High power RC motor and drive unit production

I just got some drive parts back from a local polishing shop. They are soooooo sweet! :mrgreen:

I will be posting some comparison pics of drive parts that are stock machined finish, polished, and black anodized.

Matt
 
Hi Matt,

Several people have posted comments about wading through this 56 page thread to figure out specifications, pricing, installation options etc.

I think it would be good if you would either:
1. Edit the first post of this thread, adding all of your important posts and pictures providing specifications, pricing, installation options etc.
2. Update your web page with that information and add a link on the first post of this thread.

Edit Addition:
1clue said:
Or, add a link to your web site in your signature. :)

Or update the web site with all the relevant information and add a link to your web site in your signature.
 
Dammit, if I/we had to do it, why should the noobs have it soo easy? :wink: That shows their level of commitment when they actually read that monster. Heck, I had to go through it the other day to dig up Matt's recumbent build posted by someone around page 13. Which leads to this question:

Matt, can you give a little info on spring washers for me? Like what pressure springs, type, stacked or inverted? Am I right in seeing the pulley squeezed between two metal plates pressured by washers, so the plates are fixed to the shaft, and the pulley is free of the shaft? Thanks, any info would be above and beyond.
 
Yes, the pulley is free of the shaft. It actually spins on a bearing. The side plates (pressure plates) are fixed to the shaft by pins through slotted holes. That way the outer plate can move in and out slightly.

I use spring washers for the springing action. I believe they are called "Belleville" washers.

Matt
 
So, Oofnik came by today. We had a blast! He stood in awe of my crappy shop while I made a hack of his new shiney drive. :wink:

It was really good to have you come by. Any time you want to get away from school for an afternoon, let me know!

Matt
 
So, where's your workshop located? I may want to come by an afternoon after school. :lol:
 
recumpence said:
So, Oofnik came by today. We had a blast! He stood in awe of my crappy shop while I made a hack of his new shiney drive. :wink:

It was really good to have you come by. Any time you want to get away from school for an afternoon, let me know!

Matt

Thanks, Matt :mrgreen:
It's so shiny! I can't stop playing with it!

I was sort of planning to go with a 13 tooth freewheel, so it was kind of a bummer to find out that freewheels smaller than 16 teeth are actually for smaller diameter hubs. So I've got two options now: Either up my rear sprocket size to 56T (I'm not sure I have clearance for that), or put the freewheel adapter on a lathe, turn it down and thread it to fit the smaller 13T freewheel... What do you think guys?
 

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indeed, its good quality too.
Miles has a couple and i have 2 that are now excess to requirements :mrgreen:
If you need to go smaller then i wouldn't imagine it's that difficult to get the freewheel adapter machined down and die'd to the same thread as a flip flop hun (whatever size that is).

Cheers,

D
 
Thanks for the suggestion Miles. I'll consider going that route.
I looked for a Metric BMX size die (M30x1.0mm), and the cheapest one I could find was some $170. :shock: So I'm not going to do that. First of all, M30x1.5 is much more common, and large dies like this are generally expensive anyway. So unless I can find someone who is willing to lend me this size die for a one-off job, it looks like I'll just have to fit a bigger sprocket.
 
oofnik said:
I looked for a Metric BMX size die (M30x1.0mm), and the cheapest one I could find was some $170. :shock:

$49 here: http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/productlist.html?subdepartments=Metric+Dies:603,905,606 is a bit more reasonable... :wink:
 
Hi,

oofnik said:
I was sort of planning to go with a 13 tooth freewheel, so it was kind of a bummer to find out that freewheels smaller than 16 teeth are actually for smaller diameter hubs. So I've got two options now: Either up my rear sprocket size to 56T (I'm not sure I have clearance for that), or put the freewheel adapter on a lathe, turn it down and thread it to fit the smaller 13T freewheel... What do you think guys?

I think the best solution is the configuration D used (FW inside the large pulley). That would allow 13t cogs on a FW adaptor. It would also allow you to use (like D) to use 219 sprockets, something like 11t/80t. The fact that, including D you are the second person who would benefit from that configuration (FW inside large pulley) leads me to believe it would be desirable for a significant percent of Matt's customers.

The problem is that it requires 3 or 4 hours of his time to implement. Maybe someone can suggest a better way to fit a White FW inside a large pulley? Wouldn't this be a simple job ($50 - $100) for someone with a large drill bit and drill press or a lathe and boring bar?:
http://chestofbooks.com/home-improv...peration/Boring-Bar-Construction-And-Use.html
Boring Bar Construction And Use

The lathe is often used for boring, or internal turning and is as well adapted for that class of work as it is for the plainer and easier external work. The simpler operations of boring, such as holes that are too large to be drilled economically, can be performed with a simple design boring tool that can be attached directly to the tool post. A hole is first drilled in the piece of sufficient size to accommodate the boring tool, the work then going on just as in external turning as far as control of the tool is concerned. Special boring tools and supporting fixtures are necessary when the work demands and while the simple forged tool does good work in the smaller sizes, it is believed to be more economical to use tool holders with removable high speed steel tools on the heavier work.
 
The one issue with the FW mounted inside the pulley is that when pedalling, the jackshaft will be spinning. That gives increased drag versus just spinning a freewheel.

If there is enough interest in a FW pulley, I can have Dave manufacture a number of them to fit a less expensive 16 tooth freewheel, rather than the expensive 22 tooth ENO. However, most people have not asked about it. I do have one other person who is interested. But, that is the only other one.

Matt
 
who the hell are these awkward people ???? freewheels in pulleys indeed!!!! :mrgreen:
one other thing to remember if you follow that method is the clickety effect, in a nutshell if you are pedling only you will have the eno in the pulley freewheeling thus noise, if your using motor only then the crank eno will freewheel causing noise again, in fact the only time my bike will be totally silent as far as i know is when im using the motor and the pedals in harmony, but being that is my main riding style anyway i'm not too worried, i only will let rip when ppl arent around :twisted: if im passing ramblers or dog walkers i'll simply pedal in harmony and make little to no noise :mrgreen:

Cheers,

D
 
Be quiet when its at a standstill to 'D' ...well cept for the sound of druel/dribble splashing on the ground from onlookers :p

I thinkz we would have heardz all about it if he had the machine pr0n Mr R hehehe

KiM

Apprentice Gangsta 8)
 
Sure.

The zipped file is in STEP format.

[Click on the image in the first PDF file to activate 3D]
 

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