Hubmonster 94% efficient 7kw NO LONGER FOR SALE

hillzofvalp said:
Soooooo close!

$150 is just $50 less. Who couldn't use an extra $150. Get on the stick. I just spun up my SuperV and no load at 124V is :shock: fast. Now I gotta figure out how to wire up my CA3, which is an octopus, and other than the main CA connector I don't have connectors to match it. Looking at the manual, it looks like I need to use most of them too. I still haven't figured out how I want to handle my removable battery cover.

I'm all healed up and finally anxious to ride so I need to get on the stick to be mobile for my day off tomorrow. :mrgreen:
 
hillzofvalp said:
Just waiting on swingarm and got to mount my controllers/balance wheel and I should be doing 70mph (sans license plate or permit).

It's easier to balance the tire with it horizontal in a table vise. Then you can just stick extra weight, like a larger nut on the exposed threading of the bolts and it won't fly off, and you can easily make changes until you get a perfectly smooth spin up free of any vibration.

Look for out of round tire too. I had 2 crap ones whose bead wasn't a perfectly concentric circle with the tire. It was out about 5mm point to point and was unrideable. I spent an hour making black smoke with my industrial size angle grinder and got it barely rideable even after re-balancing, so I got another brand of tire when a second one was the same.

John
 
SuperV is alive again. How's 194kph no-load with a tire on? I'm sure I don't have enough aero to get much past 70% of no load, but we'll see. The plan is to ratchet up current in small increments, so I don't quite have the quickness yet, but speed is OMG scary :shock: and I haven't even gotten it on the highway yet. Rain held me back today, but more testing and tuning tomorrow. Ventilation did introduce some startup growl, but I kinda expected that, but it's worth not having to worry about heat no matter what I throw at it. Pics and videos of SuperV 3.0 to come.

I'll go as far as I dare with my CA3 as only a data device, and hopefully over the weekend get the torque throttle going and work on tuning it too my liking.

John
 
awesome! and mabye you will be one of the early adopters of methods thrust controller that measures phase current and works with the CA(i think). Im still saving for my motor ! for real , now u have so many , i cant decide which one, what controllers do you have for your motors and also what about the solar panels?? getting sunny here :mrgreen:
 
I put air in the tire (under 10psi was part of my problem) and took it on the highway. The controllers still aren't allowing full throttle except no load. I got it up to 120kph into a pretty stiff headwind, and it still had more to go even at partial throttle....too many cars on the road and a couple of them tailing me which I don't like. Plus, I haven't done a re-tightening of the headset since I first swapped in my Monster 888's as part of my overhaul. I know I'm being a puss, but I still don't like the new riding position yet with the saddle a couple of inches higher and a couple of inches more forward, and I about 5hit myself when the play in the headset showed itself which I thought was my bars going fwd. Hitting regen at over 100kph and the bars moving forward is :shock: .

I picked up a bit of trail with the change in forks, but not much. She's still pretty sensitive. I'm looking forward to backing off on the voltage, just not yet. I owe you guys some videos. Hopefully the incredible acceleration I have at any speed comes thru in the video, because following a car on the highway at 80 or 90 or 100kph, and hitting the throttle to get around them instantly is an incredible sensation. :mrgreen: The bike now weighs 137lb (62kg) plus me with clothes and helmet topping out at a ridiculous 275lb (125kg) since the holidays and quitting smoking. Imagine the performance with a cyclist weight guy aboard. I'm building a low powered electric assist to get below 200 where I belong, and the effect on ebike performance is my carrot.

John
 
hydro-one said:
what about the solar panels?? getting sunny here :mrgreen:

What voltage do you need to charge, and what kind of current do you want? Unless your BMS will cut it off for home you'll need to build a top of charge cutoff board...simple, but I'm not selling them. For portable charging out in the back country, then just running them direct is fine because you'll be doing partial charges and actively monitor the SOC. I need to light my site, but until then I should post a for sale ad here. $3/watt looks like it's going to be the number. I've been using 95% sunpower since mid December and it's sweeeeeet.

John
 
Hi John, can you provide some more specs on the panels, (hint start a sales thread :D ) Even just to collect the info, scattered all over......Im interested in a 4s module for sure. However living beside a hydro dam (think terawatts), its not first on my list.....
 
hydro-one said:
Hi John, can you provide some more specs on the panels, (hint start a sales thread :D ) Even just to collect the info, scattered all over......Im interested in a 4s module for sure. However living beside a hydro dam (think terawatts), its not first on my list.....

I know. I'm just making sure all of our ducks are in a row before I pull the trigger.

Being already on hydro, no, it wouldn't get you more green. It's the same here with close to 100% of electricity from green sources. Instead is about independence from the man. For an off-road guy like yourself my thought would be about how much more fun I could have with a power source for charging out away from it all, but then you're talking about a backpack full of them. Are there spots with open sky to set up, or is it just endless trees? I know you and your pals go for the radical stuff, do you go get away from it all or hang close to civilization so a broken bike or someone getting hurt isn't a nightmare getting back?

Me, I want to build an indestructible off-roader with plenty of battery, load up with camping supplies and a shitload of panels and escape from civilization....actually bring the parts of civilization I want along with me. :mrgreen:
 
A couple of updates. I've been running my own HubMonster in-wheel at 30s for a while now. Thanks to Zombiess Throttle Tamer, anyone with throttle issues of dual controllers now has an economical solution. The CA3 throttle control functionality only works with some dual controller setups.

My latest ventilation approach is working incredibly well and is nice and easy. I'll do a 2nd motor over the next week or so and document what is now my recommended ventilation approach for all hubmotors. It's working so well that I'm also going to run a larger wheel without any heat worries. I hacked a 16" aluminum moto wheel for an elegant solution that gives me a 22" wheel on HubMonster, and I'll use an 18" moto wheel in front. Compared to what I've been running I save a couple of pounds in the rear wheel for well under a 10 pound gain overall. Larger diameter wheels for a more bike-like look and a moto tire, wheel, and brake up front will give me a lot more piece of mind to really let HubMonster run free instead of riding scared like I have been.
 
John, if you have a solution for a 16-17" rim I'm be really interested. There are a bunch of reasons why a 12" wheel just won't work for me
 
grindz145 said:
John, if you have a solution for a 16-17" rim I'm be really interested. There are a bunch of reasons why a 12" wheel just won't work for me

It's not a 12". It's a 13". Below is a pic next to the 16" I've got. Larger wheels will work for guys who keep the load light, but the issue is how fast it becomes. It will definitely be at over 70mph on 20s, and even with regen taking much of the load bike brakes are iffy. It's already geared too steeply for off-road, and going to a 22" wheel makes that moreso, so it's strictly a street rocket. I think mid-drive is the only way to go for off-road anyway.

I don't have a source for rims other than the 13's from the factory. I got lucky and just happened upon mine used. I haven't seen any others except cheap Chinese ebike stuff with a flat flange from the rim to the center. Even with a more bike-like wheel it could never fit on an unmodified bicycle. It's too wide and has 15.5mm flats. You wouldn't want this kind of power on an ebike with a CG so high and rearward anyway.

Hubmonster 16inch wheel vs scooter wheel.JPG
 
Thanks for the info John. I'm looking to build a top-tank moped. I'm OK with modifying, but I don't want to completely screw up the suspension geometry etc. SOunds like this thing would be a bit too brutal at 80V in a 17" wheel.
 
grindz145 said:
Thanks for the info John. I'm looking to build a top-tank moped. I'm OK with modifying, but I don't want to completely screw up the suspension geometry etc. SOunds like this thing would be a bit too brutal at 80V in a 17" wheel.

Brutality is determined by current with the larger wheel size softening it, and adjustable softening is now available economically with Zombiess Throttle Tamer. The larger wheel brings highway speeds into the equation with motor stress levels determined by load and aerodynamics. I don't know what a top-tank moped is, but something like this with a HubMonster in-wheel and made even more sleek with a matching battery box in place of the ICE. I hope it's something like this:
Custom blue Motobecane.JPG

Imagine that puppy with a Hubmonster in the wheel, and a sleek aero battery compartment in place of that noisy stinky motor.
 
Similar idea John, I'm thinking something similar to this:

puch_moped.jpg


It may make more sense to use a smaller hub just for power sake, since the frame will be overpowered as it is. I still haven't decided to what degree I want to rebuild this. For the sake of keeping unsprung mass to a minimum and keeping the snowflake wheels, I'm leaning toward going to a mid-mounted Motenergy brushless motor. Though it's roughly the same size and power, it might be better since it is out of the wheel. However, having no chain and no drivetrain to wear at all, would be a beautiful thing!

So many of our ebikes are just overpowered without adequate brakes and suspension (mine certainly is). The average moped could even be quite satisfying with even a 9C sized motor. That being said... never hurts to add performance :)
 
my bike is in the same class of what he's talking about.. maybe a magnum is a little bit lighter, shorter, and lower. a 9C would be fine in one of those if you didn't exceed 1.7kW probably. You may want to check what the width of the swingarm is.. most peds are horizontal but are closed... which is one reason I made a new swingarm.

I actually was first looking for a magnum for my project.. lol
 
hillzofvalp said:
my bike is in the same class of what he's talking about.. maybe a magnum is a little bit lighter, shorter, and lower. a 9C would be fine in one of those if you didn't exceed 1.7kW probably. You may want to check what the width of the swingarm is.. most peds are horizontal but are closed... which is one reason I made a new swingarm.

I actually was first looking for a magnum for my project.. lol

Yeah, I'm taking notes from your build, believe me! Is your concern for hub power with respect to the dropouts of the swing-arm, or just the overall competence of the frame itself? I'm sure I can get quite a bit more out of a 9C than 1.7kW:)


(sorry to derail your sale thread John)
 
I think you will be fine with <10kW with original swingarms... IF you can fit the motor in properly. THe hubmonster HE is 190mm ish.. and you need the slot to match the flats or it will just spin. My mb5 original swingarm I think was around 190 but the slots would've never worked unless I welded on hunks of steel and hacked it apart (which I was going to do). Safer to start fresh.

what kind of range/top speed do you want?
 
hillzofvalp said:
I think you will be fine with <10kW with original swingarms... IF you can fit the motor in properly. THe hubmonster HE is 190mm ish.. and you need the slot to match the flats or it will just spin. My mb5 original swingarm I think was around 190 but the slots would've never worked unless I welded on hunks of steel and hacked it apart (which I was going to do). Safer to start fresh.

what kind of range/top speed do you want?

That is the question, I've been all over the map. I think I'm going to shoot for a small lightweight moped with maybe 1.5kwh or like 20-30 miles range I'm thinking. I'm not sure I would be be disappointed with 40mph. However, It would be nice to push it closer to 60. In that case I'd really need more battery anyway. I think I'm going to keep this build simple and clean, and save some extra cash to put down on a Zero DS sometime soon.
 
If I would've done it again.. I would've run voltage to get it to 60 and not 78... but sometimes you want a performance bike.. which is exactly why you should get a zero. I want to someday to.. and have what's called a "warranty" --oouuuuu sounds good. If you put hubmoonster on a puch with like 70V nominal .. that's like 55mph. Keep the weight of the bike under 140 and you should get something like 50-60Wh/mile average. Only need about 1.6kWh at that point.

If I had a 5kWh pack the 78mph top speed would be more practically useful taking it on short stretches of interstate.. but with current 2.5kWh battery I would have to do some serious trip planning to do anything safely at that speed, especially in traffic.
 
""warranty" --oouuuuu sounds good".....Really??? I back up what I sell. What problem did you have, much less one that's gone unresolved? I recall even insisting on a return for a full refund including shipping, despite there being no problem with the motor. I just wanted this nightmare customer relationship over. In fact, other than a few instances of shipping damage for which we bore full responsibility, I'm not aware of a single issue with any of our motors. That's probably a result of other customer accepting solid guidance intended to ensure their success and satisfaction.

WRT other erroneous content in the post, I regularly get 50-60wh/mile consumption pushing a 400lb total load. Consumption per mile is dependent primarily upon speed and aerodynamics, not weight. Also, I get 65mph with 74V nominal, and that's with the smallest diameter tire I could find to fit my rim. That would put 70V nominal above 61mph with the same tire. The largest tire would increase top speed by about 10%, and a 17" moped tire would be more than that with similar aero. Speed is so little and issue, I always encourage the smallest wheel possible and lightest load possible, so customers have more freedom to drive their systems to higher performance with less heat risk.
 
Jeez.. he's talking about getting a zero down the road, like all of us on ES, so calm down. I never said anything wrong about your motor here, and everyone else know's that. Consumption depends on lots of factors, but for people to have fun (let's define fun next) and go 60mph with hubmonsterHE, there is a wide range of consumption. Magnum's are tiny, hence less drag, hence that ballpark figure. For normal usage for me, doing what I would do with a magnum, my consumption would be 50-60Wh/mile. Let me know if you have any questions about your build or need me to help CAD the swingarm, etc.

THere is nothing wrong with this motor, just a lot of potential to unleash. If you don't ventilate it and put it in a magnum, 60-70V nominal, 1.5kWh, that's a good around town machine at 6kW continous... my bike is extended, and I still feel like it wants to wheelie sometimes.. but that all depends on what you're powering it with obviously. I'll keep an eye out for magnums.. though I'm not sure you are willing to drive very far to get one. Also look at the newer TOMOS top tanks..

I'm calling my bike done. Getting plate hopefully this week. Pictured are johns anodized hall throttle with matching left grip, and also the motor which you can't see but is vented and painted black with 130/60-13 tire. I'll have to post more pics to my thread when I have a good chance.
 

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"Calm down" . Hey clueless, simply stop posting in any of my threads, because what rattles around inside your head and the real world are too commonly unrelated, and the connection to your keyboard is too direct. You've questioned my integrity on more that one occasion by insinuating that my results were fabrications. You post 2 year old videos of gasser mopeds to my Hubmonster video thread. You send me a flood of PM's forcing me to waste my valuable time with responses that you ignore anyway. You commonly post content to for sale threads that doesn't belong there. Now in my for sale thread you say that it would be "oouuuuu" so good to have something "called a "warranty"", which insinuates:
1. That you don't have one, which is wrong, expressly stated or not.
2. That you've had a problem that having a warranty would have helped, since without a problem a warranty is irrelevant.

This isn't the first time for this conversation, so no I'm not going to "calm down". Don't bother with another brown nosing note either, because the last one made me want to puke. Words have consequences, so be a man and accept the consequences of yours.

John
 
The funny thing is you are the only one who has ever complained about my posts in your thread. Ironically, I'm the only one that regularly posts good news about your motor offering and the only one that advertises your motor. You're simply too sensitive for an online forum. Hateful, mean comments aren't allowed here. You are begging me to respond to your insensitive posts all the time. If you don't like what you read then don't read it. Other people enjoy hearing about what you can do with a hubmonsterHE, even if it's from me, john. Regardless of my comments which don't impact your sales, you are going to sell less motors because of your attitude, not my comments.
 
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