Haliong battery switch problem

[E-HP]

On my JBD BMS, Bluetooth is always on. I think it's PITA to have to have to manually turn Bluetooth on after it times out. Googled and found this (not sure if true) "To keep your 100balance (Daly) BMS Bluetooth active, open the app, navigate to parameter settings, and set the "Sleep Time" (or auto-sleep) to a high value, such as 65535 seconds.”

Thanks for the tip. I actually like that it goes to sleep, since I only only use it to monitor charging. But, adding maybe 2 hours or so would help in my case, since after a ride, lot of times I’ll want to know the ending charge level after I’ve already been upstairs for a while.

I don’t generally trust ChatGPT unless I’ve asked a question a half dozen different ways, but here’s what it said about active balancing BMS parasitic loads. Im guessing Idle would be similar to what a normal BMS would be drawing when the pack has no load:

Operating State	Typical Current Draw	Notes
Sleep / shipping mode	5–50 µA	Good designs drop very low
Idle (monitoring only)	0.5–5 mA	MCU + cell monitors active
Balancing enabled (no transfer happening)	2–15 mA	Balancing circuitry powered
Active balancing running	20–200 mA (pack-side equivalent)	Depends strongly on topology
Poorly optimized designs	10–30 mA continuous	Common in cheap BMS boards

Real-World Examples (Typical)​

(Not exact specs — representative engineering values)

• Daly active balancer: ~3–8 mA idle
• JK BMS active balancing: ~2–6 mA idle
• Orion BMS (industrial): ~1–3 mA monitoring
• TI reference designs: ~1–4 mA system-level

 

[glennb]

The switch itself seems to be melted:

View attachment 385134

You zoomed, cropped and drew on the photo? Nicely done. (I need to improve my IT skills).

it's a junk switch not even good for ten amps, so could well have overheated in use, but nothing to suggest the damage didn't occur during assembly - you can bet they used a big arse soldering iron to expedite the production line. Male spade terminals mate with female spade terminals ... not dirty big blobs of solder.

 

[E-HP]

You zoomed, cropped and drew on the photo? Nicely done. (I need to improve my IT skills).

it's a junk switch not even good for ten amps, so could well have overheated in use, but nothing to suggest the damage didn't occur during assembly - you can bet they used a big arse soldering iron to expedite the production line. Male spade terminals mate with female spade terminals ... not dirty big blobs of solder.

In most cases it controls a mosfet, so only takes a few mA at 5V. The OP can measure it since the case is opened up. I agree the switch is junk though.

 

[glennb]

Yep, except both the switch and cable size are excessive for signal wiring, and you'll never see that in cheap batteries. They pinch every penny. (Including on terminals, with solder being the most economical in terms of materials and labour.)

 

[E-HP]

Yep, except both the switch and cable size are excessive for signal wiring, and you'll never see that in cheap batteries. They pinch every penny. (Including on terminals, with solder being the most economical in terms of materials and labour.)

They use whatever scap wire they have on hand. You don’t need those thick conductors for a 40mA usb port either.

It appears to be a separate port bms with mosfet controlled on/off circuitry. The battery positive for the switch k+ is being taken from the charge port for convenience due to location of the switch, relative to the charging port.

 

[99t4]

You zoomed, cropped and drew on the photo? Nicely done. (I need to improve my IT skills).

My quick'n'dirty method:

1. Rt-click > copy photo right from OP's post
2. Open mspaint.exe (Win10)
3. Paste photo
4. Crop photo to desired area (this gave the illusion of zoomed?)
5. Drew (two circles) with pencil "brush"
6. Copied modified image
7. Pasted into my new post

 

[glennb]

Cheers. Does sound quick and easy. I forget about mspaint. I've used gimp and Inkscape in the past, but they're slow to load on my ancient notebook.

(Apologies OP, for the off topic.)