GNG, 1000W 48V BB-drive, $400

CEGB said:
Thanks for the tips.

I've been given a Halo Clickster 16 tooth freewheel. Looks like its pretty tough, so I'll give it a try. Anyone tried one?
Click to expand...

The halo clickster, for all its heavily engineered 6 pawl chunkiness, doesn't fit. It's 2mm too thick, and 1mm to big to fit I to the machined adaptor of the GNG chain set.

Shame because its a really sturdy looking freewheel, half the price of the White industries stuff.

I have another freewheel on order, but I think the transition to an Isis BBC and LR's crankset is inevitable if this bike is going to be reliable enough to do 30 off-road miles a day on...
 
speedmd said:
Hi Mike

Love the upgrades / stuff your coming up with.

Would like to see you possibly going into a direct to rear wheel from jack shaft (AKA crossbreak) setup also. This would eliminate many of the problems with the free wheeling crank setups and find much more customers / adaptability possibly. Would eliminate the need for adjustments in the lower mounting plates also.
Click to expand...

Thanks SpeedDoc. I'll look into the Crossbreak setup and see what we can do with it.

donny67ss said:
Awesome Mike thank you for putting up the prices now I know how much to beg for from my fiancee for my fist upgrades :)
Click to expand...

:lol: Good luck with your 'financee', Donny!
 
donny67ss said:
I'm thinking adjustable sheets and new BB/freewheel for my soon to be wife's weeding gift.
Click to expand...

So will this be a gift from her for you then? Nicely played if so...
better than getting something "she" think you need :lol:
Congrats to you both!

Kevin
 
LightningRods said:
The freewheel issue with the GNG BB is a major P.I.T.A. The thread on all of the GNG freewheel parts, BB crank arm and jackshaft hub, is 35mm-1.0mm. Similar to 'English' 1.375"-24 tpi but just enough off that you get about two threads in and it binds up. You can force a 1.37" freewheel on, once usually, and then the threads are trashed.

I have not yet found a 4 bolt 35mm thread freewheel that wasn't rubbish. They have a ton of runout, they're weak, and they wear out in no time in our application. If you buy a 16 tooth 1.37 freewheel like an ACS or W-I, it will fit the freewheel housing but won't thread onto the crank arm. The GNG crank arms are also a square taper bore so proper trials crank arms with 1.37" threads won't fit. Like most of the GNG parts, the BB is junk that is not upgradable with quality parts. Scrap the GNG BB and get a Cyclone ISIS BB. I have them for $175.
Click to expand...

I'll scrap the GNG bottom bracket and buy one from you when it fails, but until then, I may as well make use of it. I mostly ride seated, I don't intend to pedal this bike a huge amount, and I certainly don't intend to be doing any aerobatics on it, so the GNG BB might last a while yet. I picked up an ACS Crossfire freewheel today, along with an ACS freewheel wrench that has the crossfire remover at one end, and a standard four notch remover at the other. Very handy indeed then. I ditched the GNG crank arm and fitted an old crankset with an English thread and square drives.

The crossfire feels like a fairly substantial construction, but not as nice as the Halo Clickster I tried to fit. Whilst searching the web for alternatives I noticed that Token make a cromo freewheel with a sealed cartridge style bearing similar to the WI units, but the Token freewheel has two bearings, one either side of a 6 pawl ratchet.

The two bearings ought to make it a very strong unit, and its much cheaper than the white industries kit. Anyone used one?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    28.9 KB · Views: 4,427
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    23.1 KB · Views: 4,427
CEGB said:
Whilst searching the web for alternatives I noticed that Token make a cromo freewheel with a sealed cartridge style bearing similar to the WI units, but the Token freewheel has two bearings, one either side of a 6 pawl ratchet.

The two bearings ought to make it a very strong unit, and its much cheaper than the white industries kit. Anyone used one?
Click to expand...

The 16T cog would fit the four hole flange fitting of the GNG housing but once again the inside threads will probably be a problem. It seems that all quality freewheels conform to 1.375"- 24 tpi. Only low end Chinese junk uses 35mm-1.0. The GNG crank arm is 35mm-1.0 and will not accept a quality freewheel without getting it's threads buggered. Also the square taper spindle eliminates swapping in any decent trials crank arms. They all use an ISIS spindle. The GNG BB is junk that is only compatible with junk.

This does look like a super durable freewheel. I'd be interested to try fitting one on a Cyclone ISIS BB that has the 1.375" thread crank arm.
 
Hi,

Im pretty new on this forum and i have a newbee question about the GNG kit which i can't seem to find an answer for here in this thread. - If buying a new GNG kit now, should i go for the belt drive (http://www.gngebike.com/450w-brushless-mud-guard) or the chain drive (http://www.gngebike.com/60v650w-brushless)?

My plans are to install it on my Scott Gambler (Heavy duty DH bike) and maybe later remove the pedals and only have fot pegs instead.

Sorry if this answer already exists here, but i could not find any real comparison between the kits and which of them to choose from if buying.

Regards
Johan
 
Both use the same motor & jackshaft.

It comes down to your own preference and type of usage, and your preferred voltage.

Out of the box, without modifying anything;

Chain is noisy but strong, belt is fragile but quiet.

Belt seems to offer better primary reduction gearing and more torque, and better match to pedalling cadence.
Chain has more top end.

Chain version seems to offer a simpler upgrade path due to it not having the belt drive pulley machined directly into the motor shaft.

Both use a weird metric freewheel in the crankset that is made of cheese. To fit a proper freewheel you need to buy a pair of cheap square drive crank arms with the more widely available imperial thread.

Personally, I'd buy LR's version of the GNG. I would have done had I known it was coming.
 
CEGB said:
Both use the same motor & jackshaft.

It comes down to your own preference and type of usage, and your preferred voltage.

Out of the box, without modifying anything;

Chain is noisy but strong, belt is fragile but quiet.

Belt seems to offer better primary reduction gearing and more torque, and better match to pedalling cadence.
Chain has more top end.

Chain version seems to offer a simpler upgrade path due to it not having the belt drive pulley machined directly into the motor shaft.

Both use a weird metric freewheel in the crankset that is made of cheese. To fit a proper freewheel you need to buy a pair of cheap square drive crank arms with the more widely available imperial thread.

Personally, I'd buy LR's version of the GNG. I would have done had I known it was coming.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply. The LR's version, is that the Lightningrod's upgraded version that you are reffering to?
 
ferret said:
Yes, LR is short for Lighting Rod.
I don't think that a stock GNG will fit a DH bike BB.

Avner.
Click to expand...

Sure it can. I got it to fit on my Kona Stinky Deluxe. Depends on your BB i guess.

Wishes
 
Johan_vv said:
Hi,

Im pretty new on this forum and i have a newbee question about the GNG kit which i can't seem to find an answer for here in this thread. - If buying a new GNG kit now, should i go for the belt drive (http://www.gngebike.com/450w-brushless-mud-guard) or the chain drive (http://www.gngebike.com/60v650w-brushless)?

My plans are to install it on my Scott Gambler (Heavy duty DH bike) and maybe later remove the pedals and only have fot pegs instead.

Sorry if this answer already exists here, but i could not find any real comparison between the kits and which of them to choose from if buying.

Regards
Johan
Click to expand...

Hi Johan,

Your Scott Gambler much like my Specialized Demo 8 likely has a true DH BB (83mm). This is what most World Cup spec Downhill rigs run for BB's. This means the GNG kit would not fit on your bike without custom mounting sheets that LR has plans to design in the near future. Currently he offers both 68 & 73mm mounting sheets that will work on some DH bikes like the Kona Stinky and a Specialized Big Hit for example.
Take your time before ordering the stock GNG kit and continue reading the "words of wisdom" from other ES members on this remarkable little motor.
For my build I have chosen to go with the belt drive as my needs require a quieter solution.

Cheers,
2020 Freerider
 
I feel in the scenario of e-biking, it's better to have a kit in mind before selecting a bicycle. The same goes for rifles and optics, tires and wheels, etc... However, in the real world people already have bikes they love.

If you find the GNG kit to your liking, find a bike that will work well with it. It's unfortunate that the Scott Gambler has an 83mm BB shell. There are plenty of other used DH framesets you can find that'll work with this kit though. You could swap all your parts over and sell your Gambler frameset. You might even turn a profit. Well, not after all the e-bike components, but you know what I mean.
 
The '450 watt' belt drive kit is the easiest to upgrade with my parts. If you keep the jackshaft, controller, throttle and BB crankset it's worth buying the GNG belt drive to save some money. It is NOT worth buying the GNG just to get the motor and jackshaft/housing. I have the same motor and a better jackshaft assy available for $225.

I'm working on an 83mm kit right now. It should be ready in a couple of weeks. I also have plans for a 100mm kit but I have questions about 100mm BBs. I was looking at a super cool fat bike in Portland last weekend. I thought everything was going to be easy until I found out that it has a "2 part" crankset. That means that the right crank arm, spider and BB spindle are all one piece. The left crank arm is the other part of the 2. So there is no way to use a threaded crank arm and a freewheel on the chainwheel. What I don't know is what kind of 100mm ISIS BBs are available and how those fit the various BB shells out there. Seriously, how can you take something as simple as a bicycle and make it this complicated?

It may be that the 100mm kit is going to have to be one of the "Crossbreak" arrangements where the stock BB is retained and there is an external jackshaft with the freewheels in it. I think the Crossbreak design can work really well with hard tails. On full suspension bikes it's not good to have the drive so far ahead of the swingarm pivot. Ideal would be for the final drive sprocket to be on the center line of the swingarm pivot. Closer is better, farther away is worse. Doubly frustrating, on most FS bikes there is no room for a jackshaft between the BB and rear wheel where it should be.

I'm already making sketches for frame designs. I don't know where this will end up. A complete bike maybe.
 
Since LightningRods (Mike) is already developing an 83mm BB set up, you might as well wait for his kit to be finished.

What kind of fatbike were you looking at Mike?

From what I understand, a lot of them use 148mm spindles with 100mm spacing. I wish I knew someone personally that had one. I was under the impression that you could just buy one of these...
CR2183.jpg

...then slap on a freewheeling ISIS crank.
 
skyungjae said:
Since LightningRods (Mike) is already developing an 83mm BB set up, you might as well wait for his kit to be finished.

What kind of fatbike were you looking at Mike?

From what I understand, a lot of them use 148mm spindles with 100mm spacing. I wish I knew someone personally that had one. I was under the impression that you could just buy one of these...
CR2183.jpg

...then slap on a freewheeling ISIS crank.
Click to expand...

I am working on an 83mm BB. I've since learned that Christer has started a movement to replace the BB with a jackshaft and hang footpegs off of the bottom of the BB bracket. If this is what people want it will require completely different lower sheets. My first 83mm BB set will be 'normal', driving through the pedal crankset.

The bike that I looked over at length and test rode was a Salsa Mukluk. I loved it! It wasn't hard to pedal and it sucked up bumps and curbs like they weren't there. The best part was riding past another cyclist and seeing them mouth "WOW!". Riding a fat bike around regular cyclists is like wearing combat boots to a ballet school. What would they say if it had a big block on it and was doing 30 mph up a steep hill? :mrgreen:

That 100mm BB cartridge is a good looking piece. It might be a bit tight on the left side for freewheel and chainrings but the Salsa actually had a ton of room around the wide BB shell. I'm going to send this photo to Fat Tire Farm in Portland and see if they think this BB will fit the shell. There are also hijinks with shell diameter and method of retaining the bearings. I hope it works out. I want to build a big block mid drive on this Salsa fat bike and offer it for sale.

FatBike1.jpg


FatBike2.jpg


FatBike3.jpg
 
I just heard from Fat Tire Farm and they said that the 100mm Giga Pipe should fit the Salsa Mukluk. They offered to pre fit the BB to the fat bike before I purchase it to make sure it fits.

I don't think I can resist this beast with a big block in it. Staying under the police radar with it is going to be my main problem.
 
LightningRods said:
I just heard from Fat Tire Farm and they said that the 100mm Giga Pipe should fit the Salsa Mukluk. They offered to pre fit the BB to the fat bike before I purchase it to make sure it fits.

I don't think I can resist this beast with a big block in it. Staying under the police radar with it is going to be my main problem.
Click to expand...


Pull the trigger and set that bad boy up LR.

I now have a Surly Pugsley frame set that I am building out and will be going with your Big Block kit when it is ready. I plan to use the Fat Bike for backcountry camping in the late summer & fall up here in the Canadain Rockies. So much fun ahead!

Cheers from Canada
 
Mike... if you do this... I will have to blame you for me spending more money. :lol:

The Motobecane fat bikes on bikesdirect.com are pretty cheap. If I ever did go this route, it would mean having to say good bye to my Stink-E. I don't know if I'm ready for that yet.
 
I'd love to have a fat bike for the trails, the couple of weeks of snow that we get here, but mostly for the baditude of the thing. It's a two wheeled Hummer that doesn't burn a hole in the ozone layer. Don't blame me if you have to get one Skyungjae. I think you were a goner for fat bikes long before I came along.

The main form of cop radar I have to worry about is eyedar. I don't think that dressing up as a black carbon fiber Storm Trooper is going to help me be inconspicuous on my fat bike. :p
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
QS3000 138 mid-drive Motor For Sale
Replies
0
Views
394
DingusMcGee
D
mickyd
Can I replace my BBS02 motor core / rotor with a BBSHD?
2
Replies
27
Views
6,667
sp1n4d0
S
S
Multiple Built Bikes For Sale
Replies
1
Views
712
A-DamW
A-DamW
chuyskywalker
Kona Stinky Restore
2
Replies
29
Views
3,875
calab
C
A
    • Like
Nirve Switchblade - Belt Drive Torque Sensing Mid Drive Beach Cruiser
Replies
4
Views
1,207
Admiralrofl
A
Back
Top