Q100H and noise. After receiving my third Q100H, I can confirm that the ATF inside the hub makes motor less noisy. I've tested it without oil briefly, dry Q100H "cogs" badly when spinned in the air. It just sounds bad and unsofisticated. With 40ml to 60ml of ATF oil inside, it pedals and spins easier. It feels smooth and "right" as it should be. With ATF oil inside you feel no drag at all, clutch works perfectly on all three Q100H I own. My first Q100H is dripping oil, second and third are better sealed (and having less oil inside than the first one).

One can use "stop leak" gearbox ATF additive, but I'm not bothered so I just use it as it is. Those considered about long therm aditive inside the hub, can simply flush it with fresh ATF oil once it did its magic.
797496860583lg.jpg


JohnDeux : Q100H is easy to fill with ATF oil, it takes few minutes and is done thru one of the disc screws (I use the one with the arrow on, it feels right :D ). Seal all six screws with ATF compatible automotive grade silicone sealant and you are good to go. NOte: There is a grease inside that will be diluted by the ATF oil together with the moisture when cycling in the rain. Simply change ATF oil periodically to get that crap out of the system. Biltema (=swedish walmart) has the cheapest Q100H compatible ATF oil together with nylon additive, corrosion inhibitor, anti-moisture additive, protective gear film and all of the other zillion additives ATF certified oil must have. It is non-conductive and cools the windings 4 times better than the trapped air inside it.
 
The "H" and the CST versions are the interesting Cuties.
The H because it weighs 2 Kg and will take 20 Amps and the CST because it accepts a cassette.
The standard Q100's are rather pedestrian.
 
Hey, long time no see!

I realy enjoyed the Q100H this summer, it worked mostly great and had more then enough torque for me (65kg). Used it mainly for transportation to work. It's not far like 1.5km (with the bike 3-5min). On max power I needed to charge the battery every other week. bought the 36v 14.5ah pasonic battery pack.
The only problem I had was that in the end of the summer I pushed the motor in a steep hill without peddling. A strange noise appeard and soon after it died. My first thought was that the gear wheels had worned out because of the noise. I disassemble the motor down to the magnet and could not find any problem at all. Then I checked the controller and I found that one capacitor had exploded.

My problem is that I can't see what sort of capocator it was, do someone else have the same controller?
Looked for a picture of the circuit board on the BMS weebsite but could just found this https://bmsbattery.com/bmspcm/714-10s-13s-20a-lithium-bms-for-bottle-battery-09-bms-pcm.html
But it doesn't look like the circuit board that I have. but It's two circuit cards in the batterycase guiess the one I linked it's just for the battery and the other circuit board it's the controller?

I have a picture of the circuit board. I marked the spot for the capacitor, It was the same size as the one at the bottom left.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fxdz8gabnhnikus/Controller.jpg?dl=0

Hope you all had a nice summer and thanks in advance.

Regards,

Fredrik
 
f you ever decide that you want just a "little more" ooomph. Consider making a 2WD Q100H?...that would also be a big help when the roads are a little slippery.
Vara försiktig på vintern!
Click to expand...

Yes, I have thought about it but I don't really know how it works so I decided to start with this one and when im comfortable with this build it could happen. Now Im focusing to repair the controller, oil cool the motor and hide the cables.

Do u have a 2WD Q100h?

To fellow:

Thanks for the advice, I think I will oil cool it when i put it together again. Was some hour wasted to disassembe the motor xD , but was happy to see that it seems to be a good build. No cheating there!

To Nelson37:

Ty for the advice, good website and he seem like a intresting guy:p
 
JohnDeux said:
My problem is that I can't see what sort of capocator it was, do someone else have the same controller?
...
I have a picture of the circuit board. I marked the spot for the capacitor, It was the same size as the one at the bottom left.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fxdz8gabnhnikus/Controller.jpg?dl=0
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what the question was as you already state that it was the same size/type as the one at the bottom left. The bottom left is 47uF electrolytic capacitor. You have to trace the plus and minus side on the board and match the polarity. I would choose the 100V version, as the 50V one exploded. In Sweden, you can order them via http://www.electrokit.se. Cheaper option is to order via ebay or aliexpress. By the way, that board needs some cleaning and testing, it looks partially destoyed (a hole in the board to the upper right?). Those contacts close to the 470uF looks fishy. Sometimes it's cheaper to buy new... :(
 
docnjoj said:
This is a bit OT but I tested my Cute 100H yesterday over 20 miles. A few comparison points with the Xiongda.
1. A lot less startup torque on the Cute. Granted I am using a KU63/65 but even so the Cute has 12:1 reduction, the Xiongda 8:1. Xiongda wins hands down off the line.
2. Both are very quiet. Not much more noise than my wife's 9C. Will try with sinewave Cute as Xiongda already has it).
3. Cute seems to need more pedal input at all speeds. This is not a bad thing as we ride for exercise, and pleasure in that order.

I'm gunna keep the Cute on for a few weeks until I can test the rewired Xiongda as the wires were completely frayed and abraided from dragging on the ground. Definitely shorted one Hall and maybe more damage.
Stay tuned.
otherDoc
Click to expand...

but did you compare both motor with the same amount of power? If one has 300W and the other 500W, of course the second is going to be more powerful
 
I'm not sure what the question was as you already state that it was the same size/type as the one at the bottom left. The bottom left is 47uF electrolytic capacitor. You have to trace the plus and minus side on the board and match the polarity. I would choose the 100V version, as the 50V one exploded. In Sweden, you can order them via http://www.electrokit.se. Cheaper option is to order via ebay or aliexpress. By the way, that board needs some cleaning and testing, it looks partially destoyed (a hole in the board to the upper right?). Those contacts close to the 470uF looks fishy. Sometimes it's cheaper to buy new... :(
Click to expand...

It's the same size but I don't know if it's the same type. Nothing was left of it just the metal case. And the capacitor in the bottom left is an 5v 47uf. No that's no hole it's just an illusion on the photo:p

I will test it with the new capacitor and if that doesn't work I guess I need to buy a new one. What controller is best for the setup?
I don't need one to fit in the battery case.
 
spinningmagnets said:
If you ever decide that you want just a "little more" ooomph. Consider making a 2WD Q100H?...that would also be a big help when the roads are a little slippery.
Click to expand...

Dose anyone has information about how to do this? I know you have to have 2 controllers but how you connect the PAS and the throttle to both controllers?
 
bikegeek said:
spinningmagnets said:
If you ever decide that you want just a "little more" ooomph. Consider making a 2WD Q100H?...that would also be a big help when the roads are a little slippery.
Click to expand...

Dose anyone has information about how to do this? I know you have to have 2 controllers but how you connect the PAS and the throttle to both controllers?
Click to expand...

It's pretty simple. You need a common ground, which is no problem if you only use one battery, otherwise you need to tie the grounds together. For the throttle and PAS, you take the ground and 5v from one controller only, then split the two signal wires and send one of each to the signal inputs on each controller. The brake switches are best done by connecting one to one controller and the other to the other. The main problem is that the modern decent small controllers have LCDs. I don't know if it's possible to share a LCD. It probably is if you know how they work. If I were doing it again, I'd use the rear motor as the main one and the front one just for extra power and 2WD when I need it. I would have a LCD and PAS only on the rear motor and a non-LCD one on the front with a switch to disable/enable it to the shared throttle. The switch goes on the ignition wire to save power when it's not needed.

With 48v and the small high torque motors like the Q128H, Xiongda and BPM, there's little advantage in 2WD unless you specifically need the traction.
 
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