GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

Where did you get the fiber glass and how much did you buy?
It looks like you're never going to run out. How many layers is that already, 4?
 
Homedepot, but if you buy it online, find the epoxy based version which seems better for various reasons.

HD was out of smaller cans, and they seemed 1/4 the size, but only 1/2 the price and it sucks to run out, as i usually do w/ most things. plus thud said i'd be making halloween masks with it soon... :twisted:

For flat surfaces, it seems like 4 layers is doable, but i've been trying complex layers which take more time. Seems like using a mold makes much better product than a weird plug, but you gotta do it in halves and later join, and i had waterproofing concerns about that...

But now that i think about it, I could have planned a seam to go on left side, just like my first buldge concept, and current small ridge/stop.

Yeah! If I'd have plastic wrapped/waxed/protected the frame, and created a mold of the right side, I could have layered in the glass and overlapped it plenty to later cut down to a 1/2" ridge which would have acted like a stop/seam... for lack of a better image, like the part on the right:
images


in other news, judith at HK has been a dream - told me they'd refund me in bonus points, and then did, and i promptly bought up 4 replacement zippy 8s packs so i can get on w/ the electronics..

reminds me i need to order some 5.5 bullets!
 
this may be a silly question, but the 5.5mm bullets have no housings...

i'd be more inclined to play with the batteries if i could leave the connectors flopping around w/o worrying aboubt starting anotha fayer... :shock:

so if they're supposed to be shrinked on, how are you supposed to charge them?

sad to say, but since i'm parallelling a pair, i'm thinking of clipping the ends, and crimping in a 10AWG with a 4MM bullet connector on the end....

but will you think less of me if i do? :mrgreen:

advice appreciated...
 
PM icecube for his solution. I know he used shrink wrap, but he did not heat up all of the shrink wrap on the male connector. I would not go with parallel the discharge leads into 4mm bullets. You wont be able to fit them into the connector.
All the questions will be answered as soon as I open up my tool box
Connecotrssssss3.jpg
Guess you need a couple more pictures? :p
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If you are worried about heat from the wire/connector shrinking the shrink wrap, I would not worry about that. I have had these for a year and am still able to connect them like I got them yesterday.
You have an ETA of when you will start commuting like a boss? :D
 
Greg i was a bit um, suprised i guess when you used the "magic" screw terminals before, please dont take us through that again. :roll:
I second the 8MM bullets trackman sugested (if thats them) as i used them to to make a series connector block in a big solid chunk of black nylon. and as my motor phase conectors. pack of 10 M +F for about $10 or $20 . they are fat and tough. just dont short them or it will be super fat sparks !!
 
been there and done that with andersons. great and very convenient for low power setups, but i've melted AT LEAST 50 housings. pic after pic in my GT thread, before i finally switched to bullets.

and re solder, i still remember and just found lfp's intriguing post here:
liveforphysics said:
Crimp the pin properly.

Ive fallen out of love with soldered connector pins.

Wicking, higher resistance, and lower temp failure points.

A good forging-like crimp will almost always be best.

The problem is, 99% of crimping tools are not capable of making a good connection.
i might try dogman's method this time.. then solder..

Trackman417 said:
I know he used shrink wrap, but he did not heat up all of the shrink wrap on the male connector.
interesting.. looks good, but i wouldn't want anything to touch them when loose. i'm not at all worried about heat, btw.
 
Trackman417 said:
You have an ETA of when you will start commuting like a boss? :D
oh,
[youtube]bqoN6i9Ip3I[/youtube]
with a bit more power in the legs these days, i'm up to my old tricks...

last week, i was drafting a bus for a while and a cop showed up to my side and started chatting with me over the speaker. i put my hand over my ear to gesture huh? i didn't get it the second time but i think he said 'you're pretty close to that bus'... then he got stuck behind a left-turner. lol

gotta say, i'm loving the exercise now that i've built it into the schedj.

can't wait to get the bike running tho! clear coat arrived Tuesday. and properly packed batts arrived today!
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GC,

Good to see you getting great exercise, but how are you dealing with the hot sticky DC weather and perspiration? Is there a shower at work? Are you bringing a change of clothes?
 
I've been commuting by leg power too for the past month because my ebike has been out of commission.

I leave a couple outfits at work I can change into and mix so people aren't seeing me wear the same clothes day in and day out.
 
ambroseliao said:
Is there a shower at work? Are you bringing a change of clothes?
yes and yes, but that was one area of my life i wasn't going to provide photos for... :p

but yeah, i joined a gym right next to work back in the winter for shoulder surgery rehab.

work has been so busy, i've not had time to play.

i should have clear coated the bike last night, but i want to do it outside and it was dark, and i've gotta retape everything.. :roll:

andrey's probably getting worried with all this pedal cycling nonsense that i'm not going to build the ebike... :lol:

can't wait to fire it up. gotta dig out those wire nuts first and then green light (pardon pun). i picked a pack of pickeled lipos to split from 8s1p to 4s2p and soldering up to the tab should be no prob.
20130621_232557.jpg

and the colors of the balance wires will help matching the new power leads i'll solder in after clipping and separating the tabs:
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why do you have to split it up? i thought this was 16S? all you really need is the 4 or 5 pin plug it takes for the BMS plugs and you can leave the pack in one piece. should not have to cut it. or did i miss something?

maybe this is all you need and you can use the sockets to attach to the parallel 4S sections. tie both sockets to the leads on the 5pin plug and that will put them in parallel and then plug the 5 pin plug into the his BMS socket.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JST-2-5-XH-5-Pin-Connector-Plug-w-Wire-x-10-sets-/111091213689?pt=US_Radio_Control_Control_Line&hash=item19dd8d6579
 
dnmun said:
why do you have to split it up? i thought this was 16S?
why do 16s when i can do 20s? :twisted:

lots of vid to edit, but a couple pics for now.
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bit of a hasty job.
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i could have done better but there was a bit of wind, and the spray was sooo fine!
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After the clear coat, just buff out the ripples, she will have a pretty shine!!! :)
 
can't wait to see that BMS functioning. i just realized that the serial sockets for the 4S plugs actually do not have to be in sequence. it just looks at the group of cells attached to the that individual little daughterboard and if any of the cells is off then that daughterboard sends the alarm out on the blue wire. so you could run any number of cells at any time. or maybe it gets programmed into the master controller. a very unique design. that display is for both the BMS and the motor controller supervision? you step through the settings with the button?

you did a great job restoring it. looks great with the shine. hard to believe it is the same bike.
 
dnmun said:
or maybe it gets programmed into the master controller. a very unique design. that display is for both the BMS and the motor controller supervision? you step through the settings with the button?
correct. i got andrey on skype and he walked me through programming each bms board individually, as shown:
bmsconfig.jpg

and then all together in series!

i had waterproof cover on so can barely hear the audio tho! :(

talk about customer service. :p
bmshelp.jpg
 
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