The are much better.izeman said:is this ok? can't really judge from the pictures.
sure. lower current is better. something you don't really take care off with an ICE.Arlo1 said:Read the part where i say they use 5.5amps less!!!!! thats better and as a bonus they are a bit brighter.
Arlo1 said:I swapped out all lights to LED other then the High beams and that's only because they are not in yet. The low beams I ordered SAY 45watt but they use 15 watts each. Which is fine because they are just a touch brighter and reflect off of signs a lot better.
But what I really wanted was to reduce the load on the charging system. The Led Low beams alone reduced the load by 5.5 amps.
My Charging system is 2 22amp 12v output mean wells. One on the Top 230v of the pack and one on the bottom 230v of the pack. They are isolated so its ok.
So I have 44 amps total. And now with the Halogen high beams led low beams led marker signal brake lights and all other loads even with the stereo cranked it uses 37 amps. Even both front and rear windshield wipers were on. Hopping for a couple more amp reduction with the LED high beams.
Things to figure out are Fast charger.
And HEAT. This is a tricky one. As the heater core is not usable in the car I cut off the spigots under the hood to make room for batteries.
And I don't want to run HV inside the cab for a ceramic heater.....
The list to finish is large as well its not water proof yet.
HighHopes said:have you looked into registering your EV as "Home Built" yet? i went to local DMV last year and asked about it. they said its super rare, like 1 person every 10 years asks, but its basically straight forward. fill out the paperwork that says who built it and is it from part pieces or a kit and provide all the receipts that show you bought it all and its not stolen. then goto canadian tire where they certify for safety (you should get their list of things they check, but its basically do you have lights, blinkeres work, anything protruding from body etc). all in all it didn't seem bad. i never investigated insurance
sholland said:Any estimates of how much power you are getting out of the Leaf motor? How is it holding up?
Arlo1 said:sholland said:Any estimates of how much power you are getting out of the Leaf motor? How is it holding up?
Motor is fine. I was putting ~102kw into it but limited to batteries. I am currently adding another 205kw (20kwh) worth of batteries.
Then I will crank it up until something gives.
The motor has no problem with high power. In fact without adding any more toque you can make 250-300hp from the leaf motor which would still be 100% reliable because there would not be any additional heat and no additional stress on the gear reduction and cv shafts.
Nissan run full torque only until 2300 rpm then they reduced the torque (by reducing the phase current) to keep the system from drawing to much current from the OEM battery.
Torque is what puts stress on the drive line components.
Phase amps is what puts heat into the motor and controller.
So if you just keep the same torque and phase amps (which is how you control torque) past 2300 rpm you will make more HP then the oem system.
My next build will be AWD.izeman said:You need 4WD![]()
It's not an easy task. Most of the time both wheels will spin and at the start for the first 10ish feet both were spinning. But unfortunately nobody makes a LSD or a quafe for a leafzombiess said:Anyway to put an LSD in it?
I think you start by looking at what models come with a lsd.....Punx0r said:Any chance Nissan raided the parts bin for the Leaf's diff? I've got a feeling the answer is "no" considering how different the whole transmission is to their multi-speed ICE cars, but you never know...
Arlo1 said:I think you start by looking at what models come with a lsd.....Punx0r said:Any chance Nissan raided the parts bin for the Leaf's diff? I've got a feeling the answer is "no" considering how different the whole transmission is to their multi-speed ICE cars, but you never know...