Hall Trouble, with Pix

[spdas]

Aloha, I mentioned before I am getting jerky starts and suspect the Halls. Here are the tips from Leaf to trouble-shout and what the results:

Connect all wires,power on.Just disconnect that white big plug with five wires( yellow,blue,green,red,black)
Then measure controller’s hall sensor:
* The voltage of red and black is about 5.0V OK
* The voltage of yellow and black is about 5.0V OK
* The voltage of blue and black is about 5.0V OK
* The voltage of green and black is about 5.0V 0 volts, but when I disconnect from controller, the green controller wire has 5 volts,

so the green hall wire is shorting or the green hall is shorting. But there is no continuety from green wire to ground.
I do not see a "hall board" like I see in other apart motors. Leaf gave me more tips, but it seems the problem is with the green hall wire.

Ideas?

Here are photos of the NON-GEARED motor.
Thanks Francis

 

[Ykick]

They're embedded on the side in the 1st picture. 3 wires each. You could've tested them while eleminating a possible controller issue using a battery and pull-up resistor. In fact, I would do that before you go digging them out from the laminations.

Here's my thread of replacing Hall Sensors and wiring on a 9C motor few years back -

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=48114&hilit=phase+wire

There's also a thread (search in my history) which I demo testing Hall Sensors without using a controller. Very simple and wise thing to do before going through the trouble of Sensor replacement only to discover your controller is FUBAR....

 

[dogman dan]

Doesn't sound to me like you did the test right,, but maybe I'm just misunderstanding what I read.

Put the cover back on the motor, so you can turn it.

Connect 3-4v to the red black wires on the motor. two or three 1.5v dry cells, one 4v lithium cell, whatever. just not more than 5v.

Connect voltmeter to the black wire, and one of the colors. Turn the motor, and look for the hall sensor to toggle on and off as the magnets pass by. Repeat for the other colors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-brushless-Motor-Controller-Tester-For-24V-36V-48V-60V-Electro-Car-Scooter-/131143747188?hash=item1e88c6c674:g:XywAAOxyhXRTJ~uM

Priceles tool to have for testing both motor and controllers.

 

[Ykick]

Doesn't sound to me like you did the test right,, but maybe I'm just misunderstanding what I read.

Put the cover back on the motor, so you can turn it.

Connect 3-4v to the red black wires on the motor. two or three 1.5v dry cells, one 4v lithium cell, whatever. just not more than 5v.

Connect voltmeter to the black wire, and one of the colors. Turn the motor, and look for the hall sensor to toggle on and off as the magnets pass by. Repeat for the other colors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-brushless-Motor-Controller-Tester-For-24V-36V-48V-60V-Electro-Car-Scooter-/131143747188?hash=item1e88c6c674:g:XywAAOxyhXRTJ~uM

Priceles tool to have for testing both motor and controllers.

I agree the testing appears to be flawed. But, if I understand your description, using only a battery often won't work correctly unless a pull-up resistor is placed across signal pin to positive supply. Roughly 5-15k resistor. Common Hall Sensors are actually good to 30VDC supply.

I've heard about some newer sensors which contain the pull-up resistor (perhaps what you're thinking of?) and may test as you describe. They're limited to 15VDC supply, IIRC?

Here's a golden oldie thread which provides the basic testing required to qualify Hall Sensor operation without relying on the controller or tester:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=57053&hilit=+hall+sensor+testing

 

[dogman dan]

Plenty of electronic shit I will never understand. But I think you just power up a halls, then wave a magnet past it, and watch it switch on and off to test. If the core is out of the wheel, you just grab a strong magnet and make the halls turn on and off manually. Easier to do this by spinning an assembled wheel.

I could have anything mis typed. I'm that brain damaged after the west nile virus. Its been a good 6 years since I have done a halls test with a bare voltmeter. The motor tester is my tool now.

To use that tester, you hook up the tester to the halls plug, then you spin the wheel by hand. the tester has a battery inside that provides the halls power.