rp3
100 W
36v on a 12s packskyungjae said:
You really shouldn't go below 3.7v a cell if you want a decent cycle life.
The CA works great as a lvc device. :wink:
GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400
- Thread starter spinningmagnets
- Start date
You really shouldn't go below 3.7v a cell if you want a decent cycle life.
The CA works great as a lvc device. :wink:
mwkeefer
1 MW
rp3 said:36v on a 12s packskyungjae said:
You really shouldn't go below 3.7v a cell if you want a decent cycle life.
The CA works great as a lvc device. :wink:
Actually using Lipo to 80% DOD and limiting charge to 95% maximum charge state will increase your packs cycle life, I can't say how much because my packs are all still running full capacity even at 400+ cycles like this.
The 80% cell voltage is 3.36 V per cell and discharge should stop when the first cell crosses this voltage, for a 12S pack that works out to an LVC of 40.32 v.
Hope this helps
Mike
skyungjae
10 kW
mwkeefer said:rp3 said:36v on a 12s packskyungjae said:
You really shouldn't go below 3.7v a cell if you want a decent cycle life.
The CA works great as a lvc device. :wink:
Actually using Lipo to 80% DOD and limiting charge to 95% maximum charge state will increase your packs cycle life, I can't say how much because my packs are all still running full capacity even at 400+ cycles like this.
The 80% cell voltage is 3.36 V per cell and discharge should stop when the first cell crosses this voltage, for a 12S pack that works out to an LVC of 40.32 v.
Hope this helps
Mike
Awesome... anyone want to buy 5x Zippy LiFePO4's 8400mAh for $250? only 15 cycles. :lol:
rp3
100 W
Sorry, but that's the worst advice I've ever heard for looking after LiPO!mwkeefer said:
Limiting your discharges to 60-70% DOD will give you much better cycle life than going to 80%. You will NEVER get more cycle life by taking more out of the pack.
You also need to beware that the old 80% rule is for capacity, NOT voltage. 3.7v per cell at rest has always been the aim for good life.
Tommy L
100 kW
skyungjae said:
Hello!
If you go to higher voltage, no need to up your wire size. The Higher the Voltage, the more pressure or faster the
electrons flow, which generates less heat.
12volt systems to start cars are low voltage (Less Pressure) and higher amperage (Heat), so you need larger wire to
do Work (watts) at lower voltages.
120v at 20amp on #12 gauge is good for 65 feet (2400 watts max)
24v at 20amps on #12 gauge is good for 13 feet (480 watts max)
12v at 20amps on #12 gauge is good for 6.6 feet (240 watts max)
Volting up means your #12gauge wire should be good!
Tommy L sends......
skyungjae
10 kW
rp3 said:Sorry, but that's the worst advice I've ever heard for looking after LiPO!mwkeefer said:
Limiting your discharges to 60-70% DOD will give you much better cycle life than going to 80%. You will NEVER get more cycle life by taking more out of the pack.
You also need to beware that the old 80% rule is for capacity, NOT voltage. 3.7v per cell at rest has always been the aim for good life.
I was PMing Dogman about this question as well. If I decide to go the LiPo route, I'll probably keep my CA's LVC where it's at now at 44v. He made it very clear that the CA doesn't monitor the individual cells and only the pack total. I may have to raise the CA's LVC if I notice the voltage sag drops below 40v. Anyhow, I'm more than likely going to keep running my current set up. I don't think those 2 x (Turnigy 6s 8000mAh) will fit inside my frame triangle. I'll have to build cardboard mock ups sometime and figure out if I can find an off the shelf frame bag or make something. Aside from that, I'd have to sell my LiFe set up before receiving wife authorization to drop $200+ on batteries.
Tommy L said:skyungjae said:
Hello!
If you go to higher voltage, no need to up your wire size. The Higher the Voltage, the more pressure or faster the
electrons flow, which generates less heat.
12volt systems to start cars are low voltage (Less Pressure) and higher amperage (Heat), so you need larger wire to
do Work (watts) at lower voltages.
120v at 20amp on #12 gauge is good for 65 feet (2400 watts max)
24v at 20amps on #12 gauge is good for 13 feet (480 watts max)
12v at 20amps on #12 gauge is good for 6.6 feet (240 watts max)
Volting up means your #12gauge wire should be good!
Tommy L sends......
Thanks Tommy. Until Lightningrods brings out a more durable belt system or a bolt on solution for the chain drive system, I'll be keeping my set up at 20A regardless if I do decide to go LiPo or stick with my LiFe set up. If I do up the amps, I'll probably double up my wiring instead of replacing it. I have so much 12 gauge wire left.
bee
100 W
This is a great list of high quality parts to improve the cadence of a motor running at higher volts.spinningmagnets said:
For the BMX freewheel remover, I got mine here for <$10 shipped: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Cyclepro-BMX-Freewheel-Remover-/370614930418
That 90t sprocket for the primary side looks like it threads right on and removes the need for a freewheel like I used with my 80t sprocket. Would love to see that mounted on a bike if anyone picks one up.
Any reason to use the 12t #25 vs. the 11t #25? I ordered both and have been running the 11t, it sheared the mounting rod after a few rides so I welded it on but it seems fine now.
I think this is the spider adapter that snellemin uses: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-130-spider-for-BMX-or-eBike-or-Scooter-freewheel-crankset-BikeMotive-/321024602823
I picked up a 130 BCD 52t chainring for $10 but I might start looking for a cheap 60t to further improve reduction.
I just want to add that I would suggest the 52T at a minimum to have a very dramatic improvement in the cadence, and the 60T is probably the maximum that would fit, and also 60T is at the top of the affordable chainrings. I have found other chainring with a higher tooth-count that 60T, but there was a very noticeable jump in the prices.
Here are the chainring diameters in inches and millimeters so you can make a cardboard proxy chainring to see which is the largest size that would fit your frame before spending money. 130-BCD chainrings are readily buyable from 38T-60T
Be aware when deciding between the #25 chain and a belt upograde (both are good choices); Christerljung has indicated that when he added a cover over the kit, the #25 chian was much quieter, compared to the #25 chain with no cover. Also, a cover is most recommended for protecting your pants from getting shredded and one child stickinbg their fingers in it while parked while another kid fiddles with the throttle.
Here are the chainring diameters in inches and millimeters so you can make a cardboard proxy chainring to see which is the largest size that would fit your frame before spending money. 130-BCD chainrings are readily buyable from 38T-60T
Be aware when deciding between the #25 chain and a belt upograde (both are good choices); Christerljung has indicated that when he added a cover over the kit, the #25 chian was much quieter, compared to the #25 chain with no cover. Also, a cover is most recommended for protecting your pants from getting shredded and one child stickinbg their fingers in it while parked while another kid fiddles with the throttle.
bee
100 W
I don't think the #25 chain is loud enough, I might have to put a bell on my bike because I can ride right behind someone and they won't notice me and make space
There's a $15 decibel tester on ebay if anyone with both kits wants to compare sound.
There's a $15 decibel tester on ebay if anyone with both kits wants to compare sound.
notger
100 W
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2013
- Messages
- 279
hi
i have seen most of yout cahin mods are made with big chainwheels
I would like to ask you in advance my chain modification is made just out of spare parts i had at home, i have not ru it now because teh controller is still in repair
the setup is from motor to crank 12t --> 32t --> 12t --> 42t --> 10 rear gears
do you think thats ok, if not why
thanks
gernot
i have seen most of yout cahin mods are made with big chainwheels
I would like to ask you in advance my chain modification is made just out of spare parts i had at home, i have not ru it now because teh controller is still in repair
the setup is from motor to crank 12t --> 32t --> 12t --> 42t --> 10 rear gears
do you think thats ok, if not why
thanks
gernot
rp3
100 W
Out in the bush and the "jungle" with the GNG today. Going great with a fresh belt with the LightningRods sheets, showing no sign of wear. The dicta replacement freewheel seems to be holding together ATM, although it's been getting lubed after every ride.
I have a primary chain conversion sitting here waiting for the belt to die or me to find the time to install it. Also have a ISIS cyclone chainring set waiting for when the dicta gives up.
..
I have a primary chain conversion sitting here waiting for the belt to die or me to find the time to install it. Also have a ISIS cyclone chainring set waiting for when the dicta gives up.
..
Attachments
christerljung
100 W
That looks nice rp3! Have you tried the throttle ramping feature of the Cycleanalyst V3? (to smooth down the throttle response)
rp3
100 W
Yeah, I have it on the default upramp settings which is a lot softer than the controller. But I've learnt to be gentle with the the throttle using this kit.
..
..
richard purchon
10 mW
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 29
my gng kit for sale,in uk.complete with all parts for a chain conversion 64t and 78t sprocket.9t and 12t motor sprocket.2 spare motor shafts.new half link chain for secondary drive.i have the original kit for sale on ebay £170.if a es member wants it they can have all the other bits too.pm me if intersted.
its snaped my bike chain,miles from home for the last time!.
richard
its snaped my bike chain,miles from home for the last time!.
richard
Attachments
Rollodo
1 kW
I think you would have more views and leads on the Used Items for Sale.richard purchon said:
justlooking
1 kW
pm sent m8
justlooking
1 kW
all parts sold ..richard purchon said:
Update on my resin cast sleeve pulleys 107T/18T 20mm belt on the GNG. I have been testing the setup now for over a week and the system seems to be holding up ok with no signs of wear to either the belt or pulleys. I still haven’t decided whether to stick with the belt and pulley of go for the chain and sprocket. Until I decide I haven’t made a cover for the belt and jackshaft, if I go with the chain option the cover will finish up being a different shape and size. It certainly needs a cover to stop mud and gravel contaminating the belt and jackshaft bearings.
I am using a 12s A123 battery and a 9 fet 36-72V controller, I find that at this voltage around 39V and around 800-900W there is plenty of torque to climb steep tracks. In the short video the last section up the track is around 26-30% gradient.
[youtube]2s-G3IE9NiE[/youtube]
With the Nuvinci N360 hub I get a good range from a standing start, on a steep part of the track very low speed with lots of torque and up to 26 mph on the easer flatter stretches of track. The pedal cadence is fairly well matched with the motor; downhill the motor still gives power beyond my pedal speed to over 30 mph.
I am using a 12s A123 battery and a 9 fet 36-72V controller, I find that at this voltage around 39V and around 800-900W there is plenty of torque to climb steep tracks. In the short video the last section up the track is around 26-30% gradient.
[youtube]2s-G3IE9NiE[/youtube]
With the Nuvinci N360 hub I get a good range from a standing start, on a steep part of the track very low speed with lots of torque and up to 26 mph on the easer flatter stretches of track. The pedal cadence is fairly well matched with the motor; downhill the motor still gives power beyond my pedal speed to over 30 mph.
Hello group!
My GNG build is still getting cooked but I is closer to be done.
I will be using a 9 FET Lyen which will allow me to use 36V or higher volt setup and I will play with different Amps too.
I am wondering if anyone tried oil cooling on his GNG setup? I think it could be a good thing as used in some hub motor rides from ES.
Keep on!
My GNG build is still getting cooked but I is closer to be done.
I will be using a 9 FET Lyen which will allow me to use 36V or higher volt setup and I will play with different Amps too.
I am wondering if anyone tried oil cooling on his GNG setup? I think it could be a good thing as used in some hub motor rides from ES.
Keep on!
LightningRods
1 MW
Hi Everyone-
I finally received the motor spindles that I ordered to machine down for 12mm output shafts. These are much longer than the GNG version but internally identical. I will be able to make 12mm output shaft much longer than needed (up to 2.4").
A couple of other options occurred to me. There is a version of this motor that has a fan on the right side opposite the drive and a longer spindle that exits the case on the right. This makes it possible to have an output shaft on either side, or for some bizarre reason, both sides.
I will be offering these spindles machined down to 12mm output shafts at the choice of length of the customer. Square keyways and threaded ends available at request.
I finally received the motor spindles that I ordered to machine down for 12mm output shafts. These are much longer than the GNG version but internally identical. I will be able to make 12mm output shaft much longer than needed (up to 2.4").
A couple of other options occurred to me. There is a version of this motor that has a fan on the right side opposite the drive and a longer spindle that exits the case on the right. This makes it possible to have an output shaft on either side, or for some bizarre reason, both sides.
I will be offering these spindles machined down to 12mm output shafts at the choice of length of the customer. Square keyways and threaded ends available at request.
LightningRods
1 MW
25mm wide, 18 tooth, GT2 driver pulleys available for these 12mm shafts very soon.
skyungjae
10 kW
LightningRods said:
I think I'll have to wait for this upgrade kit and get some adjustable sheets while I'm at it.
The reason for the initial experiments turning the shafts down to 10mm were because there were pre-existing #25 sprockets with a 10mm bore. The shafts of the 80-100 and 80-85 Turnigy RC motors are 12mm, so any pulleys and sprockets bored to 12mm will be a drop-in for this new GNG shaft from LightningRods, and also for a variety of large RC motors among others.
Miles' 90mm motor project will be using a 12mm shaft.
edit. The 80-100 / 80-85 are slow sellers, so many RC suppliers don't carry it anymore due to low demand, so they can focus their shelf-space on higher volume parts. Green Machine made a bulk purchase of 80-100's and has them for sale (I don't know the price)
Miles' 90mm motor project will be using a 12mm shaft.
edit. The 80-100 / 80-85 are slow sellers, so many RC suppliers don't carry it anymore due to low demand, so they can focus their shelf-space on higher volume parts. Green Machine made a bulk purchase of 80-100's and has them for sale (I don't know the price)
LightningRods
1 MW
spinningmagnets said:
You're right about the 12mm standard. I'll be making everything to conform to that shaft/bore size.
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