How about a 3D printer section?

Wow! Thank you GonZo. That is exactly the type of info I was looking for. I will be trying those settings for sure. It's a coincidence that the only filament I have is the Sunlu PLA+ that you mentioned. :) How is it for sucking up water? Mine came not vacuumed packed. Currently I'm keeping it in a good brand gal. sized baggie w/desiccant.

Yesterday when attempting my first overnight print the bowden tube came loose from the hotend and the machine promptly spit out a huge tangle of filament all over the shop. :mrgreen: That's ok, it just gives me an excuse to order more in different colors. I also think I will be looking for better fittings that hold the tube on.

Thanks to everybody for the most excellent info. 👍👍
 
I have an Ender 3. I like PETG a lot. Been buying it from Atomic Filaments. I don't do anything special for storing it, and it seems to work fine.

I second the larger nozzles. For the structural stuff that I print, a 0.8mm nozzle works great and is so much faster.

Also second the PVA bed adhesion. I use watered down elmer's glue and just slather it on.

And I also print slow. I would rather get something right the first time than risk something failing since I was pushing the speeds too high.
 
I managed to get a test print completed. It took about 8 hours. I got some blobs and quite a bit of stringing. I wonder if I should change my temps or increase the retraction?

This was printed @ 210* nozzle and 70* bed temp using Sunlu PLA+ with the standard quality Cura settings.

2021-07-24 12_54_56-Photo - Google Photos.png2021-07-24 12_55_51-Photo - Google Photos.png2021-07-24 12_56_19-Photo - Google Photos.png
 
Could be tempratures, would certainly benefit from a little lower on the nozzle imo but at a guess you'll see a big improvement if you put on a new nozzle. There's no black and white figure for nozzle wear, some folks change the cheap brass ones more regularly than they change rolls of filament, others will print for years with the same one.

They wear fast but when to call it "worn out" is up to you, if accuracy and finish aren't critical then there's little need to keep them in top condition but if you need something to be exact and well finished then put on a new one. Well worth getting higher quality than the regular brass, you'll not really save much long term because the brass ones are so cheap but you'll definitely see an improvement in overall quality and consistency.

EDIT: You may get some improvement increasing retraction but I'd try a new nozzle first, I'd spent ages buggering about with settings the first time I was getting too much stringing, didn't realise how quickly brass nozzles wear. Any idea what caused the step at about 70% height? If it just happened then it's cause for concern, things like that usually get worse over time.
 
Stringing probably isn't helped by temperature, good to check what temp the MFG recommends as any half decent MFG will give a reasonable range, the additives as the + part of the PLA may change the properties up or down temperature wise. Been awhile since I've printed any moist PLA but every other filament type seems to string and blob more from moisture.

That layer shift stan mentioned should also be looked into, I know many of these printers come with the stepper driver current wildly incorrect which could cause skipped steps on any little catch, they aren't too difficult to check and set and there are tons of guides on the subject. Just good to do anyway.

May be over extruding just a tad, hard to tell without feeling those top layers.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. They both sound reasonable. The temps are within the filament mfg specs, but it's obvious I need to tinker with them a bit

I added a dual z axis kit when building the thing and think I should have tried it first with only the one stepper. The idea of only having one lead screw seemed weak considering the v roller/extrusion construction design. As usual I probably out smarted myself. The whole machine design is a little shaky, but I'll bet I left something is loose. Hopefully one of the cheesy lead screws not bent.

I found a guy on YouTube that has a website for calibrating 3D printers. It's interactive in that you can input your settings and it spits out g code that you can then print a model showing the results of different settings you want to check in just one print. It looks like it will help in interpreting the results too.

I'll see how it goes, but for damn sure reading text is way better than listing to hours of rambling on YouTube.

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro

One last thought, I wonder how many pounds of plastic I'll be pissing away until I get the hang of this? One thing for sure is that I can't see this thing will ever make me want to get rid of what I now use to make things. :mrgreen:
 
I finally got my machine calibrated good enough to where it makes EXCELLENT prints. It was a pain but with internet help I managed to get it done. (If you do buy a 3D printer from Creality expect zero aftersales service.)

I must add that for such a cheap machine made with such inexpensive off the shelf parts, the precision it is capable of, to me, is unbelievable! Just yesterday I saw a Ender 3 for sale on Newegg for $130 w/free shipping. Mine is a Ender 3 V2.
 
This is interesting, 3D printer helmets
June 2021
https://bikerumor.com/2021/06/10/kav-is-the-latest-company-3d-printing-bicycle-helmets-for-a-custom-fit/
KAV is the latest company 3D printing bicycle helmets for a custom fit
The days of the “bathrobe approach” to helmet fitting may be numbered. What’s that? That’s what KAV refers to the idea of purchasing one of a few sizes of bicycle helmets, and then cinching it down to fit your head. Instead, they claim to offer a better fit – through 3D printing, of course.

Like HEXR and Kupol, KAV is utilizing the magic of 3D printing to create the next generation of cycling helmets. However, each company is going about their helmet construction in completely different ways.

KAV is taking what they’ve learned through making a 3D printed custom hockey helmet, and applying that to the world of bicycles. Most notably, the KAV helmet is 3D printed using a proprietary TPE they claim to be 20% lighter, 50% stronger, and “attenuates impacts better than EPS foam.” This actually allows the helmet to flex under impact, returning to its original form afterwards.

KAV not only claims that the honeycomb TPE stucture “crumples and shears to reduce linear and angular accelerations to the head,” but it also makes for a more durable helmet that can survive being dropped, bumped, or shuffled around your car or garage. KAV states that their helmet exceeds CPSC test standards.

Further claims include being lighter and more aerodynamic than competitors. Those claims stem from the fact that a custom fit helmet can be made smaller on average, which means less material and up to a 14% smaller frontal cross section. KAV doesn’t provide any data to back up the aero claims on their Kickstarter, however.

There are also few details on what the final product will look like on the inside. It’s not clear if there will be any padding inside, but KAV does mention that it will be adjustable to fit a cycling cap underneath, or make small changes to the fit. That seems to imply there will be some sort of fit system, though no details are provide.

Ventilation is provide through the honeycomb structure down the center of the helmet, while the sides and back of the helmet claim to provide more protection than your average road helmet.

KAV plans to send out a fit kit to customers that will be used in conjunction with a ‘fit technician’ to help measure your head and get the perfect fit. Then a machine learning algorithm is said to map your specific measurements against their head scan database to create a virtual head rendering. From this rendering, your custom helmet file is created, printed out, hand finished, and sent back to you.

Currently offered through a fully backed Kickstarter campaign, the KAV helmets start at $275 for the limited Launch Special, which is $100 off the MSRP of $375.

kavsports.com


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https://hexr.com/

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and not related to 3D but related to helmets for bigger heads
I think it would be good to have a backup copy
for prosperity reasons, in case anyones searching for a big helmet or an unusual shaped head helmet
it is tough to find, I haven't found one yet @ 65mm
I need a helmet to ride in group rides on Meetup.com so I suffer wearing helmets that dont fit.

https://helmets.org/unusualshape.htm
Bike Helmets for Unusual Head Shapes

Summary: Although nobody makes custom helmets, here are some ideas for making a standard helmet fit your unusual head shape.


Riders with unusual head shapes often find it difficult to find a bike helmet that fits.

As far as we know, nobody makes a custom bicycle helmet. It would be prohibitively expensive to design one, make the molds, produce enough samples and have it certified by a test lab to the legally-required CPSC standard. With administrative and other overhead costs a manufacturer would have to budget $25,000 or more to produce the one helmet.

The best advice we can offer is to get a larger helmet and add fitting pads where needed. You would need enough padding to be sure that the helmet is stable on your head so that it is in place when you crash. We have a page up on larger helmets.

You may have better luck with one of the one-size-fits-all helmets, with what we call ring fit. They are sized with a band around the head rather than fitting pads.That might work out better for your head shape, but since the helmet will probably be larger than you would normally require, you may need to glue in pads to be sure it will be stable on your head.

Denting or shaving down the inside of the stiff foam liner to make the helmet fit you would reduce your protection, so that would not be an optimal choice.

You might want to start with one of the helmets that has extra rear coverage, since those are inherently more stable on your head. We identified some of those in this section of our review of helmets for 2013.

Depending on your head shape, it might help to start with a rounder helmet that fits Asian heads. That might give you more room where you need it, depending on your head shape. If so, take a look at our page for rounder heads.

There is now one custom helmet manufacturer, but they make only helmets certified to the European EN1078 standard, so they would not pass the US CPSC standard and are not yet available in the US market. The company is HexR. They produce custom helmets with a 3D printed liner of hexagonal honeycomb cells that crush on impact. The liner is custom made for the wearer's head, using data from a head scan. Scans can be done in London, or at home with an iPad. This helmet might be the answer for riders with unusual head shapes. We don't know what the maximum and minimum sizes would be. There is no model for children. The HexR sells for �300, including the head scan. The concept of scanning heads at home offers promise for fitting helmets of all types, even off-the-shelf models. Eventually manufacturers might be able to match a scan of your unique head with a model that can be made to fit.

https://www.helmets.org/bighead.htm
Some riders need extra extra large helmets. That includes some with medical conditions that result in very large head sizes, and some who just have naturally large heads. Here are the largest models we know of, although this page is due for a major revision, and a number of them may no longer be available:

Atlas X-treme M3 Extra from Asctechs: 68cm heads (US size 8 1/2, 26-3/8 inches) No standard certification listed, so may not be a bicycle helmet.
Bontrager Quantum: fits up to 26.0"/66cm heads.
Fly Racing BMX/motorcycle models: Trophy II, Gmax GMX-46X, Gmax GMX-46Y, fit up to 26.0"/66cm heads.
Prowell Lightning: reported by one emailer as fitting his 66cm head.
Bell Stoker: fits heads up to 25.6/65cm. Replaces the Kinghead.
Bell XLV: fits heads up to 25.6/65cm.
Bell XLP: fits heads up to 25.6/65cm.
Bell Traverse XL: fits heads up to 25.5/65cm.
Bern Brentwood: fits heads up to 25"/63.5cm
Bern Macon: fits heads up to 25"/63.5cm
Cratoni C-Stream: fits up to 25.6/65cm heads. (rounder interior)
Giro Chronicle XL: a 2019 model. See this review.
Giro Register aka Giro Bronte: fits up to 25.6/65cm heads.
Louis Garneau Quartz: fits up to 25.6/65cm heads.
Uvex X-Ride/X-Fit: fits up to 65 cm (25.6 inch) heads. Can be ordered from Wheelfine Imports. <>I>Lazer Vandal: fits up to 25.2"/65cm heads.
Catlike Tako: fits up to 25.2"/64cm heads.
Kask Mojito XL: fits up to 25.2"/64cm heads. Asian head shape.
LAS Big Devil: fits up to 25.2"/64cm heads.
Etto Vortex: fits up to 25.2"/64cm heads.
Specialized Max Adult XXL: advertised at 64cm (25.2), but fits some who found the Bell helmets listed above were too small.
Vigor NOX: fits up to 25.6"/65cm heads.
Giro Atlas II: fits up to 24.8"/63cm heads.
Giro Radix MIPS XL: fits some wider heads better than the Specialized Max XXL.
Ked City: fits up to "64cm +" (25.2" +) heads.
Ked Neo Visor: fits up to 64cm (25.2 inch) heads.
Limar Big One: fits up to 24.8"/63cm heads.
Louis Garneau Olympus and Arcterus: fit up to 24.8"/63cm heads, but some emailers tell us that Garneau's larger sizes fit them better than others. One who has a large Asian head with a rounder profile found that the Arcterus fit him well. Another with an oblong head said the same thing.
Netti Quantum Pro: fits up to 24.8"/63cm heads.
Nutcase L: Skate style helmet, L/XL advertised as 64cm. A shop specializing in large bikes for large people informs us that the Nutcase in L/XL fits many customers who have larger heads. That has been confirmed by individual emails.
Nutcase XL: Skate-style helmet that fits some heads larger than its advertised size.

You can find comments on each of these helmets in our Helmets for the Current Season article.

Many tape measures are not accurate. Measuring your head is not very precise, either, so the numbers above should not be taken as exact. We have a sizing page for converting fraction/inch/cm sizes.

Success in fitting a large head depends on the shape as well as the size. Some emailers report that they can use a smaller size with some helmets due to the shape, or that one helmet with the same measurements has more room for them than another. That depends on the individual head shape and the interior profile used by the manufacturer, both difficult for us to pin down and best determined by a fitting. We do note that the Cratoni Radon seems to work better for rounder heads. We have more on that on our page about helmets for rounder heads. That can also mean more room for a wider head. For longer, narrower heads we have received good comments about the Bontrager Quantum, some from riders who have tried many other helmets.

You may have already tried one of these helmets, and of course you have already tried removing most or all of the foam fitting pads. That is the only way to make more room for your head without modifying the helmet in a way that reduces protection.

Perched on top of your head?
If most helmets seem to perch on top of your head, leaving the sides uncovered, there are some options. First you can take out the fitting pads in the top to move the helmet further down. You can also use a larger helmet with more headroom, putting thicker fitting pads on the sides. If you are lucky, you can fit in one of the bike helmets with additional side coverage, like the THE F-20, Giant Realm, Fox Flux, POC Trabec, Pro-Tec Cyphon and SixSixOne Recon. See our page on helmets for the current season for more info on them. Or if you can stand the lack of ventilation, one of the skate-style helmets noted in the list above may work for you.

Hydrocephalus
This disorder results in very large heads. Unfortunately, we do not know of any manufacturer who makes helmets to respond to this need. An extensive search by a Florida hospital in the fall of 2016 failed to find a source for a bike helmet for hydrocephalitic heads.
Custom Helmet?
We do not know of any manufacturer now producing extra large custom helmets. The tooling to do that would be expensive, and they would have to produce extras for the lab testing to certify the helmet as a new model. As new liner materials become available it may become more practical to produce a custom helmet, but the extra large outer shell would still be a problem, and the certification testing would still be required.

And the future: Register your needs
Over the decades, the average American's head size has increased. Manufacturers are aware of this long term trend, but until the 2005 model year they apparently doubted that there was a large enough market for extra large helmets to make a profit on them. Up until then, only Bell had produced an XXL model, fitting up to 8 1/4 or 26" circumference heads. In the years since then, more manufacturers are making larger sizes, but still not large enough for some heads.

If demand becomes more evident, more large helmets will appear on the market. We have tried to help by highlighting this need to helmet manufacturers at ASTM helmet standards committee meetings and suggesting to the manufacturers that there might be money to be made making a larger helmet. It could help if more people needing large helmets would contact the manufacturers. Here are a few selling in the US market:

Bell/Giro

Lazer

Louis Garneau

Specialized

Trek

Uvex

Vigor

And at least one in Japan, made for rounder heads, the OGK Kabuto Steair-X. See our page on rounder heads.

Please let us know with an email if you find other good solutions to this problem that we can pass on to the next person with a very large head, or if you find a helmet that works particularly well with your head shape.


https://www.helmets.org/round.htm
Bicycle Helmets for Rounder Heads

Summary: This page is for those who have rounder head shapes and find most helmets made for the US market too squared off inside to be comfortable.


Heads have different shapes. There are individual variations and types. The world's rounder heads seem to be found among Asian peoples. A helmet made for the Japanese market has to be configured differently inside than those normally sold in the US or in Europe. It will feel uncomfortable on most Caucasian heads. Although the dimensions from front to back and side to side are about the same, there are ridges in different places that have to be accommodated. Many Americans of Asian extraction find it difficult to find a good fit in the US market. Using a typical US brand helmet forces the user with an Asian head shape to install thick pads to compensate for lateral ridges, forcing a too-large helmet.

In May of 2021 Trek announced a new round fit version of their Starvos WaveCel model. It is being marketed in the US. Trek's description: "Round Fit sizing designed to accommodate rounder head shapes." The retail price is $100.

One obvious solution for a rider with a round head is to buy a helmet made for Japan. That may be more difficult than it should be, since Japan does not have the easy internet and mail order options that US retailers offer. And long-distance fitting seldom works out as well as putting the actual helmet on your own head and trying it. The Japanese Bicycle Federation JBF helmet standard actually requires that the helmet have a round head fit, so if you find a helmet meeting it you will have found a round helmet. Unfortunately, JFB-certified helmets are not likely to offer enough protection to pass the US CPSC standard.

One rider of Asian parentage shared with us his internet research. "While looking for helmets on Amazon Japan, I read that people have been able to buy products in Japan and have them shipped to the US using a forwarding service called Tenso. I was able to buy OGK Kabuto Steair-X which fits my head perfectly. OGK Kabuto makes a few helmets for large heads and since these helmets are made for the Japanese market they also fit round heads well." Another rider bought an OGK Kabuto Zenard XXL and it fit his very large round head, as did all OGK Kabuto XL and XXL models. The same rider fit well into a Kask Mojito X-Large.

In January of 2020 a rider asked Giro and was told they did make Asian Fit for their Aether, Synthe, and Syntax helmets. But there are no US retailers selling them, so they may not meet the US standard. This rider found an Ebay listing by a South Korean seller for the Giro Aether.

Another rider with a round head contributed these links to Japanese sites:

Smith (the red circular dot indicates the "Asian Fit" models). One rider who asked Smith about their helmets was told that the outer shell is the same as US models, but the pads are shaped for Asian heads.
Specialized
Bontrager has Asia Fit versions of the Ballista, the Velocis, the Circuit, and the Solstice in addition to the XXX (their customer service told me that they have no plans to offer a variant of the Specter at the moment, sadly. See below)
Lazer (The "AF" in the product name stands for Asian Fit. There are no MIPS versions?)

Bontrager (Trek) has an Asia Fit model of their XXX WaveCel available in Japan for rounder Asian heads. The WaveCel models scored high in Virginia Tech's testing for low impact and concussion protection. They are written up on our Helmets for 2019 page. We don't know if US Trek stores can get them or not. Trek also sells the Bontrager Specter WaveCel in Japan, but it is the same helmet sold in the US, so apparently riders select a size larger for their wider head.

One cyclist emailed that they found Japanese helmets on the Japanese Amazon site. Some of them say they are certified to the CPSC standard. But the cyclist had to have the helmet forwarded through Tenso anyway.

In the US market, there is no helmet we know of that is designed for rounder heads. Specialized has one model, the Contour, that is marketed in Japan and made for Asian heads, but they don't sell it in the US. It is based on the Specialized Align model, but it is not an adapted US helmet. It is made in a different mould that is shaped for Japanese heads. We received an email in 2012 from the owner of an Asian head saying he found the Specialized Covert, a similar helmet to the Contour, fitted his head well. He had tried on no less than 50 other helmets that did not. We received another email confirming that in January, 2013, saying "Got the large and I have not had a helmet fit so well in about 10 years! Previous XXL large helmets would not even go down on my head, so this was huge improvement." We have heard from at least two riders with a very large Asian head that the Louis Garneau Arcterus fitted them better than any of the other super-sized models. In 2015 a Singapore resident told us he found that the Specialized Tactic II fitted his head well. But you may have to buy in Asia or Japan to get the round head fit. In 2020 another rider emailed that he has tried the US version of the POC Coron Air Spin (full face mountain helmet) and it fit his round head well.

Four European manufacturers: Bell (their Euro line), Bern, Cratoni, Kask and Selev, have models that they inform us will fit rounder heads better, but we don't have any feedback from users on that yet. Bern has a special pad kit they call the "Japan Fit" kit with top pads and inserts that convert their models to fit rounder heads. It can be ordered directly from Bern. Check them out on our Helmets for This Season page. In 2015 Kask added their Mojito XL, the only Asian-fit helmet for up to 64cm (25.2") heads. In 2019 Bell has the Aeon, Savant, Sonnet, Revel, Verona and Raze. All are certified to the European standard, not CPSC, so are not available in the US.

In the UK there is hope for rounder-headed riders if you want an actual custom-fitted helmet manufactured to fit your own head. HEXR is scanning heads with iPads and manufacturing custom helmets with 3d printers. They meet the EN1078 European helmet standard. See this section of our Helmets for 2020 page for more info. The concept of scanning heads at home offers promise for fitting helmets of all types, even off-the-shelf models.

In the distant past, one manufacturer with a unique design claimed that their helmet accommodated rounder heads better because it was made with flexible chunks of foam joined together by internal mesh, and the foam panels can move slightly to accommodate to different head shapes. Here is our writeup on that helmet, the SportScope, for the 2001 season. It has disappeared from the market in subsequent years, but you may find a dusty one around somewhere, or be able to locate it online. In 2013 Bell reintroduced the concept, but with a solid outer shell and segmented foam pieces in the liner. The model is called the Segment, but we have no reports on how well it fits rounder heads.

In 2011, the Swiss company TSG introduced their Kraken model, based on the same type of segmented foam liner that the Sportscope used. You can read about it on our Helmets for 2011 page or on TSG's web page.

Another approach that may work for rounder heads is the "one size fits all" helmet that has what we call a ring fit system. The helmet fits by adjusting a ring around the head. The pieces that attach the ring to the helmet are often adjustable, and you may find one that can accommodate your head shape. Unfortunately we don't know which brand or model would be best.

If you are forced to make your round head fit in a square helmet, the best alternative will be to use the fitting pads that come with the helmet, or extra fitting pads, to try to achieve a rounder shape. Cratoni informed us some years back that they were selling the same helmets in the US and in Asia just by including their "Asian fit pads" when they ship helmets to Asia. They were not selling their Asian pads separately, but that indicates that the pad solution is possible if you are willing to fiddle with it. Extra fit pads are usually available at bike shops. Or you can add other foam from somewhere else if it works for you, since its role is to stabilize the helmet on your head and add comfort, and the fitting foam is not part of the helmet's impact protection.

Denting or shaving down the inside of the stiff foam liner to make the helmet fit you would reduce your protection, so that would not be an optimal choice. Better to buy a larger size and add pads to the front and back. Experimenting with fit pads is probably your best bet, even though it will be a fussy process.

If you find a better way, a source of Asian fit pads, or a formula for the use of the pads, please contact us so we can add it to this page.

For general fitting instructions, see our page on fitting helmets..

If you need to find out what your size is, check this page.
 
Currently offered through a fully backed Kickstarter campaign, the KAV helmets start at $275 for the limited Launch Special, which is $100 off the MSRP of $375.
Im sure they will find enough cashed up customers to keep them fed,...but this is a classic solution to a problem that does’nt exist,.. at a cost few can afford.
Or maybe someone looking for a product just to use their process equipment on.
 
This was printed @ 210* nozzle and 70* bed temp using Sunlu PLA+ with the standard quality Cura settings.

That temperature is very low for Sunlu PLA+
I recommend you 220ºC or higher.
 
nicobie said:
That's a good idea, but not too sure how popular it will be.

I'm late here, but have 3d printed;
1. Agnius NESE snapfit 18650 modules for a 3.25kWhr pack (22mOhm lead-to-lead resistance for 21s14p 30Q cells)
2. screw clamps to secure the battery,
3. internal mount that fits inside the front of a Q140 frame box for a Pi, 12v system, relays, a
4. keyswitch gasket, and
5. Anderson powerpole gasketed charging port
6. BeamTS torque sensor mount for Q140
7. Brake caliper to trailer adapter (fits around OEM cast steel part)
8. Fox Float RP23 large volume reducer,
9. Taillight frame
10. 5" LED headlight/horn mount for Fox 40 fork with FEA-optimized arms,
11. gasketed case for my custom ASI controller/JBD bms Pi display, and
12. reed switch mounts for brake lever sensors (Only fits Hope 3v4's, made photogrametrically)

Plus bottle cages and flashlight mounts for the pushbikes. I recognize I'm an exception and perhaps have abused it lol. But I would love such a section! I do plan to post some of those models in a build thread once I get all my materials together, but it would be cool to have a central place to look for niche ebike-related models. It's great for all sorts of odds and ends! Some of the tricky contours on the Q140 frame like the inside front of the frame and swingarm taper/fillets required an iteration or two to match properly, so they're not just useful for cloning a build but to design other similar custom parts.

I'm planning on printing one of these and taking my ebike to pride next year 8)
 
How could someone scan in the profile of an item and replicate it on the 3D printer?
Lets say I wanted to copy the profile and angles of a light bulb, or an old snub-nose glass bottle.
Jay Leno had something like that, but I am sure it cost $10k+
 
markz said:
How could someone scan in the profile of an item and replicate it on the 3D printer?
Lets say I wanted to copy the profile and angles of a light bulb, or an old snub-nose glass bottle.
Jay Leno had something like that, but I am sure it cost $10k+

With a 3d scanner of course! ;)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1762299
That's the first one that came up, not sure if it's the original project of that kind (if only we had version control...), there are loads of designs aiming at the same thing and some of the results are impressive and getting better all the time. Not sure how good they'd be for exact dimensions but they can certainly give very good results for reproducing shapes.
 
xenodius said:
I'm late here, but have 3d printed;

Good job! those look to be useful prints for things that are a lot easier to print than fabricate and look like they will do the job just fine.

As a side note to all, Don't make my mistake and buy any of the Sunlu SPLA that's on sale for $8.50/kilo. It's supposed to be a combo of PLA and PETG. It didn't work for me no matter what I tried it had extremely bad layer adhesion, left little globs on the walls and didn't stick to the plate very good. I should have tried harder for info on it before ordering. Some guy on YOUtube said it ruined his hotend after about ½ a roll. :? I do really like the Sunlu PLA+ though and will be buying more of that. I'm looking forward to trying some nylon/carbon fibre too. I've been reading it prints easier than straight nylon.
 
markz said:
How could someone scan in the profile of an item and replicate it on the 3D printer?
Lets say I wanted to copy the profile and angles of a light bulb, or an old snub-nose glass bottle.
Jay Leno had something like that, but I am sure it cost $10k+

I did this for a couple of the parts I printed on my bike. I took ~80 pictures and loaded them into Agisoft Photoscan, and let it work its magic for about 16 hours to create a mesh which can be used as a guide or if its good enough quality, to subtract/boss from your model.

That said if it was just a lightbulb that is circularly uniform, I'd probably take a couple measurements, take a photo, use the photo to sketch its profile, then revolve the profile into a solid body to use in my model.

nicobie said:
Good job! those look to be useful prints for things that are a lot easier to print than fabricate and look like they will do the job just fine.

As a side note to all, Don't make my mistake and buy any of the Sunlu SPLA that's on sale for $8.50/kilo. It's supposed to be a combo of PLA and PETG. It didn't work for me no matter what I tried it had extremely bad layer adhesion, left little globs on the walls and didn't stick to the plate very good. I should have tried harder for info on it before ordering. Some guy on YOUtube said it ruined his hotend after about ½ a roll. :? I do really like the Sunlu PLA+ though and will be buying more of that. I'm looking forward to trying some nylon/carbon fibre too. I've been reading it prints easier than straight nylon.

Thanks, they work well so far! Best thing is they'll be super easy to replace if I ever break any of them. I've found bedliner works super well with PETG, sticks better than primer + paint and is more durable so while it's not pictured on most of those parts, I've used it on all the external stuff. :thumb:

I've heard that too, I've got a Prusa Mk3's with upgraded Bear X-axis and a Skelestruder (I highly recommend the Skelestruder if you have a Prusa) but no enclosure. So I've hesitated to try nylon, based on past rough experiences with ABS. That is exactly where carbon fiber nylon is supposed to shine-- less warping. Just watch for the abrasion-- use a hardened nozzle not brass, I like the Nozzle-X. I used PETG for all those prints as they're exposed to the elements, some Prusament the rest is cheapo CC3d. But I use PLA anywhere it's suitable for the sake of the environment. It also is forgiving to print, bridges like crazy.

It sounds like a tuning problem but then again, I can't imagine how mixing two materials with such different properties would turn out and I've never tried it. I have tried multi-material prints, and found that PLA and PETG do not like to stick to each other. However, PETG and TPU stick just fine, quite well if you crank up the temp a little. All the TPU gaskets on my parts are printed directly onto the PETG part. 8)
 
No its more then that
The angles aren't much, its more subtle curvatures to get flow over the item to match an expensive item I want to copy. I guess something similar would be the air flow over a plane wing or helicopter blade, or the ruter of a boat. Thats more similar to the idea I have, but I can't outright tell you what my idea is because I will soon be on Dragons Den or Shark Tank and make millions.

xenodius said:
markz said:
How could someone scan in the profile of an item and replicate it on the 3D printer?
Lets say I wanted to copy the profile and angles of a light bulb, or an old snub-nose glass bottle.
Jay Leno had something like that, but I am sure it cost $10k+
I did this for a couple of the parts I printed on my bike. I took ~80 pictures and loaded them into Agisoft Photoscan, and let it work its magic for about 16 hours to create a mesh which can be used as a guide or if its good enough quality, to subtract/boss from your model.

That said if it was just a lightbulb that is circularly uniform, I'd probably take a couple measurements, take a photo, use the photo to sketch its profile, then revolve the profile into a solid body to use in my model.
 
markz said:
No its more then that
The angles aren't much, its more subtle curvatures to get flow over the item to match an expensive item I want to copy. I guess something similar would be the air flow over a plane wing or helicopter blade, or the ruter of a boat. Thats more similar to the idea I have, but I can't outright tell you what my idea is because I will soon be on Dragons Den or Shark Tank and make millions.

Take another look at this mount that goes inside the Qulbix frame. It may not be immediately obvious but it does actually have complex curves. E.g. look at the extended mounts for the relays up top-- one side is further from the profile. In principle this is just like modeling half of a wing.

mcD98BKl.jpg


I created a mesh from pictures inside the frame with Agisoft Photoscan. Then in Solidworks I 3d-sketched splines along those mesh contours, then converted the splines into a surface, then thickened the surface into a uniformly-thick body.

Trying to use scanned objects directly is almost always not a good idea. Invariably it requires a ton of work in Meshmixer or the like to clean them up. Probably the only case I'd use a scanned mesh directly, is to subtract it from a model to fit onto a complex surface (e.g. rough stucco, natural stone). It also depends a bit on your 3d printing approach. I use FDM so the quality improvement of printing a uniformly-thick structure modeled this way, versus gapfilling +/- 0.4mm variability along a scanned mesh is considerable. For SLS it's not as important. But working with meshes can be quite tricky. Perhaps you'd be better off learning a NURB's modeler instead of the bread-and-butter parametric, or something that is a hybrid of the two. I like Solidworks for my purposes but you may prefer Rhino.
 
goatman said:
got mine today :thumb:

That's the one I bought. Excellent choice. :mrgreen: If you bought it on Amazon from Comgrow don't expect much after sale service.

Lots of stuff on youtube about that printer. Ton's of upgrades available. I went/am going a bit crazy with them.

To get going I recommend CHEP on youtube. Once you are up and running, Teaching Tech is very useful.

Good filament to start with is Sunlu PLA+. I buy from them direct for the best deal. Yesterday I got delivered a kilo of black and one of red for $32 US w/no tax and free shipping (on sale).

These machines are capable of printing with nylon/carbon fibre filament if using a after market all metal hotend. I bought a Micro Swiss one. Haven't bought any of the nylon/CF filament yet, but it will be next after I get all the mods to the machine done. Probably try NylonX.

I had a blast butting the thing together and getting it to print. Have fun!
 
CHEP helped me build my printer last night :D
then he told me i need to make stl files and g-code and slicer :shock:
just trying to find a cad program for stl files so i can print a shaft coupling
atleast i think its cad, im more noobier than you at this
 
⬆ That's a good link

Right now you need thingiverse. Pick a 'thing' there and d/l the file into cura and get printing. After a few prints you'll start to see how things go wrong and what to do about it, mess with the settings etc.

Then I think it's time for tinkercad. At least that's what I'm doing. After I get my feet wet, I might go to fusion 360.
 
When I was in Collage they tried to get me to take Cad. Did not know what I would use it for. Now I know. :lol:
Have been playing around with it. Need to dig in deeper.

by goatman » Aug 29 2021 7:00pm

CHEP helped me build my printer last night :D
then he told me i need to make stl files and g-code and slicer :shock:
just trying to find a cad program for stl files so i can print a shaft coupling
atleast i think its cad, im more noobier than you at this

In a year or two you will be teaching others.

Let me know when you starting printing carbon fiber bike and trike frames!
 
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