I recently finished a ride on my freshly built 1000w 48v conversion kit, when my bike shut off sudenly. i looked at the switch of the battery and tried turning it off and back on again. but i realised that it was really loose and was not clicking in either the on or off position and is really loose. im thinking of replacing it but im scared about desoldering the internal wires because i dont know if ill set something off in the battery. i also wanted to check if the switch is a fixable solution that i dont have to replace.
Haliong battery switch problem
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LeoSuperMoin
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I would check the switch with a multimeter first to see of it's broken. If it is and it worked before then i would assume the current was to high for the switch and it melted it. If that is the case i wouldn't trust the battery anymore since the fuse should have gone off before it melted.
I suspect the switch in question is a BMS shutoff rather than high current switch.
You won't be desoldering - there'll be slack wire, so snip off the soldered ends so that you're starting with fresh copper. Consider for a replacement switch one with spade terminals, so that you can use crimped female spade terminals on the wires and be able to more easily replace future switches.
You won't be desoldering - there'll be slack wire, so snip off the soldered ends so that you're starting with fresh copper. Consider for a replacement switch one with spade terminals, so that you can use crimped female spade terminals on the wires and be able to more easily replace future switches.
molybdenum
⚡ Regular
I agree, not much current or voltage in the switch, but fix or bypass the switch asap as the bms or battery could get shorted with loose parts rattling around.
So it sounds like you don’t know if the switch is faulty, or if a solder joint is faulty, or if the switch is just loose but functional. You could bypass it with a screwdriver, etc., to see if the output conductors become energized, which requires opening the pack. On the other hand, if the switch is just loose, but functional, then it could be the BMS tripped. Have you tried disconnecting the battery from the controller, then fully charging it to see if the BMS will reset? I’d try that before opening the battery. Are you opposed to returning it?
How could i bypass the wires? There are 3 red wires going to one prong out of the two prongs on the switch.
If you have access to the two blades, Flip the switch to on, which is the same as putting a wire or screwdriver between the two blades. Then you could short the two blades (with a wire or screwdriver) to see if the battery provides output. If that’s the actual picture of you switch (not connected), then you could just check that the switch is good with your ohm meter.
If the switch is functional, or shorting doesn’t work, then the BMS may have tripped.
Thing is the switch is not mechanically working like it does t physically switch into the on or off position
This is what it looks like btw
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The red #1 is the back of the switch while the 2 is a cable I believe disconnected from the other prong of the switch because the solder looks broken and the switch seems to have solder on the naked prong. To bypass the switch entirely should I just solder the broken off wire to the wires on the switch?
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Bad workmanship.
You need to replace the switch, with a better quality one ideally.
Like I said, you can avoid soldering by using spade terminals.
You can use a screw terminal to secure the two detached cables that are bonded together by a blob of solder. You'd use a seperate short section of wire to connect to the switch. I.e. merge the two cables plus a third short section in a screw terminal, such as used in domestic household junction boxes. Crimp a female spade terminal onto the short section, to connect to the switch.
You need to replace the switch, with a better quality one ideally.
Like I said, you can avoid soldering by using spade terminals.
You can use a screw terminal to secure the two detached cables that are bonded together by a blob of solder. You'd use a seperate short section of wire to connect to the switch. I.e. merge the two cables plus a third short section in a screw terminal, such as used in domestic household junction boxes. Crimp a female spade terminal onto the short section, to connect to the switch.
Note that there are several types of BMS's. Some are always "on", some can be turned "off", and some can automatically turn on or off. The ones that are always on, draw a small amount of current, usually from a single parallel group, when the battery isn't being used. If the battery is stored for a long period of time without periodic charging/balancing, it could kill the one group. I believe the BMS's that can be switched off can avoid this issue (not certain, some may not, other members may chime in). My BMS turns itself off after a certain amount of time if no current is being drawn from the battery, and turns itself back on when I senses load being applied. Just something you may want to consider before just bypassing the switch.
That's a nice feature. Which BMS is that?
Mine is a BALANCE100, but similar JBD and some Daly BMSs also have an automatic sleep mode.
Just to be clear, there is still an extremely low parasitic load, but really low by comparison (82.4uA (0.082mA), but that probably would take years to kill a cell group.
Do you mean if you didn't turn the ebike off, after a certain period of time, the BMS would turn power off to the ebike? I assume bluetooth is never turned off, which would account for the 0.082mA draw.
I read somewhere it's made by Daly.
AI Overview
Yes, the
100Balance BMS is a specialized, active-balancing series produced by DALY BMS (Dongguan Balanced Management Technology Co., Ltd.). It acts as a high-performance sub-brand or, as noted on YouTube, a premium product line from Daly featuring built-in 1A active balancing, unlike their traditional passive models.
edit: Does your's have wifi?
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I'm picturing a wire between those with blobs of solder.
I got the non Wi-Fi. If I got another, I might go with Wi-Fi. The Bluetooth range reaches my living room, but not the other side of the house. It’s nice to remotely monitor the charging and temps, if I need to step away for a while.
I think if you don’t power off the bike/controller, it will detect the current draw and won’t shutdown. Im not sure about how the Bluetooth is powered, but once it shuts down, i have to turn on the bike before I can see the BMS Bluetooth.
On my JBD BMS, Bluetooth is always on. I think it's PITA to have to have to manually turn Bluetooth on after it times out. Googled and found this (not sure if true) "To keep your 100balance (Daly) BMS Bluetooth active, open the app, navigate to parameter settings, and set the "Sleep Time" (or auto-sleep) to a high value, such as 65535 seconds."
I also have the issue with Bluetooth not reaching some parts of the house. Maybe I'll play around with an uninstalled BMS that I have and see if the range can be extended.
I always plug the charger into a Smartplug so I can monitor the charger's power consumption and be able to control it remotely by Phone. I say: "Alexa, turn off charger at 1 pm" and it responds with: "I've created a one time automation to turn off charger at 1 pm". Or I say: "Alexa turn on charger" and it responds with "ok" and the Smartplug (charger) goes on. These automation routines can be seen in the Alexa app. Very cool.
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So i just plugged in my new switch to those 2 wires (a much more powerful better switch) and the battery turned on and i did a free spin in the air with the motor and it worked great..... BUT as soon as i sat down and rode the bike turned off and the battery indicator was not turning on and i tried plugging it in but it would not charge pls help!
