Help needed (based in London, UK, but willing to travel)

[Stevo UK]

Hi,

I first planned to create my own ebike (for commuting and fun!), and therefore undertake an organic approach to the ev scene. Building my knowledge, and skills along the way.

However whilst researching ebikes, and scanning the for the 'For Sale' sections of many 'publications' for parts etc., I hit the jackpot, and managed to get a fully set-up bike with a 'big' rear hub-motor.

All was well, until I went for a bit off-roading around a local patch.

Not going too fast, as I was still building my confidence on the bike, and gauging its (and my own) capabilities. I was riding along the track when I came to a section that looked unfamiliar. An area that usually has a small stream crossing the track had been gravelled over (tonnes of it!) presumably to raise the path above the raised water level, due to the recent flooding . Slowing down even further, I slowly made my way over the gravel. I then decided to give it some throttle as once i was in the gravel my speed dropped even further. Upon using the throttle the rear wheel span spitting gravel, and the wheel just dug in, bringing me to an abrupt halt, and almost causing me to crash!

Once out the gravel/mud I thought i'd be fine to carry on, however trying to use the throttle once again after setting off, the motor burbled and went dead. I cycled back home (single speed, so lots of fun!).

I contacted the guy who sold the me the bike; as he said that he would be happy to help me out if their was ever an issue with the bike. He gave me a few tests to do:

Any resistance in the motor/wheel when spun? - none: motor is heavy, but the wheel turns smoothly & consistently.
Any noise? - no, slight disc brake rub
I haven't even got a multimeter yet (I am a noob Can you guys recommend a good make/model?), so was unable to do anything relating to that type of testing.

Playing around with her last night I discovered that if the wheel had a bit of momentum, and then the throttle used, the motor seemed to work fine, + sounded normal. However when rear wheel is not moving, or moving slowly it doesn't work. I haven't tried riding it again, as I don't want to risk damaging anything further.

So I thought I'd reach out to you guys, and see if anyone may be in a position to help. I don't mind 'rewarding' you for your time, and expertise; but as I currently lack tools and knowledge, I'm needing hands-on assistance.

If you think you might be able to physically help, please PM me for more details, or to arrange a meeting. I don't mind traveling. Or if you can recommend a business, please feel free to contact me.

Sorry if I've been a bit vague in my set-up details, but as the ebike community is quite close/small I don't want to be giving the seller a bad name - they are not a dealer, and have been really helpful, but unfortunately they live quite a distance away; and at the end of the day this issue is my fault, not theirs; they sold the bike to move onto new ventures, and its not really fair that I'm bugging them all the time.

I look forward to hearing from you.

Ps
I have a Montague Paratrooper (almost new) available, that I was going to use as my first project bike

 

[drsolly]

I'm at the end of the Metropolitan line, near Chalfont and Latimer. I've got a multimeter and a device that lets me test whether your halls work and your motor windings. If you'd be willing to fetch the bike out here, I'll have a look. No charge (and no guarantee!). I know how it feels when you think you might have messed up your bike :-(. From what you said "if the wheel had a bit of momentum, and then the throttle used, the motor seemed to work fine, + sounded normal" it doesn't sound too dreadful. Maybe the halls? My tester will definitely diagnose hall problems.

Message me if you're interested.

 

[Stevo UK]

To help a bit more with the diagnosis the motor is a Crystalyte 4080 with Magura throttle

I have (hopefully) added a link below to show how the motor is when running (seems normal), and how if it is stopped/still it doesnt want to do anything.

[youtube]http://youtu.be/5-zW6PYP96o[/youtube]

[youtubehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-zW6PYP96o&feature=youtu.be][/youtube]

I'm just nervous that if I start taking it apart I might not know how to put it back together, and if I do find a problem how I would go about resolving the issue.

 

[Stevo UK]

Links didn't quite workout!

but if you copy and paste them (excluding the [youtube][/youtube]) they take you to the video

 

[Stevo UK]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-zW6PYP96o&feature=youtu.be

 

[Hillhater]

London is a big area.
It may help if you gave your suburb or post code.

 

[Stevo UK]

Thanks for the suggestion.

I'm based in Hendon, North West London. NW9.

Transport around London isn't too bad. So nowhere's too far for me to get to. My work regularly takes me all over London.

I also have a car, which I can use to get the bike almost anywhere in the UK if need be.

 

[rich43]

I agree people with high power ebikes in UK are few and far between. So far I have only met someone with an electric moped and I have helped forum member lotrwiz (from south england) to build a similar bike to mine.

I can come down if you like (with some tools, test parts, different speed controller etc), I have a high power ebike aswell. You can see it here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=55913

I am about an hour and a half away on the train (100 miles). Or you can drive it up to me, since I have a 16x8 shed full of ebike/electronics gear.

Add me on Skype: richie43
If your interested, let me know

Edit: drsolly lives closer to you, so might want to try to get hold of him first.
Edit2: Can you dry it out with a hair dryer? Does the hub motor have a cover you can take off so you can dry out its internals? Is your throttle wet? Are you 100% sure your batteries are OK? Are there any loose/corroded connections?
Edit3: Talk to my friend below

 

[lotrwiz]

Hey, I run 83v, with a big rear hub, I live near brighton. Add me on skype so we can talk, same as my name on here!

 

[Stevo UK]

Thanks everyone. The seller got back to me.

He is going to have a look at the bike & take it back home with him to see what the issue is and hopefully fix it.

I'll update you with the cause of the issue as soon as i know.

 

[alsmith]

That's good news. I hope you have it back all working soon.

It might be helpful for the future if you add your location into your profile, it'll then show on all of your posts. Go to user control panel (top right) and it's in the profile option.

 

[Stevo UK]

Thanks Everyone.

I have ordered my multimeter - just waiting for it to arrive.

The seller has reported that 2 of the 3 hall sensors where faulty, and needed to be replaced.

All being well the bike should be ready for collection Saturday evening - so I'll be going on another road trip.

Whilst this is great news I am still a little disappointed that I never got 'hands-on' myself. I learn best by doing a bit of everything - reading/researching, listening, doing. Without practical experience I think I'll struggle with remedying issues in the future.

Its a shame the are no ebike classes/tuition available - covering all aspect of ebike assembly, maintenance, repair, electronics, etc, etc.

There are now plenty of successful DIY biking 'classes/surgeries' popping up but nothing that covers ebikes. Business opportunity??

Any recommendations on a good soldering kit?

Cheers

 

[drsolly]

I use a 60w electric iron, and a stand to put it in when not in use. I also use a little table vice for holding work being soldered, and I've just started using a jig that holds the connector, and holds the wire being soldered into it.

 

[alsmith]

It depends on what you want to solder. I'm not a collector of soldering irons but now have 5 different ones- a small 17W one for fine work (IC's etc), a larger one (25-30W) for general electrical stuff, a more powerful larger one not really used since I got a temperature controlled soldering station which is fine for the majority of work. Finally I have a gas powered unit- very handy and very hot, also good for heatshrink.
As a good all round tool the soldering station is probably best but cost more than just Irons. Less expensive ones will have less power, and a wired Iron rather than cordless but are great for the money. Inexpensive budget ones similar to the PARKSIDE PLS 48 are pretty good, it is also temperature controlled so can be turned down for delicate stuff, or up for things more heavily heatsunk.
Also good for the new solder that needs a bit more heat than the old (and better) lead solder and even silver solder that normal single temperature Irons can't manage or struggle with.