Allex
100 MW
Yeah Jay, same with Adaptto...You dont have that peak sting at the start as with Infinion. Instead, it is very linear. I did not like it at the beginning, but after a while you begin to think that this is really how it should be.
Hyena's e-bike builds (now with HD video)
- Thread starter Hyena
- Start date
Hyena
10 GW
Really ? Man that's disappointing 
Obviously the smoothness is great and it's very user friendly for noobs but it feels a little too 'safe'
I like a raging bull that will promptly put you on your arse if you look at it sideways
If I didn't know better I'd think it was throttle ramping in the CA. Maybe the firmware in the controller is doing a similar thing ? It feels down on phase current off the line, which may well be a protective feature as this has been the death of many a controller with huge amounts of current multiplication off the line at a low speeds/motor inefficiency.
I've read the Kelly controllers are a bit tame off the line too.
Damn, there goes my plans of leaning forward and dashing off the line at the upcoming race. Hopefully there's still more power to be unlocked with tuning, even in the mid range it doesn't feel like I'm getting much more than half the programmed power.
Oh, and what sort of welders or clothes dryers are you using that need 15kw ?? :lol:
I have a 25A outlet in my workshop for welding which my 200A mig welder doesn't max out. Your standard battery spot welder should run fine off a normal house mains 10A circuit
Obviously the smoothness is great and it's very user friendly for noobs but it feels a little too 'safe'
I like a raging bull that will promptly put you on your arse if you look at it sideways
If I didn't know better I'd think it was throttle ramping in the CA. Maybe the firmware in the controller is doing a similar thing ? It feels down on phase current off the line, which may well be a protective feature as this has been the death of many a controller with huge amounts of current multiplication off the line at a low speeds/motor inefficiency.
I've read the Kelly controllers are a bit tame off the line too.
Damn, there goes my plans of leaning forward and dashing off the line at the upcoming race. Hopefully there's still more power to be unlocked with tuning, even in the mid range it doesn't feel like I'm getting much more than half the programmed power.
Oh, and what sort of welders or clothes dryers are you using that need 15kw ?? :lol:
I have a 25A outlet in my workshop for welding which my 200A mig welder doesn't max out. Your standard battery spot welder should run fine off a normal house mains 10A circuit
1 vote for smooth controllers. Phase current limit means the torque should be constant below an exact rpm, without this the controller or motor can burn. But ebike.ca simulator does not show this constant torque. It is also invariant in time if the controller has a fast current control loop without overshoot at throttle start.
Not noobs, increase phase current
Not noobs, increase phase current
Hyena
10 GW
Read on to see why I very likely won't be attending the hunter EV festival next weekend that I've been so looking forward to :x
So, I spent some more time working on the bike this arvo, wired up the key, charger ports, some accessory wiring and tidied up some other stuff that was a temporary. I had planned to start playing with the regen settings but more on why that didnt happen in a sec...
It seems I have a very highly calibrated bum dyno! I plugged the laptop back in this arvo and the battery current was set at 80A (exactly what I'd guessed) and the phase current only 120. I maxed them both out and it now has more sting but still not quiet as savage down low as I'd like and still doesn't feel like twice the power. It's still pretty tame off the line then very rapidly accelerates away towards top speed. It also has an adjustable throttle on and off delay which is supposed to add to the smoothness and take out jerky throttle inputs. I dont know what the delay is on a drive by wire car but I'm guessing it's around 200 milliseconds, which is how I have the bike set up as it feels quite similar. On sudden back off it had a slight twitch and a clunk which almost felt like the sort of thing you get with the axle shifting during regen. If you roll the throttle back off rather than letting it snap back it doesn't do it, but this isn't ideal. So I bumped that up to 400 milliseconds (ie 0.4 of a second) which you wouldn't think was significant but it is noticable and roughly akin to the sort of slight overrun you get on geared motors.
The power is still not enough to wheelie off the line from a rolling start so in the park next door I gave it a little yank on the bars and a some throttle over a bump to see how controllable it would be with the torque throttle settings. Given a combination of all the above things this ended very very badly.
A combination of already having a rolling start and being past that initial soft spot and the slight over run on the throttle meant that when I gave it some it launched away at a rate of knots, the front rapidly came up past the point of no return and before I could respond I was on my arse. HARD. Like, so hard I didn't just slip off but think the bike actively flipped right over and drove my arse into the ground. I dont know how fast I was going at the time of impact - maybe 40km/hr ?
My initial response - oh the pain. It was literally paralyzing and I couldn't get up. I was able to move my legs which was a relief that I hadn't done any serious spinal injury but it took me another 5 minutes or so or wriggling around from my back to side to find a way to lay that hurt less before I could begin to get up. I finally got to my feet and painfully hobbled home, got my wife who's sick with the flu to go collect the bike and she was as unimpressed as you might imagine.
That was 3 hours ago and I've just managed to get out of bed now the pain killers have relaxed things slightly. My bum is still sore and numb on the right side but it's the back pain from there right up to the bottom of my shoulder blades that's really side lined me. I can hardly move and the process of just getting out of bed took several attempts to move in just the right way that I didnt have intense spasms of pain. So, suffice to say I dont think I'll be racing come Saturday unless I miraculously get better really quick. I do have a bad back though so my injury is probably more dramatic than it would have been for someone else. I'm super, SUPER annoyed at myself.
Be careful what you wish for kids!
Oh the irony
As for the bike itself, damage looks minimal thankfully. The bars and pedal look like the took most of the impact, hopefully my new expensive zee crank arms aren't bent! The handlebars and forks are twisted but that should be just a matter of loosening off the bolts and setting them back straight. If I was able to move to play with it the main thing that looks like preventing it from working is the seat is toast - it's actually ripped right from the rails which probably gives an indication of the type of impact. Surprisingly the stitching and fabric is completely intact, it's just torn off.
Aftermath pics
Le sigh
So, I spent some more time working on the bike this arvo, wired up the key, charger ports, some accessory wiring and tidied up some other stuff that was a temporary. I had planned to start playing with the regen settings but more on why that didnt happen in a sec...
It seems I have a very highly calibrated bum dyno! I plugged the laptop back in this arvo and the battery current was set at 80A (exactly what I'd guessed) and the phase current only 120. I maxed them both out and it now has more sting but still not quiet as savage down low as I'd like and still doesn't feel like twice the power. It's still pretty tame off the line then very rapidly accelerates away towards top speed. It also has an adjustable throttle on and off delay which is supposed to add to the smoothness and take out jerky throttle inputs. I dont know what the delay is on a drive by wire car but I'm guessing it's around 200 milliseconds, which is how I have the bike set up as it feels quite similar. On sudden back off it had a slight twitch and a clunk which almost felt like the sort of thing you get with the axle shifting during regen. If you roll the throttle back off rather than letting it snap back it doesn't do it, but this isn't ideal. So I bumped that up to 400 milliseconds (ie 0.4 of a second) which you wouldn't think was significant but it is noticable and roughly akin to the sort of slight overrun you get on geared motors.
The power is still not enough to wheelie off the line from a rolling start so in the park next door I gave it a little yank on the bars and a some throttle over a bump to see how controllable it would be with the torque throttle settings. Given a combination of all the above things this ended very very badly.
A combination of already having a rolling start and being past that initial soft spot and the slight over run on the throttle meant that when I gave it some it launched away at a rate of knots, the front rapidly came up past the point of no return and before I could respond I was on my arse. HARD. Like, so hard I didn't just slip off but think the bike actively flipped right over and drove my arse into the ground. I dont know how fast I was going at the time of impact - maybe 40km/hr ?
My initial response - oh the pain. It was literally paralyzing and I couldn't get up. I was able to move my legs which was a relief that I hadn't done any serious spinal injury but it took me another 5 minutes or so or wriggling around from my back to side to find a way to lay that hurt less before I could begin to get up. I finally got to my feet and painfully hobbled home, got my wife who's sick with the flu to go collect the bike and she was as unimpressed as you might imagine.
That was 3 hours ago and I've just managed to get out of bed now the pain killers have relaxed things slightly. My bum is still sore and numb on the right side but it's the back pain from there right up to the bottom of my shoulder blades that's really side lined me. I can hardly move and the process of just getting out of bed took several attempts to move in just the right way that I didnt have intense spasms of pain. So, suffice to say I dont think I'll be racing come Saturday unless I miraculously get better really quick. I do have a bad back though so my injury is probably more dramatic than it would have been for someone else. I'm super, SUPER annoyed at myself.
Be careful what you wish for kids!
Hyena said:I like a raging bull that will promptly put you on your arse if you look at it sideways
Oh the irony
As for the bike itself, damage looks minimal thankfully. The bars and pedal look like the took most of the impact, hopefully my new expensive zee crank arms aren't bent! The handlebars and forks are twisted but that should be just a matter of loosening off the bolts and setting them back straight. If I was able to move to play with it the main thing that looks like preventing it from working is the seat is toast - it's actually ripped right from the rails which probably gives an indication of the type of impact. Surprisingly the stitching and fabric is completely intact, it's just torn off.
Aftermath pics
Le sigh
pendragon8000
100 kW
Bugga. Your boys will get away with all sorts with mum and dad on the bench.
Pain killers!
Fish oil is great for recovery and could help you back allot.
Good luck mate. Maby the ca has a throttle ramp thing you need to tweak then bring the other limits back down a tad.
Pain killers!
Fish oil is great for recovery and could help you back allot.
Good luck mate. Maby the ca has a throttle ramp thing you need to tweak then bring the other limits back down a tad.
Allex
100 MW
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=57291&p=900999#p900804
My battery was made with this one...
"DN-10 means 10kw I believe. 35AC breaker is barely usable at 240V AC, 25a hits immediately when you try."
And if you have a Commercial dryer in a house with amny apartments, they peak easy at 15000W so maybe they could use it...
And about the raging bull, After 200miles I swtiched back to the stock Crystalyte controller. And yeah, You get this BAM at the first second and then it tapers down...And you think is this all I get? And it is because The Xie Chang controllers often allow a massive current over shoot.
With adaptto, at 130a DC and 400Phase it pulls equal at all speeds and it pulls hard I tell you, If I wack the throttle at 40mph I have a feeling(butterflies in the stomach) that the front wheel will lifts up a few mm, this happens especially when going uphill and on bumpy roads - the wheel is up there. And this is on a high speed 5403. I wonder what would happen with a 5404 or 5405.
At 130DC amps the acceleration is sick and If would compare it to the stock Crystalyte accelaration (60Amps), it feels like tha bike is standing still
And I've got this from Zombiess:
I think I know roughly what that Adaptto controller feels like as I now have my Lebowski controller up and running. It's nice at 200A phase but it lacks the punch of the Xie Chang controllers just as I expected it to because it really controls the phase current correctly. I prefer riding with Lebowskis controller even though it's lower acceleration, I just need more phase amps.
Edit...shit You need to be more carefull with the new hardware! Guess you where to eager to resist hope you butt will be well soon.
My battery was made with this one...
"DN-10 means 10kw I believe. 35AC breaker is barely usable at 240V AC, 25a hits immediately when you try."
And if you have a Commercial dryer in a house with amny apartments, they peak easy at 15000W so maybe they could use it...
And about the raging bull, After 200miles I swtiched back to the stock Crystalyte controller. And yeah, You get this BAM at the first second and then it tapers down...And you think is this all I get? And it is because The Xie Chang controllers often allow a massive current over shoot.
With adaptto, at 130a DC and 400Phase it pulls equal at all speeds and it pulls hard I tell you, If I wack the throttle at 40mph I have a feeling(butterflies in the stomach) that the front wheel will lifts up a few mm, this happens especially when going uphill and on bumpy roads - the wheel is up there. And this is on a high speed 5403. I wonder what would happen with a 5404 or 5405.
At 130DC amps the acceleration is sick and If would compare it to the stock Crystalyte accelaration (60Amps), it feels like tha bike is standing still
And I've got this from Zombiess:
I think I know roughly what that Adaptto controller feels like as I now have my Lebowski controller up and running. It's nice at 200A phase but it lacks the punch of the Xie Chang controllers just as I expected it to because it really controls the phase current correctly. I prefer riding with Lebowskis controller even though it's lower acceleration, I just need more phase amps.
Edit...shit You need to be more carefull with the new hardware! Guess you where to eager to resist hope you butt will be well soon.
Grinhill
10 kW
Oh no!!!! 
Bad luck man. It was looking very sweet in the 'before' photos.
Maybe you could still come for a look-see next weekend. Or have a static bike display.
Get well soon.
Bad luck man. It was looking very sweet in the 'before' photos.
Maybe you could still come for a look-see next weekend. Or have a static bike display.
Get well soon.
Hyena
10 GW
Allex said:
Interesting, I would have thought that overkill for batteries considering the thickness of material my little welder can do with much lesser power
Yeah this is certainly very nice feeling and it pulls strong. I guess I'm just used to that surge off the line. When I first rode a zero motorcycle when I visited Luke last year I remember thinking "wow, my fighter is quicker to ~40km/hr than this is!" and then obviously it pulled much harder beyond that. This now feels very much like the zero up to around 60ks.
I have a 5403 here too, I might throw that on when my back heals up and see how it goes. I'd like to compare it with an adaptto when I get the chance. It sounds like the performance is pretty closely matched on paper. I would have used one if they were more readily available.
I'll be very interested to see what the actual current draw is like once I get the CA hooked up. I dont know if it's the sinewave shenanigans or just the smoothness than masks it but it still doesn't seem like I'm getting proportionally more power from 150 battery amps than I did on the infineon at 100A. Obviously there's the inefficiency and dimninishing returns that goes with running more current but yeah... I can't remember what 60 amps feels like : P
I think there's still more to be had from it, it has multiple throttle settings (max and min voltages and then scales in between) and you can also set mid throttle phase current which I guess controls the sensitivity of the ramp ? It's probably best I get it dialed in as best as possible with the CA out of the equation otherwise I'd be fighting with 2 sets of intervening forces trying to take charge of everything.
It will rise again, don't worry. The bike is fine, it's my dodgy old back that's holding me up at this point.Grinhill said:Oh no!!!!
Bad luck man. It was looking very sweet in the 'before' photos.
A static display, what a kick in the teethMaybe you could still come for a look-see next weekend. Or have a static bike display.
If I'm at all physically able I'll be there. I'm hoping that I improve enough by the end of the week that I can move around without the spasms stopping me in my tracks and then anti-inflammatories and pain killers will get me through the weekend. Any idea what the plan is if it rains? It's nearly a week out but it looks like it's going to rain all week
Allex
100 MW
Err, I will take my comments back about the linear start on the adaptto.
Was out now and tested the throttle curve limits.
When I go from 3,5V to say 2,5 the curve becomes much steeper.And now I get same feeling as with Infinion. A small twist and it pops a wheelie from standing still...much more agressive now. Got to wright this down in the Adaptto Thread http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=930933#p930933.
So maybe you can do similar on the Sabvoton (max and min voltages)
If you want an Adaptto, forget about their slow office and their mail server wich send every mail to junk folder... just go through me or Andreym. I could bring back several controllers when I was heading home from Moscow.
Was out now and tested the throttle curve limits.
When I go from 3,5V to say 2,5 the curve becomes much steeper.And now I get same feeling as with Infinion. A small twist and it pops a wheelie from standing still...much more agressive now. Got to wright this down in the Adaptto Thread http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=930933#p930933.
So maybe you can do similar on the Sabvoton (max and min voltages)
If you want an Adaptto, forget about their slow office and their mail server wich send every mail to junk folder... just go through me or Andreym. I could bring back several controllers when I was heading home from Moscow.
Attachments
Rix
100 TW
Ah shit Jay, glad you aren't too fuqd up. That's a major harsh on the mellow. Looks like your bike will be okay though. So this proves the argument to go back to the Infineon. If you had the hit off the bottom end to do power wheelies, you would have never tried to wheelie over the woops, thus not crashing. :lol: Being that your raptor flopped in the grass, its likely the cranks arms aren't bent. Seat post, its done like dinner. By chance, you didn't have the gopro rolling? Well, heal up my friend, get back in that saddle, because that's what HEB is all about.
Rick
Rick
Rix
100 TW
Allex said:
That's good to know Allex.
Hyena
10 GW
Interesting! That's good to know, and something I'll try when I can walk again :lol:Allex said:
I noticed when programming with the laptop (it reads a number of values in real time) that the voltage with the throttle off / at zero was 1.1v. Previously programmed minimum in the settings was 1.4v so I turned it down to 1.2v (to leave a small margin) How did you find the throttle response with the narrower range ? I would have thought by doing as you've done you'd just end up with big dead spot at the start and then less precise resolution for the remaining range of motion resulting in a less user friendly interface ? I guess the proof is that it now does wheelies where before mashing the throttle didn't, but if that's at the expense of less usability it's a tough call whether it's worth it. The other thing I can try is setting max phase current at half throttle position and see what that does for acceleration and throttle mapping. By default it was 120 phase amps and I turned it up to 200 but it can go right up to 400.
I reckon if I paid for some dyno time I could get it dialed in pretty quick. Being able to adjust everything essentially on the fly is really neat. I guess the adaptto offers the same sort of functionality by tabbing through all the menus.
Thanks! I'll keep that in mind for the future.
Rix, yeah I'll be straight back on the iron horse when my spine allows it :lol:
Seat post might be OK but the seat itself is definitely done. A shame, it lasted all of 1.5km and to date is one of my most expensive consumables in bike building
Rix
100 TW
Jay, I forgot to ask, for the brief time before the crash, how did the Raptor 140 handle compared to your Fighter? Anything notably different besides the weight? Did it feel physically larger, like you sat in it versus on it? Stuff like that.
t3sla
10 kW
Allex said:
Take care!!
That curve will change over time, the throttles usually slacken and the zero point decreases and you might find your bike trying to run away.
This is why some ebike have a dead spot when new...the joys of cheap throttles
Allex
100 MW
Well, the throttle did feel pretty much exactly like the stock Infinion.
Look at the curve, maybe you will get a feeling.
It was totally fine except that now you already had full power at 1/3 of the complete twist.
t3sla: thx, Yeah those throttles, have to be carefull!
Look at the curve, maybe you will get a feeling.
It was totally fine except that now you already had full power at 1/3 of the complete twist.
t3sla: thx, Yeah those throttles, have to be carefull!
t3sla
10 kW
Cool curve, I like mine a little exponential and torque like.Allex said:
If your interested in a better throttle ORO from Taiwan has great quality and Zannax from China has excellent resolution (50 points)
Mammalian04
100 kW
Holy crap Jay. Back injuries suck... I'm sorry to hear about that.
I am still recovering from a road motorcycle off a couple weeks ago so in the famous words of Bill Clinton, "i feel your pain." ..... well maybe not all of it. I am much better now...
Quick healing to you Jay.
I am still recovering from a road motorcycle off a couple weeks ago so in the famous words of Bill Clinton, "i feel your pain." ..... well maybe not all of it. I am much better now...
Quick healing to you Jay.
Architectonic
10 kW
Hyena said:I like a raging bull that will promptly put you on your arse if you look at it sideways
Be careful what you wish for. :lol:
Glad to hear you are mostly okay.
Mammalian04
100 kW
Jay, did you loose the chain somehow or are you running without one?
I ask because I am trying to figure out what chainring and 5 speed cassette combination I should be going with and I was interested how your setup was working out. You mentioned before that a 52t chainring "looked" like it would fit so a 42t shouldn't be a problem. I'll post up the question in the Raptor 140 thread so Marcn can weigh in too since I think he already has a 5 speed 14t-28t (Sunrace B0526) freewheel cassette picked out.
I ask because I am trying to figure out what chainring and 5 speed cassette combination I should be going with and I was interested how your setup was working out. You mentioned before that a 52t chainring "looked" like it would fit so a 42t shouldn't be a problem. I'll post up the question in the Raptor 140 thread so Marcn can weigh in too since I think he already has a 5 speed 14t-28t (Sunrace B0526) freewheel cassette picked out.
Sigmacom
10 W
Sorry to hear about your crash - hope the pain eases quickly!
If you do ever find a dyno around here that can work with our bikes let me know - I'll happily share some of the cost for a visit.
If you do ever find a dyno around here that can work with our bikes let me know - I'll happily share some of the cost for a visit.
remf
100 kW
Yes that sounds painful. Hope you're feeling better. Have a good rest, look after the most important machine and maybe go see an osteopath...a good one can work miracles.
Hyena
10 GW
Thanks for the well wishes guys. I've been largely in bed the last few days resting up in the hope virtual immobility will help it heal up in time for the weekend.
My lower back is still numb which is a slight worry but saw the docs today and they did all the usual spinal tests and reflexes and think it should recover shortly and that it's just swelling and soft tissue injury around the superficial nerves. The other issue which I gave no thought to is that I'm at increased risk of upper spinal injury now after the heavy radiotherapy I had to my chest. It turns out it's the area that got zapped that's causing my other back pain apart from the obvious area of immediate impact.
To quote my own signature of several years now "my bike is writing cheques my body can't cash!"
I guess I better leave the stunts to the younger and less broken guys
I'm up and about now and given my rate of improvement from yesterday I'm pretty confident I'll be right to attend on Saturday with plenty of anti inflammatories on board
I'll need to take it easily obviously and wont be real agile on the bike, and will need help lifting it off the rack and back on but other than that I'm hoping to be good to go.
The hardest part will be the 2 hr drive to get there, sitting currently gives me the most grief.
Nah I didnt have a good chance to test out the handing, just a few quick sprints around the back streets and up and down a few gutters and grassed areas. From that brief ride it handled quite comparably to the fighter and out of the box rides a little firmer which actually a good thing as the fighter was always a tad too soft. It was one of those things that I always planned to getting around to fitting a stiffer spring but never did. The raptor is probably a tad too stiff at the moment if anything, when you bounce on it the suspension compresses properly but in general riding it's not as super plush as the fighter way. By the same token I'm also sitting up much higher on it due to the above mention stiffer spring and also the fact that the raptor is the taller bike and I had the fighter a tad too low (made the rookie mistake when setting it up 2+ years ago of measuring the seat height with the suspension unloaded and when I sat on it and it compressed ~ 30% it was that much too low) On the up side there's less dive with these forks under hard braking.
Physically it feels quite "normal" to ride, no quirks and the seating position which I was worried might be a little high was fine for low speed maneuvering during my brief test. Even being on the shorter side I was able to easily kick off each side as i leaned the bike over while slowly turning around in tight spaces etc.
Weight wise it doesn't feels somewhere between the fighter and a bomber. My fighter was heavier than a stock one but the raptor in its current state feels lighter than a bomber.
So I'm guessing somewhere in the high 40kg range.
I played with the max throttle V as Alex (the other Alex not you t3sla ) suggested on the adaptor and I think it made a little difference but just made it a bit too snappy for down low. Probably good for the track but for general offroad riding it's nice to have a little more precision with the throttle range for low speed maneuvering and what not.
In addition to setting the max and min voltages you can also set the 50% throttle voltage and also the 50% throttle phase current so that gives an added element of tunability and lets you potentially have the first half tame and the zoom off after that (or vise versa, but that would be counter intuitive)
My lower back is still numb which is a slight worry but saw the docs today and they did all the usual spinal tests and reflexes and think it should recover shortly and that it's just swelling and soft tissue injury around the superficial nerves. The other issue which I gave no thought to is that I'm at increased risk of upper spinal injury now after the heavy radiotherapy I had to my chest. It turns out it's the area that got zapped that's causing my other back pain apart from the obvious area of immediate impact.
To quote my own signature of several years now "my bike is writing cheques my body can't cash!"
I guess I better leave the stunts to the younger and less broken guys
I'm up and about now and given my rate of improvement from yesterday I'm pretty confident I'll be right to attend on Saturday with plenty of anti inflammatories on board
I'll need to take it easily obviously and wont be real agile on the bike, and will need help lifting it off the rack and back on but other than that I'm hoping to be good to go.
The hardest part will be the 2 hr drive to get there, sitting currently gives me the most grief.
I found it a bit more "flighty"Rix said:
Nah I didnt have a good chance to test out the handing, just a few quick sprints around the back streets and up and down a few gutters and grassed areas. From that brief ride it handled quite comparably to the fighter and out of the box rides a little firmer which actually a good thing as the fighter was always a tad too soft. It was one of those things that I always planned to getting around to fitting a stiffer spring but never did. The raptor is probably a tad too stiff at the moment if anything, when you bounce on it the suspension compresses properly but in general riding it's not as super plush as the fighter way. By the same token I'm also sitting up much higher on it due to the above mention stiffer spring and also the fact that the raptor is the taller bike and I had the fighter a tad too low (made the rookie mistake when setting it up 2+ years ago of measuring the seat height with the suspension unloaded and when I sat on it and it compressed ~ 30% it was that much too low) On the up side there's less dive with these forks under hard braking.
Physically it feels quite "normal" to ride, no quirks and the seating position which I was worried might be a little high was fine for low speed maneuvering during my brief test. Even being on the shorter side I was able to easily kick off each side as i leaned the bike over while slowly turning around in tight spaces etc.
Weight wise it doesn't feels somewhere between the fighter and a bomber. My fighter was heavier than a stock one but the raptor in its current state feels lighter than a bomber.
So I'm guessing somewhere in the high 40kg range.
Exactly right. I dont know if it was the crash but now the throttle has the slightest creep at what was previously the zero point. So I've turned the minimum voltage back up to 1.3vt3sla said:
I played with the max throttle V as Alex (the other Alex not you t3sla
) suggested on the adaptor and I think it made a little difference but just made it a bit too snappy for down low. Probably good for the track but for general offroad riding it's nice to have a little more precision with the throttle range for low speed maneuvering and what not. In addition to setting the max and min voltages you can also set the 50% throttle voltage and also the 50% throttle phase current so that gives an added element of tunability and lets you potentially have the first half tame and the zoom off after that (or vise versa, but that would be counter intuitive)
I haven't gotten around to fitting one yet - I wont need it for the race given I'm in the motorcycle category do I figured I'd leave it off until after.Mammalian04 said:
As I said in follow up to that it depends on your shock length - I'm running a 222mm one if you use something longer it'll eat into your freewheel space. Either way I think a 42t would be OK.
Hyena
10 GW
Looks like it's all systems go for the hunter EV festival
I'm still struggling with my back but got in about 6 hours work on the bike tonight and the wiring is now finished. It's ridiculous how long all that fiddley stuff takes!
I got the alarm wired in too so now when I walk away from the bike I can point the remote over my shoulder and lock it with "bleep bleep" like a mad douche :lol:
Sigmacom dropped around and loaned me a 100a shunt and he had a tinker with the CA settings to get it changing modes with the 3 speed switch. Thanks mate!
I wired in the shunt and sorted out all the other wiring and took it for its first test ride with instruments and it pulls the claimed power but not for very long! I dont know if this is a testament to the crown motor or not but it only just spikes to 140a for a split second then is quickly dropping this side of 100A. Cruising along at close to top speed it draws around 5kw so I'll be fine for the race in terms of battery capacity. When I get back I'll be interested to throw on the batshit motor and see how it goes.
Still no regen which is annoying me. I spoke to sabvoton yesterday and they gave me some suggestions but nothing worked. In the software when in diagnostic mode it tells me I'm activating the regen brakes or slip charge but it just doesnt slow the bike down. I do get a jolt when I back off about half a second after I let go of the throttle that feels like regen is about to kick in but then it suddenly stops. So it looks like I'll be running with no regen which is disappointing. The boost mode seems to have little to no effect either but it may be because I have the battery and phase current already maxed out and/or I'm not finding a long enough stretch or road to wind it out.
The last things to get done tomorrow night (before leaving at 5am sat morning) are fitting up the rear brakes (and probably making a custom spacer to suit) opening up the CA and switching teh speed sensor from the wheel magnet to the hall in the motor and then tidy up the CA wiring and I'm good to go.
I'm still struggling with my back but got in about 6 hours work on the bike tonight and the wiring is now finished. It's ridiculous how long all that fiddley stuff takes!
I got the alarm wired in too so now when I walk away from the bike I can point the remote over my shoulder and lock it with "bleep bleep" like a mad douche :lol:
Sigmacom dropped around and loaned me a 100a shunt and he had a tinker with the CA settings to get it changing modes with the 3 speed switch. Thanks mate!
I wired in the shunt and sorted out all the other wiring and took it for its first test ride with instruments and it pulls the claimed power but not for very long! I dont know if this is a testament to the crown motor or not but it only just spikes to 140a for a split second then is quickly dropping this side of 100A. Cruising along at close to top speed it draws around 5kw so I'll be fine for the race in terms of battery capacity. When I get back I'll be interested to throw on the batshit motor and see how it goes.
Still no regen which is annoying me. I spoke to sabvoton yesterday and they gave me some suggestions but nothing worked. In the software when in diagnostic mode it tells me I'm activating the regen brakes or slip charge but it just doesnt slow the bike down. I do get a jolt when I back off about half a second after I let go of the throttle that feels like regen is about to kick in but then it suddenly stops. So it looks like I'll be running with no regen which is disappointing. The boost mode seems to have little to no effect either but it may be because I have the battery and phase current already maxed out and/or I'm not finding a long enough stretch or road to wind it out.
The last things to get done tomorrow night (before leaving at 5am sat morning) are fitting up the rear brakes (and probably making a custom spacer to suit) opening up the CA and switching teh speed sensor from the wheel magnet to the hall in the motor and then tidy up the CA wiring and I'm good to go.
Rix
100 TW
Glad you are up and about Jay. No wheelies during the race. 
Regen is highly overrated, unless you have no rear brake than anything is better than nothing. I am really looking forward to the vids you will have coming out of this. Thanks for keeping us in the loop on your build and progress
Regen is highly overrated, unless you have no rear brake than anything is better than nothing. I am really looking forward to the vids you will have coming out of this. Thanks for keeping us in the loop on your build and progress
Hyena
10 GW
Seems I overdid it yesterday, I'm in a world of hurt todayRix said:
The 20 minute drive to work today was a killer, I dont know how I'm going to manage the 2 hr drive to Newcastle tomorrow... haha funny you say that, after sharpening up the throttle response I went to accelerate out of a corner when testing last night and the power came on hard and the front got very light. I'll have to watch that or it may well get a bit flighty on the track! I've decided I need to make a gyros circuit wired to the throttle that limits the current once a tilt angle of 30 degrees is reached :lol:No wheelies during the race.
Yeah for general use it's not a huge loss but I could have really used it for the race. The sabvoton allows really strong regen which I could use to spare my disc brakes with the repeated high speed braking that I'll need to do. Ah well.
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