Haoqi not much information on them, I want to upgrade from 750w to 2000w 48v system can I do this or do I have to stick to a1500w, ???

You'll have to replace pretty much everything on there (motor, battery, controller, display, wiring, etc, and probably various mechanical parts of the bike) to do what you want, so you should just buy the bike that actually does what you want to start with.

Otherwise you'll be spending more money than it would cost you to do that in the first place, and wasting a lot of time hackng stuff together to get it to fit on there and work.
 
You'll have to replace pretty much everything on there (motor, battery, controller, display, wiring, etc, and probably various mechanical parts of the bike) to do what you want, so you should just buy the bike that actually does what you want to start with.

Otherwise you'll be spending more money than it would cost you to do that in the first place, and wasting a lot of time hackng stuff together to get it to fit on there and work.
Ty for answering I bought it slightly used for $800 so I'm willing to spend a little bit more for better performance but not too much ,I just don't have 5 grand for what I really want. Thank again
 
What do you really want?
You could build a DIY 45mph capable dual suspension bike with a mondo battery for well under 3 grand.

What's 5 grand?
 
Ty for answering I bought it slightly used for $800 so I'm willing to spend a little bit more for better performance but not too much ,I just don't have 5 grand for what I really want. Thank again
Ride it until you get $800 of fun out of it while you take your time and plan your dream bike build.
 
Ty for answering I bought it slightly used for $800 so I'm willing to spend a little bit more for better performance but not too much ,I just don't have 5 grand for what I really want. Thank again
You'll need to specify what job you need ti to do for you, under what riding conditions, so that you can find out how much power it takes to do that, how much battery to do it for the time you want, etc.

If you don't know what I mean, you can look up that general phrasing in the many many other threads by people who want to upgrade but don't realize they need to know what they want to do first before they can buy something that will do that for them.


FWIW, the battery on there is only meant to handle the power of the original system. If you want more power out of it, you'll need to replace the battery with one that can handle all the power of whatever you're going to change to.

So you will still almost certainly need to replace the motor, controller, wiring, display etc on there, as previously noted, making it cheaper to start out buying the bike you actually need instead of trying to upgrade this one.

I'd recommend selling this one to recoup your cost and investing that into what you actually want.
 
To all the above, I'll add that if you really want a bike that does a motorcycle's job, use a motorcycle. Nominally 750W bikes are plenty zippy for the bicycle format, even when they're hamstrung with pointless fat knobby tires to slow them down and weigh them down.

If you ride it, your e-bike is more valuable as a learning tool than as a basis for a high power project. Ride it, make observations, figure out what feels good to you rather than what you now think you want.
 
Just use a 72 volt battery and controller and after you melt the stock motor you can decide if it's worth keeping or building something else.
I'm new but not stupid no good reason for the answer hillslayer , can you tell me how to remove the speed limiter?
 

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How fast does the wheel spin with no load (full throttle, wheel off the ground)? How fast does it go when on the road?
To clarify for the original poster: If the wheel spins significantly faster in the air than it does on the road in easy conditions, then your speed limitation is the result of limited power. If the top speed is the same either way, then it's electronically limited by the controller to comply with regulations.

In the case of the former, you'll need more power to go faster-- see amberwolf's comments about that. If it's the latter, you can go (a little) faster by replacing the controller and display with unrestricted versions.
 
To clarify for the original poster: If the wheel spins significantly faster in the air than it does on the road in easy conditions, then your speed limitation is the result of limited power.
Note that even adding power, the motor will not spin faster than the no load speed, which is the limit based on the motor’s Kv rating and the voltage applied at full throttle.
 
To clarify for the original poster: If the wheel spins significantly faster in the air than it does on the road in easy conditions, then your speed limitation is the result of limited power. If the top speed is the same either way, then it's electronically limited by the controller to comply with regulations.

In the case of the former, you'll need more power to go faster-- see amberwolf's comments about that. If it's the latter, you can go (a little) faster by replacing the controller and display with unrestricted versions.
32 mph off the ground 24 while on the road and l am 160lbs
 
32 mph off the ground 24 while on the road and l am 160lbs
Well, either a peppier battery or a zestier controller, probably combined (because the battery you have is likely maxed out doing the job it has now), would give you both higher top speed and better acceleration and climbing.
 
So change the controller
At 24mph, the wind resistance (load) is fairly small, so adding more power may not yield much, if any, speed increase. Going up in voltage will increase speed, all else being equal.
Here's a comparison of a fat bike with a 20A controller and one with a 40A controller. Speed gain is negligible (0.1mph).

1748309672086.png

 
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