Help: Crystalyte cogging badly after rebuild; not working

Jesse

1 µW
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Mar 19, 2014
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First time poster, long time lurker here. Apologies if this was answered, I looked for a long time before deciding to register and post.

Short version: After burning up and replacing my phase wires, my Crystalyte 2440 is cogging severely without the controller connected. It won't do anything when I hit the throttle. What could be the problem?

Detailed version: I've got a Lyen 12 FET sonsored controller, a Crystalyte 2440, and a 20S1P LiPo battery. I took the bike out for it's first test run yesterday, and after about a minute of riding mostly WOT, the motor stopped, and I had to work very hard to pedal home. I expected this to happen at some point, though I was surprised just how quickly. I don't recall what currents I had set up in the controller (I set them last summer when I was messing around with a 9c with a rounded axle. I gave up on that and just bought the crystalyte). I took the motor apart, immediately smelled that "something electrical fried in here" smell, and noticed evidence of the phase wires arcing. Insulation on one of the phase wires was split. I was amazed at just how crappy those wires are. My 9c had better phase wiring. Anyways, I replaced with some beefier wire and got everything put back together. With nothing wired up, the motor cogs pretty badly. I didn't consciously see how it was cogging before, but I think I would have noticed if it was this bad. When I tie any two phases together, the wheel resists turning, but without the detent/cogging feeling. Hooked up to the controller, nothing happens. I checked my halls. Checked my throttle. Took apart the controller, inspected, and tested resistance of FETs. All looked good. Noticed Hall sensor and throttle supply voltage is only at 4.2V. Don't know what it was before.

Anyone with experience have any advice on what else to look at, or what the problem may be?
 
Check the continuity of your motor phases, to each other and to earth, it sounds like you have one going to ground.
 
Well, I feel like an idgit. Should have been able to figure that one out on my own. I had checked continuity between phases, but not to ground. Turns out I was shorted...
 
Jesse said:
Well, I feel like an idgit. Should have been able to figure that one out on my own. I had checked continuity between phases, but not to ground. Turns out I was shorted...


Check where you soldered the phase wires to the copper windings. If you don't have proper insulation at that point, the wires will press the bare parts of the junction against the stator
 
It turned out to be a pinched phase wire when I tightened the cover back on. Redid that and we're back in business.

Except that now I've got a trio of bad hall sensors, which I'm guessing means that I had shorted one of those wires to ground as well, and when I hit the throttle in testing I fried the suckers with ~80V. The fun never ends...

Parts are ordered, I'm hoping to be back on the road in a week or so. Thanks for the help so far!
 
I think it's a good idea to keep a spare set of halls, they aren't expensive and it can save days in getting mobile again. (I keep my spares inside my ebike tester case).
 
alsmith said:
I think it's a good idea to keep a spare set of halls, they aren't expensive and it can save days in getting mobile again. (I keep my spares inside my ebike tester case).


Agreed. Last time I ordered from Arrow, I stocked up on halls, FETs, and reed switches
 
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