Front light that makes cars wait for you

Ghost (bike)rider

Ghost (bike)rider

10 mW
Joined
Aug 8, 2013
Messages
24
Location
Perth, Australia
I noticed a huge difference when using a centrally mounted light that is just above the front wheel - cars at junctions look twice before taking off (by then they decide to wait) because a quick glance suggests you are on something bigger like a motorbike (i.e. not a bicycle). On occasions where I have forgotten to switch the light on, the difference is noticeable, and they usually pull out in front of me because they don't assess my speed.

This is the one I went for:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10W-CREE-LED-WORK-FOG-LIGHT-760LM-PENCIL-4WD-H-P-REVERSE-LAMP-12V-24V-IP68-ROUND-/230972959587?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c70fab63

I also use a handlebar mounted switch for fast access when going from cycle paths to roads.
 

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I really like the look of the headlight mounted above the wheel rather than mounted to the handlebars.. Don't know why I haven't thought of that, but that what forums are for!

Good find I'm gonna pick one up
 
I prefer this guy's method:
 

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I've mounted mine under handlebar, so it is somewhat lower.
Have to agree with OP, having good light makes all the difference when riding downtown after dark:

20131005_193754.jpg
 
You guys with the super bright lights should think about using a cutoff.

If you want to be seen, a light that is too bright is also detrimental. It would be pretty easy to create a cutoff on a headlight using tape or painting 1/2 the reflectors. I have a projector flashlight that I did this too. It's superbright, but the light is thrown down on the road only with some light being tossed upward. Works the same as and HID lowbeam on cars
 
Best is yo have hi and low beam. You need to warn cars, or to ride off road with a hi beam. I like 4500 lm for that, but need low beam running lights to ride without blinding people on the street.
 
These bike lights with Cree T6 emitters will blitz anything else. You can set one LED for a straight beam that doesn't annoy motorists too much, two LEDs doubles the brightness, and three spreads it right out like putting your car on main-beam. We cut a flat piece of aluminium to use as a bracket under the stem, and screw the light to it. This makes it thiefproof, stealthy and puts it in a central position leaving the handlebars clear for other gadgets.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3X-CREE-XM-L-XML-T6-LED-3800Lm-Bike-Bicycle-Light-Headlamp-Headlight-/370890544830?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item565acc96be
 
cal3thousand - impressive light! Not sure it could go fast just on aerodynamics alone. I prefer something discreet yet powerful - keeps the feds happy and lights up the road when you need to see as well as be seen.
The light I posted a link - operating voltage is 9-60V, so I use the main battery. The current draw is only 200mA on 48V - only 1% of the battery use. I used to have a 25W LED light but it made motorists flash at me. Have to respect the motorists if you want it to reciprocate.
 
The light above the wheel is how my bikes are setup. CrazyBike2 has just had some mountings changed up a bit, and a "fairing" of sorts is in progress (right now it probably makes it LESS aero but eventually as I finish it it should begin to help)
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=808726#p808726

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My E-bay Conversion kit came with two headlights which where not bright enough for day/night time riding so I added two additional bright light sets I got off a RC Dune Buggy. They are directional so they are pointed a little to the right and left to cover a larger area. I also added 3 sets of string lights as taillights. Bought 4 cheap 99 cents store taillights added 4 extra bright LEDs and turned them into brake and turn signal lights. I see too many bike riders riding at night without any lights, they are just looking to get hit.
 
I'm considering doing this actually, but there is no clear way to mount it on my Manitou fork (which has the bar behind the fork, rather than the front).

I like my 6xCree T6 headlight and it definitely has led to a change in car behaviour.
 
When I ride with my gf, the $20 ebay cree flashlight I gave her blinds me pretty good when I look in the mirror at her behind me. She likes to use it on high to see the road best. Too bad mine flickers really low all the time. Good light when it works, but crap quality.

So far i really like my $35 ebay ebike headlight (most popular of us ES riders). Runs off 12v, but has a model with a 10-90v convertor.
 
I ordered one of these and its just arrived.
A quick question though what switches are you all using I can't seem to find anything waterproof that is not massive?
Anyone using a fuse on the wiring?
 
I don't have a headlight yet, but...I think I should have two of them, because if it's important, you really need a backup. And because I plan to have two of them, I think I'll have one mounted to the head-tube so it stays pointed with the frame, and the second one will be attached to the handlebars, to light up the direction that I'm turning in (like the 1948 tucker automobile).

Teklektik just about has me persuaded into a high-amp DC/DC converter pulling from the main battery pack, and using 12V LED lights front and rear.
 
[
Teklektik just about has me persuaded into a high-amp DC/DC converter pulling from the main battery pack, and using 12V LED lights front and rear.[/quote]

To light up my 3 12V tail light strip, 2 headlights, and step down converter for my stop light and turn signal, I am using a 3 cell 4000 mah Lipo battery. Gives me about 2 hours of running time before needing to be charged.
 
Lighting up your bike properly makes a significant change in how auto's, pedestrians and other biker's respect the path your traveling.

Agreed the importance of not directing your bright headlights into the eyes of on coming traffic needs to be considered.

Since I installed 2@Grin Cycle Lumenator's up front and rear LED "flashing" light in the back.... I noticed a change in attitude of on-coming traffic. Sure there are cheaper and effective lighting systems out there....but, considering the ease of wiring them to a Cycle Analyst and the strong warranty Grin offers....this more than make up for the additional cost incurred. Besides that...they give the bike a balanced look with redundancy in the event one of your front lights doesn't work on the way home.
 
In addition to the handlebar mounted headlights, rear flashers, side spinning random red strobe, and the usual reflectors and reflective chartruse flouro green and international orange clothing, I find the helmet mounted light to be very effective. It puts the light wherever I instinctively look, and the movement attracts the attention of myopic motorists almost every time. Of course there are those who couldn't see an ocean liner in the bike lane. :roll: I tried carrying a boat horn for a while, but for night use it was impractical. So I keep a powerful flashlight in my non-throttle hand to jacklight the occasional nincompoop. :evil:
I've noticed that bodyguards are now using high-powered strobe flashlights to render the paparazzis video cameras useless at night. One of those might be handy to help hypnotized cagers to snap out of it, as well as distracting potential bad actors providing enough time to get away. :wink:
 
My light arrived and I hooked it up and did a really nice job with a mounted switch, turned it on and pop no more light.
Lucky for me they sent me 2 lights by mistake so I swapped it over and pop no light either ?
These are supposed to be 9v to 60v lights right and my bike is 36v so I don't no what is going on.
The lights don't look damaged in any way.
 
Did you get any light output for any length of time? I presume it is a CREE LED light of some sort.
Try connecting to a car battery as a test and measure the current. I popped on a year ago because it was 9-50V and my 48V battery floated at 57V. The light will probably still draw some current without any light output when faulty.
 
Could also have been wired backwards internally, like some of the original Magic Pie motors' internal controllers were (red for negative and black for positive). It's not hard to make such a mistake at the factory for some reason, and it isn't uncommon for anything that can be polarity-swapped to actually end up that way.
 
Ghost (bike)rider said:
Did you get any light output for any length of time? I presume it is a CREE LED light of some sort.
Try connecting to a car battery as a test and measure the current. I popped on a year ago because it was 9-50V and my 48V battery floated at 57V. The light will probably still draw some current without any light output when faulty.
Click to expand...

This is the same light as you suggested in your first post and no the light just flashed for a fraction of a second and that was it.
I also tried it on a 12v car battery and now nothing.
The supplier is checking for me.
 
me too, cree from EBAY- First hook up= blown!
Now I just make my own, halogen 50 watt mr16 bulb- they use much more juice than cree, and get hot, They do not care about polarity and do get cars attention.
 
I'm on the hunt for a new light too. Where do you find DC/DC supplies that can handle more than a few watts? (ie. for hooking up a few halogen bulbs?) I know ebikes.ca sells one, but even it is only rated for 20 watts. Which is enough for some leds, but not a 50w halogen.

Actually, I can't decide what direction to go; use the main bike battery or self powered? By local, or from Justin at ebikes.ca or ebay? Too many choices!

Thanks,
Colin
 
If you are using 48V, this does not require a step-down

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H3-55W-48V-Halogen-Lamp-Auto-Bulb-Lightbulb-NEW-/110469514587

It is a H3 which is good for most spotlights.

I would still go with LED where possible. I have ordered 2 x 10W LED lights and they are both super bright, compact and run cool.
I considered HID lights but they require a 10KV ballast, which just seems wrong on a bicycle.
 
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