Hill Climbing Assistance

There's potentially hundreds of rear hub kits that fit this definition. Look for a machined sidewall.

Check with the supplier to see if it is a dual reduction geared hub motor. It doesn't look like one. Weight is not specified. Model is also not specified, so you need to find that out. before questions #2 and #3 can be answered.

My rule? no specs, no buy. Otherwise you're playing roulette with bad odds.

Recommend you spoke a wheel with a light motor that's optimized. That's how you'd get what you were looking for originally. Many hubs have been mentioned which are more suitable than this one which probably has a single gear reduction and is heavier than you wanted.
Great questions. I will ask.
 
"Designed specifically for our ADVENT Super Short and Sword Black, this 9-speed, 11-38T cassette provides wide range and low gears. It’s built with the same precision and durability as our wider range cassettes. And yes, it works with a standard HG freehub body and a normal 9-speed chain."


You can get a 9 speed cassette that's kinda like that, then just remove and dial out a gear.
You won't miss that top gear since a 250w motor will basically double your power.. you just need to get ratios right enough. :)

I have a 8 speed cassette with a massive spread and i find it is perfect for this hybrid ebike/pedalbike scenario.. and my bike is geared to do up to 35mph.

Would i like 11 gears in pedalbike mode? yes... but i have the motor on when climbing a significant hill always.. :)
 
Is there a deadline?
No. I was just trying to encourage you to clarify the benefits and drawbacks for friction drive as (at least from my POV) you seem to be going in circles with it. Take as much time as you need! :)
 
You can get a 9 speed cassette that's kinda like that, then just remove and dial out a gear.
You won't miss that top gear since a 250w motor will basically double your power.. you just need to get ratios right enough. :)

I have a 8 speed cassette with a massive spread and i find it is perfect for this hybrid ebike/pedalbike scenario.. and my bike is geared to do up to 35mph.

Would i like 11 gears in pedalbike mode? yes... but i have the motor on when climbing a significant hill always.. :)

According to the link below Bafang hub RM G020.500.D/DC (which is the same hub in that motor kit the OP listed) is compatible with 9 speed and has an RPM of 195 at 36v:


195 rpm at 36v is actually slower than the 201 rpm at 36v of the Q100H/AKM 100H motor.
 
You can get a 9 speed cassette that's kinda like that, then just remove and dial out a gear.
You won't miss that top gear since a 250w motor will basically double your power.. you just need to get ratios right enough. :)

I have a 8 speed cassette with a massive spread and i find it is perfect for this hybrid ebike/pedalbike scenario.. and my bike is geared to do up to 35mph.

Would i like 11 gears in pedalbike mode? yes... but i have the motor on when climbing a significant hill always.. :)
Curious why I'd replace my current 9 speed cassette?
No. I was just trying to encourage you to clarify the benefits and drawbacks for friction drive as (at least from my POV) you seem to be going in circles with it. Take as much time as you need! :)
It is a fair warning. I've been accused of ‘analysis to paralysis’ so I have to be mindful of that.

When it comes to considering between mid-drives I'm trying to determine the pros and cons of a complete kit like this:

Complete kit- Tongsheng Torque Sensing & 48v Shark

Or a combination of DM02 and 48V 12.8AH Rack Battery - LG MH1 Cells - Refurbished
 
According to the link below the Bafang hub (in that motor kit the OP listed) is compatible with 9 speed and has an RPM of 195 at 36v:


195 rpm at 36v is actually slower than the 201 rpm at 36v of the Q100H/AKM 100H motor.

Yeah but we don't have dual reductions, motor is 7.2lbs and doesn't have good power density, i don't know where i'd find a dyno graph for that motor either.

For under this weight you can get a Shengyi SX2 which would get higher efficiency and power but probably also disqualified from OP's interest due to weight.

dual reductions in the Q100H/CST will trump a small difference in RPM in a motor with a standard 5:1 gear ratio, from the POV of thermal performance & surviving this hill
 
Yeah but we don't have dual reductions, motor is 7.2lbs and doesn't have good power density, i don't know where i'd find a dyno graph for that motor either.

For under this weight you can get a Shengyi SX2 which would get higher efficiency and power but probably also disqualified from OP's interest due to weight.

dual reductions in the Q100H/CST will trump a small difference in RPM in a motor with a standard 5:1 gear ratio, from the POV of thermal performance & surviving this hill

Shengyi SX2 also has a single reduction. IIRC it is 4.8:1 reduction.
 
Yes, and a very high efficiency stator and set of gears, well ahead of most greared motors, that's why i recommended it earlier.
Either that or a an average efficiency dual geared motor, which would be lighter but less efficient if used on the flats.
 
Anyway i said my piece many times, good luck on the decision :)
 
Anyway i said my piece many times, good luck on the decision :)
Yep, and your advice is much appreciated. I'm a bit of a DIY control freak. So I feel uncomfortable if I have to outsource (like wheel building). I know that's weird.
 
It's actually not rocket science, forum members here would be happy to teach it, you will need to invest in at least a hozan thread cutter, spokes, and elbow grease/brainpower.

This is one of those things i always outsource, but not invest in, knowing that over half the time, the nice hub i'm looking at is probably already spoked up for me at grin. :)
 
The Hozan thread cutter really is not worth the effort. It doesn't consistently make good threads.
Calculate the spoke length and have someone make them for you.

Grin calculators are valid . . . probably the most valid for eBike hubs.
or

A recent wheel building thread to examine and understand potential pitfalls.


Bill Mould eBike wheel rebuild video

all Bill Mould videos
 
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I would recomenned a 48v motor, only because less amps are pulled with a higher voltage for same power output.
I have a bbs02 on an old cross bike. The kit was from Luna and they programed it to their specs, and it works so well I never had to change anything but tire size.
 
Less waste heat at the same power output, so yes in that regard.
Thanks. I'll consider that! There is a $1 difference in motor and about a $40 difference in battery — not much price difference.

Thoughts on the battery?

The reason I'm choosing Bafang unless convinced otherwise, is it's remarkably more reliable vs other brands. That's what I'm gathering from reading forums.
 
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I put a TSDZ2b on a bike. It was a 36v 500w unit. Noisier than the Bafang, and not much power. At 48v it might of made me happier, as is the power it gives doesn't do much to counter the added wieght. So, with that limited experience, I loathe the TSD.
 
All right ... I've decided. I looked at the torque-sensing mid-drives and read lots of complaints.

So full circle ... This is what I'm planning to get ... unless someone says, 'Don't do it!' Drum roll ...

BAFANG 36V 500W M315 BBS02B MM G340.500.C for eTour eRoad eBike Conversion

36V 12.8ah - ECO PACK - USED TESTED

Now my question is which size chainring to choose:

36/44/46/48/52 — Any advice?

Current Drivetrain = Microshift Supershort RD — 1x9 30T 11x38

What is your chainline?

Bafang (and various aftermarket companies) make various size chainrings in a variety of offsets in order help keep your chainline straight.

In general, the BBS02 will push your chainring outward (compared to where your stock chainring was) and the generally speaking the larger chainrings have a larger offset available in order to correct this.
 
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What is your chainline?

Bafang (and various aftermarket companies) make various size chainrings in a variety of offsets in order help keep your chainline straight.

In general, the BBS02 will push your chainring outward (compared to where your stock chainring was) and larger the chainring the larger the offset available in order to correct this.
I'm not sure what my chainline is. I am using the middle chainring spot after converting 3x9 to 1x9. It seems super straight and shifts perfectly.
 
You know, you could buy a Yamaha ebike for not much more than the price to convert. They're on sale at steep discount, as Yamaha gives up on the US market.
 
Which is the safer battery option:


Or

 
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