Grizzly Rider replacement controllers or repair? (1000W 52V Bafang G062 and G063)

Here they are. There are 3 wires coming out of it
Pretty standard. The CA uses 10V for their PAS input, so there needs to be a modification for most other PAS sensors to work with it. I just bought the Grin PAS sensor which made it plug and play
done, not sure what that does I had mine at 72- it seems slower- probably a good thing as I could have caused damage.
Now I just need to figure out why my front controller gets HOT fast. Something else that is interesting about it is that when I plugged in the learning wire it spins VERY fast and it does not turn backwards even when there is no power attached- my guess is that it is a stuck clutch if that us such a thing... not saying it is hard to turn it just does NOT turn backwards. Seems to work fine going forward under power.
If the wheel spins freely forward when not under power, then the clutch is working. It's normal to have some resistance spinning a geared motor backwards, since it's engaging/spinning both the gears and motor, but it shouldn't be where you can't turn it. If that's the case, and its not shorted phase wires or controller, then it may be something mechanical (no lube, worn bearings, etc.), which would also lead to excessive load on the controller. Does the motor spin backwards if you unplug the connectors to the controller? I would open up the motor and see what's going on. Maybe the windings are cooked.
 
done, not sure what that does I had mine at 72- it seems slower- probably a good thing as I could have caused damage.
Now I just need to figure out why my front controller gets HOT fast. Something else that is interesting about it is that when I plugged in the learning wire it spins VERY fast and it does not turn backwards even when there is no power attached- my guess is that it is a stuck clutch if that us such a thing... not saying it is hard to turn it just does NOT turn backwards. Seems to work fine going forward under power.
Stuck clutch won't make any major difference in resistance. I have a welded clutch and difference is barely noticeable.
 
I believe my clutch is stuck. I took apart the motor today and it only turns 1 way. I ordered a new one for $30 bucks or so. Working on cleaning the motor up while I wait for that part to come in. I noticed that Grin made a video of the welded clutch and was not sure I understood the concept of you are not using it to Regen. Are there benefits beyond that? Maybe I should simply weld mine in place but I know there is no (easily) replacing it once welded.

Also regarding the key for shaft that goes into the clutch mechanism. In a video I noticed that it is magnetic. Does matter which side is facing out? I do see that it is rounded on one end but did not know of it mattered which side was facing up. I hope that makes sense.

I really appreciate everyone chiming in. It's been very helpful
 
I noticed that Grin made a video of the welded clutch and was not sure I understood the concept of you are not using it to Regen. Are there benefits beyond that?
It will prevent this problem, where a broken clutch ends your electric ride (you can still pedal), unless you're lucky enough to have a big enough hose clamp, tools to open the motor, and don't mind filling your motor with ground off aluminum from the clamp scraping up the inside of the motor housing. :(
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There's advantages and disadvantages to both modes of operation, so whether it's good for your usage or not depends on your usage specifics, and your goals.

If the key is just a mechanical locking key to prevent rotation, and it is not near a sensor to detect something about it, then it wouldn't matter what orientation it's in, as long as it fits correctly in the slots.
 
OK- I replaced 2 hall sensors and the clutch, it is all working as expected. Also happy to report that soaking the motor (windings and all) in evaporust for 24 hours worked like a charm! Thank you everyone- this thing is fast!
 
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