Help needed with new Scooter
- Thread starter Vasilis69
- Start date
So i could connect a module there to diagnose it and maybe reprogram it? Any ideas?
For starters, i bought This to see if i can do something, but i am not optimistic. I just want to make tests to the controller.
Now, i want to buy the below from an EU warehouse, so they can arrive faster and not to have to pay taxes from China.
Controller
Screen
Switches
I want to ask something important now. I see that the new controller says hall angle 60 degrees, my old controller says phase angle 120 degrees. Will it work?
Now, i want to buy the below from an EU warehouse, so they can arrive faster and not to have to pay taxes from China.
Controller
Screen
Switches
I want to ask something important now. I see that the new controller says hall angle 60 degrees, my old controller says phase angle 120 degrees. Will it work?
Update as of today. I cancelled the order from AliExpress, because i am not sure if they will indeed fit and if Votol EM-150sp has self-learning function. No one can reply this to me and i have not found something on the Internet. I don't want to have problems with hall/phase angles.
I am waiting for the USB to RS485 adaptor and if i am lucky maybe i can get some readings about my controller/motor and then i can get to the next step.
For the time being, i made a better soldering job on my current controller and upgraded all 4 capacitors from 100v-330μf to 100v-440μf. Plus i changed the 63A relay that my scooter had to an 80A automatic fuse. Total speed has not increased but for sure we have better torque now. It is very noticeable.
Next upgrade will be to change the positive and negative wires with good quality ones to try and minimise the voltage drop / stabilize it when going full throttle.
These are just small upgrades that cost almost nothing and can make it a lot safer/better.
I am waiting for the USB to RS485 adaptor and if i am lucky maybe i can get some readings about my controller/motor and then i can get to the next step.
For the time being, i made a better soldering job on my current controller and upgraded all 4 capacitors from 100v-330μf to 100v-440μf. Plus i changed the 63A relay that my scooter had to an 80A automatic fuse. Total speed has not increased but for sure we have better torque now. It is very noticeable.
Next upgrade will be to change the positive and negative wires with good quality ones to try and minimise the voltage drop / stabilize it when going full throttle.
These are just small upgrades that cost almost nothing and can make it a lot safer/better.
Attachments
A far driver sinewave controller you can't go wrong with those
Will give a look at them as well, apart from Votol. Thanks for this
I tried to search on this forum but i could not find anything. Any idea if you can put somehow a temperature sensor or generally, how to check temperatures of controller?
Handheld of infrared thermometer like the ones that mechanics use and they pointed at different parts of an engine that should work
True, i have this infrared thermometer, but i do not have access to the controller all the time, especially while i am riding.
I want to see what temps i get during full speed like "real - time" information
Type K wire bead thermocouple https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...SZ98mC5Y&utparam-url=scene:search|query_from:
Use RTV Silicone to attach the bead to whatever you want to measure.
Use RTV Silicone to attach the bead to whatever you want to measure.
Thanks! Already ordered it. Will revert once i make more upgrades.
Hello everyone, i have this controller as you see in the photo. No idea on brand i cannot find anything on the Internet for it.
However, i changed the capacitors to bigger ones and fixed the soldering on the board.
I wanted to connect this with my pc to see if i can get any data or even program it. So i bought also the attached adaptor.
I made the connections to 485A, 485B and ground and it can be connected to the pc. I used also a multimeter and i can see i have 5v on the usd when the scooter is powered on, so i think i am ok from connections side, right?
Any ideas on what program i could use?
However, i changed the capacitors to bigger ones and fixed the soldering on the board.
I wanted to connect this with my pc to see if i can get any data or even program it. So i bought also the attached adaptor.
I made the connections to 485A, 485B and ground and it can be connected to the pc. I used also a multimeter and i can see i have 5v on the usd when the scooter is powered on, so i think i am ok from connections side, right?
Any ideas on what program i could use?
Attachments
Programming software is specific to brand and model (and sometimes version) of controller, so you'd have to know what controller it is, and that software would come from the controller manufacturer. Sometimes the controller sellers have it too, but not usually.
Controller manufacturer told me to speak with the re-seller in Greece, the re-seller in Greece has no idea.
But yeah, you are right. Let me try again once more.
My Fly 7 scooter had a 60V 20 Ah lead acid battery (5x SLA in series), fully charged 65V. Top speed 25 mph, acceleration was dangerously slow with the lead acid's voltage sag.
I built a 22S 30Ah LiFePo4 battery (73.5V fully charged) for it, using the same controller. Upping the voltage and changing battery chemistry changed top speed to 40 MPH. Acceleration is no longer dangerously slow.
Did you get your thermocouple. The probe is only 3 meter long. Longer probes are available if needed.
No, i did not upgrade it to 96v because it would cost a lot. My current controller works up to 84v (it has an overvoltage protection), battery should be changed, motor hub same (i guess), plus need to change many things in order to achieve this. So, i will stay with 72v at the moment. Would be nice to have 96v though haha!
What i did is below, i installed the Z6 Switches, it looks and feels nicer. I had to modify some connections, so all previous functions could work but it was worth it!
I tested also the DKD speedometer, it works (after modifying the cables as well) but not as i would like to. Seems its functions are limited. Plus i need to modify the housing of the old screen to install it and i do not have the time to do it at the moment.
However, i have in my hands a new controller "Fardriver ND72360" but in order to install it, i also needed THIS - which i ordered only today. So i will install the new controller when the harness arrives and will update you. I am sure that it will make a huge difference as its size is bigger(heavier as well) and seems of better quality than the one i currently have.
Next step would be to try to open my motor hub and try to see if i can get any specifications from it. One thing i want to do for sure, is change also its wiring towards the controller and put better/higher quality wires to make sure that i will not have losses due to bad connections/conductors.
Lithium batteries are generally better in my opinion (and more expensive) as they last longer and you can get more charging cycles out of them!
Yeah, if i would change the voltage, as E-HP suggested, for sure i could get better max speeds. Your controller does not cut it off? Works normally? Mine has a limit at 84v (or at least it says so...)
I received it as well but did not test it. I think i will work on this during the weekend! Meantime, i already bought with it some extra heatsinks, fans, thermal pads and thermal paste.
Btw, i checked the plug that comes from the motor hub to the controller and a "white" cable is missing, this seems to be the reading of the motor hubs' temp. So, i believe, the controller is the one that does not allow me to go a bit faster at the moment. Maybe temperature could be a thing or another idea i have is to change its transistors. At the moment the 12 transistors are this type: CRST045N10N, i will try to find their equivalent in something better/bigger. Or i could buy the same ones and put another 6-9-12 in parallel. I think it could give me something.
However, I do not think i will be able to get any readings out of the current controller. I have the USB to RS485, made the connections properly but all software i tried to use, could not communicate with it.
Then swap out the motor. You can easily go 70km/h with the same battery and controller using a faster wind motor. The only difference between System A and System B in the example below, is a faster wind motor, 11.35Kv vs 15.5Kv. (I don't know what motor, size tires you have or total weight, so just an illustrative example)
If you look at the specs of the motor below, it has a very wide range of voltage, power, torque, and speed, so you'd want to order based on the needs/requirements. Speed and torque tradeoff, so you should really know what you want the motor to do, since climbing a steep hill, vs going really fast are two different motors.
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I think it does. Before I built the 22S2P battery out of Gotian 32135 LFP cells, I bought 2 of these ($30 ea when I bought them) A123 LFP 36V 20Ah High Current Battery Module wired in series, strapped crosswise on the scooter floor and ran it that way for about 400 miles.
These BAE hybrid bus batteries have screw terminals for each series group so I was able to try 19S through 24S (64.6V through 81.6V, fully charged they sit at 3.4V/ cell) just by moving the + terminal connection. At 24S (81.6V), the instrument panel powers up fine but the motor would not spin. I suppose that's the controller cutoff doing its thing? So I settled on 22S to give it some safety margin.
You may want to consider building your own LFP battery (safer chemistry) much cheaper than buying one pre-made.
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Well this is what i was thinking about, i need to take a look at my motor to see what can be done - i have checked everything else so far - but it needs special care when removing it/opening it because there is a serious amount of voltage there and could harm me. Its like "DONT TRY THIS AT HOME".
The motor you sent me, looks like mine on the outside! Basically, its exactly the same! Can you pls send me the link, to see if there are any "spare parts"? - nevermind i found the exact page you got it from. Maybe i could order something to swap into mine and make it better. Ordering a new motor from China, as i have seen so far, it will be extremely expensive (because of transport & customs). Price of the wheel is normal itself.
Plus, as i said, i want to fix the whole wiring to make sure i have no loss of power from them.
fyi - My tire size is 90/90-12, i am around 100kgs plus the whole scooter including the battery etc. should be like 100kgs max (manufacturer says ~80kgs without the battery). I am interested in reaching a higher max speed and i am willing to sacrifice some torque. I do not have hills where i live or where i use the scooter to go to. So, i don't mind.
But for sure, after achieving a higher speeds, i need to reinforce the frame and install better brakes. One more thing i need to change - for safety reasons - are the brake handles. They are wrong in so many ways! I need adjustable ones, since it makes it so hard to hit the brakes and press the horn at the same time.
Yeah, for sure your controller cuts you off.
When i am charging my battery in full, my screen shows that i am at 84v (my current controller has an overvoltage protection at 84v), while i start moving the voltage drops slowly but it works like a charm! When i am fully charged i can get a max speed or around 58-59km/h plus i think that maybe my screen is "cheating" a bit. I will try to use a GPS speedo to see where i am.
When i am at 70+ volts my top speed is max at 55. So yeah, 96v would make a difference but i might toast everything in the scooter and i think it would cut me off as well. Maybe a 84v battery could work but i don't think it worths the money/effort but for sure i will check the site you sent me and the batteries you put. I will need a battery in the future. Plus i think, if i make a battery with 84 or 96v i will need a different charger. Now the one i have is for 72v/10Amps
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I suggest you not do any upgrades and just enjoy your scooter, stick around here and learn more and make a plan. Not sure where you are getting your info, but by how silly some of the things you are saying and doing, it’s obvious you need to take a breather and learn some very fundamental things and unlearn some of the garbage you’ve learned or heard elsewhere.
If you achieve a higher speed before you do that, you might not have an option do it afterwards.
I'll repeat myself: if you want to go faster, start with a vehicle that was designed to safely reach those speeds. It doesn't make sense, practically or financially, to make this poor scooter go faster than designed.
Like what? I am interested in this.
For real now i am reading, studying, asking around, searching on the web, etc etc. I am not a mechanic/electrician, just into this kind of stuff.
Its correct as well. I will do that first.
Last ~50 build threads in the e-motorcycle section on this very forum, start to finish, is a good start.
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