Hi power inverter for Nissan leaf motor. Dyno's 302.3hp p15

[Arlo1]

Awesome vid!

The soft start might actually be a very good thing for prolonging the lifespan of your welded shafts, i've exploded my share of shafts and CV joints and it's always the shock loading that does them in. After I started pre-loading the drivetrain on the ebrake before launching on slicks it vastly reduced the breakages.

Have you thought about selling a package for enthusiasts to achieve the same results? I'd be keen and would love to contribute towards all your investment (time and dollars I'm sure!)

IN time if people want for sure. I have 3 beta testers who I will be building these for over the winter. Then when I get them all happy I will see if there is any interest.

 

[Arlo1]

Did some of the easy stuff today lol.

Soon it will have no holes left

 

[Lebowski]

for some reason it reminds me of the De Lorean from back to the future...

 

[Arlo1]

Drove it home for the first time tonight.

Then took a punk Honda nut out. He was blown away but we didn't line up beside any cars to really show off the performance. I still need to install gauges.
Driving blind with no idea of the SOC or speed or anything.


But it sure feels good!

 

[jonescg]

Clock works. Looks legit

 

[whereswally606]

Looks great Arlo, except having to see through the crack in the windshield. Very stealth and understated.

 

[Arlo1]

Looks great Arlo, except having to see through the crack in the windshield. Very stealth and understated.

LOL in time I will put a new windshield in it. I still have some wiring to clean up under the hood and some adjustments for the controller.

 

[zombiess]

Great job cleaning up the body damage. Car looks so much better now and has a superior motor to the one it came with

 

[Arlo1]

Got some Chachy wheels today. First time out in public and a guy walked up to me and mentioned some wheels with decent tires for $200 I got them for $160...

They hook a little better then the all seasons I took off and having 17" rims will give me more tire options in the future. I will still really consider the proxies 888r tires but they are $1200 so I would like to find something with that kind of traction for 1/4 the price.

 

[Samd]

Awesome work mate, love seeing your work via facebook too

 

[zombiess]

Look into Nitto 555R, NT 05, BFG Drag radials, Mickey Thomson Street Radials and Hoosier drag radials just to name a few. I've personally run all of these at some point, on the street and on the track.

More sidewall will help it hook better due to absorbing shock so you might want to run the stock rims or get a smaller diameter set if it will see the track, but I do not reccomend running a bias play tire such a Mickey Thompson ET street or Hoosier on the street. They just don't seem grip well on unprepared asphalt.

I've personally found MT Street radials and Nitto NT555R drag radials to work the best on the street and have similar performance, but the NT555R lasts about 2x longer than the MT street radial.

I just realized I've spent a lot of money on tires in my life LOL

 

[Arlo1]

Look into Nitto 555R, NT 05, BFG Drag radials, Mickey Thomson Street Radials and Hoosier drag radials just to name a few. I've personally run all of these at some point, on the street and on the track.

More sidewall will help it hook better due to absorbing shock so you might want to run the stock rims or get a smaller diameter set if it will see the track, but I do not reccomend running a bias play tire such a Mickey Thompson ET street or Hoosier on the street. They just don't seem grip well on unprepared asphalt.

I've personally found MT Street radials and Nitto NT555R drag radials to work the best on the street and have similar performance, but the NT555R lasts about 2x longer than the MT street radial.

I just realized I've spent a lot of money on tires in my life LOL

In time I will get something and maybe it will be the Proxies. But for 13" wheels the only thing available is the proxies.

I am really happy how hard this thing pulls at the moment! With the peak phase amps set to 450 and the battery amps set to 300 it pulls much harder then my SRT4 did!
I find with no cooling system I can drive around like a normal car but it will get to the thermal cut backs after a while and it doesn't spin the tires when that happens but its still fast in fact you can hear the tires breaking loos a little which is perfect.
Next to add charging then cooling then some gauges.... etc.

 

[Arlo1]

Well I got it running good enough to start trying to see what kind of 0-60 times I could get.

I did some readying to find more phone based gps apps are to slow for sub 7 0-60 measurements. But I will use this to collect data for now.

Non the less I did some playing today and at 50mph it pulls hard. Harder then my Srt-4 did and maybe better then my road runner. It feels at least as good or better then the Tesla p85+ I drove at our wedding a couple years ago.

Very happy. So far this is with a battery only able to do 100kw and a hot motor and hot controller it would not even spin the tires at full throttle still at 1/2 power! Maybe even 1/3 when considering the battery.

 

[Lebowski]

cool stuff you're up to like 200 hp now !

I don't know if you've noticed, but what is interesting is that from 20 to 40 takes almost exactly 2.00 seconds, from 40 to 60 also takes 2.00 seconds. That is almost perfect constant accelleration !

 

[Arlo1]

cool stuff you're up to like 200 hp now !

I don't know if you've noticed, but what is interesting is that from 20 to 40 takes almost exactly 2.00 seconds, from 40 to 60 also takes 2.00 seconds. That is almost perfect constant accelleration !

Yeah I think I am limited by battery to just over 100kw for now.
I know it can accelerate better with a cold motor and controller and I will be hooking up gauges to figure out what is getting warm. But I think its maybe the motor windings. I might take the motor apart in time and pot the windings with a special sauce that helps transfer the heat out of the windings into the aluminum case then the liquid cooling will work better.

But we have a starting point you will only see better numbers for here. I think once I have REALY good tires I will cut the 0-60 time in 1/2

 

[Arlo1]

Made some progress. This is with the phase current set to 525 amps and the battery set to 275 but I was told the battery can't do more then 100kw.

Non the less its happening! I had to feather the throttle to try to keep traction until 50mph then full throttle.

It konks out at 60mph.... so with a good run once lebowski changes the code it should be capable of low 5s and with more battery avalible mid 4s then with better tires into the 3s!!!

 

[zombiess]

It konks out at 60mph.... so with a good run once lebowski changes the code it should be capable of low 5s and with more battery avalible mid 4s then with better tires into the 3s!!!

Anything < 4.5s 0-60MPH is quite difficult in FWD on the street with an unprepared surface. Once you can get it to a race track with some VHT (or a properly prepped street :wink: :wink: ), that's when things get interesting.

On regular streets (Las Vegas streets are quite slippery) my RWD drag radial car could do just under 5s 0-60MPH, but on the race track with good prep (same tires) I managed 1.8xs 0-60MPH. A low 13sec AWD vehicle would leave me hard trying to play catch up in a 10.0s car.

I'm rooting for you and your half shafts! More POWER!!!!

 

[liveforphysics]

On regular streets (Las Vegas streets are quite slippery) my RWD drag radial car could do just under 5s 0-60MPH, but on the race track with good prep (same tires) I managed 1.8xs 0-60MPH. A low 13sec AWD vehicle would leave me hard trying to play catch up in a 10.0s car.

Sounds like my Civic before going to a cheater slick for the street. They hardly need a scrub to get hot and hook, Arlin has found some M&H DOT cheater slicks that can fit his 13s.

I'm rooting for you and your half shafts! More POWER!!!!

If he adds some front suspension limiting straps and drops those M&H cheaters to ~7-8psi and heats them up, he will definitely be feeding the car axles or LEAF reduction gearsets more often than he botches runs from lost traction.
The whole drivetrain may just survive though, because most of the time when you break axles its from the torque spike of shifting, the wheels breaking loose and then hooking back up again and shock loading the drivetrain.

 

[Arlo1]

Yup heading there!

Rolled the new 1/4s today to allow the chachy wheels fit in better. The wife and I took it to get groceries 2 days ago and once a bit of a load was in the back it rubbed on a lot of bumps.

http://www.mandhtires.com/P205-60-13#.V-C4u_0VC00

 

[Arlo1]

I've been driving all over with just 10kwh usable energy and this car is so fun. It's like a sport bike in traffic. A friend describes it as a "hammer". I have given many whip lash!!! Lebowski made some new code that lets me run peak phase amps at 650 but I keep the Regen knob cranked up for daily driving which means I almost never use mechanical brakes and limits the power to 80% which still roasts tires at low speeds. I will try to put a video together soon.

 

[liveforphysics]

I've been driving all over with just 10kwh usable energy and this car is so fun. It's like a sport bike in traffic. A friend describes it as a "hammer". I have given many whip lash!!! Lebowski made some new code that lets me run peak phase amps at 650 but I keep the Regen knob cranked up for daily driving which means I almost never use mechanical brakes and limits the power to 80% which still roasts tires at low speeds. I will try to put a video together soon.

You must add another 10kWh my friend before those slicks show up or you will miss being able to burn out.

 

[Arlo1]

High Phase amps = wheel spin
High Battery amps = wheel spin to higher speeds with more smoke

I can crank the phase amps and get wheel spin the same with the 100kw battery as I could with the 300kw battery it just won't be able to do it at as high of a speed with the 100kw battery.

Right now I'm running 600amp (@80degC) rated igbts while I sort it out.. it's still stupid fast and I feel these will max out the 950 amp current sensors. When you consider 600rms is 848 amps peak and Lebowski's code requires a head room for faults as well....
I might just ship you and Jackson the 800 amp igbts with a setup for the palitov

 

[Arlo1]

But yes Monday I start potting the rest of the battery and soon after cutting the rear floor pan out to reshape it for another 20kwh

 

[Arlo1]

I swapped out all lights to LED other then the High beams and that's only because they are not in yet. The low beams I ordered SAY 45watt but they use 15 watts each. Which is fine because they are just a touch brighter and reflect off of signs a lot better.
But what I really wanted was to reduce the load on the charging system. The Led Low beams alone reduced the load by 5.5 amps.

My Charging system is 2 22amp 12v output mean wells. One on the Top 230v of the pack and one on the bottom 230v of the pack. They are isolated so its ok.

So I have 44 amps total. And now with the Halogen high beams led low beams led marker signal brake lights and all other loads even with the stereo cranked it uses 37 amps. Even both front and rear windshield wipers were on. Hopping for a couple more amp reduction with the LED high beams.

Things to figure out are Fast charger.

And HEAT. This is a tricky one. As the heater core is not usable in the car I cut off the spigots under the hood to make room for batteries.

And I don't want to run HV inside the cab for a ceramic heater.....

The list to finish is large as well its not water proof yet.

 

[Arlo1]

This is the Low beam kit that came it was about $50 cdn.

I wished they would give you a cheeper package and use the left over money to make a cheaper or better bulb.
I could give 2 shits how nice/fancy the box is the come in.... The lid even had magnets in it to snap shut .....