High power RC motor and drive unit production

hehehehehe @ Kim.

Hi guys,

Matt, it's here!!!!! :mrgreen:
well i say here, i mean in my localish sorting depot - import duty? what a MoFo :twisted:
i'll have to pay and extra......................... £58.37 :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
what the hell for? can't we wirte that off along with the billions of pounds our Bankers have squandered ???? :lol: :lol:
Ah well at leastits here, i may even swing by and pick it up tomorrow morning :mrgreen:
will post up some pics in my thread before i send it down to steve - happy days, young bob is working on the cranks as we speak and steve is looking at the packs so we are good to build, woohooooo :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
All i need now are those beautiful brackets 8) whats the ETA on them guys? Miles do you mind if i steal the drawing and have steve make them???


Cheers,

D
 
Here is the deal on the clamps;

Dave and I have been talking about this. Those clamps are beautiful, but require alot of secondary operations to make (machine block, remove and flip, machine, remove and flip, machine, remove and flip, etc, etc, etc). The bottom portion of the clamp is a 5 operation part alone! So, for one two piece clamp, we are looking at $55 without material (and, trust me, Dave gives me a break on machining). So, that would be over $100 for the two clamps. However, I have a couple ideas to reduce it to 3 operations, maybe only two! I want to get the clamps down to $30 each WITH material. I have a pair made for my latest build with some unique aspecs to them at my shop right now. I am going to the shop this morning to do more work on that project bike. I will pull one clamp from my bike for Dave to quote.

I will get back to you guys soon.

Matt
 
Yes, that is one operation (we discussed that too).

One huge reduction will be to split the clamp along the vertical place rather than the horizontal plane. That would also solve a couple other problems (clearance issues, etc).

Matt
 
This was the first version I did for Gary:
.

file.php
 
Hi Matt,

nice to hear your doing the clamps too, garantees quality for those without machine access.
What will we do as far as offsetting goes though? i will probably ask steve to make mine as he can make them custom for the stinky but for the masses is it possible to have some horizontal slots for adjustment? more cuts/cost i know but they need to fit a variety of setups?

Cheers,

D
 
I assume you are speaking of output sprocket offset? If that is the case, sprocket offset can be achieved through bearing tube repositioning in the drive base as well as merely shimming the FW adaptor out a bit.

Actually, looking at my bike build, centering the drive mount on the frame is nearly perfect.

One option, though, would be to machine the notch for the drive base wider and use shims to move it left or right in that notch.

Matt

(Miles, I cannot view your image)
 
recumpence said:
I assume you are speaking of output sprocket offset? If that is the case, sprocket offset can be achieved through bearing tube repositioning in the drive base as well as merely shimming the FW adaptor out a bit.

Actually, looking at my bike build, centering the drive mount on the frame is nearly perfect.

One option, though, would be to machine the notch for the drive base wider and use shims to move it left or right in that notch.

Matt

(Miles, I cannot view your image)

i hope i can get my drive soon so that i can measure the mounting position...
 
Wow, perfect timing!

I just finished your drive this morning (other than the belt. I am waiting on my next batch to arrive).

Are you driving the left or right side? I need to know so I can setup your FW adaptor to match. :D

Matt
 
recumpence said:
I assume you are speaking of output sprocket offset? If that is the case, sprocket offset can be achieved through bearing tube repositioning in the drive base as well as merely shimming the FW adaptor out a bit. Actually, looking at my bike build, centering the drive mount on the frame is nearly perfect.


Matt

(Miles, I cannot view your image)


Hi Matt,

indeed thats exactly what i was talking about thanks, mine also looks like it will be very close, im not too worried as we have the technology to adjust ;) but was just thinking about adjustability for others if your selling the clamps.
woohooo, everything is looking good, i'll pick up the drive tomorrow, cant wait :), and then i'll get it down to jozzers at the weekend if i can squeeze it in.
Pics of build to come!!!


Cheers,

D
 
Hi,

This was posted in the "Freewheel crank resources" ($64.95).

It seems so useful I decided to cross post it:
Miles said:
DeathBlade
Thanks for pointing out the new ENO part - looks to be just what we need :D

http://sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=62

whitefw.jpg


Super heavy duty front freewheel made exclusively for Sick Bike Parts by White Industries.

Leaders in the industry for hiqh quality bicycle components. Not only are these freewheels durable but are also serviceable.

Made in the U.S.A. Six month replacement warranty

Its blue so D will want 2 or 3 :)

Just got this from Sick Bikes Tech Support:
Mitch,
As far as I know the internals are the same as the ENO FW, at least that is what we were told, I actually have one each so I could take them apart to verify but I am pretty sure they are the same.

The FW removal tool does work with both the standard FW and the White FW.

This is the link for the tool ($5.95):
http://sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=64
LF-09E1.jpg
 
score, nice find. 8)

i think the other side of the blue may be red though ;)
i did look at that post but the link didn't work for me.

Cheers,

D
 
recumpence said:
Wow, perfect timing!

I just finished your drive this morning (other than the belt. I am waiting on my next batch to arrive).

Are you driving the left or right side? I need to know so I can setup your FW adaptor to match. :D

Matt

perfect!
i'm driving left sided...
 
Hi Matt,

recumpence said:
Cool, they have 44 tooth sprockets for that FW too.

They have:
  • 24 Tooth Freewheel Chainring
    30 Tooth Freewheel Chainring
    36 Tooth Freewheel Chainring
    44 Tooth Freewheel Chainring
    48 Tooth Freewheel Chainring
 
MitchJi said:
Hi Matt,

recumpence said:
Cool, they have 44 tooth sprockets for that FW too.

They have:
  • 24 Tooth Freewheel Chainring
    30 Tooth Freewheel Chainring
    36 Tooth Freewheel Chainring
    44 Tooth Freewheel Chainring
    48 Tooth Freewheel Chainring

Is this for left side drive? series drive? or some other type of drive :D
 
sockman said:
recumpence said:
Wow, perfect timing!

I just finished your drive this morning (other than the belt. I am waiting on my next batch to arrive).

Are you driving the left or right side? I need to know so I can setup your FW adaptor to match. :D

Matt

perfect!
i'm driving left sided...

That's what I figured. So, I guessed and set it up that way. :D

As soon as the belt arrives, I will ship it.

Matt
 
nomad85 said:
Is this for left side drive? series drive? or some other type of drive :D

It is for driving a front crankset. You can use trials-type crank arms, which will screw right into this freewheel, which then gets mounted on the BB. The 24-48t sprockets bolt right up to this freewheel. If you look at the site, check out the shift kit that they sell for those 2-cycle gas bikes. Basically, what we are doing is the same thing, but with a motor and Matt's drive. This lets the motor drive through the rear gears, so you get a wider torque range and/or higher top speed.

-- Gary
 
Hi Matt,

Subject: LiPoly powered 18HP Twin Motor Brushless MONSTER build!

liveforphysics said:
I had only ever seen silent chain in Honda's cam drive setups, but it turns out you can buy silent chain and sprockets for whatever!

Here is silent chain in very small pitch:
http://www.ramseychain.com/prod_sc_pt_316.asp

This would be wicked for making beefy double reduction first stages. They sell pulleys in all sizes too!

And the regular full strength stuff would be ideal for final drive connections:
http://www.ramseychain.com/prod_sc_pt_rpv.asp

I wish I would have thought about this before I setup my sprockets :( :( :( I would have set it all up with silent drive chain. From experience, this stuff is about the same noise as a belt, but handles very high speeds and power, and it's uber compact and strong.

What do you think about using silent chain instead of belts? If they are really "about the same noise as a belt" it seems like a good idea. If nothing else this might be a great option for systems with too much power for belts.
 
MitchJi said:
What do you think about using silent chain instead of belts? If they are really "about the same noise as a belt" it seems like a good idea. If nothing else this might be a great option for systems with too much power for belts.

The smallest pitch Ramsey do is 3/8". The smallest sprocket size is 19t. Chain width is 3/4"...

I don't know how the cost compares with synchro., but the spec. is comparable to PolyChain 8M and I should imagine the belt is quieter....
 
Hi Miles,

Miles said:
The smallest pitch Ramsey do is 3/8". The smallest sprocket size is 19t. Chain width is 3/4"...

I don't know how the cost compares with synchro., but the spec. is comparable to PolyChain 8M and I should imagine the belt is quieter....

They do make 3/16 pitch in their SC Series (might not be as quiet as the RPV series). I can't find the SC Sprockets. It comes in width's of 5/32, 7/32, 9/32, 11/32....

So the width could be less than belts. Is the 3/16 pitch is a little more compact than the belts?

http://www.ramseychain.com/prod_sc_pt_compare.asp
SC
Ramsey SC chains, utilizing ANSI Standard tooth profiles and dimensions, are the most commonly used silent chains for industrial applications. The patented Ramsey roller bearing joint is used in 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1" & 1-1/2" pitch. A single round pin joint is used in 3/16" pitch chain.

http://www.ramseychain.com/prod_sc_pt_sc.asp
SC chain can accommodate speeds approaching 6500 fpm and loads in excess of 1000 hp. Utilizing the patented Ramsey roller bearing joint, SC chain is one of Ramsey’s most popular industrial chains.

SC series chains are available in center guide and side guide assemblies. Center guide assemblies are fully compliant with the ASME Standard for silent chain. Both side guide and center guide operate on industry standard sprockets

We recommend SC chain primarily as a replacement chain for existing power transmission applications where it has been successfully employed in the past. SC chain weighs less than an equal width of RPV or RP chain, and it typically costs less.

http://www.ramseychain.com/prod_sc_pt_316.asp

3/16” Pitch SC Silent Chain

Ramsey 3/16" pitch chain is manufactured to ASME standard dimensions and will operate on standard sprockets. Chains are made entirely of 304 stainless steel and are available in side guide or center guide assemblies, depending on chain width. Consult the table below for information on the most common sizes.

note: The power capacity of stainless steel chains is less than comparable width carbon steel chains.


If its noisier than belts (unless its very close) thats a show stopper except for motors with too much power for belts.

Thanks!

Mitch
 
Sorry if this post is slightly off topic. I know some of you have done research into BLDC motors.

I'm looking for a light weight motor which can maintain a continuous 22kW for hours in a dirty/wet environment with a lot of air flow. It could be BLDC, induction, whatever. The load RPM will be 0-3600, with partial speeds needing partial power, loading like on a propeller or impeller. The motor would either need to be sealed or be able to tolerate water spray, dirt, ice, etc.

I would also like to know what controller to use on this?

Weight matters, cost matters and efficiency matters.

I'm asking here because I know some of you have been searching for powerful BLDC motors, including for commercial applications. If it's way outside your area of expertise, that's OK but it would be good to know where to start.

Thanks.
 
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