How many (V) per (1000w) Output to you drop?

[DogDipstick]

Are you happy with your battery and the power it gives to you or do you want a better one?

YES, I am happy.

The Chevy volt battery is probably the best in terms of longevity. Maybe because of the internal "cooling system" that cools the cell in the car. Statistics shows it is better than all other electric cars. I would like to buy that car when it cost 8-12 grand although not before I have any use if it. (Why is it so? Beacuse they use only the best percentage from the battery, about 80-25% I don't know the exact figure however about 10kw of the batterys' 16kwh capacity)

Early Gen1 used 14Kwh of 16Kwh, the later ones used more of a larger bank..

Performance wise as you se your battery is pretty nippy. If I had it I wouldn't worry. However if you still want more power from it then cut resistances in positive and negative wires by increasing the diameter. Also increase the diameter of the phase wires. Upgrade wires on your battery if possibly without safety issues. and more things to do. Put settings in your controller to xx 99% and 150% in 3 speed setting. So setting 2 will never use flux-weakeing if your controller has it meaning more efficiency and less wh used per mile in that setting. The end result is less power or watts lost in heat or inefficiencies or "voltage drop" (voltage drop is for example higher in a thinner, weaker cable - - -> meaning losses)

Yes, can use 60A and practically use all the power my particular motor will take from my research.The extra 40A really does not much with my Kv, and the heat created is not worth the tradeoff for power in the application. I go just as good at 40Wh/mile, 200Wh/mile peak as I do, go, with 100Wh/mile and 845Wh/mile peak. The range increase is worth it. I run the dial at 50% often. I often use 50-60Wh/mile average.

I utilize thermal rollback for temperature control. If I was to "upgrade" I would buy motor already configured with bigger phase wires, for I have maxxed out this motors potential. My phase wires are very small, on my QS hub, but the thermal rollback is in control of the temp.

There is very little room for improvement with larger wires at this point, for I would have to use 6Ga wire for entire power system, bulky and way to much overkill. The entire system is 8Ga with NO steel fasteners, only copper and brass. Very low resistance in the wire. Temperature rise is negligible. The entire (power transmission) wire contributes less than 2mOh on the datalogs. The battery wire itself is thicker in series connection (very thick, heat sinking). .. The duty cycle of my 8ga is never exceeded. 0 heat created. 0 temp rise from wire.

I can dial 1-100A on my setup, for any output in between. 0.1 A increments. Current shunt and dial to adjust output.

The Chevy volt battery is probably the best in terms of longevity.

Best I have found on terms of power delivery,too, and longevity, based on the many many cells I have tested. I like my hi charge rate/discharge rate battery made from recycled cells.

I am not so much worrying about my battery, but want to know the congruent output for other ebiker hobbyist.... and what they have shown with the experience. What is possible for the DIY builder? How many amps and watts is normal, how much is the chemistry influence the ride, you know. Ty.

 

[leffex]

"Early Gen1 used 14Kwh of 16Kwh, the later ones used more of a larger bank.."
yes you are right.

There is very little room for improvement with larger wires at this point...
sure I get it. I got 3awg or 25mm^2 for phases and battery leads.

Best I have found on terms of power delivery,too, and longevity, based on the many many cells I have tested. I like my hi charge rate/discharge rate battery made from recycled cells.

I ... want to know the congruent output for other ebiker hobbyist.... and what they have shown with the experience. What is possible for the DIY builder? How many amps and watts is normal, how much is the chemistry influence the ride, you know. Ty.

More powerful ebike systems are harder to build, maybe on a exponentially rate. I mean how many ebikes running your power level have you seen when you drive around? None but on the internet a few at least.

So for small output and power, both batteries and motors, there're gonna be alot of people and diYers able to build those systems.

However for high power and when you really need high performance and reliability you need to kind of know what you are doing at least in theory. Doesn't matter you are an electrician. It's the problem-solving mindset that is needed to be reached to be able to build a powerful ebike.

 

[john61ct]

As a percentage, I drop 6.43% of the voltage on a 8000w output with my battery.

That is a lot for a big bank, but very good for a small one.

What C-rate does that 8000W translate to?