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Hyper bicycle mid-drive

Ordered it
Order date: Tue, Feb 17, 2026​
Order number:xxxxxxxxxxx​

Thanks for your order, Mark!​

shipping-box.svg

Delivery

Canceled on Feb 17​

We're sorry, we had to cancel these items. It may take up to 10 business days for the bank to remove payment authorization.
If you have questions or want more information Visit Help Center

I asked the seller why the order was cancelled. I will se what they say.
later floyd
 
More feedback. The brakes have no electrical switches. I thought that was part of Consumer Product Safety rules for ebikes. However, the AVid BBS7 caliper plus wiping the rotor with solvent allows the rear brake to work a lot better. Riding my usual route, it had enough power to climb, except I was on level 3 of 5.

I had it up to 22 mph pedalling. Don't know if the motor cut out at 20. I doubt it as I couldn't sustain that w/o power. . The front chain gear at 38T could use a boost to 40 or 42, but that may be hard on the motor., I noticed that the display seems to give a reading between 0 and 100, probably indicating power percentage, I'm using about 60-70% for normal pedalling in level 3., and given my other bikes, that's probably 150 watts,

It's not enough power for my wife. We were creeping along at 9 mph this morning although there was a 20 mph head wind. I also longed for a throttle as I crested some hills. Later this Spring, I'll try more voltage.

It's only a $250 bike, so no point in putting a lot of money into it.
.
 
The Walmart web site says it is sold out, and thus ends the bargain of the under $300 mid-drive ebike.

On mine the motor does cutout just above 20mph. A brake switch doesn't seem necessary as the bike is low powered and has no throttle, though the as sold bike needs better brake calipers.
 
First time having a Walmart bike shipped across the country, the box was basically gone blown out on both ends a huge hole in the middle. Looks like the pedals are all that didn't make it , everything else was zip tied to the bike and no major damage amazing.
 
The Walmart web site says it is sold out, and thus ends the bargain of the under $300 mid-drive ebike.

On mine the motor does cutout just above 20mph. A brake switch doesn't seem necessary as the bike is low powered and has no throttle, though the as sold bike needs better brake calipers.
You can up the cutoff speed to 28 mph in the display
 
The Walmart web site says it is sold out, and thus ends the bargain of the under $300 mid-drive ebike.

On mine the motor does cutout just above 20mph. A brake switch doesn't seem necessary as the bike is low powered and has no throttle, though the as sold bike needs better brake calipers.
You can still order it for 1400.00
 
The wheel bearings are lightly greased and, in my opinion, too tight. I expect the assumption is that the wheels will loosen up in use.
I greased and adjusted the wheel bearing on ones, but now I'm kind of thinking maybe the bike should be ridden around a bit, doing the final machining, before going through the axle bearings.
Nah, always grease and adjust wheel bearings in any new wheel.
You want it to roll good, but not be loose. I had to make a special wrench for it, you gotta grind down a 17mm (I think) jaw
to make it thinner so you can use 2 wrenches on the same side. Whatever the inner bolt diameter is.
 
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Nah, always grease and adjust wheel bearings in any new wheel.
You want it to roll good, but not be loose. I had to make a special wrench for it, you gotta grind down a 17mm (I think) jaw
to make it thinner so you can use 2 wrenches on the same side. Whatever the inner bolt diameter is.
....or buy a set of cone wrenchs.
Maybe the lightly greased hub aids in the final machining process. ;)
 
I'm gonna say that frame looks fine to me and it seems OP got a heckuva deal.
 
....or buy a set of cone wrenchs.
Maybe the lightly greased hub aids in the final machining process. ;)
Not buying it. I'm going to say make it roll easy, and then if it needs tightening, do so.
Proper grease is a must. That frame looks pretty decent if you ask me.
 
Meanwhile, my first range check says I'll burn about 10Wh/mile. On the high side for my ebiking but I had it between level 4-5 most of the time. I also load tested the battery at 310 watt hours 42V to 30V, or 8.5AH The BMS will let it go down to 27V. I hadn't seen one go that low. I am happy with 85%. Very few batteris go above 90%, tested in this fashion. It tells me I can count on at least 25 miles.

I don't see any date codes. but the numbers suggest it does indeed date back to 2021. No problem. Cells last a long time in storage, By the way, that's a new 3D printed case from Aliexpress on my Atorch tester.


P1220650.JPG
 
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Bokonon posted on ES that we have the Vinka E20 motor. Attached is a PDF for it, which shows it has provision for a throttle and light output, although these are not in the Walmart motor. The PDF only refers to 36V. It also says the motor is sensorless, and the system uses both a torque and cadence sensor..

Here's a circuit board pic from bokonon's post. The three pin connector to the left of the axle could be either throttle or lights,

circuit_board.jpg

While charging the battery outside the bike. I saw that the battery terminals go directly to the charger port on the frame. Suggest a single port BMS.
 

Attachments

  • VINKA E20 Middle-Motor User Manual 2022.07-1.pdf
    1.7 MB · Views: 5
I read somewhere that they changed over to the c 20 motor at some point. I am not in a big hurry to switch to 48 volts as vinka lists torque numbers are the same as a 36 volt battery.
 
Ohhh, it (supposedly) has outputs for lights? I'm going to have to pull my off to see if I can get access to those. Would be really great.

Oh interesting, and supposedly has a 3-pin throttle and brake inputs too. That could be an interesting mod.
 
I'm unsure what line of Vinka motor is on the Hyper bike. Either a E line or C line. This is the link to the Vinka mid drive motor web page: Vinka Mid Motors .

Not all that much info on their motors. Torque/cadence sensing, 6v lights.
 
That's a lot of pcb up in a motor n stuff. Is that really the best place for that?
 
I read somewhere that they changed over to the c 20 motor at some point. I am not in a big hurry to switch to 48 volts as vinka lists torque numbers are the same as a 36 volt battery.
Amps are torque, volts are rotations.
I did 37 mph on the latest build with a 36v 30A battery.
It's kinda scary and uncomfortable now with 58v.
It also has max of of 35c hard tires and caliper brakes.
It probably goes a bit faster now, I'm thinking it's the fright bike.
Tries to wheelie when you're taking off, skinny little tires. Gah!
I had to do it, it's like motorizing a bike like I built back in the day.
Idk what to do with this thing. Nobody's going to want it.I g
It's dangerous fast, uncomfortable, stops OK but not great.
Guess I just gotta keep it.
Pretty sure the tires are good for 85 lbs, but it's already pretty rough.
This is beyond hardtail. Bah, nobody will want, I'll keep it. I know a dude that I wanna let ride this thing. :LOL:
He'll say 58:18 isn't good enough, but let's see how he do!
 
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This is the motor, quoting Johny Rocket on EBR:
"Vinka C20 250w version here is the Japanese manufacturer details: C20-VINKA MOTOR "
It feels like it puts out about a max of 500w from my uphill runs.
You're right. Peak power is a little over 500W, Checked the battery currents with a wattmeter with charged 10S,.
L1 4.6A
L2 7.2A
L3 9.7A
L4 11.9A
L5 14.5A
The L5 current is higher than my TSDZ2/OSF and DM02 conversions, fixed at 13A,

Top speed on the display is adjustable to 45 km/hour (28 mph), I managed to get up to 23 with the factory gearing so that setting works.
 
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