GT i-drive 2.0 Build
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GCinDC
100 MW
Just too steep, bro. Maybe after tax season... :lol:dbaker said:Bells are less than $1. This one also has a compass http://cgi.ebay.com/Bicycle-Compass-Ring-Bell-Bike-Handle-Bell-Aluminum-/170622055281?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b9ddf371
Hyena
10 GW
I bought a pair of padded bike pants to try. Mainly because the seams on my undies were rubbing with daily riding and annoying me and on a hard tail I figure any extra padding is good. Mind you I'd never wear them without anything over the top.
For that price I'd buy a basket of them and throw them at annoying / rude peds :lol:dbaker said:Bells are less than $1. This one also has a compass http://cgi.ebay.com/Bicycle-Compass-Ring-Bell-Bike-Handle-Bell-Aluminum-/170622055281?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b9ddf371
ambroseliao
100 kW
dbaker said:Bells are less than $1. This one also has a compass http://cgi.ebay.com/Bicycle-Compass-Ring-Bell-Bike-Handle-Bell-Aluminum-/170622055281?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b9ddf371
I have one of those and the little compass/globe will eventually break off. I found it the first time and tried to glue it back in with no luck. The second time it fell off, it disappeared. Best to buy one that doesn't have the compass since they tend to be louder as well.
Ambrose
icecube57
10 MW
This is replying to chroot
My consumption is about 60-65 when Im riding dirty. But I also use the speed limit modes. I always program one of my speed switches to something that is legal qnd it can match my pedal cadence. So I have my Speed 1 set around 20 mph. This yeilds me the best efficiency and power consumption between 12-16wh a mile if im pedaling and in the low 20s if im just letting the bike do all the work. But my my true comfortable cadence is 16-18mph and if i set cruise to that speed and pedal along I have over a 100 mile range by doing that but i have a larger pack.
If you ride every day and need you neeed to go the distance cruise control is a must and or the speed switches. Even though you can flip a switch and go to a higher speed bracket or a unrestricted mode it still helps you with self control.
For your voltage try limiting your throttle range to 45-50% it will put you in the mid to high to high 20s as far as speed and you should get 28 miles on level ground. If you need extra power just flip the switch and then flip back. But you data shows that you either spend alot of time in a bad efficiency/speed range or you have a shit load of hills. See what your average speed is. If its in the teens you life in a hilly area but if its in the 20s you live in a flat area and there is no excuse for you to have such low miles. Have you did a capacity check on your cells to make sure that one is not hitting lvc before the others.
At your high voltage you are not letting the motor wind out to top speed completely. The motor never does reach a BEMF equillibrium meaning the amps never taper off because your motor cant reach top speeed while loaded to generate enough BEMF to choke the amps down. By you using your speed switches you can artifically modify this point with high voltage setups. With high voltage setups you may never reach the point to where your amps taper off at cruising speed so you have to force the controller to limit the speed and once it approaches the speed it will drop the amps so that it doesnt overshoot the set speed.
A 45 controller with no speed limit and the 9C being able to draw whatever it wants.. your wheel has to reach 52mph before the amps will drop and it will be consuming 45A at top speed. But the simulated top speed with a loaded rider is 47mph. This means you never reach top speed so the amps never drop.
If you program the 45A controller to a top speed of or 35mph. The wheel needs to be spinnning at 29mph before the amps drop and you will be consuming 20A to maintain your top speed of 35mph.
This shifts the power band alot but it will perform solidly and have plenty of power up the mid to high 20s after that you loose power. It may be a better option for you to program the bike to 40mph top speed if you need more power avaliable at top speed.
Even though you limit speed you never limit the amount of power the bike can dump into the motor off the line so you take a slight performance losss with the reduction of speed but if you program your top speed to where the knee of the current consumption falls after your "passing speed" but before your top speed then you wont be wasting power and you still will have all the torque avaliable to you.
I say passing speed because you have to program the controller with a high enough top speed where you still have plenty of acceleration between a certain speed bracket so if you program for a top speed of 40mph its going to have strong acceleration up to 33-34 mph after that it will slow crawl up to top speed because your amps are tapering off but if you program you controller to 45mph top speed you shift that speed bracket up 5mph to where you will be accelerating good up 38-39mph and then the amps taper off. You want you power to taper off at the right time so you have avaliable torque to get get you out of situation. You set it your top speed to low your bike will feel very anemic and wont have any passing power.
My best advice to you is to choose a speed mode and set 35mph as your top speed. If you need more power set it to 40mph any higher you are wasting power. This is your high speed cruising profile to where you will get the best of both worlds cause the motor will never reach your real top speed and it will waste wh trying to get there. Then you can set a legal 20mph mode and an unrestricted mode for full speed/power. You could be like me and drop down to 18s 66v Perfect voltage and top speed of 40mph on the nose. With no waste. Im happy with my power and Im Fluffy. ahhh damn u have 5s packs....
My consumption is about 60-65 when Im riding dirty. But I also use the speed limit modes. I always program one of my speed switches to something that is legal qnd it can match my pedal cadence. So I have my Speed 1 set around 20 mph. This yeilds me the best efficiency and power consumption between 12-16wh a mile if im pedaling and in the low 20s if im just letting the bike do all the work. But my my true comfortable cadence is 16-18mph and if i set cruise to that speed and pedal along I have over a 100 mile range by doing that but i have a larger pack.
If you ride every day and need you neeed to go the distance cruise control is a must and or the speed switches. Even though you can flip a switch and go to a higher speed bracket or a unrestricted mode it still helps you with self control.
For your voltage try limiting your throttle range to 45-50% it will put you in the mid to high to high 20s as far as speed and you should get 28 miles on level ground. If you need extra power just flip the switch and then flip back. But you data shows that you either spend alot of time in a bad efficiency/speed range or you have a shit load of hills. See what your average speed is. If its in the teens you life in a hilly area but if its in the 20s you live in a flat area and there is no excuse for you to have such low miles. Have you did a capacity check on your cells to make sure that one is not hitting lvc before the others.
At your high voltage you are not letting the motor wind out to top speed completely. The motor never does reach a BEMF equillibrium meaning the amps never taper off because your motor cant reach top speeed while loaded to generate enough BEMF to choke the amps down. By you using your speed switches you can artifically modify this point with high voltage setups. With high voltage setups you may never reach the point to where your amps taper off at cruising speed so you have to force the controller to limit the speed and once it approaches the speed it will drop the amps so that it doesnt overshoot the set speed.
A 45 controller with no speed limit and the 9C being able to draw whatever it wants.. your wheel has to reach 52mph before the amps will drop and it will be consuming 45A at top speed. But the simulated top speed with a loaded rider is 47mph. This means you never reach top speed so the amps never drop.
If you program the 45A controller to a top speed of or 35mph. The wheel needs to be spinnning at 29mph before the amps drop and you will be consuming 20A to maintain your top speed of 35mph.
This shifts the power band alot but it will perform solidly and have plenty of power up the mid to high 20s after that you loose power. It may be a better option for you to program the bike to 40mph top speed if you need more power avaliable at top speed.
Even though you limit speed you never limit the amount of power the bike can dump into the motor off the line so you take a slight performance losss with the reduction of speed but if you program your top speed to where the knee of the current consumption falls after your "passing speed" but before your top speed then you wont be wasting power and you still will have all the torque avaliable to you.
I say passing speed because you have to program the controller with a high enough top speed where you still have plenty of acceleration between a certain speed bracket so if you program for a top speed of 40mph its going to have strong acceleration up to 33-34 mph after that it will slow crawl up to top speed because your amps are tapering off but if you program you controller to 45mph top speed you shift that speed bracket up 5mph to where you will be accelerating good up 38-39mph and then the amps taper off. You want you power to taper off at the right time so you have avaliable torque to get get you out of situation. You set it your top speed to low your bike will feel very anemic and wont have any passing power.
My best advice to you is to choose a speed mode and set 35mph as your top speed. If you need more power set it to 40mph any higher you are wasting power. This is your high speed cruising profile to where you will get the best of both worlds cause the motor will never reach your real top speed and it will waste wh trying to get there. Then you can set a legal 20mph mode and an unrestricted mode for full speed/power. You could be like me and drop down to 18s 66v Perfect voltage and top speed of 40mph on the nose. With no waste. Im happy with my power and Im Fluffy. ahhh damn u have 5s packs....
@icecube- I do have the speed mode switch, yet set configuration programming on my lyen controller and however I used the CA's limit ampere 15A. I cruise control at 18mph on flat land. It only gave me 18 miles and it indicated 65wh/hr. I puzzled :?
Right now, My ebike is out of game due stupid lyen controller's mosfets burned out no reason, The CA was set to 15A, and cruised at 18mph. :x :?
Right now, My ebike is out of game due stupid lyen controller's mosfets burned out no reason, The CA was set to 15A, and cruised at 18mph. :x :?
icecube57
10 MW
Umm damn thats absolutely shameful.... You are supposed to have a 49 mile unassisted range on level ground.... at 15wh/mi 78 miles at 9.5wh/mi with pedaling with s 20s 2p pack If your bms is shutting the bike down I think a parallel pack maybe disconnected in your pack or a totally bad cell in one of your packs. Get your VM out and dont short the balance leads.. That would account for for a half reduction in your range. Check your parallel connections and cell voltages... As far as your controller blowing... doesnt makes since to me... then it never does you know... Ive been through atleast 5 myself.
I love but hate my Stand Alone Cycle Analyst with the molded shunt. Atleast I know I will have accurate results every ride.
I love but hate my Stand Alone Cycle Analyst with the molded shunt. Atleast I know I will have accurate results every ride.
grindz145
1 MW
chroot said:
How are you measuring that? Is it possible that your shunt is not calibrated? The only other way that I can think you would get that poor of performance is if you had the halls not setup properly. If thats the case the motor would have a bit of vibration to it. I found a few combinations when doing mine that weren't really that noticeable at first, yet they were still wrong.
My money is on poor shunt calibration.
Alan B
100 GW
Operating a 72V 9x7 motor capable of 45 mph in the 18mph region is likely to generate some heat in the controller and motor. This is similar to running a 36V 9x7 at 9mph. Is that an efficient operating point?
65 watt hours per mile sounds like something is not efficient (by a factor of 2 or 3), this indicates a lot of excess heat as well.
Regardless of it being speed switch or CA limiting, the ONLY knob available to actually control the current is PWM'ing the motor. This would be fairly small PWM duty cycles.
Average battery current may be 15 amps, but the low duty cycle PWM means the phase current is much higher. This heats motor and controller. What is the phase current limit? Is the motor getting hot?
I think this discussion should be in some other thread. Don't answer this here, find a better thread or start a new one.
65 watt hours per mile sounds like something is not efficient (by a factor of 2 or 3), this indicates a lot of excess heat as well.
Regardless of it being speed switch or CA limiting, the ONLY knob available to actually control the current is PWM'ing the motor. This would be fairly small PWM duty cycles.
Average battery current may be 15 amps, but the low duty cycle PWM means the phase current is much higher. This heats motor and controller. What is the phase current limit? Is the motor getting hot?
I think this discussion should be in some other thread. Don't answer this here, find a better thread or start a new one.
icecube57
10 MW
Im thinking his CA calibration hast to be off along with something wrong with his pack. I operate in a limit mode all the time with cruise set limiting my speed to 15-20mph and get amazing range.
GCinDC
100 MW
morning commutes have been dark and rainy. too rushed in the afternoon.
had to go in late, 9AM. very light. awesome sky. heaps of stinking metal traffic. yeeehooo! i'm gonna eat 'em up!
i hook the gopro up to my backpack shoulder straps, to position it over my solar plexus, and capture my hands on the handlebars. i fire it up to blast off and beep, beep, beep, the battery is dead.
dang shame folks. it was a sick commute. a lot of nice openings. passed five cops using the sidewalk, even if they wanted, they never could have passed traffic to catch me.
oh yeah, and i'm so bored of filming my commute, i'm quitting... april fools. that was gonna be my opener till hyena beat me to it.
had to go in late, 9AM. very light. awesome sky. heaps of stinking metal traffic. yeeehooo! i'm gonna eat 'em up!
i hook the gopro up to my backpack shoulder straps, to position it over my solar plexus, and capture my hands on the handlebars. i fire it up to blast off and beep, beep, beep, the battery is dead.
dang shame folks. it was a sick commute.
a lot of nice openings. passed five cops using the sidewalk, even if they wanted, they never could have passed traffic to catch me. oh yeah, and i'm so bored of filming my commute, i'm quitting... april fools. that was gonna be my opener till hyena beat me to it.
GCinDC
100 MW
Relax and build meanwell chargers? Come on, tell us how you reversed polarity and blew one in your office!dbaker said:We can relax now
No KFF? Any smoke? Was it a cap splat?
Sorry for calling you out here, but I'd like to know how to (avoid) blowing up a meanwell!
When you use alligator clips instead of bullets you have to pay attention to colors! A red sleeved bullet on my negative battery pack lead in the context of rushing to get through morning emails at work! There goes $100 
I am usually pretty focused at work, but that morning was the exception 
I am usually pretty focused at work, but that morning was the exception 
Not necessarily; I'm sure it can be fixed.dbaker said:There goes $100
AW,
I took a look at the MW and the 5 amp charger I series to get 100v. The charger had part of a trace vaporized and the AC fuse was blown. The MW had the input fuse intact but no output and the LED does not light. No visible charring. When you series connect a 100v battery with the charger now electronics see at least twice their operating voltage and damaging current will flow
I took a look at the MW and the 5 amp charger I series to get 100v. The charger had part of a trace vaporized and the AC fuse was blown. The MW had the input fuse intact but no output and the LED does not light. No visible charring. When you series connect a 100v battery with the charger now electronics see at least twice their operating voltage and damaging current will flow
Yeah, I've noticed that.
I would bet on output diodes (if any) and FETs, but it might only be the current-monitoring shunt, if it uses a wirewound resistor. This is what failed here:
(clickable thumbnail)
It's possible other things failed, too, as I have yet to get to checking it out.
I would bet on output diodes (if any) and FETs, but it might only be the current-monitoring shunt, if it uses a wirewound resistor. This is what failed here:
(clickable thumbnail)
It's possible other things failed, too, as I have yet to get to checking it out.
GCinDC
100 MW
bummer, dave!
i hit the cherry blossoms again after work for some timelapses with the gopro. wore it chest mount home. voltage started dropping a couple miles from home (at 7Ah) so i hooked up the lipo buzzers. got home with 1Ah to spare, so i took it up and down the nearby hill to see what voltage the pack would drop to before the buzzers went off (when one hit 3.3V). answer: ~67.5V under full load. the CA read exactly 9.3ah at that moment! rode it a block home and looked carefully, one got to 3.0V, and another just below 3.3V.
this is what happened before, so i'm reasonable certain none got to 2.7V... <phew>
1Ah per mile is the cost of doing business on my ride. not that much range honestly...
i hit the cherry blossoms again after work for some timelapses with the gopro. wore it chest mount home. voltage started dropping a couple miles from home (at 7Ah) so i hooked up the lipo buzzers. got home with 1Ah to spare, so i took it up and down the nearby hill to see what voltage the pack would drop to before the buzzers went off (when one hit 3.3V). answer: ~67.5V under full load. the CA read exactly 9.3ah at that moment! rode it a block home and looked carefully, one got to 3.0V, and another just below 3.3V.
this is what happened before, so i'm reasonable certain none got to 2.7V... <phew>
1Ah per mile is the cost of doing business on my ride. not that much range honestly...
amberwolf said:Yeah, I've noticed that.
I would bet on output diodes (if any) and FETs, but it might only be the current-monitoring shunt, if it uses a wirewound resistor. This is what failed here:
AW,
So you were able to fix it by replacing the 2 watt wirewound resistor?
Unfortunately, I don't know yet.
I'm still working on the DR bike today, (short break for lunch right now) so I don't know if I will get to checking it for a while.
amberwolf said:
I'm still working on the DR bike today, (short break for lunch right now) so I don't know if I will get to checking it for a while.
GCinDC
100 MW
footage was dog doo. nothing but handlebars. i guess i lean forward like a ski jumper, so it faces downward. chest out ain't gonna work.GCinDC said:
GCinDC
100 MW
[youtube]xCL2UaHZ-c4[/youtube]
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