GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[Allex]

how quickly does your regen turn on, is it instant or take 1/2 a second?
not quite a half second, but there's a tiny delay going on and off. used to it after a day tho.

If You set regen smooth to NO you will have an instant regen and it will pull hard right from the start. I tried to drive with Smooth regen enabled today and did not like it. Because it applies gradually and even when I release the button, it disables the same slow way.

 

[GCinDC]

awesome. thanks for letting me know. i was thinking about trying Smooth:NO. and upping the rated Amps again. (but i do wonder if having OVS set to 7 could get me into trouble at the same time... )

i used to always use my front brake first, now i just touch the rear brake lever and get good braking. i can't see on the stats the max regen amps, only Ahs. and when i'm braking at top speed, i can't usually look...

have you tried the master/menu password? i'm afraid to try it cause i don't want to ALWAYS have to use it, and it doesn't seem there's a way to turn it off, though guide implies it can be enabled.

also, in your nighttime acceleration vid, did you hit system reset? looked like it when i first saw it. need to check again.

i've still got lots of other questions on the system. can't remember them all now. but will it work in sensorless mode, if a hall fails?

what is the hardware overcurrent protection? 3/3 of main setup.

has anyone popped open the controller? i did try once but didn't want to force it...

 

[madin88]

i've still got lots of other questions on the system. can't remember them all now. but will it work in sensorless mode, if a hall fails?

what is the hardware overcurrent protection? 3/3 of main setup.

has anyone popped open the controller? i did try once but didn't want to force it...

it should work if a hall fails.
overcurrent protection will be what you set in the menu i think. there is no other current protection as far as i know.

yes i also tried to pull out the plastic sidecovers from the case but i was not able to do this. they didnt move even a bit.
i wanted to add some silicone to have a protection against jets of water..

 

[GCinDC]

but what is overcurrent protection? do you have it enabled?

eek, i wouldn't open display. was talking about the controller. i want to put the controller in my triangle, kinda like axel's, and bought this heat sink:

i want to slice it up and 'attach' to the controller, and allow some air flow to that part of the triangle. seems like it'd be most effective if i could screw it to the side of the controller where those screws are. presuming those screws attached to fets on the inside?

 

[upek]

If you set master password and you want to turn it off you need to go to setup select 'master password', enter your current password then click 'back' two times. Now password is turned off.

When you are on main screen you can long press 'back' to lock controller when password is set.

 

[Allex]

Nope did not reset enything, it was dark and I pushed the wrong buttons
Hardware overcurrent - I dont have this option, maybe only on early firmwares?
ovs 7 is quite a lot.
You should try to tune your motor manually.
I had wrong settings for Ind timing and pwr timing, this resulted in motor overheating and maximum speed of 70km/h at OVS2.
The autodetect is not always perfect, especially for high power setups.
After some adjustments my motor temperature is almost normal, speed is solid 85 at OVS2

The covers could be glued.
The display is easy to take apart, nothing special there...several guys mounted external button for it so you can control everything without lifting your hand of the handlebars:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=hj5dnVSR6ZE#t=34

And button made with 3D printer
[youtube]plEiPqEze04[/youtube]

 

[ridethelightning]

awesome. thanks for letting me know. i was thinking about trying Smooth:NO. and upping the rated Amps again. (but i do wonder if having OVS set to 7 could get me into trouble at the same time... )






heres my new tench axle with larger phase slot and larger id bearings etc etc. you can tell by the number of pics i posted how excited i am about it
old 4065 axle broken from on/off regen

 

[madin88]

its really easy to open the display. i did this a hundred times flashing to newer firmware lol
the joystick is nice. ok, it doesn't look like it has good quality (waterproof etc) but maybe i can find a similar one with this protection in my local electronic shop.

@ GCinDC

whats the thread on this upgrade crystalyte HS40xx axle?
where to buy?
whtats the minimal dropout width?

lots of questions

to me it looks even better than the cromotor axle which has a very weak spot on the cable outlet. This one seems to be perfect designd! great.

 

[pendragon8000]

awesome. thanks for letting me know. i was thinking about trying Smooth:NO. and upping the rated Amps again. (but i do wonder if having OVS set to 7 could get me into trouble at the same time... )






heres my new tench axle with larger phase slot and larger id bearings etc etc. you can tell by the number of pics i posted how excited i am about it
old 4065 axle broken from on/off regen

Amazing. What size is the thread? All 35xx 40xx hotroders need this.
I broke an axle its the shitest thing!

 

[ridethelightning]

@ shoulder width-18.97mm
phase slot width-9.7mm, 8mm deep(i did not want it to intrude past the shoulder,into the flat where the dropout is)

min dropout width and thread can be specified to order, along with any other features you want.

not it uses a key(not visable in pics) instead of the psudo-splines on the original clyte one.

order from e.s member Tench in uk.

this one cost me 100 pounds shipped, includes larger id bearings and and nuts. its made of some hardcore tuffassed stell i cant quite remember the name of just now, not yak's cheese like the original :lol:

he has a thread on this too:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=56883

 

[GCinDC]

Looks like the fishermen might outnumber the fish.

well, lookie here (tried a timelapse instead of video, hence the speed):
[youtube]ZemW8kaEk9M[/youtube]

 

[drew12345]

That's a big fish. I wouldn't eat anything out of Potomac though Cool video. Riding around DC looks fun.

 

[xenodius]

I opened up my display for firmware updates a number of times. But I never opened up the controller itself. I am about to get my max-e back from Andrei after paying him to fix it... because it was water damage, which is understandably not covered by warranty.

I need to waterproof it, and I'm stuck between Plasti-dip and opening it up just a bit and putting silicone grease at all the seams...I'd prefer grease, but we'll see. If I do pop it open I'll take pictures for you guys

 

[ridethelightning]

that would be interesting to see!

 

[madin88]

you also can find some pictures of a open controller in russia board

 

[Allex]

 

[GCinDC]

thanks, allex. so that tells us the screws on the side of the enclosure attach to a heat sink, not fets directly, so with longer screws, i should be able to attach an external heat sink pretty easily...

here's the one i bought shown along bottom of mini-e for size comparison, but probably not how i'd mount it after seeing that pic.

If you set master password and you want to turn it off you need to go to setup select 'master password', enter your current password then click 'back' two times.

thanks, dude. i set both master and menu passwords. they're definitely active (require password) when system turns on, but i'm not clear if they need lock the system after some time, or not. if i leave the bike on all the time, maybe they don't lock again?

and using master, my system will NOT lock the wheel. i tried to enable Protection, but it seems stuck on N. no buttons make it switch to Y?

 

[ridethelightning]

i was also wondering about this.

perhaps the anti-theif mode is only enabled by using firmware? i dont see it anywhere in the menues. it soes mention it in the faq page on the russian forum.

i havnt been game to muck around with the passwords incase i get locked out somehow

can you set it so the the adjustments in the setup menu are locked out and only other screens, stats,bms,health, etc and powermode profiles are acessable?

 

[upek]

"Protection" function is not "lock wheel option" This Is called "Anti thief" and it was released in fimware v1-RC8


A far as I know password will not lock system after some time. Even if you turn on "Suspend mode" (something like sleep - it turns off screen totally) You don't need to use password if you didn't locked controller before going into "suspend mode".

 

[ridethelightning]

Ah! so the anti thief mode IS in firmware. i suspected as much.

 

[GCinDC]

sweet! i've got both those!

i had no idea that's what those were!

it won't be a problem to have the system go into suspend mode, and then charge (like i do on a timer now), will it?

Edit: Doh! no i don't have both... I've got the ACC off on BRK - i thought that's what you were showing... I don't have the anti thief.

 

[GCinDC]

[youtube]DzZi-v3IuLg[/youtube]

 

[GCinDC]

almost immediately after hitting that big puddle in the vid, the controller temp gauge spiked suddenly, and caused a loss of power.

the gauge then suddenly dropped and power resumed.

and then over my commute, it continued to spike intermittently. the controller wasn't hot, so i feared water ingress to the controller.

it happened far fewer times on my return commute. i checked my wire bag, and inside it was totally dry. no sign of water at all where the wires go in.

this morning i took the controller apart to peek:

after removing the tiny screws, it's easy to pry the ends off with a chisel:

omg, it's so cute:

and here, if you look at the ends of the mini PCBs (below the fets) and even the nut to the right, there's evidence of corrosion. wasn't wet, but maybe it had been?

and the flash ruined this pic, but the solder on the leg of the middle fet appeared to have melted off a bit, but i don't know.

the controller temp spiked twice on my inbound commute, under max load (80A btw - the higher OVS setting seems to also raise the max amps from 60A to 80A max), hence my concern that it's fet related...

and now that i've seen the inside, i think attaching an external heat sink that is exposed to air flow, even if controller is inside the triangle will help a lot to keep it cool..

and in other news, i noticed the eggs hatched in the nest of our house sparrow, so i mounted the gopro to take some vid of the action:

fun to see pop help out with the grocery shopping, feeds mom, who then feeds the youngins:
[youtube]LKaL_dflwO8[/youtube]
our kids are loving the drama!

 

[ridethelightning]

very interesting.

i can really see the use for the heatsink you got, especially cause your pushn it hard with the max ovs...

 

[dbaker]

Amazing controller pictures. I did not realize it was a 6 fet controller.