Hobby King LVC/HVC/PARALLEL V3.0 Design Thread (open mic)

methods

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I dont know how it happened so fast but we managed to blow through an entire production run of the HVC/LVC/Parallel boards. In my personal fantasy world I had planned on designing V3.0 while we produced V2.0 and ... yea... that did not happen. It is now time to start a new PCB run and I have decided to dedicate 24 hours to integrating some small changes into the design.

V1.0/V2.0 Design thread
V2.0 Sales Thread

Prototype V1.0
IMG_20110911_203455.jpg


Production V2.0
IMG_20111028_132215-1.jpg


Proposed V3.0
(I will put a picture or two here after I lay it out)


Before anyone gets excited.... from a user perspective these units will be nearly identical to V2.0. The majority of the changes will be production related based on the lessons learned from the first batch. Pricing will remain the same as V2.0

If you are a mildly interested future customer - stop reading now as it is about to get boring :) This thread is for dorks - and mostly just to share what I have learned in the spirit of open source design. The aspiring engineer really needs to know that there is a lot more that goes on behind the curtain than just coming up with a napkin sketch and spinning some PCB's :roll:

Lessons Learned @ MethTek

*) Hand Assembly is not sustainable. After having assembled hundreds of boards Matthew is now very fast.... but his opportunity cost is increasing. For this version it is paramount that we have a design that is Solder Stencil friendly. The current design has several aspects that were not that friendly...


- Board has parts on both sides - this greatly complicates things as a jig has to be built to elevate the board for the second application of paste - AND - the boards have to go through the oven twice. On the second pass through the oven the parts on the bottom are at risk for shifting. That is bullshit - dont even think about it. As a side note - having parts on both sides of the boards adds a second stage to the conformal coating which doubles the work - more on that later.

+ V2.0 will have parts on only one side of the board. This will be the opposite side as the thru-hole connectors. Boards will be laid flat and all surface mount parts (SIP8 and SOT23-5) will be screened. When the boards come out of the oven we will touch up, then flip over and populate all of the thru-hole JST-XH connectors. In this situation only the back of the board need be conformal coated. The only real risk on the top of the board will be the JST pin to pin spacing... there can still be some electrolysis here if users get the boards real wet but there is really nothing we can do about that. Even if we float silicone under the JST housings the pins will still be exposed on top. Good news is that this is on 100mil spacing and the pins are damn beefy... I am pretty confident that they will be robust.

*) Parts count too high... costs too much, takes too long to assemble, takes too long to inspect, too many possible failure points, takes up too much space, requires double sided board, and all around just pisses me off

- To the casual observer the question might be: "why not just use 16pin 4ch opto's?" This was covered in the original build thread - but long story short the detector I am using puts about 15K inline with the photodiodes.... 3V/15K = 200uA. That is a TINY forward diode current and severely limits the opto coupler that we can use. We not only need a darlington pair.... to meet the full temperature range we need a darlington pair with access to VCC to further increase sensitivity. Long story short - by tapping into throttle 5V, Sig, GND we are able to realize an incredible CTR that makes the circuit work over a huge range of temperature and controller input impedances (big inhale....) Ok - so....

The first round of design was a bit rushed. I added margin on top of margin to absolutely KNOW that my circuit would work. This dictated that we selected a very specific and expensive optocoupler that stood out from the rest. This opto was available only in an 8pin SIP package that is HUGE - and since each channel needed two opto's that put 12 parts on the board :roll: . I think we can cut that in half :)

I have crunched the numbers a dozen times - inside out - outside in... I rolled in some of the temperature ranges to better match up with Lipo (eh... nobody is going to be running Lipo in -40C....) I also decided to narrow my compatibility range - some folks using poorly designed controller inputs (like the Lyen series that has a 2K pulldown resistor on the input) will have to pay a little more attention to the tuning of the inline throttle resistance. It is possible at the extremes now that instead of pulling the throttle to hard ground there may be only a significant throttle decay.... so maybe a 2V drop. This should be MORE THAN ENOUGH to signal a rider that time is up - and in 99% of cases I believe I will be able to achieve full throttle cut across temperature. ANYWAY......

We are keeping the same 8pin SIP package but now each one will have 2 opto's inside. This is accomplished by sharing VCC and Ground between pairs of channels.

LVC 1,2
LVC 3,4
LVC 5,6
HVC 1,2
HVC 3,4
HVC 5,6

Now we have dropped from 12 parts to 6 parts. These 6 parts that disappear will come off of the connector side of the board. As mentioned above, this will afford us quite a bit:

Single sided surface mount population
Single sided conformal coating
No need to tape off connectors before spraying (previous connector side conformal coating)
Small savings on parts
Large savings on assembly time and ability to move to solder paste methods from hand population


*) Small board changes

There were a bunch of basic lessons learned like not placing ultra-tiny SOT23-5 parts too close to huge 60mil traces. The huge traces sink too much heat while soldering and make it difficult to get consistant results during assembly. We will be spacing out the SOT23-5 parts for sure....

Larger traces... I am going to make the traces as large as possible to help combat corrosion and electrolysis damage. We have yet to lose a board to electrolysis - but it is only a matter of time - and the thicker the traces are the harder it will be for the corrosion to break the circuit. 0.005" traces can be dissolved in a matter of minutes... 0.020 are much harder to eat through

We are going to un-mask the traces between the balance taps to allow faster soldering (drag soldering) as well as the ability to "beef up" the traces. This helps for sinking heat away from the connector interface during heavy load and just makes things easier and better. There is a negative aspect in that shorting becomes "easier" but we plan to battle this with a heavier conformal coating and perhaps a foam pad to protect against abrasion.

4S, 5S, 6S will become standard. We are going to make an effort to keep all three flavors in stock and we will try our best to pass on a little savings for the 4S boards. The hobby king 4S packs are far too popular to ignore - so for those with deep pockets - we will be able to supply them boards. My opinion is that the value is not there.... but to each his own (I think it makes more sense to work with 5S and 6S packs)

*) Epoxy Option
The beta boards were epoxied. This about killed us and forced us to move to a silicone conformal coating. We are going to now re-investigate the epoxy option now that we wont have to F'around with trying to epoxy the connector side of the board. Now we will be able to run a thicker epoxy and just use a simple doughnut mold. If this works out we will be offering an epoxy version of the boards at a premium price.


*) Silk screen
We are going to try and make the silk a little more informative on this run... JST-XH pins will be marked, throttle input and output will be marked, etc

*) Built in throttle retard
We are going to bring the "Retard circuit" on to the PCB. I think we will make this a basic axial resistor slot where folks can grab a resistor off the shelf at radio crack to tune in their throttle response. Anything from 500 ohms to 5kohms - depending on controller and requirements. This will eliminate the 6pin daisy chain that comes off of the end.... we will have 3 holes for the throttle (5V, Sig, Ground) and three holes for the controller throttle input (5V, Sig, Ground). The current limiting resistor will be on the board - so all folks will have to do is cut their throttle and solder into the board. We may or may not offer a pigtail version of this at a premium... but pigtails waste a lot of god damn time... I hate them.... So I will probably charge something like $5 for anyone who wants plug and play pigtails. It should be noted that there may be length issues... the throttle side will be fine but many controllers have a very short throttle input so this may drive the need to build extensions (which we may sell) or to mount the controller closer to the battery pack

*) HVC Breaker evolves into full protection
The original design routed both LVC and HVC out to the HVC breaker. Some users have already shown that they can swap the wires around and use the HVC breaker inline between their pack and controller for true cut-out control. To make this go mainstream we will need to build a small heat sink for the IRFB4110 fets to be able to handle 40A+ controllers. This is on the back burner - but for that reason we will retain the 6 wire connection out to the HVC breaker to keep those options open.

It should be noted that HVC functionality is lost when the HVC Breaker is modified to work as inline LVC for the entire system.

*) Failures in the field
We have had amazingly few failures out in the field. A common theme has shown up where after a user "makes sparkles" buy making a balance tap mistake (i.e. shorting cells 1-6 with cells 7-12) the probability of damaging the detector chips goes up significantly. Symptoms for damage include higher discharge rates, opto's latched open, opto's latched closed. Without going into a long story about how hard I have worked to make this circuit ultra-ultra low power - suffice to say that the tradeoff for low power is an increased vulnerability to customer miss-wiring. The best way to handle a situation where the customer makes bike sparkles is to have them send the board in for testing. I have a really nice test rig that will allow me to test the leakage current of every channel and confirm the LVC and HVC functionality in a system configuration (i.e. every channel powered while one single channel triggers). As a side note - it is extremely important to test in a system configuration due to the high probability of channel cross contamination (i.e. two channels on the board start interacting due to a low impedance path etc)

*) Tented vias
I would like to tent all via's this time to help eliminate possible electrolysis points... I tried to do this on the HVC Breaker and got hosed by PCB Express when they ignored that portion of my file and opened up all of my vias. This may be their procedure or it may have to do with order of operations... but I would really like to keep my vias tented and only expose my pads for this version

*) Number of parallel JST connectors
Clearly 8 JST connectors is overkill for 99% of ebikes. The count of 8 came from the Motorcycle crowd - and I dont have a strong opinion on how to move forward. Clearly I could run fewer for the ebike guys but it does not really buy me much. I would rather have 1 part in stock that works for every application than try to save a few pennies by making multiple versions. That said... I might consider dropping the 8P to 6P and only populate the remaining parts for motorcycle guys. This would save a few cents and maybe a minute... not sure if it is worth it or not....

*) bulk of daisy chain wires
Yea... I know it is a drag hosing 6 wires all around the board. What it boils down to is increasing sensitivity and versatility. By isolating LVC and HVC I guarantee isolation between the throttle and the charge control circuit - which is DAMN IMPORTANT if you ask me - last thing I want is a huge ground loop on the ground of my 50KW race bike :roll: Bringing out VCC is really worth it as it greatly increases sensitivity on the parts. Even though 90% of the time it is just margin.... that one time where someone is riding a bike in freezing weather (or 120F in the desert) I want to be able to guarantee performance.

Ok - I am tired of typing
That is everything I know... or at least everything I could think up in 5 minutes :mrgreen:

So I am going to order up some parts and start the new layout. Feedback is more than welcome for those who have followed the design from V1.0

For those just now tuning in who want to make feature requests... please refer to the V1.0 design thread. This design is an ULTRA LOW POWER HARDWARE PROTECTION DESIGN and does not lend itself to bells and whistles. I will NOT be implementing any of the following:

*) No cell balancing
*) No LiFe support (there are a ton of LiFe solutions on the market - this solution is specifically for Hobby King Lipo)
*) No support for high power wiring - i.e. we are not going to make a board for paralleling / serializing the 10awg bullet connectors

-methods
 
Would it be worth the time (or evne possible) to eliminate all the vias just to keep them out of the electrolysis picture, assuming the production house screws up an order on them?

I'm fairly patient with routing things like that, so if the software is available (from the PCB Express site, I assume?) I could take a poke at manually routing everything once you've got a board design done, and then you can see if it looks workable.
 
Pretty much impossible. Only way it could be done would be with surface mount jumpers.

I think the solution is to just space out the via's so that they are not close enough to conduct.... that also eliminates the problem.

-methods
 
I think we are also going to produce a very simple testing device. Nothing more than a 2pin connector, 9V battery, and potentiometer. This will allow people to test the LVC and HVC functionality of each channel as well as tune in the LVC throttle resistor and force-trip the HVC Breaker. My only worry is that plugging it in backwards will destroy boards... but we might be able to solve that with a huge inline resistor or a diode array.

Ordering parts....

Starting on the Eagle Layout

-methods
 
I like the idea of integrating the lvc cut so that it goes through the board. In my application I remove the battery pack twice a day. Each time dissconnecting the lvc plug. This doesn't bother me much except that I don't really know it works unless I test it each time. What I mean is if I forget to hook it up, the pins come loose, whatever. The bike will operate normally and I will think I have LVC protection. But if the wiring went through the board the bike would not work unless I had good connections.

I also think I would just prefer an overall cut out for hvc and lvc. Something that could reduce the number of plugs to one set of andersons, Charging and discharging leads merged into one with one big breaker for HVC and LVC.

I'm sure it's hard to break that much current and there are probably technical limitations to doing that, Just say'n it would be easier for me :)

Lastly, I also like the idea of selling a tester. But it has to be smarter than the user. In my case I built a tester but didn't unplug the lipo packs when I tried to test the board. I ended up melting a trace. Totally noob mistake, but maybe you can include some sort of safety for that as well as the reverse hookup.

oh, and subscribed :mrgreen:
 
My only suggestion is for you to use 90 degree connectors on the parallel harness. Not many, even just one will do me fine.

Too big yada yada yada... ;)
 
Ok... If I drop the 3rd row I can make the 4th row 90 degree possibly - if the direction is correct. Might have to go on the other side of the board.

We tested prototypes of the two new chips and everything works great. Layout is 80% done. Matthew has all but finished populating the last of the current batch of PCB's using the newer chips so we will get some street data before we migrate.

Not been sleeping :|
Or rather when I sleep I am still awake.

-methods
 
To eliminate the need for a big heat sink and a bunch of silicon on the active cutoff, you can use a single FET that switches the logic power (key line) to the controller and leave the main + and - wires always connected.
On LVC, the logic power will drop and turn off the controller. This will work with most chinese and large controllers. Even if you forget to turn off the controller for a month, for example, when the LVC triggers, the drain of the controller will be cut off. Most key lines run at under 100mA.

On RC setups, it might work if you switch off the BEC and kill the 5v going to the controller. I'm not sure what the power drain would be in this state.
 
Ever considered making 4p boards instead of 8p?
I think most are well served with 2p to 4p.
Those building 20Ah and more would probably be better off with A123 anyway.
Not sure if it lowers cost by any significant amount,
but it surely saves some space inside the pack.
 
Would really be cool to build an interface board with an app to view all the cell voltages on an Iphone, Droid or kindle fire.
the boards could be linked together and go up as high as 100s for electric cars. That way only a 4 conductor cable will travel to the vehicle
dashboard. Either way its really not necessary or us ebikers, this is good enough.
 
Convenient timing. :D When would you expect these to be sales ready, methods?

momo said:
Would really be cool to build an interface board with an app to view all the cell voltages on an Iphone, Droid or kindle fire.
the boards could be linked together and go up as high as 100s for electric cars. That way only a 4 conductor cable will travel to the vehicle
dashboard. Either way its really not necessary or us ebikers, this is good enough.
Not promoting or anything, but if that's what you're looking for the below might interest you. Completely outside the scope of what meth is doing here though. K.I.S.S.
http://www.emotorwerks.com/emw3/product/ev-dashboard-by-emw-basic-edition/
 
That is a very clever idea - you are always so helpful. I can say for sure that every one of my products has an idea in it that I got from you -> Fechter... enabling the electric revolution :)

In a sense this is what I am doing by latching the throttle... but your idea is definitely better in the sense that it would eliminate the controller draw. Ebikes.ca users could access that wire by opening the cover and tapping in to the switch - though they would have to then find a way to route that wire out. Not sure if Lyen controllers have a power wire. Seen quite a few lately that dont use a switch wire - just main BATT and NEG.

Four pcs of 4110 can pass 30A without a heat sink. With a heat sink I am guessing I could handle 100A pretty easy.
100*100*(4II4II4II4)mOhms = 10K * 1mOhm = 10W
Would need a hell of a heat sink to dump 10W, but reality is that the average power would be much lower... Probably average less than 30A.

There is another problem though _> The same circuitry cant be used to kill both the charge current and the controller switched power since they are going in opposite directions. I would have to redo my HVC Breaker circuit to have two separate circuits. Ideally I would like to find a way to not revise that circuit until I blow through another 100 boards or so.

Same problem with using my current circuit to directly break battery power - can only do that *or* break charge current. Body diodes of the fets again.....

-methods


fechter said:
To eliminate the need for a big heat sink and a bunch of silicon on the active cutoff, you can use a single FET that switches the logic power (key line) to the controller and leave the main + and - wires always connected.
On LVC, the logic power will drop and turn off the controller. This will work with most chinese and large controllers. Even if you forget to turn off the controller for a month, for example, when the LVC triggers, the drain of the controller will be cut off. Most key lines run at under 100mA.

On RC setups, it might work if you switch off the BEC and kill the 5v going to the controller. I'm not sure what the power drain would be in this state.
 
These boards were actually developed for Electric Motorcycles and not ebikes - that is why they are so large. I sell a great deal of boards to folks creating 25S 40Ah Hobby King packs.... They are easier customers too because they buy a lot more boards in one shot and tend to require less customer service.

On the next run I might possibly make a 6P version for the ebike guys and a 10P version for the motorcycle guys. Same overall PCB panel space - but everyone would probably be a little bit happier.

-methods


miuan said:
Ever considered making 4p boards instead of 8p?
I think most are well served with 2p to 4p.
Those building 20Ah and more would probably be better off with A123 anyway.
Not sure if it lowers cost by any significant amount,
but it surely saves some space inside the pack.
 
My BMS does this.
To hell with that project :evil:

-methods

momo said:
Would really be cool to build an interface board with an app to view all the cell voltages on an Iphone, Droid or kindle fire.
the boards could be linked together and go up as high as 100s for electric cars. That way only a 4 conductor cable will travel to the vehicle
dashboard. Either way its really not necessary or us ebikers, this is good enough.
 
They are always for sale:

Forum Sale Thread

http://www.MethTek.com


-methods


x88x said:
Convenient timing. :D When would you expect these to be sales ready, methods?

momo said:
Would really be cool to build an interface board with an app to view all the cell voltages on an Iphone, Droid or kindle fire.
the boards could be linked together and go up as high as 100s for electric cars. That way only a 4 conductor cable will travel to the vehicle
dashboard. Either way its really not necessary or us ebikers, this is good enough.
Not promoting or anything, but if that's what you're looking for the below might interest you. Completely outside the scope of what meth is doing here though. K.I.S.S.
http://www.emotorwerks.com/emw3/product/ev-dashboard-by-emw-basic-edition/
 
From a consumer perspective it wont be worth the wait. I suspect that they will be the same in almost every way.

-methods
 
methods said:
From a consumer perspective it wont be worth the wait. I suspect that they will be the same in almost every way.

-methods
Ok, thanks. Good to know. I'll be ordering some soon then. :D
 
Ok... most of the layout is done. Been talking with Steve and we decided to make a few changes at the last minute.

* The ebike version will now be 5P. That is 4 slots for up to 20Ah and one more slot to bring out balance taps.
* We will be producing straight parallel boards for expansion. 16P or something like that... this will server the motorcycle community.
* LVC will be included on the board. Axial resistor slot for user population. 3 holes for throttle, 3 holes to controller, we can populate for a charge for plug and play

-methods
 
methods said:
Ok... most of the layout is done. Been talking with Steve and we decided to make a few changes at the last minute.

* The ebike version will now be 5P. That is 4 slots for up to 20Ah and one more slot to bring out balance taps.
* We will be producing straight parallel boards for expansion. 16P or something like that... this will server the motorcycle community.
* LVC will be included on the board. Axial resistor slot for user population. 3 holes for throttle, 3 holes to controller, we can populate for a charge for plug and play

-methods

Suggestion, how about making 3p or 4p boards with a jumper connector. There is no way that 16 balance leads are going to be long enough to go to a single board. You could extend all the balance leads but this would be a big hassle. If the boards are lower 'P' you just build jumper JST cables to interconnect between the boards.

You should introduce these boards over on ElMoto when you get the chance. A lot of guys are moving towards RC LiPo packs and these boards would eliminate a lot of wiring, BMS and safety issues they have.

Side Question - HVC occurs at 4.28V from last I remember reading. Anyway to mod this for lower or maybe a pack HVC cut as well?
 
Nuts&Volts said:
Suggestion, how about making 3p or 4p boards with a jumper connector. There is no way that 16 balance leads are going to be long enough to go to a single board. You could extend all the balance leads but this would be a big hassle. If the boards are lower 'P' you just build jumper JST cables to interconnect between the boards.

This works but it does not scale. For instance, if we do 4P boards and someone has a 16P pack you end up needing 6 boards and 5 jumper cables since each jumper cable takes up a slot on each board (i.e. a board will only work for 3 packs in parallel). So what you are suggesting is effectively what we are doing except we are running 6P on the main board and then jumpering out.

6P....
1 for a balance tap
1 for a jumper to the next section
4 packs in parallel

This works for ebike guys up to 20Ah and it works for motorcycle guys with larger packs.

As for the parallel only boards... anything less than 8P would be a waste in my opinion. Balance taps are longer than they seem... one of these boards can service a 3x3 9P pack pretty easy. A lot of guys have special Hobby King packs with 12" balance taps too. Even if a guy cant do 9P he would not have to jumper every pack, just the two or 3 packs farthest from the board

There is a balance to be struck - 4P causes too much jumpering. 8P may not get used by ebike people. 6P is the sweet spot. 8P or 16P for the parallel only boards will work fine.


You should introduce these boards over on ElMoto when you get the chance. A lot of guys are moving towards RC LiPo packs and these boards would eliminate a lot of wiring, BMS and safety issues they have.

I sold a bunch to the guy running the predator bike - folks will see it. The last thing I want to do is spend another 3 hours a day explaining how it works :mrgreen: People who need it will find me.

Side Question - HVC occurs at 4.28V from last I remember reading. Anyway to mod this for lower or maybe a pack HVC cut as well?

This is not meant to be an HVC that you bounce off of - it is meant to be a fire stopper. I agree that 4.22V may be nicer but the manufacturer does not offer the chip in that flavor. It is assumed that there will be some dynamic voltage that will burn off once the charge current terminates leaving you at a true 4.2V

Pack HVC? The way to do that is to set your power supply to the pack voltage that you want. NEVER charge with a charge voltage > desired pack voltage.

-methods
 
wOoT ->

Latest board run came in and they work. Good F'ing thing too because I sank ever last dollar I had into a run of 1,200 boards :twisted:

Parts (optos) are back-ordered, but we will be releasing a few little things like the 4S, 5S, and 6S parallel only boards in a day or two.
They wont be cheap but they will make some peoples builds easier - especially motorcycle guys.

-methods
 
way cool. really is great that they worked on first printing.

you are gonna save a lot of people from losing their bikes, houses or even their jobs if they charge at work.

safety follows the technology.
 
I read through a few topics but I still get a headache from this... So these boards do not balance, these boards make e.g. cell 5 from LiPo pack 1 and cell 5 from LiPo pack 2 the same voltage. (So they balance all 1s, 2s, 3s, 4s, 5s etc. cells from different packs) Is this correct?

Another question: I've got 4 * 5s LiPo's in 10S2P. Is it possible to charge and discharge (discharging by riding with the bike, not with a charger) without changing the configuration of this pack to 5S4P? I just want to ride my bike till the LiPo's are empty, than just plug out the main + and - connector to the ESC and charge it without re-configuring the pack. (At this moment I bulk charge my pack, but as I can't balance it I have to charge all single packs separately now and then) If so, how should I do this? My charger is a 3010B (up to 10S LiPo)
 
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