GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

bee said:
Finally bent my crank enough that the chain won't stay on.

Which replacement are you guys ordering from http://cyclone-tw.com/order-chainwheel.htm ?

When I try to buy "Heavy duty DH ISIS 444432 chainwheel freewheel crank set for 68mm and 73mm" the site tries to charge me an extra $117 for shipping which brings the total to $234.

What's the most anyone has tried putting through the stock controller? I'm running mine at 2000w but I wanted to try boosting it to 2500 or 3000w.

Hi,
I managed to bend my crank but only due to falling off when almost stationary failed to clip off SPD pedal.
When I checked the crank I found that only the crank wheel side of the shaft was bent. I removed the bearing cups and swapped them round to put the bend on the non-drive side. The bend on mine is not noticeable at that side. Swapping the cups may get you moving before you get the ISIS kit.
The shipping is excessive from Cyclone and stopped me purchasing from them.
The chainwheel was also bent so I purchased 44-44-32 from Eclipse bikes a distributor for some cyclone parts http://eclipsebikes.com/chainwheel-cranks-p-994.html but they are square taper not ISIS cranks, I did upgrade to ACS Crossfire freewheel. I also purchased their 153mm bottom bracket but did not realise it was so heavily offset; it was no good for the GNG kit. I have since bought a 131mm bottom bracket but haven't tried this yet.
The 44-44-32 is a lot better than the original GNG but I would be tempted to get the 48-48-32 if I was ordering again.

Regards
Dez Ellis
 
I reckon on mine 44-48-32 (and I'd take off the inner 32) would have worked well and given me good match to pedaling (cadence?).


(Apologies, off topic)
Skyungjae, I had my soldering iron set to about 300 degree's. I have one of these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Doss-48W-Digital-LED-Temperature-Control-Soldering-Rework-Station-/350623644339?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item51a2cc3ab3
Love it, well worth the investment.
 
skyungjae said:
On another note, those of you who have done the shunt mod, what type of soldering iron did you use and at what temperatures? My cheapo pencil style 30W can't handle a job of this magnitude... and it's broken.


i use a 25W iron for soldering a shunt and this is pleanty obvisly the hotter the iron the better but 25w is enough the shunt wire is quite hard to solder so you need a very good quality solder with a good flux ( the flux is the key )
 
t0me said:
I reckon on mine 44-48-32 (and I'd take off the inner 32) would have worked well and given me good match to pedaling (cadence?).


(Apologies, off topic)
Skyungjae, I had my soldering iron set to about 300 degree's. I have one of these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Doss-48W-Digital-LED-Temperature-Control-Soldering-Rework-Station-/350623644339?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item51a2cc3ab3
Love it, well worth the investment.

300 degrees C or F?
 
Thanks for the tips! I've been doing a lot of urban/mountain freeriding (very much inspired by bzhwindtalker) so I'll definitely order the ISIS crank in addition to fixing the GNG one to use in the meantime.

For soldering my shunt and all my bike wiring/plugs I use this cheap 30w $3.30 iron: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Electric-Welding-Solder-Soldering-Iron-Tool-40W-40-Watt-/400483157949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3ea807bd&_uhb=1#ht_1244wt_1399

I've been taking the bike out every day for a ride up the mountain and have been having a blast learning new tricks and playing with my new toy. This GNG kit is just too much fun, when are we going to make Chalo ride one?
 
bee said:
when are we going to make Chalo ride one?
Please let me film that!! "Hey chalo I set this bike up just for you, it's a 1985 peugot with canteliver brakes, no BB freewheel and baloon tyres. Just follow me down that trail OK?" :lol:
 
It's so easy to get addicted to brutal power. When overvolting the GNG at 100v i got a motor that pulls hard above 50kph without changing gear. And thats the same gear that allows ultraslow climbing.
However the motor is even funnier when cold and on a fresh charge. I believe the high rev performance drops when it gets warm.
Then i thought about these cpu-watercoolers. Two of these or maybe cnc a hole new cover for the GNG-motor would give even more power?
The water-cooling kits for computers is nice priced and easy to get second hand for nothing. But is the capacity enough?
__block.jpgI
 
Hi christerljung

Great to hear your progress on the over volting side of the mods. Something for me to look forward to. It seems like a good motor to add a cooling system to. Lots of options with coils on out side. Would like to see a h2o system adapted to the ebike. You could wrap / incorporate water lines around the coils if making a new case.

The little cpu cooler could take lots of heat away from one hot spot if you can run lots of water through it. If you can figure the flow rate it would be simple too figure. May be best to take a broader approach and go for something that can cool most all of the case.
 
I am pretty jealous of the 100v setups! Do you guys think doubling up my 14s packs to 28s would be too many volts at ~117v peak?

Or should I mod/replace my controller and aim for ~3000w at 14s?

Any idea what kind of temperatures the GNG motor is reaching when you experience a power loss? Bolting a fan right into the motor shaft and using a fan shroud to duct the air is how forced air cooling is implemented on scooters and might be an easier option.
 
IMG_20130509_214431.jpg


Shunt mod complete!

Special thanks to my buddy... who had an incredible rig set up for his side business.
 
bee said:
I am pretty jealous of the 100v setups! Do you guys think doubling up my 14s packs to 28s would be too many volts at ~117v peak?
Or should I mod/replace my controller and aim for ~3000w at 14s?
Any idea what kind of temperatures the GNG motor is reaching when you experience a power loss? Bolting a fan right into the motor shaft and using a fan shroud to duct the air is how forced air cooling is implemented on scooters and might be an easier option.

If you put money on a new controller, buy one with possibillity to upgrade further on.
Lyen got one that can handle 132 volt. It would be nice to see what happened at 65A 132V through the GNG.

More amps, more torque. More volts, wider range of speed and still insane torque.
At high rpm the internal losses seems to get higher when wathing the CA. But it still delivers. At what limit will motor bearings size? 9000 rpm?
I think it actually was the controller that was limiting the speed when things got warm today. The controller was "hot". The motor was just warm.
 
Just finished my build and wanted to share with you! I call it the FX-R(e)

LightningRods primary adj. plates, Lyen9Fet, AvidBB7 f&r, Alfine8, Maxxis 2.5, refurbished full susp. frame, custom decals, black matt...
Saddle bag ready for 5000Ah 15s Lipos but 10/15Ah will be the real deal.

Hope you like it;

IMG_0417.JPG

IMG_0418.JPG

New improvements will come but... Time to ridE!

Thank you all!
 
Looks like a really nice setup, very clean.
 
Hey Guys,

I've been lurking here for quite a while. Soaking up all that tasty knowledge. Mmmmm knowledge......

I have started building my first electric bike. I have a background in (gas) motorcycles so this is new but not entirely unfamiliar. I am still waiting on my batteries and charger to arrive, but I have primed/painted my GNG Gen 1.1 kit, and mounted it to my FS MTB. Here it is so far:




This is a Motobecane Fantom Trail DS. Avid brakes. SRAM X9 derailed. 10 speed cassette.

I have 6x 6S1P 6Ah Turnigy Nano-tech packs coming from HobbyKing.

I want to run this at 60V 30A but I'm not sure if I can mod the stock GNG controller for take 60V...
EDIT: I realized after I posted this that with the stock GNG using 63V capacitors, this controller would be running below the LVC for the pack. So I guess I'll run it on 44V for now, and get a Lyen controller to run it at 66V.

I will post more as I get a bit more along. Thank you for creating and contributing to such an amazing community.
 
zro-1 said:
Hey Guys,

I've been lurking here for quite a while. Soaking up all that tasty knowledge. Mmmmm knowledge......

I have started building my first electric bike. I have a background in (gas) motorcycles so this is new but not entirely unfamiliar. I am still waiting on my batteries and charger to arrive, but I have primed/painted my GNG Gen 1.1 kit, and mounted it to my FS MTB. Here it is so far:




This is a Motobecane Fantom Trail DS. Avid brakes. SRAM X9 derailed. 10 speed cassette.

I have 6x 6S1P 6Ah Turnigy Nano-tech packs coming from HobbyKing.

I want to run this at 60V 30A but I'm not sure if I can mod the stock GNG controller for take 60V...
EDIT: I realized after I posted this that with the stock GNG using 63V capacitors, this controller would be running below the LVC for the pack. So I guess I'll run it on 44V for now, and get a Lyen controller to run it at 66V.

I will post more as I get a bit more along. Thank you for creating and contributing to such an amazing community.

How much weight is going to be on that tail tray? It looks like it only clamps on the seat post. I've heard bad things about them damaging bikes permanently with too much weight on them.
 
christerljung said:
If you put money on a new controller, buy one with possibillity to upgrade further on.
Lyen got one that can handle 132 volt. It would be nice to see what happened at 65A 132V through the GNG.

More amps, more torque. More volts, wider range of speed and still insane torque.
At high rpm the internal losses seems to get higher when wathing the CA. But it still delivers. At what limit will motor bearings size? 9000 rpm?
I think it actually was the controller that was limiting the speed when things got warm today. The controller was "hot". The motor was just warm.
After giving this some thought, I think I'm going to with Lyen's 12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller. Is that what you're using? I want to keep charging easy, which limits me to 28s with split packs on the Hyperion networked charger. At 28s, I don't take full advantage of the much larger controller, so it makes sense to go down one size. With the Extreme Modder controller, I can safely use a 24s pack for just over 100v. Maybe 26s to do ~109v?

As much as I love to mod stuff until it explodes, I've been having so much fun with the GNG that I'd like to stick to a reliable/proven setup so that I can continue using the bike 2-3 times a day :)

I heard that other controllers have a "softer" start, is there any way to keep the wheelie popping hard starts that the GNG kit gives on a different controller?
 
skyungjae said:
How much weight is going to be on that tail tray? It looks like it only clamps on the seat post. I've heard bad things about them damaging bikes permanently with too much weight on them.

Funny you should ask that. I took it off when I got home from work today. I'm going to mount the controller just above and in front of the motor kit.
 
I got my 18S of Turnigy nano-tech 6Ah today. Looks like I'll be able to squeeze all 6 packs into the triangle.

I'm going to mock up a box to house them out of cardboard, and make sure everything will clear well. I've heard of people using the cheap cutting boards to make boxes; what else are people using to house their batteries?
 
After months of reading on this forum I finally have my GNG build running, big thanks to LightningRods who magically redesigned the adjustable sheets to fit the new jackshaft, and thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge so freely!!





The lunchbox top compartment houses the controller, the bottom has a layer EVA foam and 5Ah in a LiPo Sac, could easily fit 15Ah in there, would keep things neat, however I'm thinking of tacking 16 * 16Ah Headways all over the bike for peace of mind ..



The red bungee keeps the lunchbag from swinging all over the place, it is only hanging of the seat.




Now that it is working, let the modifications begin :wink:
 
hilly-terrain, thanks for posting. Most of the GNG-V1 builders are for off-road, Due to its particular benefits. Many of them have posted performance data, so that user-profile is becoming well-understood. The other user-profile that the extra effort, hassle, and cost of the upgraded GNG-V1 kit is appropriate to have as an option; is a city with unusually hilly streets.

For uphills that are medium in steepness and length, a simple 10T-MAC using 48V from cell_man has proven to have many satisfied customers, but...for hills that are extra-steep, or medium steepness but with extra length...heat-soak makes the stock MAC too risky (risk of permanent damage, or risk of thermal shutdown and the walk-of-shame halfway up the hill for a MAC with thermal protections).

Your normal commute may not require tackling uphills that are extra-steep/medium-steep+extra-long, but...if you could be so kind as to collect data on a series of hills that are increasingly imposing, I will try to make it worth your while. It appears your kit is still fairly stock, and street-data for hills on a stock kit is lacking.

I am told the stock controller will suffer from heat long before this motor is near its limits, so if you could agree to this, perhaps I can send you a temp probe and readout to keep as my gift, and also you could give greenmachine a test-drive on a GNG-V1 on whatever hill that proved to be the most difficult that it could safely climb? I can sweeten the deal with a rare limited-run second-order endless-sphere sticker? (only a handful left)
 
Back
Top