Getting the most from 200w - Geared hub vs Mid drive Austral

Thanks, there is a lot of info to consider.

I wonder, are bare hub motors too difficult to install for someone who hasn't really done anything more advanced than changing an inner tube?

Has anyone compared 200w throttle power to a 250w pedelec, which did you prefer?

I suppose it's not practical to get a 250w motor and then use a 200w controller to limit it's power because 1. It might have 250w printed on the motor and I'd have to explain about the controller limiting it and 2. I'd be down clocking it to a less efficient motor speed. Unfortunately this would limit my options.
Maybe there will be 200w double geared hub motors in the future?

Do people think that batteries will become a lot more affordable in the next year or so (because of things like Tesla gigafactory etc.) or so, or there won't be much change to the price per watt hour?
 
Definitely not too hard to fit. I think you'll find a few hundred youtubes.

I think you've been given far too much to think about and to be frank many of the info is second hand gleaned from the opinions of others.

If you state your intended cruising speed, range, local suburb and budget its pretty easy to give decent advice.

For what its worth the auspost bikes you'll see about are running 430w peak. I wouldn't interpret the laws the way they are interpreted above.

In the time since you started your thread I reckon maybe a little over 50 kits would've been fitted throughout the various Melbourne suburbs. I wouldn't get sucked into analysis paralysis. I'd get out and have fun.


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=BicycleRider= said:
Thanks, there is a lot of info to consider.

I wonder, are bare hub motors too difficult to install for someone who hasn't really done anything more advanced than changing an inner tube?

Has anyone compared 200w throttle power to a 250w pedelec, which did you prefer?

I suppose it's not practical to get a 250w motor and then use a 200w controller to limit it's power because 1. It might have 250w printed on the motor and I'd have to explain about the controller limiting it and 2. I'd be down clocking it to a less efficient motor speed. Unfortunately this would limit my options.
Maybe there will be 200w double geared hub motors in the future?

Do people think that batteries will become a lot more affordable in the next year or so (because of things like Tesla gigafactory etc.) or so, or there won't be much change to the price per watt hour?

Its dead easy (& i like u am pretty hopeless mechanically, swp wheel & plug in&attach other electrical bits) if its a complete wheel on the front (watch its not a crap rim supplied- double walled at least). harder & tighter fit on back i imagine. Power cable to front motor is longer.

Simple, get a 250w pedalec & deactivate pedelec & annoying & superfluous speed limiter. Dunno how but i know its easy, just unplug them at controller or move the sensor magnet on the spokes, which probably confuses speedometer also.

yes, batteries are always getting better and cheaper. Hence my suggestion that, as u r the last man standing happy with 2/250 watts cos u have the bike for it, u can freeload & buy time on the buyer's market discards of the power hungry upgraders. A common 10ah 36v li-mn battery is theoretically 360w for an hour (a big lie, unlike lifepo4), but it may do 250w for almost an hour, ~200w for the last 20 mins?.

Yes, 2 speed exist now. Is a thread currently here now on ES (a guy in process of buying it). search on xiongda. As before, highly recommended if it fits ok, as am confidant it will, given u have rim brakes. Bit heavier at 3.5kg. U will nee to familiarise uself with "torque arms" for hub motors generally, but more so for heavier or more powerful motors. They strengthen the main stress point on the forks at the axle, by transferring/sharing torque to a second, stronger point on the fork. Simple but necessary. An old spanner will do at a pinch.
 
Thanks, so you are saying lifepo4 is closer to its rated capacity?

Also did you mean it is super easy to install a bare hub motor without a wheel already attached? I would want to install it on a back wheel so I don't get front wheel lock one day. Also they didn't seem to have any of those Xiongda 2 speed hub motors in 200w only 250w. Maybe they will make a 200w version in the future though.

So on that bike the front forks are not steel (not magnetic) so I wont be installing any hub motor to the front but is it right to assume if I install a hub motor on the back wheel and something goes wrong such as the frame snaps, it's going to be a lot safer than if it was on the front wheel? What's the worst that could happen if the back snaps? If it was you would you risk using an aluminium frame road bike with a rear 200w hub motor?
 
=BicycleRider= said:
Thanks, so you are saying lifepo4 is closer to its rated capacity?

Also did you mean it is super easy to install a bare hub motor without a wheel already attached? I would want to install it on a back wheel so I don't get front wheel lock one day. Also they didn't seem to have any of those Xiongda 2 speed hub motors in 200w only 250w. Maybe they will make a 200w version in the future though.

Is it right to assume if I install a hub motor on the back wheel and something goes wrong such as the frame snaps, it's going to be a lot safer than if it was on the front wheel?

Yes, bit of a hobby horse am afraid. Most think limn wonderful, i call BS - emperors clothes situation. OK for low draw apps like led torches or clocks, but not bursty EV requirements. Even so, just for starters, the bottom 20% of capacity is not only uselessly weak, its forbidden as overdischarge damages them.

lifepo4 is just full on rated power and capacity til empty~.

I may have suggested a 500wh lifepo4 at ~5.5kg. I recant, 360wh~ (~4kg) is fine for you. Its just that 500w is most popular in 36 or 48v, so u dont save much w/ the lesser battery.

(my educated guess is 250w for an hour should be about right for your 30km commute at 30kph). NB that hills can be partly balanced by the descent on other side.

I have only recently become aware of pouch cell lipo (as opposed to lifepo4), which removes a major prejudice i have against them (too many small cannister cells). (product descriptions are all over the place, but you can trust the cell voltage ratings - a lifepo4 cell is 3.2/3v, and a lipo is 3.7v (so 10x in series is 37v))

You would get only about 600 charges (like limn), vs 2000 charges from lifepo4, but considerably lighter and less bulky. I have no problem w/ lipo in your weight prioritised rig, IF its a factory built pack w/ battery management (bms) & a custom charger. Balancing multiple small lipo paks as in the RC world is for zealots who need to get a life.

A rough idea: a 10ah lifepo4 pouch cell 3.3v =~250gm, so 12 x (38.4v) = 3kg in just cell weight (add .5-1kg for housing etc.). lipo pouches are ~220gm and have higher 3.7v, so only 10x are needed, so = ~2.2kg and considerably smaller- maybe 20%?.

fyi, i just ordered one of these lifepo4 rigs - $400A all up

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36v-15ah-LiFePO4-Battery-3A-Charger-BMS-Electric-Bicycles-Rechargeable-USE-500w-/131699945629?autorefresh=true&autorefresh=true

its bigger & heavier than i need for my 350w bike, but cheaper than any 10ah rigs i could find. Surprisinglylittle choice on ebay?

a 10ah e.g.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-10AH-LiFePO4-Battery-with-BMS-and-5A-Fast-Charger-Ebike-/331832804129?

i may have said, the 48v xiongda, i hear, has a better controller and a better automatic mode than 36v (yes, it even has a torque sensing automatic mode for its 2 gears). NB 2 gears on electric is way better that it would be on an ICE, as it has way better torque. I was a slow convert to 48v, but am reasonably convinced now for the inruitive reasons that it means you have a better chance of a state of the art controller, and by reducing current required for a given power level, it makes all components jobs easier and less hot.
 
Don't be fooled. I am all hub, every bike I build is with a hub. Yet I feed my hubs 20+ Kw, that is a hundred times the one you are about to build. A 200w powered hub is good in a very small wheel, like mobility vehicles. In a bicycle wheel it is lame, and its weight is more of a nuisance than help. It is for a reason that EU regulations changed the market and almost all new ebikes sold in Europe are driving the chain.

With that low power only a mid drive can give you some interesting torque, because the use of the gears is giving you full range of transmission ratio. I always say: Mid drives are best at both ends of power builds. When you don't build enough power to make a hub alive, or when you build too much power to keep a hub alive.

Go ahead. Test ride both and see by yourself.
 
Thanks I like the sound of the lifepo4 because of more cycles, safety and durability. This sounds the best option, I did read about those pouch cells also.
 
The point about lifepo4 having a discharge curve that is stiffer above is misinformation.
A typical lifepo4 curve is less stiff than modern licomn batteries.

They're also going to be considerably heavier.

I don't know why there is a comparison with only lipo pouches. The use of 18650 have been completely ignored.

The point above about riding up then down hills is misinformation also. The motor will be operating in a different section of the speed/efficiency curve range going up the hill compared to cruising.

I don't know why you don't want to install a small hub on aluminium forks also. Its common practice for these little motors.

Much of the advice above I have to say again is really quite bad or out of date.


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MadRhino said:
Don't be fooled. I am all hub, every bike I build is with a hub. Yet I feed my hubs 20+ Kw, that is a hundred times the one you are about to build. A 200w powered hub is good in a very small wheel, like mobility vehicles. In a bicycle wheel it is lame, and its weight is more of a nuisance than help. It is for a reason that EU regulations changed the market and almost all new ebikes sold in Europe are driving the chain.

With that low power only a mid drive can give you some interesting torque, because the use of the gears is giving you full range of transmission ratio. I always say: Mid drives are best at both ends of power builds. When you don't build enough power to make a hub alive, or when you build too much power to keep a hub alive.

Go ahead. Test ride both and see by yourself.

fyi from google

""
How much power can the average person generate?
A trained cyclist can produce about 400 watts of mechanical power for an hour or more, but adults of good average fitness average between 50 and 150 watts for an hour of vigorous exercise. A healthy well-fed laborer over the course of an 8-hour work shift can sustain an average output of about 75 watts."

So the poster is presumably familiar w/, & thinks the bike would almost do, even if pedaled. Well, that presumably is using the average ~150 watts now, but only for an hour, after which he is tired and hot. (as b4, on a test track, such bikes use 100w for 25kph, then 100w for each extra 5kph due to wind).

Apart from as little as 4kg extra, he now has the same only almost 100 watts more at 250w, sans pedaling.

yes he only has one gear, but adelaide and 30km, am pretty sure most is kinda 30kph, smooth riding. I would guess .5m folks if that, mild hills, v hot in summer, 1/4 acre block homes rather than condoS, well paved.

I suspect from some utube 200w hubs on the testbench vids, they are factory geared on a 700c wheel to a rpm that maxes out at ~33kph, so given they are more efficient at higher revs, around 30kph should work well w/o a headwind, which would suit him. He may have to pedal ASSIST to get rolling so as not to inefficiently tax the motor & battery too much. just pedal leisurely when it gets out of its comfort rpm range.

further, i actually have/had a 200w very heavy lead acid battery 24v ebike, gearing no comment - its low, but the power is certainly more than i could pedal. Its sufficient for many of my errands in mildly hilly terrain.

you dont seem to listen - its a sub 9kg bike, google it, mid drive or big hubs are simply unsuitable. on a different bike and budget, definitely the 1700$A mid drive MTB i suggested, but as the problem was stated, hubs are most consistent with a balanced solution.

I also think it not a bad solution, that others could emulate profitably - a really light (sub 15kg), eminently pedalable, drop bars, racing wheels. As above, 250w is far more than most can manage for an hour, so clearly, its to all intents a self powered equal to a racing bike, and they are damn fine machines for locomoting a human on the sniff of a fart.

The catch is, u cant economise on battery. u still need a good one on any bike. if it doent work for some reason, he will be stuck with an expensive battery that is too small for plan B, and would blow away any hoped for economies.

My other reservation, is that he is 90kg. a little high for a bike i would guess is rated at 110kg or less maximum load. with the bike, he would be 105kg.

Thats kinda why i lean a bit to the simplicity of a front hub. IF it dont work for him, fine, onsell the wheel & battery to someone it suits, and a child could swap bits over in an hour~ - no chain/cassette complications.

dunno, but a mid drive kit install sounds beyond a noob. swapping cranks sure sounds ambitious. Also heavy, dear and unsuited to a racing frame.

good suggestion re test rides tho. If u see a guy on one, slip him $10 for a test ride.
 
Samd said:
The point about lifepo4 having a discharge curve that is stiffer above is misinformation.
A typical lifepo4 curve is less stiff than modern licomn batteries.

Really, i have heard that b4, and when i checked it was about 2 x batteries in the world that had respectable c-rates (like about 3c) & had much lower capacity than other cutting edge 18650 limn.

They're also going to be considerably heavier.

"yeah, about 20%, which seems ok since, for starters, 20% of limn 18650s is dead/useless weight (can only discharge to 80%). they can be more awkward shapes tho."

I don't know why there is a comparison with only lipo pouches. The use of 18650 have been completely ignored.

"no idea what u r on about"
"the term 18650 doesnt even make sense - 18650 is the dimensions of a battery format, meaningless. its usually but far from always, li-mn chemistry, which defines a batteryS core performance"

The point above about riding up then down hills is misinformation also. The motor will be operating in a different section of the speed/efficiency curve range going up the hill compared to cruising.

"so he is saying u may roll down the other side, but u may climb it in an inefficient gearing on a single speed motor, which i think we knew. just saying, gaining altitude isnt a dead loss of power."

I don't know why you don't want to install a small hub on aluminium forks also. Its common practice for these little motors.

"I doubt i said that. Am I not recommending just that?Torque arms are also common practice, if thats what u mean, and the 2 speed motor discussed, is not light at 3.5kg"

Much of the advice above I have to say again is really quite bad or out of date.
"this refers to the ""new" 18650 limn batts, already dealt with"

"what i said was "A common 10ah 36v li-mn battery is theoretically 360w for an hour (a big lie, unlike lifepo4)"

if u wish to debate that sensibly, fine, but this is not that at all."


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You may have seen me around?

I also live in Reynella. I'm on a Giant City Cross (700c rims) with a 250w BBS01 and weigh 90kg. I ride to the city and back 2-3 times a week (56km round trip). After much research here I went with a 46t front cog, kept the 9 speed rear, and a 18.2 amp hour battery. The battery is 70x Samsung ICR 18650 26F in a 10s7p configuration. I charge it to 80-90% and use 50% or so on a return trip with light winds. An average ride would be 40 minutes each way (20 mins quicker than the bus).

I won't get into the discussion around battery types or motor types as I don't have the knowledge, but you might use what I've done to help make a decision. It's about as relevant as you will get being the same area.

It's certainly not like a motorbike though. Up the southern expressway from Darlington towards Reynalla I average 18-20 km/h with me providing quite a bit of input. It's still double the speed of anyone in lycra though.. On the flats it will sit on 25-30 km/h with little input and minimal power usage. I can turn the assistance up and put all my effort into it and do 45-50km/h but it will use a whole battery just to get to work, and I would be lucky to save 10 mins. Plus doing those speeds is just asking for the wrong attention.
 
scragley said:
It's certainly not like a motorbike though. Up the southern expressway from Darlington towards Reynalla I average 18-20 km/h with me providing quite a bit of input. It's still double the speed of anyone in lycra though..

Either South Australia doesn't produce any athletes, or Darlington to Reynalla is up a really steep hill:

http://www.carnegiecycling.com.au/racing/handicapping/

"E grade" riding (Classified as beginner), ride at 22-30km/h. I commute, but don't race, and I'm a C grade rider. They're expected to be able to average 37-38km/h. I can certainly keep that up for shorter races, and hit high 40s for a minute or so.

There's a nice long 7% grade near me, which is actually quite steep, and I average 15km/h, and I have lycras passing me at speed.
 
=BicycleRider= said:
Also did you mean it is super easy to install a bare hub motor without a wheel already attached? I would want to install it on a back wheel so I don't get front wheel lock one day. Also they didn't seem to have any of those Xiongda 2 speed hub motors in 200w only 250w. Maybe they will make a 200w version in the future though.

So on that bike the front forks are not steel (not magnetic) so I wont be installing any hub motor to the front but is it right to assume if I install a hub motor on the back wheel and something goes wrong such as the frame snaps, it's going to be a lot safer than if it was on the front wheel? What's the worst that could happen if the back snaps? If it was you would you risk using an aluminium frame road bike with a rear 200w hub motor?

You cannot be asking about taking a bare hub motor, 36 spokes, a rim, and building a wheel? It's not that hard. I watched a gal put one together on youtube, and I have done it, but I don't think you want to do that. I did it to save some money buying a bare motor from China rather than a complete wheel. The shipping cost went up 4X for the wheel.

It's not hard to install a complete wheel on either the front or the back of a bike. Just basic bike mechanics. More thought is needed to determine where to position and how to mount the controller, although some people just toss them in a bag.

A low power motor in the rear of a aluminum frame is relatively safe. Add torque arms. You could have the strongest torque arms in a steel frame, and still forget to keep the nuts tight.
 
Sunder said:
scragley said:
It's certainly not like a motorbike though. Up the southern expressway from Darlington towards Reynalla I average 18-20 km/h with me providing quite a bit of input. It's still double the speed of anyone in lycra though..

Either South Australia doesn't produce any athletes, or Darlington to Reynalla is up a really steep hill:

http://www.carnegiecycling.com.au/racing/handicapping/

"E grade" riding (Classified as beginner), ride at 22-30km/h. I commute, but don't race, and I'm a C grade rider. They're expected to be able to average 37-38km/h. I can certainly keep that up for shorter races, and hit high 40s for a minute or so.

There's a nice long 7% grade near me, which is actually quite steep, and I average 15km/h, and I have lycras passing me at speed.

It works out to an 8% average over 3km, but parts of it would be 15%+. I dont see many cyclists using it though so maybe not the best comparison.
 
scragley said:
It works out to an 8% average over 3km, but parts of it would be 15%+. I dont see many cyclists using it though so maybe not the best comparison.

Damn, that is an impressive climb: 240m over 3km. No wonder a geared mid-drive is blowing away lycras.
 
Thanks for all the info, lots of really good reading.

If I got the 2 Speed Xiongda hub motor could I then use a 200w controller to get it back from 250w to 200w and if I did that would I negate any benefit (ie. range, speed, efficiency etc.) of that hub over the MXUS mini geared motor that is sold as a 200w motor. It sounds like all these hub motors run at a speed slightly less than optimal? (did I understand right) so if I powered a 250w motor with 200w controller would this would be even more sub best efficiency speed?
 
No matter how, 200w is still 200w of power. You can gear it down to have some torque up the hills, but there is no way 200w can give you the speed that would require 2000w to achieve. That is why I say build your bike to get the best of it with that low power. You have someone near you who has a bbs1 mid drive, and willing to let you try it. Seize the chance, then compare with a legal hub bike. That should be easy to find at a local ebike dealer.
 
In summary, ger a 350w xiongda and a 10 amp 36v lifepo4.

Set the controller to 200w. if not happy, u have increments of 250w and 350w as backups, and enough battery for an hour of 350w use.
(or simply order multiple controllers at purchase -quite cheap ~25$)

You have a rig thats transferable viably and easily to another bike should u need or desire. It would serve u needs id on a MTB also.
 
I thought that the 200w limit in Australia no longer applies. I know that in some states, they've changed it to EN15194, which is 250w. You should check the latest rules in your state. Much of the published info is out of date.

The best thing about EN15194 is that there's no limit on how much power you use. The limit is on the rating of the motor. If you're sensible in the way you use your 250w motor, you can take 800w -1000w from the battery if you need that power. A Bafang BBS01 is marked 250w so is legal, but you can reprogram the current to be the same as the 350w one. The two motors (250w and 350w) are identical apart from the marking and programming, though the 350w one is not legal.

https://www.allianz.com.au/car-insurance/news/electric-bike-laws-to-bring-on-changes
 
I have an alu giant talon 29er with a cute hub and Max 15a nominal 7a sine wave controller - had a 36v 10ah limnco battery. Have done 3k on the bike and it's ok as a 1st bike. After 18months the battery started to sag and 20kms was getting tough on cold days. Wind and cold and time will sap your battery by 5-20% so get a big battery and treat it well not over charging/discharging.

When battery sagged I went 10ah lifepo4 and benefited from flatter discharge but again time cold wind has reduced range.

I'm now on a giant reign with bbs01 with 25a peak controller and 36v 28.35 ah with over 80kms range at full speed. I prefer the mid-drive but the little hub is also ok.

My recommendation is get a comfy bike first and foremost- you will ride more often and faster and hit the bumps harder. Riding in Lycra you have much more weight on the pedals and less on the seat compared to an ebike so suspension or thudbuster is definitely worth it. 36v low power hubbies can put you in a Lycra congestion zone with them passing on the flat but holding you up on the hills so I think if you go for a hub go 48v to keep a safer zone around you. A 36v bbs01/2 is quick enough to keep this safety margin.

Both routes have their merits - if I had to change one thing it'd be my voltage to 48. I'd stick with the long range high ah battery and suspension under my butt. I can live with hub or mid and slow/fast speed, I can't live with a sore back or range anxiety.
 
I shall read the link re 200w later, but he has been told most of the above, but is understandably leery of "law breaking", as was i, my attitude being, having wheels that could be gonged by the local cop at the drop of a hat wasnt really wheels.

hence my diplomatic/pragmatic suggestion to get a 48v (more advanced controller for one thing) 350w ready rig, and detune it to legal - 200/250w? - reverse procedure to 350w if unhappy & convinced is ok & wont draw the heat looking too fast on the road (350w doesnt). we are saying the same thing to him really.

if 250w is kosher as u say, it would do him nicely on the suggested rig. Remember, its racing~ bike & a 2 speed hub.

upon reflection, i do think having the 3.5kg hub on the rear is preferred.

some extra pud for the front brakes sound good.

In this specific situation, if he can find a 3.7v pouch cell based lipo battery thats simple to charge, the more compact and light (~20%) chemistry may be worth the shorter lifespan.
 
I don't understand the fascination with the Xiongda and why you've skipped over 18650 cells when going from lifepo to pouch lico.


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Agreed tats.
I dont get why cycleops is rejecting lico in lieu of heavy lifepo on the basis of danger in an earlier post but now jumping 18650 recommending lico instead.

And without understanding the terrain the xiongda is a ruse.




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