Lock
100 MW
Including batteries, empty panniers and baskets and all needed to make it practical and road-worthy, but excluding rider weight or trailer, how heavy is your ebike?
Tks
llok
Tks
llok
How heavy is your ebike?
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adrian_sm
1 MW
Good timing. I only just got around to weighing mine last night. After about 900kms of ebiking around.
Hardtail Avanti Montari, rear Crystalyte 408, and a frame mounted headway 48V10Ah pack.
10.5kg (23lbs) @ the front
18.8kg (41lbs) @ the rear
For a total of 29.3kg (64lbs)
Hardtail Avanti Montari, rear Crystalyte 408, and a frame mounted headway 48V10Ah pack.
10.5kg (23lbs) @ the front
18.8kg (41lbs) @ the rear
For a total of 29.3kg (64lbs)
Roy
100 mW
100lbs. But it's a tandem bike with 5 12ah SLA's
Link
1 MW
Cheapie Wal-Mart FSB w/ old Golden Motor and 48V/20Ah of LiFe = I think like 75lbs? I forget. :?
Zoot Katz
100 kW
I've not weighed the bike but adding up the components, it's about 120# (54.5 kg).
Filling the water bottle and carrying the locks brings it closer to 130# (59 kg).
FTR: le Béte is a mid 80's butted cromo mixte MTB with Xtracycle running a X 5304 rear and 18 Ah of NiMH at 48 volts.
Filling the water bottle and carrying the locks brings it closer to 130# (59 kg).
FTR: le Béte is a mid 80's butted cromo mixte MTB with Xtracycle running a X 5304 rear and 18 Ah of NiMH at 48 volts.
Lock
100 MW
*bump*
...Thanks folks, for your clicks... Not a representative sampling yet but getting there. This survey stems from other current threads on ES about ebike legalities. It is interesting to note that so far based on your responses about 80% would not be affected by a 50Kg maximum weight limit.
Pls. click once if you have not already done so!
Cheers
locC
...Thanks folks, for your clicks... Not a representative sampling yet but getting there. This survey stems from other current threads on ES about ebike legalities. It is interesting to note that so far based on your responses about 80% would not be affected by a 50Kg maximum weight limit.
Pls. click once if you have not already done so!
Cheers
locC
damcard
100 W
My Cy-Glide weighed in at 87.5 lbs.
About 120 pounds, before I load anything into it. Another 10 or 20 pounds of tools/etc that I carry with me just in case, ice water, etc. That's with the 2x 12V 31Ah U1 SLAs I was using from a wheelchair. Now I'm using 3x 12V 17Ah SLAs from a UPS, which is a little lighter (10-15 pounds?) but probably a lot shorter range (not yet tested max range).
If I want the full range the way it's configured now, I'd have to put all three of the U1s on there, and then it'd be close to 145 pounds. (and a real bear to ride and control, since one of them would have to ride on the rear rack, making it harder to balance).
I guess if someone did make a weight limit of 176 pounds (80kg), I'd still be safe at the moment. But I expect my planned long-range cargo trike would push that, possibly exceed it if all I have for batteries by then is lead (they may weigh that much by themselves!).
I wonder if that limit only includes the actual vehicle frame/body itself, and not batteries. If it does include batteries, does it then also include trailers? Because I could offload the battery weight to a trailer....
If I want the full range the way it's configured now, I'd have to put all three of the U1s on there, and then it'd be close to 145 pounds. (and a real bear to ride and control, since one of them would have to ride on the rear rack, making it harder to balance).
I guess if someone did make a weight limit of 176 pounds (80kg), I'd still be safe at the moment. But I expect my planned long-range cargo trike would push that, possibly exceed it if all I have for batteries by then is lead (they may weigh that much by themselves!).
I wonder if that limit only includes the actual vehicle frame/body itself, and not batteries. If it does include batteries, does it then also include trailers? Because I could offload the battery weight to a trailer....
torker
100 kW
79 lbs.
AussieJester
1 TW
165lb 
I seem to have neglected to update this thread with the *real* weight. I found that it was closer to 150lbs (including my toolbag and foot air pump, bike lock/cable, and a pound of bungee cords I keep in the cargo pods).
So I put it on a diet, and have posted a couple times on the project blog about the results and potential weight loss candidates.
First:
http://electricle.blogspot.com/2009/09/first-day-of-diet-bike-is-starving.html
has pics of some of the changes.
Most recently:
http://electricle.blogspot.com/2009/09/diet-continues-decisions-decisions.html
I'm still trying to think of good weight reductions I can safely do, but there's not a lot yet.
* The frame mods already done took off perhaps 3-5 pounds.
* I might get a half a pound off by going to the single-cable multi-conductor thin-gauge wire for all the bike lighting and sensors and stuff, removing that scooter harness.
* I'll probably gain an ounce or two going to the all-LED lighting for the turn signals/marker lights, but I'll lose at least a pound by removing the other lighting system that was on the DayGlo Avenger (which I'd like to put back on it).
* The cargo pods and their attachment frame are maybe 15-20 pounds, empty. Part of that frame (the front half of the square tubing) is also the seat mount, though, so doesn't count.
* The batteries alone are I think 51 pounds. I'd have to go to something like A123 cells to get enough power in a lighter package that wouldn't be damaged by what I use it for.
* The difference between the 4 pole motor about to go on and the heat-damaged 2 pole motor about to come off is more weight added than I took off with those frame modifications.
* The front fork can lose around 5 pounds, maybe less, if I go to the non-shock fork. I'll gain at least two of that back if I add the headtube shock later.
* The steel front cranks are maybe 2 or 3 pounds heavier than aluminum ones would be (if I had any to spare for it).
* Can't get the seat any lighter.
* Handlebars are as light as they'll get for the shape I need, unless I could get some modern ones custom-made out of thinner but stronger tubing (or get lucky and find some scrapped like I did these).
* Those little white baskets that held the batteries before could take off a pound or so, but they will actually hold my backpack or something else, bungeed between them and the bottom of the seat, should I take the cargo pods off for any reason.
* There's nothing else I think I can safely remove from the bike frames themselves.
* The 26" wheel with wide steel rim is probably a couple of pounds more than a 24"; since I only really went to 26 because I had a lower-rolling resistance tire for 26 but not 24, I can go back to 24 once the tires arrive from All Electronics.
* The toolkit could probably be slimmed down a couple of pounds if I could standardize all the fasteners on the bike, so that any emergency roadside work doesn't require the large assortment of tools and driver bits that I carry right now.
So I put it on a diet, and have posted a couple times on the project blog about the results and potential weight loss candidates.
First:
http://electricle.blogspot.com/2009/09/first-day-of-diet-bike-is-starving.html
has pics of some of the changes.
Most recently:
http://electricle.blogspot.com/2009/09/diet-continues-decisions-decisions.html
I'm still trying to think of good weight reductions I can safely do, but there's not a lot yet.
* The frame mods already done took off perhaps 3-5 pounds.
* I might get a half a pound off by going to the single-cable multi-conductor thin-gauge wire for all the bike lighting and sensors and stuff, removing that scooter harness.
* I'll probably gain an ounce or two going to the all-LED lighting for the turn signals/marker lights, but I'll lose at least a pound by removing the other lighting system that was on the DayGlo Avenger (which I'd like to put back on it).
* The cargo pods and their attachment frame are maybe 15-20 pounds, empty. Part of that frame (the front half of the square tubing) is also the seat mount, though, so doesn't count.
* The batteries alone are I think 51 pounds. I'd have to go to something like A123 cells to get enough power in a lighter package that wouldn't be damaged by what I use it for.
* The difference between the 4 pole motor about to go on and the heat-damaged 2 pole motor about to come off is more weight added than I took off with those frame modifications.
* The front fork can lose around 5 pounds, maybe less, if I go to the non-shock fork. I'll gain at least two of that back if I add the headtube shock later.
* The steel front cranks are maybe 2 or 3 pounds heavier than aluminum ones would be (if I had any to spare for it).
* Can't get the seat any lighter.
* Handlebars are as light as they'll get for the shape I need, unless I could get some modern ones custom-made out of thinner but stronger tubing (or get lucky and find some scrapped like I did these).
* Those little white baskets that held the batteries before could take off a pound or so, but they will actually hold my backpack or something else, bungeed between them and the bottom of the seat, should I take the cargo pods off for any reason.
* There's nothing else I think I can safely remove from the bike frames themselves.
* The 26" wheel with wide steel rim is probably a couple of pounds more than a 24"; since I only really went to 26 because I had a lower-rolling resistance tire for 26 but not 24, I can go back to 24 once the tires arrive from All Electronics.
* The toolkit could probably be slimmed down a couple of pounds if I could standardize all the fasteners on the bike, so that any emergency roadside work doesn't require the large assortment of tools and driver bits that I carry right now.
