Fun with a Heinzmann

[blueb0ttle2]

I installed a 400 watt Heinzmann motor, and my battery is charging. I'm anxiously awaiting the test, since I've never used a hub motor before. Pity I'm using 24 volts worth of lead
The Heinzmann is supposed to be torquey, right?

 

[blueb0ttle2]

Here are some details on my bike...
http://evalbum.com/3496
I have yet to update the picture and speed, etc. since I haven't gone on the maiden voyage yet.

 

[Ypedal]

most are geared and brushed, so not the best but still fun, i have one in a box yet to be installed but with any luck i might do it tomorrow !

keep us posted ! 8)

 

[dogman dan]

Yes, compared to other 24v motors, incredible torque. But not a speed machine, about 13 mph tops. The freewheel makes it a real good coaster though, so it's a nice motor for the " just an assist" type rides. A really good motor if you want to ride slower on dirt trails.

 

[blueb0ttle2]

It's ALIVE!!!
Yes, it was only 13.5 MPH tops unassisted. But boy was it peppy! Full speed in 6 seconds without any help from me
It not only beat hills, it ate them.
So far I rode 9 miles on a charge, and was still going like gangbusters.
All's well. I'm happy with it.

 

[torker]

Awesome, Now charge that lead so you can get 9 mi. next time :wink:

 

[dogman dan]

I loved my Heinzmann, but in my climate, off road, I kept overheating it. At 36v, I've not ridden anthing better on a hill.

 

[blueb0ttle2]

I seem to have hit on a snag....
I would like to use the overheat safety feature that Heinzmann motors have, and my Yi-Yun (Cheap!) controller is not compatible with it. I hear it's just a thermistor that opens when the temperature gets too high. If the thermistor can take 24 volts, maybe I could hook it up to a relay that's between the controller and the batteries. Otherwise, what cheap fix/controller could I use?
There's some guy on ebay trying to sell NIB evg controllers for $155, and I know that's a rip off.

 

[Drunkskunk]

thermoresistors can't take 24 volts normaly. Most want 5 volts.

But does that controller have E brakes? Were the motor shuts off if you pull the brakes? It might be possable to use that. It might need some modifying, but I suspect it's possable.

 

[dogman dan]

Any controller with an on off switch would work. Maybe the controller you have will work if you cut a jumper inside it, and wire each side to the thermistor. Somebody here might be able to identify it with a good pic you send.

Ebrake circuit would work fine too.

I was having overheat problems, from the climate here, from the way I rode, and I was using a 35 amp controller. So I started monitoring the temp of the axle stub where the wires come out with a cheap thermometer. You could just do that, and stop riding when you see about 160F.

 

[blueb0ttle2]

I already tried wiring it to the ebrake. No dice. My ebrake system seems to be based on the switch being closed in order to stop the motor, whilst the thermistor stops the motor when its open. The result, if I have the thermistor connected to the ebrake, it doesn't work at all
I'll see if I can open the controller, but I'm reluctant to modify anything if it's too close a fit on the circuit board.

 

[Drunkskunk]

That problem is easily solved with a relay. when the thermoresistor goes open, it releases a relay that goes normaly closed and cuts in the brakes

 

[knoxie]

the heinzmann is a great motor very well made and in stock form run very well, I wouldnt worry too much about over heating it esp with lead acid batteries I reckon you will be fine, bike looks well old fashioned, I would bet its comfortable though, enjoy your bike and yes you will love updating that lead with Lipo or at least lifepo

 

[blueb0ttle2]

That problem is easily solved with a relay. when the thermoresistor goes open, it releases a relay that goes normaly closed and cuts in the brakes

Ah! I see. I ought to get a little 5-6 volt relay, and hook it up the right way on the ebrake system. It's all coming together now :lol:

 

[blueb0ttle2]

I used the Heinzmann to commute today. It worked quite well. I like not having to pedal to start Whenever I'm at a stop light, I just whizz away, the other cyclists are probably giving me dirty looks. To me, there's very little difference between having a top speed of 13 instead of 15 (like on my ezip). I'd rather rather travel slower and have better gearing for hills.
It hardly gets hot, probably because I'm only running on the recommended 24 volts. I'm still going to try to install the overheat safety feature, but no worries 8)

 

[dogman dan]

Getting cooler now too. My overheat problems were from running it on 16 ah of nicads, a 35 amp controller, and climbing big huge hills in dry hot summer weather. For a ride of 8 miles or so on more level paved ground, no problems.

 

[blueb0ttle2]

Getting cooler now too. My overheat problems were from running it on 16 ah of nicads, a 35 amp controller, and climbing big huge hills in dry hot summer weather. For a ride of 8 miles or so on more level paved ground, no problems.

Florida summers are pretty beastly (Usually between 97-103 F), but in a wet sort of way. And when it rains, which is often, it doesn't fall in a pleasant English drizzle. Each rain drop can drown a cat :lol:
So one of my big things is waterproofing, in case it gets caught in an unexpected storm (Which is very likely). I snaked the cables with Anderson connectors through an old inner tube, and tied the ends with cable ties and the controller and batteries are kept in a more-or-less waterproof box. Now it is getting cool and dry at last 8) Only 88F today.
Back to the Heinzmann
Does the 36 volt 500watt Heinzmann have more torque than the 24 volt version? I'm already planning my next project

 

[gmouchawar]

You can run the 24V Heinzmann on 36V but you should definitely hook up the thermal sensor. It will occasionally trip and protect the motor.
The 36V Heinzmann that I have don't have the thermal sensor. I am guessing they used bigger wires inside to reduce the heat generation.

 

[blueb0ttle2]

Just an update on the ol' Heinzmann.
Still going strong. Yes it is slow, but it has more starting torque than my ezip, more range than my ezip, is lighter than my ezip, and is not broken...unlike my ezip
I gave it a torture test the other day, and I'm still thrilled with is performance. This time I put a voltmeter on so I can keep tabs on the state of discharge. I traveled at LEAST 7 miles and went from 25 to 23 volts, which I calculated (in my thoroughly unscientific, gut feeling sort of way) is just about HALF of my possible range, since my controller cuts of at about 21 volts.
Slow and steady wins the race

 

[Ian]

I used the Heinzmann to commute today. It worked quite well. I like not having to pedal to start Whenever I'm at a stop light, I just whizz away, the other cyclists are probably giving me dirty looks. To me, there's very little difference between having a top speed of 13 instead of 15 (like on my ezip). I'd rather rather travel slower and have better gearing for hills.
It hardly gets hot, probably because I'm only running on the recommended 24 volts. I'm still going to try to install the overheat safety feature, but no worries 8)

Would you be interested in 24v 13ah nimh pack & 2 smart chargers (each one charges the a 12v string of 10 cells)? They are at midlife 240 cycles, running fine

 

[blueb0ttle2]

Would you be interested in 24v 13ah nimh pack & 2 smart chargers (each one charges the a 12v string of 10 cells)? They are at midlife 240 cycles, running fine

Thanks for the offer, but I am not going to consider changing my batteries until these lead ones die. By the time my old batteries go I could probably afford headways. I'm a "make do and mend" type
I'm happy with their range, it's only the weight that gets me down.

 

[DCMotorworks]

I have a few EVG E-bikes with Heinzmanns. Two 24v and a 36v. I have been running one of the 24v at 36 volts with no problems for about 6 months now. No problems with the motor I should say because a few days ago my controller (I was using a 36v controller out of an old evg mini-bike) just went to constant full throttle, bypassing the brake cut off and the thumb throttle completely. My power switch is mounted on my handle bars so getting the few miles home was no drama, I just turned the bike on and off as necessary.
Anyways, I am in the process of installing a generic 36v 30A brushed controller into the system (or maybe it is 20A, or 25? idk, I worked out what the rating of my now dead controller was months ago and purchased this as a back up but I don't remember exact specs at the moment).
Although the thermo-sensor in the hub has never tripped I am still reluctant to run with out that added safety feature. My plan was to simply run the 5v power lead of my throttle through the sensor.
I love this motor at 36v. Low end torque is not so great but the top speed is 21.5 mph. And is it ever loud. It sounds like my bike is powered by a turbine but I don't mind. in fact I kind of like it.

DC

 

[blueb0ttle2]

Oddly enough, I find noisy bikes reassuring. I don't want my bike to be totally silent, since then I would think that something is broken!
I ought to pop my motors open and lubricate though. That ought to make it a bit more quiet and efficient. A winter project, since I can't ride my lead sled in freezing temps

 

[blueb0ttle2]

That problem is easily solved with a relay. when the thermoresistor goes open, it releases a relay that goes normaly closed and cuts in the brakes

I was whining about not having the heat safety feature, and I decided to do more research, and follow this suggestion. My lead sled can't go in the freezing temps, so I'll use my holiday time and make something with a 5 volt relay (That I got at the Shack) and the power supply for the throttle. Once I get that up and running, maybe I'll attempt to run at 36 volts. I'm using a Yi-Yun YK42-2, which is designed for 24 V. I'll pop it open to see if it is possible to upgrade the caps, etc. Otherwise I could always go the next step up and get the YK42-3.
I've been messing with ebikes for less than a year, and already I want to overclock

 

[DCMotorworks]

Well, I hit a snag on my thermo-sensor wiring plan. My EVG thumb throttle is a 10k ohm w/ a very short rotational sweep so running the available 5v from the controller's throttle connection (it's designed for a hall-sensor style throttle) only gets the motor up to 2/3 top speed at full throttle. The potentiometer is nonadjustable but it seems to send the right signal to the controller if i shunt 1/3 of my battery pack (12v) through it. I have read that the thermo-sensor won't handle more than 5v. I'll take a quick reading from my broken controller to check what voltage was being used before but at the moment I am thinking of just running 5v through it which will I'll use to illuminate my on/off power light. It wont shut down power but I will be able to see if it ever trips from over heating. If everything goes well otherwise with this cheap controller I will figure out a relay set up to stop the motor if it overheats.

And ya, I could just install a 5v hall sensor throttle but the EVG thumb throttle is the best I have used in terms of look, feel and overall comfort for long rides. The main hold up on getting this bike back onto the road for the last week has been fruitlessly fooling around with resistors and a multimeter trying to get this throttle to work properly with the new controller.

DC